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hankster77

Stacker 830 issues...Help!!!

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hankster77    0

I just purchased a Stacker 830 for a new build with the following parts:

Intel Core 2 Duo E6700 Conroe 2.66GHz 4M sharing L2 Cache LGA 775 Processor

ASUS P5B Deluxe Socket T (LGA 775) Intel P965 Express ATX Intel Motherboard

CORSAIR XMS2 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) 4GB Total

HIS Hightech H195XTX512DVN-R Radeon X1950XTX 512MB 256-bit GDDR4 VIVO PCI Express x16 CrossFire

OCZ GameXStream OCZ700GXSSLI ATX12V 700W Power Supply 100 - 240 V

Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Professional Series

2 Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 ST3320620AS (Perpendicular Recording Technology) 320GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s

SAMSUNG Black 18X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 18X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2M Cache IDE DVD Burner With 12X DVD-RAM Write, LightScribe Technology

LITE-ON Beige 16X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 16X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 5X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 24X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2M Cache ATAPI/E-IDE DVD Burner W/ LightScribe

ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro CPU Cooler

COOLER MASTER Stacker 830 RC-830-SSN2-GP Silver

My problem is that something seems to be shorting out the power supply. I can reset it and it will work outside of the case. As soon as I install it and try to fire it up nothing happens about the only thing that does come on is a blue Led light on the Asus board. I've posted the problem on the OCZ forum but so far I've had no replies. The OCZ GameXstream 700 seems to work as it will bring the system to life as long as it's away from the case. At first I thought it was just a bad PSU so I RMA'd the thing and ordered another identical PSU from a different vendor since I want to wait to get the replacement PSU in order to get the thing up and running before Thanksgiving but that doesn't seem very likely at the moment.

Are there any known issues with OCZ PSU's and the Stacker 830?

If so what's the best way to fix the problem or would I be better off trying a different PSU?

I was able to get a 350 W Thermaltake PSU to work in it though this one is underpowered to run everything I have in it. Any suggestions, ideas or recomendations for a different PSU would be appreciated.

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knud    129

Maybe this sounds stupid, but did you connect the power switch wires correctly?

Maybe put them on backwards...

And a other psu, the CM iGreen 600 watt :wink:

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jewellzy    0

pull out the mother board tray with the mobo on it loock betwen the moboand tray to see if any thing is touching.another psu thermaltake 600w

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EsaT    0

So computer boots up if PSU is kept outside case but with PSU inside case PC won't boot?

Now unless there's mercury switch inside PSU preventing it from fully starting in position it is inside case there's something between motherboard and backplate so that installing PSU bends structure enough to short it...

Have you tried with PSU outside case so that fun is down like inside case?

(for example use books under edges for rising it above table/floor)

And a other psu, the CM iGreen 600 watt :wink:
Questionably low 12V rail outputs considering how much most power hungry components can consume...
another psu thermaltake 600w
And they don't even tell what are combined outputs... :roll:

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rijko    0

you bought a load of cool stuff, but i hope that's not connected in this stage ?

Testing at this stage should be performed with just the PSU, mobo/cpu/memory and video card imho.

If this combo works outside the case, it should work in the case also.

If it does not, you're shorting something during installation...

I have seen screws too long screwed into the PSU causing shorts, or installations that had metal rings between mobo and tray "because it is better, just like with my motorbike" that shorted the mobo, etc.

I would test outside the case first.

ok ? mount the PSU in the case and try again.

ok ? mount mobo and try again.

This way at least you can determine where in the installation process the problem is introduced....

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hankster77    0

rijko,

I'm down to just the motherboard, CPU, RAM, video card and of course the power supply. Now to see where the trouble lies. Thanks for the input so far; with any luck it'll be something simple and i can pass along a big :thumbright:

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hankster77    0
you bought a load of cool stuff, but i hope that's not connected in this stage ?

Testing at this stage should be performed with just the PSU, mobo/cpu/memory and video card imho.

If this combo works outside the case, it should work in the case also.

If it does not, you're shorting something during installation...

I have seen screws too long screwed into the PSU causing shorts, or installations that had metal rings between mobo and tray "because it is better, just like with my motorbike" that shorted the mobo, etc.

I would test outside the case first.

ok ? mount the PSU in the case and try again.

ok ? mount mobo and try again.

This way at least you can determine where in the installation process the problem is introduced....

Ok I've gone through each one of these steps. Everyting will run when not installed in the case and the board and PSU are just sitting on a wooden table. I then put the PSU into the case and hooked it up to the board with no mobo tray attached and it started up fine.

Then the real test I put the board on the tray very carefully making sure that I tightened each screw down as close to the same as I could without using a torque wrench or screwdriver. I even took all the mounting sleeves off the tray and reinstalled them before attaching the board. This time I got no reaction from the board other then the blue led's coming on. I checked to make sure every screw was the same length and I even looked at the face plate for the rear of the case and nothing seems to be touching that could cause a short. Just the fact that it will start up before it's installed on the case tray tells me it's shorting out on the tray somewhere. Or at least I think that's what it's telling me.

The one thing I have noticed lately compared to the older cases that came with those small washers that the new cases don't always have them. Is it possible that that I may need them to get this particular board to run properly? If I do where can I find them since I don't have any laying around....

BTW why doesn't this case have a speaker in it? OK dumb question I know but there's a wire for it on the mobo...

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rijko    0

ok so you've narrowed the problem down to the mobo install on the tray, cool..

I think, since you carefully mounted the mobo, the only place a short could happen is where the metal mountings (risers) on the tray touch the mobo.

There's probably 9 of them ?

I would recommend taking them all off the tray.

Next, install 4 of them : on all edges of the mobo.

Make sure they align correctly with the holes in the mobo by putting the mobo on the tray and check that you see the thread inside the riser aligning with the corresponding mobo hole.

Loosely screw the bolts in the 4 holes (don't worry about tightening them exactly even, that is not crucial - just lightly tighten the screws) and see if the system will boot.

If so, add 1 or 2 risers at a time and boot.

This will take some time, but it's the only way i know of to achieve a reliable and reproducable result...

Maybe you can take a shortcut : if one of the risers was (factory) installed in the wrong hole in the tray, it touches the mobo on a spot it shouldn't.

The mobo has more holes than needed to mount it ; make sure you use the right holes in the mobo.

On the backside of the mobo you can recognize the right holes easily : those holes are surrounded by a small metal washer-like reinforcement.

That is specifically meant for mounting stuff.

I have seen risers in the wrong place touching the mobo on unprotected parts (and no hole in the mobo where it touches it) and shorting the whole thing...

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rijko    0

btw, the speaker.... imho that's just the manufacturer being cheap.... i save a few speakers from old systems just for this kinda thing...

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