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mindphaser7

CyberGolem (Scratch Build) – 2011 Case Mod Competition

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mindphaser7    0

At the previous pictures you’ve seen that the sidewall is missing.

I have planned to install two 120mm fans - one in front of the CPU cooler, the second - in front of video card. But due to small width of case, install the fans inside of the sidewall was not possible.

Consequently, I decided to install fans outside, as in industrial air conditioners:

f5beb5a5df54.jpg

But something to cover up the fans required… Let’s try a drain grate for shower rooms:

5a6232a46660.jpg

I need only the outer part, so I cut off unnecessary parts, slightly modify fans:

00fb3fab4f8c.jpg

Grilles burn in the fire of gas cooker until the "color tint" appears.

Gratings inserted into blind holes:

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Place both of fans on the sidewall (upper fan installed coaxially with the CPU cooler fan), place the microphone's 3-pin connectors in the aluminum housing:

2c176f1875f7.jpg

For the supply of outboard air directly to CPU cooler make an air duct - a flare from the remnants of the fan frame 120mm and plastic can:

dc445e518377.jpg

Sidewall on the reverse side:

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It’s done, set the side wall on the place:

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Having thought, I decided to add a dust filter.

Some kind of dust filter - plumbing vents with louvers and mesh with a diameter of 125mm:

95a4c78cafa4.jpg

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mindphaser7    0

Let’s talk a bit about acoustics.

Initially, I suppose to use 5+1 system, suggesting to place rear speakers on the computer chair.

I choose such variant - a big subwoofer, tiny satellites:

1301567116-Targa.jpg

By the way, this variant are shown in the model in 3D:

1301567549-hiddenright.JPG

But after reading the theory, I realized that a 15-20cm distance from head not to take effects.

Found an alternate of the original design, it will be even better (more compact):

1301567782-EdifierMP300.jpg

And here, for example, already on structure:

1301567819-IMG0409A.jpg

Mounts for ball shaped speakers I decide to make as a spider design construction, by analogy with the gravity gun from Half Life 2:

1301568397-gravity-gun.jpg

As a guinea for the experiments an ordinary umbrella were chosen:

1301567875-IMG0399A.jpg

The mechanism of an umbrella dismantled; cut the spokes in the joints put washers to reduce the backlash. From the eight spokes got the same two patterns:

1301567904-IMG0442A.jpg

In the central hole of plastic spokes holder place a nut M8, gripped it with 4 screws, then secured stretch:

1301567939-P1000312.JPG

Twist in a spacer screw, put on a flexible extension for screwdrivers (inner spring is removed, inserted a segment of the hard aluminum wire):

1301567968-P1000313.JPG

Unfortunately, I could not fix the "balls" just using screws and spacers securely, had to steal via rubber ring:

1301568002-P1000310.JPG

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Front speaker holders clamped via cable glands, which, in turn, fixed to the plate for padlock:

1301568055-P1000316.JPG

Subwoofer mounted behind the monitor on the upper arm. You've probably seen this solution for some LCD monitors.

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mindphaser7    0

The next step is making the organizer for cables.

I was going to put cables from the motherboard and graphics card on the perimeter of the case to the center of structure.

It’s a flexible channel, looks like «Yo-Yo» toy:

1301668518-IMGA0815.JPG

The blank is a segment of plastic sewer hose. A couple of hours with a knife in my hands - and there was only a spiral reinforcement hose left:

1301668551-IMGA0816.JPG

Plastic spiral is very movable, so have to attach each coil.

For fixing spiral hose made a couple of combs from the profile sections for plastering of walls:

1301668591-IMGA0817.JPG

Combs fixed via angle bars, cut out of plastic duct:

1301668627-IMGA0797.JPG

Now it looks much better:

1301668660-IMGA0775.JPG

1301668688-IMGA0779.JPG

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mindphaser7    0

The next stage is an illumination realization.

Implemented in two ways - the overhead light and actually structure illumination.

Top light is fluorescent ring lamp, 32W/220VAC, diameter 32cm:

1302173595-IMG0490A.jpg

Lamp fastened with cable ties to six metal holders, made from perforated mounting strip:

1302173634-IMGA0822.JPG

To avoid direct contact between metal and glass set strips from plastic cable ties:

1302173666-IMGA0820.JPG

Initiator for the lamp is classic - choke and starter:

1302173691-IMGA0818.JPG

For some reason after couple of weeks the lamp was burning dimly, and with purple tint:

1302173720-IMG0512A.jpg

Replace starter and choke - does not work correctly, so leave it – new tone more appropriate in the color of wallpaper in the room.

Here you can see the “halo†in the dark:

1302173755-IMG0536A.jpg

And now few word about the lighting of structure.

"Monster" looks too "mechanical†or something like this, so I decided to add a little “organics" - soft and smooth forms, like the tentacles or roots.

Stylistically good fit corrugated hoses. Decided to "weave" them into the skeleton frame from top to each of the manipulators. And at the same time they can be used to organize an illumination.

To do this, I bought a Duralight cord with incandescent bulbs, 8 segments for 2m and tightened them into the corrugated pipes.

Example of the concept:

1302173862-IMG0503A.jpg

All cables are connected in parallel in a box:

1302173795-IMGA0830.JPG

1302173836-IMGA0831.JPG

Calculate estimated power consumption, it has turned around 300W.

This is too much… and heated well…

To reduce power consumption and to increase bulb life and brightness adjustment I decided to plug the Dura light cords through the dimmer.

Plastic parts was removed, the knob too.

Instead of knob, install the cock handle (valve, you now…):

1302173900-IMGA0825.JPG

Dimmer sets in a plastic box for electrical wiring, wires led through the rear glands:

1302173932-IMGA0824.JPG

Attached to the frame via three flexible lamp holders:

1302173965-IMGA0826.JPG

Photo of a computer with backlight under the monitor:

1302173993-IMG0513A.jpg

And the top part lights:

1302174030-IMG0514A.jpg

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mindphaser7    0

In accordance with the general design a CD’s container should have been placed at the top right side.

As the shell a stainless steel dustbin used. Its dimensions approximately 140x295x225mm (WxHxD).

Fixed the same way as a case - on the arm with furniture rails, but it has a swivel attachment (can roll over first and then tilt down).

1302265185-IMG0413A.jpg

Then I install the streamers - springs of the couch mounting, tension block and steel chain:

1302265218-IMGA0821.JPG

Now back to the CD’s box.

The first step is dismantled bucket lid opening mechanism (with pedal), and lid attachment. As a rotating mechanism for the lid took a furniture hinge "grasshopper".

As a kind of adapter I used plastic feet for kitchen furniture:

1302265245-140LBKITCH.JPG

Keep only the support, excess cut off at a slight angle, fastened with screws:

1302265280-IMG0591A.jpg

Securing the hinge outside cover also saved me from having to cut out a large hole in the steel and weaken an already thin metal:

1302265310-IMGA0776.JPG

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As a handle found door rotary actuator of the ABB‘s circuit breaker:

1302265383-IMGA0773.JPG

Some facts about the interior of bin.

Composite CDs rack travels from the depths of boxing for 2-furniture rails, side parts made of perforated steel strip.

Dimensions of boxes would not let me orient the rack another way, so is placed just 7 pieces (only CD-boxes).

Additionally, inside the lid the box set for 10 disks placed:

1302265406-IMGA0807.JPG

For additional lid fixation at the side bar door holder installed:

1302265437-588ot05b.jpg

Now look at the result:

1302265466-IMGA0788.JPG

Now needs to attach the profiled rail and two carriages with rollers to set up a movement profile.

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mindphaser7    0

At a certain proportion of imagination it can be assumed that the lower part of the monster with manipulators can be transformed into a sphere with a diameter of about 30cm (without keyboard and bays, of course).

That means I can take a spherical blank, cut into pieces and secure them in accordance with the markings on the elements of construction.

Here is pattern:

1302517337-pattern.JPG

Place all parts on the 3D model (magenta marked):

1302517372-render1.jpg

1302517393-render2.jpg

Began searching for a suitable piece of a spherical or hemispherical shape.

Finally, bought at marketplace a colander with a diameter of about 25cm, made from stainless steel.

Make markings on a colander:

1302517428-IMGA0695.JPG

Now I need something to divide this thing.

I do not have a dremel or angle grinder, hacksaw blade teeth are too big (pull out a thin metal), so I decided to cut by… needle files!

For my comfort, screwed a colander on the perimeter with screws to a piece of OSB-plate. Then drill holes for the entering, needle file jammed into hand-held vise, put cotton pads in my ears and start to file.

Here is the "torture instrument " for my neighbors:

1302517469-IMG0589A.jpg

The process was long and painful, but, unfortunately, the outcome was not very pleased - installed shields are almost invisible (probably wrong camera angles and color, in a 3D model like more).

Left upper arm

1302517496-IMG0593A.jpg

Right upper arm

1302517519-IMG0592A.jpg

Left lower arm

1302517543-IMG0544A.jpg

Right lower arm

1302517566-IMG0543A.jpg

Underside view

1302517604-IMG0550A.jpg

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mindphaser7    0

For a completeness the UPS must also fit into the construction - put it on the floor is not acceptable.

An UPS holder placed in the depths of lower part of structure:

1302789565-IMG0411A.jpg

The main element - a metal foot with bracket from office desk.

Photo from catalogue:

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Photo on site:

1302789628-IMG0594A.jpg

UPS suspended on the framework from a perforated mounting strip:

1302789649-IMG0599A.jpg

Closer view of the UPS holder, can see a segment of metal table leg:

1302789673-IMG0600A.jpg

Later a line filter with a separate switch for each outlet joined to UPS:

1302789703-IMGA0767.JPG

1302789726-IMG0552A.jpg

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mindphaser7    0

It's time to install the rear decorative shields

Took out remains a colander, laid it on the floor:

1303033353-P1000466.JPG6

1303033379-P1000469.JPG

I’ve planned to install it on large-diameter sanitary clamp - straightening clamp at first, then secure shields, and wring back into the ring on the structure. Here's supposed kit to this work:

1303033407-P1000463.JPG

The sanitary hose clamp diameter of 250mm and furniture hinges (small ones).

Exemplary layout:

1303033431-P1000474.JPG

But at first, shields need to finalize by this hand tools:

1303033455-P1000475.JPG

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mindphaser7    0

With great difficulty, place the clamp:

1303594657-P1000765.JPG

Something had to disassemble:

1303594685-P1000762.JPG

Still need to find places for attachments:

1303594711-P1000764.JPG

I will not drill a clamp – mount it on improvised clips.

Material - perforated steel strip, and tools - as usual:

1303594739-P1000768.JPG

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