Sign in to follow this  
TrevynPaige

Wavemaster I/O panel and ASUS p4p800 dlx HELP!!!

Recommended Posts

TrevynPaige    0

So...I opened a "ticket" for this problem with ASUS and got the stupidest reply I've ever heard...

ME:

I have a Coolermaster Wave Master case that has a front audio panel. I am attempting to hook up the front panel audio connectors to my motherboard, however, when I do...the front panel works and the rear panel does not. When I remove the front panel wires and replace the two jumpers that came on the motherboard...the back panel works again, but of course the front does not.

Here is the crux of my problem. My case has the following front audio connectors only:

MIC2 (Plugged into the MIC2 pin on MB)

AGND (plugged into the AGND pin on MB)

L_Out Right (plugged into LINE_OUT_R on MB, with jumper removed)

L_Out Left (plugged into LINE_OUT_L on MB, with jumper removed)

What do I need to do to make the front panel work with the back panel? For instance, I would like the back panel line out to function normally, but when I plug my head phones into the front panel line out, I'd like the back panel out to mute and the headphones to play from the front panel. Then if I remove the headphones from the front panel out...the back panel should work again. This is a common confiuration and I understand that the BLINE_OUT pins should help with this, but I am unsure what to do to make it all work together. Getting a new case or front panel is out of the question. Can you please explain how I may overcome this apparant short coming?

Thank you in advance,

Trevyn Paige

ASUS:

Thank you for your support of our products!

If you are experiencing problems with your onboard audio setup:

Make sure the speakers you are using are functional, that they are plugged in, and that they are powered on. Also check the volume level on the speakers, as well as the volume levels in your operating system (if possible).

What type of output is the audio set to provide? Is it set for 6-channel surround sound audio, or a two-speaker setup? Make sure the board is set to provide the type of sound you require.

Please make sure that the front panel audio connector on the MB, if not used, has the return jumpers in place from the B_LINEOUT to the LINEOUT for BOTH the left & right channels. If the front panel audio is in use, please remove it from the header connector and place jumpers here for troubleshooting.

Try removing all PCI cards from your system. If this corrects the problem, add the cards back one-at-a-time. Reboot your system after you install each card. If the sound fails during the reboot, the last card that was added is most likely the source of the problem. Anytime you add, move, or remove a PCI card, please enter BIOS Setup and set the option "Reset Configuration Data" to "Yes" if your BIOS has this option. This will force the BIOS to reassign resources to your PnP devices.

You may need to refer to the "Interrupt Request Table" in your User's Manual and arrange your PCI add-in cards so they do not cause interrupt conflicts. Some devices (most notably video and sound cards) experience difficulty sharing interrupts with each other.

Look in Sounds and Multimedia (in the Windows Control Panel), under the Audio tab. Make sure your onboard sound is set as the preferred Sound Playback device. Check the audio controller in Device Manager to see if it has a conflict (!) or if a driver needs to be installed (?).

If you are having trouble installing a driver, there may be a problem with the system setup. Make sure you have a FRESH install of your operating system (OS) on THIS motherboard, and that the drive was partitioned and formatted on this motherboard. When you install the OS, be sure to install the most recent drivers in the following order:

1) Chipset/Motherboard drivers (VIA 4-in-1s for VIA chipsets, Intel INF Update and Application Accelerator for Intel chipsets, etc.)

2) Latest version of DirectX

3) Latest Video Card drivers

4) SCSI/ATA drivers

5) LAN/NIC drivers

6) Modem drivers

7) Any additional drivers, except for sound

8) Install sound drivers LAST

If the problem persists, check that your MB is not picking up EMI (Electromagnetic Interference), or improperly grounding against the case. Please remove the MB from the case and set it up DIRECTLY on the cardboard box it came in or some other non-static, non-conductive surface, like a telephone book. Install your components, then boot the system. If your sound works, then the problem has been caused by grounding. You will need to electrically isolate the MB from the case in order to correct it. To do this, you will need to use electrical tape to cover the brass stand-offs that support the MB, and insert paper washers between the MB and the heads of the mounting screws. The red paper washers should be included with your case hardware, or they can be purchased at Radio Shack or a computer store.

Make sure that no standoffs are placed in a spot where the motherboard isn't designed to be grounded, as some cases will have different standoff locations to accommodate different styles of motherboards. Also check that there are no other metal objects that could contact the motherboard or any other electrical device attached to the system, such as a metal burr, loose screw, metal rod, or any other object that could cause a short.

Please do not respond to this email. If you need further assistance please have your case number ready, then contact Technical Support at 502-995-0883 (M-F 8:30 AM - 12:00 AM EST).

ME:

[9/22/2004 11:32:00 AM - trevynpaige]

While I appreciate your efforts, you didn't actually answer my question at all. Please address my question specifically. I have already goine through all the steps and right now ALL I have installed in the pc is the motherboard, psu, and ATI AIW 9600 pro.

I just want to know what I have to do to make the front audio inputs AND the rear audio inputs BOTH work. Right now...if I install the front audio inputs into the pins on the motherboard it disables the rear audio inputs. I have also tested, with a wire that I can get BOTH audio inputs working at the SAME TIME, but I want the rear audio out to STOP functioning only while I have my headphones plugged into the front audio out.

I don't mean to be terse, but this is pretty elementary and it is beginning to appear to be a pretty silly design flaw on ASUS's part. There should be a way to make this work. If it won't, then please just say so.

Regards,

Trevyn

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's really weird how the front panel cancel out when you have Ret line R and Ret Line L plugged in. Those two pins enables your audio to be return back to the back ports.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bth    0

Well, it is completely possible but you probably won't like this. There may be a jumper or some other setting on the MB, but otherwise the way I see it is:

You can resolder and rewire the jacks on the WM top audio port. They are capable of Line Detection, but it's all shorted together by default. Assuming this solution is just too over the top, you could take that jumper you made and wire it to a switch plate. Then, you can control the back audio by flipping the switch.

That's kinda what I did -- I didn't want the back audio killed just because headphones are plugged in (atlhough sometimes I WOULD want that). I've got a switch bus fitting in one of my drive bays that control lights/etc, one just kills the back audio.

That's probably easier that rewiring the WM top audio jacks -- I just did it for the MICs and it was a pain.

Brian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TrevynPaige    0

Excellent, thanks Brian. I am not the faint of heart type, so I will do a little research and then try one of two techniques that you mentioned. I am leaning towards the switch option. Would it be possible for you to take a couple of pictures of your setup (the switch setup) and post them here? If it isn't possible or too much of a pain...I completely understand.

Either way, I appreciate your suggestions and the help of everyone else here...pretty nice group of people for an internet bulliten board. Normally you post a question and then get grammer and netiquette essays to page through before you MIGHT get an answer. Cheers to you all!

Kind regards,

Trevyn

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bth    0

Sure, I can take some picts. Not sure if it'll be tonite but should be within a day or so. My setup is a tad different (WM and an Audigy card) but similar in idea.

-Brian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bth    0

OK, here are some picts. I don't have anything TOO detailed on the switch because it's connected to the audigy card. According to the specs I've read, if you jumper pins 3 and 1 on the audigy card, it will mute the back speakers. So I took these two lines and ran them to one of the switches.

Below is the audigy card. I run headphones and ground to the J1 header on the card. B/C I could not get the MIC to work through these pins, I piggybacked the solder points on the rear of the card, which is why there's 2 sets of cables. There's also the gray cable which is run to the DVD drive.

audigy.jpg

I've got 2 switches on the front of the case -- one for the headphones, one for some case lighting. I just put these switches in a blank drive bezel. For the headphones, the two leads go to pins 1 and 3 on the audigy card (as I said). I could run these to the cable detect on the headphone port, so that if the cable is plugged in, it mutes the back panel. But, I liked the idea of having this in a switch because I may not want to mute the back speakers -- or, I may want to enable the back speakers to let someone hear something without having to pull the cable.

wm_front.jpg

This is the tricky part. The Wavemaster audio card is below. Pin 1 is the ground, which runs out the green wire (both headphones and mic share a ground cable). Pins 2-5 are all shorted to the yellow wire. The only way to break this is to break the connections, which I did using a drill. Note, for the green headphone jack, the connections are similar.

wm_card2.jpg

You need to hold the card up to a light to see the connections. If you don't plan on using the cable detection, you can simply drill a small hole as you may see in the pict below (just beneath the yellow MIC line -- a small hole that severs the connection from the 2/3 and 4/5 pins. This will make pins 2&3 jumpered, which is ok, and pins 4 and 5 jumpered, which is ok. The point is, the PWR and MIC lines will be separate -- as they should be by default, but oh well. If you want to use the cable detection, it's a bit tricky to break these connections because the space between the pins is so small. For a connector, I took a small 3 pin adapter and using some hot glue, attached it to the board.

wm_card.jpg

Anyway, that's it! Good luck, let me know if you have questions. In your case, you can probably split the yellow cable and put it to MIC and MIC PWR on your mobo, but as I said, this isn't recommended for most MICs.

Brian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this