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Phantom93

Regarding ThermalFusion 400 Compound

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salanos

You need to get yourself some Artic Thermal Removing & Surface prep liquids.

They are sold as a pair & any online store such as neweeg / tigerdirect sells them.

Obviously use the Cleaner to break up & wipe off the compound, don't use too much...

Once both surfaces are cleaned, use the surface prep liquid with a lint free cloth.

The surface prep neutralizes the cleaner, this is essential as you don't want your fresh application to be tainted with cleaner (it wil just break it down & cause bad damage), it also helps get those last bits out of the 'micro pores' on both surfaces.

'STAFF': Sorry for duble posting, I felt this advice should stand out alone from my previous post.

Extra Tip:

I mentioned an old 'Solder Suction Gun' above...

These come in handy for sucking up any / all stray compond, cleaner & 'broken down compound' when mixed with cleaner if you are cleaning whilst the cpu is still in place on your motherboard.

It is better that you don't clean up on the mobo usualy, but in your case with so much grease, I'd get as much off of the cpu & around the socket before pulling it out.

You are running the risk of swamping the pins on your cpu, the socket 'holes' too..

If you take great care you can pull yourself out of the weeds, just take it slow, use the correct 'cleaner & prep', remove as much compound as humanly possible before using any cleaner too...

I have had the misfortune of cleaning up messes like that for other people, but a few times they have bought their rig to me too late & although most compound have a very low conductivity.. when it is sloped on like that & gets in the pins it is enough to cause severe damage.

Also, don't try to pull the heatsink whilst the cpu is cold, with that amount of gunk you run the risk of yanking the cpu out of the socket at the same time causing further damage.

Whenever possible have the PC run for a bit, maybe put a bit of a load on the cpu to 'warm' the compound, then as you go to remove the heatsink, twist it side to side a few times before attempting to pull.

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salanos    0

I did wipe some of it off.

(new processor and build that's why I didn't use any surface cleaner)

Anyway, something's not working with my rig.

The motherboard and processor were verified to work when we brought it to a workshop, so there's nothing wrong with the application thus far. Anyhow tomorrow we're going to bring it back to the workshop for a look-over.

Anyway, thanks for all the advice, I'll remember it for my next build. :mrgreen:

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EsaT    0
Anyway, thanks for all the advice, I'll remember it for my next build. :mrgreen:
Print this text and tape it to thermal paste container:

"Used for filling unevenness of surfaces, not as frosting on cake."

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new processor and build that's why I didn't use any surface cleaner

Myself, having a new surface is all the more reason to do a good n' proper clean & prep m8.

All manner of stuff from machine oil (if they were sloppy), dust, micro grit, metal powders etc can be on those brand new surfaces.

Old or new, clean em all, prep em all... it is far better to be safe than it is to be sorry.

That extra 5 minutes of cleaning & prepping both the surfaces can make the dif' beteween good & high performance, between perfect & imperfect heat dissapation.

Hence the use of lint free cloth & I forgot to add not touching the surfaces after they are cleaned & prepped as just the oils from our skin can 'FRY' between the two surfaces.

I am not bashing you, flaming you or picking on you m8...

I am attempting to share many years of knowledge & experience with you & I hope you can see that & understand I only wish for you to have a happy, healthy CPU under whatever cooling you have.

I'd hate to see you kill your PC because I & others decided to keep quiet & not share knowledge with you, give you advice.

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Icejon    0

Back on topic here is more info about Thermalfusion 400.

For best performance suggested useful life before reapplying is 24 months.

Non migrating when applied on a plane between a CPU and heatsink with even pressure

The material is our proprietary formula. All I can say is that it is a metal oxide within a special polymer. The minimum particle size is ~8µm (microns). Mainly this makes it very easy to apply and use. Thermalfusion 400 is non corrosive as well.

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Back on topic here is more info about Thermalfusion 400.

Non migrating when applied on a plane between a CPU and heatsink with even pressure

So would a helicopter application be unstable ? :blackeye:

(sorry couldn't resist )

I recently applied it again and I found that after 5 hours on the V10 Tec plate it spread perfectly .What was used on the V10 Tec plate before ?

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The very reason I came to these forums, to find out more about the TF400...

I just recieved a 'dollop' of it with the V10 that UPS just dropped off.

There is very little written or reviewed about this product out in the big old interweb.

I just threw together a new build & decided to give the V10 a try as I love the idea of a hybrid TEC & the only other on the market I wouldn't touch their products with a barge pole after some serious problems with a case (yes a case) of their PSUs.

So, back to the TF400.

It appears a bit 'thicker' than what I would usualy apply which causes me a little concern to start with, the sample pack that came with the V10 has little to no real info on the product itelf or the application of it.

Has anybody here used this compound with a Phenom II X4 940?

If so, results?

Any other users of TF400, is it quick to cycle this stuff?

As in, how many cycles before it settles down to give a proper constant reading, how long for it to 'cure' I suppose would be a better term to use.

As it appears 'thicker' in the little wrapper it came in, application of TF400 daunts me a little, my usual format is a nice grain & a half of rice sized compound, a slight twist of the base plate on the cpu & screw her down well & proper.

Would you suggest the same method of application or does the retail package supply further / better application of the product?

Last but not least, as the last poster before me asked, do we have any idea of it's lifespan?

I tend to clean out my customers / clients systems on a regular basis & once every 5 to 7 months whilst doing a clean out / overhaul I like to remove the heatsink/fan combo, clean off the old compound & replace with a fresh application of my usual...

One or two of my clients are not within the USA & so I do my best to visit them at least once a year for a total strip down if they cannot frieght the equipment back to me.

Call me fastidious but these people depend on the systems I build & maintain for them, I cannot afford to have a $12k to $18k system go down on them due to a thermal compound failure (as I have witnessed in a 'brand named' PC), so knowing the effective lifespan of this compound would help me no end should I start to use it in my clients new builds & any upgrades / strip downs that I perform.

I'm willing to 'risk' it in the meantime on my personal PC as it is right under my nose at all times & is easily replaced should anything occur.

I am however suprised at the lack of data available on the internet about the product.

Well I haven't used it with the Phenom II X4 940 but I have with the 955. I had mine at 3.9ghz with a V-10 also and it idled around 45ºC Then I rebuilt my rig in a new case so I changed the thermal paste to some arctic silver I picked up at radio shack and it idled around 52ºC so I reseated the cpu cooler with more thermal fusion 400 and it dropped to around 41ºC idle 56º Full load 8 threads in Prime 95. So I say it's pretty impressive stuff.

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jbjtkbw00    0

I agree with gamester8989. This is good stuff. I threw away my Arctic Silver and I have 2 tubes of the ThermalFusion. I've even been recommending it on other forums I visit. This stuff actually did give me a 2-5 degree drop in thermals. I was shocked. I thought it was just that I put it on differently or something, but when I went to re-do something with my current build, I played around and put the Arctic Silver back on to compare. Same method of applying and the temps were indeed a bit higher. Also, I believe there is no curing time with this either as my temps were in line with what I was expecting from the initial installation.

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