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C700M Front LED Problem

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On 2/22/2020 at 3:49 AM, neno said:

 

The fastest way is to open a ticket with CM support because as stated before the chance of someone answering the phone is very slim.

 

To see what are you up against when changing the panels try this: remove right side panel (metal one), you will then see a small panel on the right held by two screws (one up and one down) when you remove it you will see a big "mess" of wires.
All of this wires need to be unplugged from the motherboard and controller then removed through a hole in the case and then you need to do all of this but in reverse with the new top panel.
I find this the most time consuming and frustrating part so if you have no problems with that let me know.

So is your 700M functioning normal or did the dreaded LED mismatch colors return or flashes? Sadly I am afraid to take humpty dumpty apart and may send it to AVADIRECT since I am under warranty I paid for still. Maybe they can also fix the stupid Trident Z RGB ram as G-Skill softwares super sucks! I would like a swap out with Corsairs because that software works great with my keyboard & mouse. Although with the COVID-19 crap getting parts may be a prob as this crap goes viral pardon the pun... I guess I will call AVA tomorrow and get some suggestions the tech guys are nice despite some of the boo boos initially causing 2 x return shipment for them to fix stuff they missed...Sighs.

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neno    4
On 3/2/2020 at 6:21 AM, Cosmos Galactica said:

So is your 700M functioning normal or did the dreaded LED mismatch colors return or flashes? Sadly I am afraid to take humpty dumpty apart and may send it to AVADIRECT since I am under warranty I paid for still. Maybe they can also fix the stupid Trident Z RGB ram as G-Skill softwares super sucks! I would like a swap out with Corsairs because that software works great with my keyboard & mouse. Although with the COVID-19 crap getting parts may be a prob as this crap goes viral pardon the pun... I guess I will call AVA tomorrow and get some suggestions the tech guys are nice despite some of the boo boos initially causing 2 x return shipment for them to fix stuff they missed...Sighs.

Unfortunately the mismatch is back but only when I start the PC after that everything is OK. Hope AVA will help you if not I'm here :grin:.

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On 3/4/2020 at 10:26 AM, neno said:

Unfortunately the mismatch is back but only when I start the PC after that everything is OK. Hope AVA will help you if not I'm here :grin:.

photobucket GIF

 

If your PCB is acting up maybe you should put another ticket in with CM and get a backup part to keep on hand. Supplies through the global slave cheap labor supplier China may be iffy even more later once CM tries to replenish stocks. Who knows, it may take years for COVID-19 to lessen its virulence. This is the most catastrophic plague anyone has ever seen now alive. Add to that the collapse of healthcare and world economies, and it is just getting started...SMH

 

I sent my PC back to AVA and they did the parts swap and now we await an upgrade in ram. May as well while they got it and apart. I don't trust my old hands to do certain things anymore. lol 

 

Stay safe and healthy!

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neno    4
7 hours ago, Cosmos Galactica said:

photobucket GIF

 

If your PCB is acting up maybe you should put another ticket in with CM and get a backup part to keep on hand. Supplies through the global slave cheap labor supplier China may be iffy even more later once CM tries to replenish stocks. Who knows, it may take years for COVID-19 to lessen its virulence. This is the most catastrophic plague anyone has ever seen now alive. Add to that the collapse of healthcare and world economies, and it is just getting started...SMH

 

I sent my PC back to AVA and they did the parts swap and now we await an upgrade in ram. May as well while they got it and apart. I don't trust my old hands to do certain things anymore. lol 

 

Stay safe and healthy!

 

I did that and they've replied that this is the first time someone reported this issue  :violent1::toothy10:. So I'm waiting for the tech reply as they've passed the ticket to the tech team. Regarding the virus we are completely surrounded, in my town there are already 4 confirmed cases :shock:.

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Graill    0
Posted (edited)

This is old but should help. Coolermaster quality control is very bad. What you need to do is remove the front led panel (no screws to remove), let it tip forward. Look at the top contacts and the bottom contacts on both sides, if all appears to be in place and not missing or pushed back, let the front panel tilt forward all the way and lift up slightly, it will separate.  Take apart the front case panel (requires screw removal) and check the wiring top and bottom behind it to ensure the small connectors are indeed connected, do not pull the main case panel to far away after you unscrew it as there are a few connections. Make sure there are no pinched or cut wires, at which point you will be in an rma situation.  In my case the top power switch would not illuminate and it was the bottom set of wires, small snap connector that was not connected at all behind the main case panel that was screwed on. I was lucky and simply snapped them together and everything worked. Be careful when shoving all those wires back into that tight fit and then screwing that main case front back on before putting the front panel back on to it. Again, the front led panel does not require screw removal, the front case panel does

 

Bonus advice: If you are not mechanically inclined and have no rudimentary electrical skills, take a month or two and learn, life will be easier, it does not take a degree, just do not be lazy and expect everything to go your way all the time, be gentle when placing the screws back in and do not over tighten them, the screws go into plastic and sheet metal and just require a gentle snug of a few INCH pounds of torque which is a very tiny amount compared to the average person taking a screwdriver and using all their pent up anger to trun a screw into a flimsy setting as they hope for that satisfying resistance and the driver not wanting to rotate anymore. This will not happen and that screw and the driver you use will rotate happily forever as you strip the threads. Do not tighten everything down until all screws are attached. Just some fyi.

Edited by Graill

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neno    4
15 hours ago, Graill said:

This is old but should help. ...

 

Thanks for trying to help :thumbup: but what you are suggesting doesn't have anything with my issue, I've already checked every connection. LEDs on my case are working "OK", the issue is that when turning the PC/case ON, LED strips goes crazy (sometimes it's rainbow or some other color) for a few seconds instead to solid red as it is set, which means it's got something to do with the aRGB controller. You could argue that this is just a minor issue but for a case that costs this much there shouldn't be any issues not even a minor.

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Posted (edited)

Uso il traduttore di Google così dispiaciuto per il mio inglese, purtroppo ho anche questo problema, dopo 8 mesi di utilizzo normale ho trovato il problema sul pannello superiore, ho aperto un ticket con le foto allegate e il master cooler ha immediatamente fatto uno sforzo per inviare me 3 pannelli nuovo più pcb con la versione più aggiornata e con 2 connettori SATA. Ho perso quasi 2 ore per il cambio totale e non appena ho acceso tutto, ha funzionato bene per meno di un minuto, quindi il problema è tornato sul pannello superiore, metà delle strisce sono spente. Una delusione totale per un caso bellissimo e molto costoso. Sto pensando di venderlo così com'è e passare a In Win un'azienda seria e scrupolosa in tutto :neutro:

Edited by MARTINO DRAGONE

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On 15/3/2019 at 22:48, Deniz Roth said:

 

Ho lo stesso problema. ne hai uno nuovo o cosa hai risolto?

Hi please can you explain better about this 2 pin cable? CM also sent me all the new panels and the new controller, but I did a useless job, the problem of the LEDs is always at the top panel. That 2 pin male cable is on the front panel, but I still don't understand where it should be connected, I don't see any 2 pin female cable

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Graill    0
On 3/18/2020 at 9:31 AM, neno said:

 

Thanks for trying to help :thumbup: but what you are suggesting doesn't have anything with my issue, I've already checked every connection. LEDs on my case are working "OK", the issue is that when turning the PC/case ON, LED strips goes crazy (sometimes it's rainbow or some other color) for a few seconds instead to solid red as it is set, which means it's got something to do with the aRGB controller. You could argue that this is just a minor issue but for a case that costs this much there shouldn't be any issues not even a minor.

Was just spitballing. I realize a good portion know what they are doing, some do not. As for the Q/C of this company, sheesh. I had to make a separate ground for the PCB and even had a friend of mine with slightly better soldering skills and chip compatibility understanding replace a few parts and one chip on the controller so it would not get angry at other software and fight with the Mobo controller as the case slave board does not always agree with the other manufacturers programming, again, something that should have never passed Q/C without heat sinks on this case controller as some Mobo will not agree with it.

 

The controller is also very cheaply made and will not take a lot of extra draw and results in more heat and eventually a burned out board or one that goes crazy on you. There are far better fan/argb controllers out there, I suggest replacing this garbage with one, I did. Coolermaster should have given a decent controller with the cost of this case.

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neno    4
6 hours ago, Graill said:

Was just spitballing. I realize a good portion know what they are doing, some do not. As for the Q/C of this company, sheesh. I had to make a separate ground for the PCB and even had a friend of mine with slightly better soldering skills and chip compatibility understanding replace a few parts and one chip on the controller so it would not get angry at other software and fight with the Mobo controller as the case slave board does not always agree with the other manufacturers programming, again, something that should have never passed Q/C without heat sinks on this case controller as some Mobo will not agree with it.

 

The controller is also very cheaply made and will not take a lot of extra draw and results in more heat and eventually a burned out board or one that goes crazy on you. There are far better fan/argb controllers out there, I suggest replacing this garbage with one, I did. Coolermaster should have given a decent controller with the cost of this case.

 

Well cheaply made is a understatement, I'm using it just for the aRGB, for the fan control I'm using AC Aquaero6. Which controller do you use for aRGB? I'm probably going to buy AC Farbwerk360, but I'm open for other suggestions.

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