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Cooler Master Water Cooling Support Guide

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Daniel Rudd    0

Ryan i'm having a similar problem :/

 

Recently been building a new pc (build spec at end of post), everything is good just needed to get and install some cooling so I:

  • Purchased a Nepton 240M & installation went smooth
  • Booted & tested temperatures: showed 43C at IDLE (Not great... the box says 43C at 100% CPU Load NOT IDLE!!!!!)
  • Constant ticking sound coming from the pump which sits at 2000-2100 rpm (Fans running fine)
  • Attempted to reduce temperature by increasing rpm on fans/pump - NO DECREASE IN TEMP -  No increase in RPM for pump & fans on max rpm 2300
  • Removed/cleaned/remounted pump to CPU with new thermal paste and cleaned with 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol
  • Booted & tested temperatures: showed 43C at IDLE (Still the same)

I have been advised by numerous people that this is a faulty pump, so I am going to get the serial number and attempt a warranty replacement as this is really not great :(

 

What temperatures should the CPU & MoBo be averaging at IDLE?

 

If you want any more details regarding any temps or voltage readings let me know!  :)

 

Build Spec:

CPU: Intel i7 4790k - 4Ghz

PSU: Corsair RM Series - 650W Modular - 80 Plus Gold

Cooling: Cooler Master Nepton 240M - Faulty?!?!
MoBo: MSI Z97I Gaming Ack - Mini-ITX

RAM: HyperX Fury Series DDR3 1866Mhz - 1x8GB
SSD: Samsung Evo 850 2.5" - 120GB
Case: BitFenix - Prodigy
GFX: To follow once the build is stable...

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Hi Daniel,

Your CPU Temp is stil okay if your ambient temperature is around 30 ~ 32 degrees . But the ticking noise from the pump is not good, u better return it. In a close loop liquid cooling you can get around 30 degrees cpu temp if your ambient temperature (room Temp) is around 20 ~25 degrees and CPU at idle processor state. The Pump RPM should be constant at all times, better connect it directly to PSU and not in the mother board header.

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Daniel Rudd    0

Hi Daniel,

Your CPU Temp is stil okay if your ambient temperature is around 30 ~ 32 degrees . But the ticking noise from the pump is not good, u better return it. In a close loop liquid cooling you can get around 30 degrees cpu temp if your ambient temperature (room Temp) is around 20 ~25 degrees and CPU at idle processor state. The Pump RPM should be constant at all times, better connect it directly to PSU and not in the mother board header.

 

Hi Ryan,

Thank you for your reply :)

Ambient temp is around 26C so the CPU temp is still too high im going to fit the standard POS (Piece of Sh*t) heatsink that comes in the i7 box until I have replaced it.

To be honest I was more drawn to the Corsair Hydro Series H100i GTX but decided to go with the Nepton 240M... wishing i never bothered -.-

I am now hoping for a refund and repurchase what i thought in the first place -.- benefits of Corsair Link without additional hardware is a bonus :o

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Steve Lewis    0

I've posted this elsewhere, but it appears to fit well here, because I'm using the Nepton 240M in a (sort-of custom) front-mount position.

 

Case:  CM HAF 935 - With the 925 on top and 915 on bottom.

Cooling:  1.  Case Fans are two Jet-Flow 120 fans at the top of the 925 (one blowing IN, the other OUT), One Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWM fan at top rear.  I use Silverstone PWM splitters to connect multiple fans.
 2.  CoolerMaster Nepton 240M FRONT-MOUNTED with its JetFlow 120s on the inside ("pull") plus two Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWM fans added on the "push" side.  Full details of this build are at http://community.coolermaster.com/index.php/topic/12698-haf-stacker-935-front-mounted-nepton-240m/

CPU: i7-5820K (stock clocked)

RAM:  Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4 2800MHz (PC4 2800)

PSU: be quiet! Dark Power Pro

GPU:  GTX 960 - factory OC'd

Win 8.1 Pro 64bit

I tried CoreTemp, but for some reason it REALLY FUBAR'd the OS (actually hogging CPU cycles and raising temps), so I switched to
HWINFO64, which has run without a glitch.

Temps:

Idle:  25-27 degrees Celsius (22 degrees ambient)

Moderate load: ~55C

Peak:  (ripping 17 minutes of Hi-def video with Handbrake)
Core-0:  93C (nearly TJmax)
Core-1:  78C
Core-2:  91C
Core-3:  86C
Core-4:  85C
Core-5:  88C

Note:  There are, according to several posts I've seen, sample-to-sample variations in the i7-5XXX series, with some running hotter than others.
 
A CRITICAL MEASURE of the Nepton 240M's function is the time it takes to cool the CPU down from peak temps.  Mine has worked very well, taking no more than 8-10 seconds to drop the 5820K from peak down to idle temps.  I have heard no clicking from the pump, even though it has to pull the coolant "uphill" from the radiator.

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Hello!

I'm building a new rig, but I'm having some problems, the cpu temp is climbing way to high, it's in the high 80's in bios, after 20-30 sec, and not stopping ....

What can be the problem? I have a nepton 120xl on a i7-4790k....

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CM Patrick    34

Hello Lasse,

 

Please check your pump RPM to make sure the pump is functioning.

 

Respectfully,

Patrick
CMUSA Support

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Both The pump and radiator fan is on full speed.

But I removed The heatsink to check the thermal paste, and it had barely been smudged around, so I'm guessing it does not have sufficient pressure/contact between cpu and heatsink. Any suggestions on how i can increase The pressure?

Thank you

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Steven Li    0

Greetings!

 

Will the Seidon 120V fit over the 6th gen Intel processors? Skylake socket 1151. Looking for confirmation before I dive in and start building.

 

Thanks

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I have a Iceberg 240L Prestige that's been sitting on it's own for a while, 1 ½ years now (had to RMA the motherboard and CPU). I am now in progress of installing the new CPU, but notice that a rather large amount of air is trapped in the window on the pump part, I would say I could fill it with some 5-8cl of fluid, it's some 2 by 2 by 2 cm large. I cannot locate any leaking or any odd things about it. Should I top it up with fluid, and with what fluid then? The tank/pump has been hanging below the radiator for the whole time, but the hoses are lower so air will stay trapped there, I will be able to run the pump without the cooler being attached to the CPU as I have a low end CPU with aircooler attached at the moment (for checking why the computer  didn't work before, it was cheap) Should I run it for a while and see that the pump works and maybe the air will move to the radiator? But if I have to swap the whole amount of coolant, wich one works with this cooler, as it is a copper/copper system? And finally, would I be able to top the original fluid up with just destilled water, as the amount is small I don't think it would dilute the original especially much. Please could I get some feedback on my thoughts, and for moderators, feel free to move the question to the right place if I placed it wrong.

 Thank you

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