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Timpelay    8
Posted (edited)

 

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In love with the design and premium material used, but there should be a smaller version of this case.

 

Okey, I'll make it. My mission is to create a SL600Mi featuring mITX and full size VGA support.

Nuff said, game on. #CMWS19 here go!

 

Ambition: To create the mITX version of SL600M that Cooler Master haven't produced, yet. Hopefully, this project will encourage them to do so.

This project will be built just the way I want it. Design, layout and performance will meet.

 

Competition Goals: To conquer every criteria specified in this years CMWS 

 

Specs:

  • CM SL600M
  • ASUS ROG Z390i STRIX
  • ASUS ROG RTX2070 STRIX
  • ASUS ROG THOR 850W PLATINUM
  • Intel Core i7 8086k Limited Edition
  • Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 2x16GB
  • Samsung 970 Evo Plus 500Gb

 

Water cooling:

  • EK-Momentum ROG Strix Z390i D-RGB - Plexi Monoblock
  • EK-Vector Strix RTX 2070 RGB Nickel - Plexi
  • 2x EK-CoolStream SE 240
  • 4x EK-Vardar EVO 120ER Black BB
  • Custom made CM-logo D5 Pump top
  • Custom made CM-logo Reservoir
  • EK-Torque series fittings

 

 

 

 

Great thanks to my sponsors Asus, EK Waterblocks and Inet

 

Makers thoughts: With this project I want to show the community that base line ideas does not have to come frome machined parts and over the top water cooling. Case modding working with your own hands doing interesting, perhaps performance enhancing or just mods that suits your own purpose are things easily forgotten these days. SL600Mi is a tribute and hybrid between the old school modding techniques and the latest including laser cutting, cnc machining and 3D-printing.

 

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Edited by Timpelay

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Timpelay    8

01: COMING FROM SOMETHING ELSE

 

This SL600M has been used by me doing some OC and VRM temps testing together with AORUS, Noctua and EK Waterblocks.

It is now time for this two-stage project to donate the case to something completely different.

 

I will begin with a tear down of the previous system to get the case all set for proper planning! 

 

With the case totally apart I can start measuring how much to remove and still be able to fit everything I want.

 

 

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Timpelay    8

02: CUT IT

 

The mission is to go down hard in size, but still able to fit 2x 240 mm rads, full size VGA and ATX size PSU.

This together with proper air flow and good looking LxH ratio of the external case. 

 

As this is a casemod and rules says 80% of original case to be intact/used in the finished build, I'm doing the shrink using only parts from the case itself.

The most time efficient way would be to make a new frame and the just attach the front and top panel to it. But I'm not going down the easy path this time!

My idea is to keep the edges of the frame and remove a section somwhere in between where most suitable.

This gives me the original frame in a smaller format with same attachments at the edges.

I'm also planning my removal of sections to be able to use original mounting mechanisms for the panels!

 

The frame itself is made of steel which suits me, angle grinder and later on welding all pieces back together!

 

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Timpelay    8

03: ROG HARDWARE MADNESS

 

ASUS ROG Sweden decided to help me out with this project providing some epic hardware for it! Damn I love building with mITX motherboards.

  • ASUS ROG Z390i STRIX
  • ASUS ROG RTX2070 STRIX
  • ASUS ROG THOR 850W PLATINUM

Hardware left to source out:

  • CPU
  • RAM
  • SSD

All liquid cooling will be EK Waterblocks together with some unique custom parts especially made for this #CMWS19

 

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Timpelay    8
Posted (edited)

04: CUT IT AND WELD IT, LIKE OLD TIMES

 

 

More cutting, grinding and welding. Using the actual case parts and making my own smaller ones is a bit tricky but so much fun.

Dirty and rough compared to all usual water cooling and hardware mounting that's mostly going on nowadays. 

 

I'm test assembling all parts while making them to keep myself on track.

This will hopefully help me avoid parts that don't fit when it's time for final assembly. 

 

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Edited by Timpelay

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Timpelay    8
Posted (edited)

05: TOP COVER

 

Front and top covers will require a bunch of work to be fully functional and looking good.

Both of them needs to be shortened in steps with the plastic frame, net and aluminium exterior.

 

Lets start off with the top panel. Taking it all apart and most work will go into the plastic frame.

I decided to cut it where there's no mounting clips so I can attach the cut of back part to the shortened front part.

This gives me good attachment to the case metal frame and original looks both front and back!

 

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With the plastic frame glued back together at the right size, the net had to be modified to fit. Pretty easy work but still time consuming!

The two top cover pieces just needs to be cut as they have the same shape from front to back.

 

The removable part of the top uses pins that slide into rubber bushings keeping it at place.

I removed these pins and glued them back according to my new bushing placement and voila, smaller top with same design and funtion!

 

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Edited by Timpelay

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Timpelay    8

06: FRONT COVER

 

The front cover is a bit more tricky regarding its shape. This means I'll have to cut it and remove a section from the middle to keep the design.

As I can't weld aluminium I had to go with a different method using chemical metal for the joint. 

 

With edges sanded down to a sharp angle I could get as much chemical metal as possible in the joint.

This possible to be sanded down to a smooth surface. It will probably be strong enough on its own but attached to the plastic frame it will be solid.

 

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I put chemical metal on both sides to fill the gap. When dried out, this is easy to sand down to a smooth surface before painting.

I haven't yet decided which color use for the aluminium covers but do like the CM black version of SL600M.

Will probably have to try and see what it looks like :)

 

But lets jump back to the frame and finish that one shall we!

 

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Timpelay    8

07: PAINTING THE FRAME

 

A proper paint job starts with primer!

 

With the frame welded back together alot smaller than before it was now ready for paint.

I started with metallic primer as some parts were bare metal. Then continued with satin black top coat just as the original paint job.

 

Frame will now look stock, but smaller!

 

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Timpelay    8

08: MOTHERBOARD MOUNTS

 

My motherboard will be mounted horizontal above the ATX size PSU. Instead of going for a tray design I decided to use long spacers.

Much more stylish and an overall more open and clean look. 

 

Making the spacers required a bit of tooling starting off with chromed mounts from a wall shelf system.

 

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All I needed from them was 4 equal lenght rods thick enough for M4 screws.

 

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I used my table-version station drill to get the holes straight and as centered as possible.

Both ends was then tapped with M4 to stand stable at the case floor and hold the motherboard floating above the PSU.

 

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Timpelay    8

09: READY, GET SET..

 

I'm now leaving the dirty work behind with this case. Frame is painted black again, acrylic interior and exterior parts are cut and ready for some back-painting.

This is where the assembly will start!

 

Things left to do:

  • Install water cooling parts (Monoblock, VGA block, rads, pump, res etc)
  • Custom acrylic radiator covers
  • Source CPU
  • All custom cables
  • Finish top and front panels

I decided to buy myself some proper RAM, Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 2x16GB which will be perfect to my theme.

To save some money I stole a Samsung 970 Evo Plus 512Gb from another mod I'm not using at the moment.

 

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Edited by Timpelay

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