Slade122

Nepton 280L Performance

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Slade122    0

I have an issue with my Nepton 280L not cooling my PC adequately.

 

Link to my RigBuilder page on overclock.net

 

-or-

 

Parts List:

Case: Lian-Li PC-T60B

PSU: ABS MJ1100

CPU: 4790K

MOBO: ASUS Sabertooth Z97 MK2 (2012 Bios Rev.)

GFX : 2x 6970 + Accelero Extreme II Coolers

RAM: 2x 8GB A-Data XPG v2 2400mhz

OS HDD: Vertex 4

Storage HDD: HGST Ultrastar 2TB

CPU Cooler: Nepton 280L

 

Thermal Paste: Noctua NT-H1

 

Fan Config: Push+Pull Config on the Radiator, 2x Jet-Flo fans front mounted, 2x 120mm Akasa Viper Fans on the back side. Pump connected to CPU Fan Header. Jet-FLO fans connected to CPU_OPT Fan Header. Akasa Fans connected to other MB fan Headers.

 

Fan Speeds: Pump reports 6553 RPM, JET-FLO's spin up or down depending on heat, same with the Akasa's.

 

Radiatior is mounted on an optional front-mounted fan accessory kit for the T60B case.

 

Important Mobo Settings:

LLC: OFF (Level 1)

HT: ON

Core Ratio: Stock

CPU Voltage: 1.23V

 

 

Temp statistics AS-IS:

Idle: 36-40C

Regular Load (Gaming): 65-75C

Prime95 SmallFFT: 100C+

Intel XTU: 83-95C

AIDA64: 80-93C

 

My problem:

Temperatures rise to extremely high temps rapidly, and eventually stabilize, generally fluctuation plus or minus up to ~10 degrees depending on the load type. The fluctuation is lower when gaming, and higher when using a synthetic stressing tool. Some loads, like Prime95's SmallFFT test can not be compensated for by the cooler, causing throttling within about 5 seconds of running the test.

 

To me, it feels like the CPU is sitting too low, or the water block is too high, and that adequate pressure can not be placed on the CPU in order to permit optimal heat transfer from the CPU to the water block. I have confirmed this every time I removed the water block, only a small portion of the block actually had any thermal paste on it from the CPU.

 

Solutions Tried:

- Watching the installation video several times to ensure correct installation

- Re-mount water block copious amounts of times.

- Clean and Re-apply thermal paste copious amounts of times (Using both the spread method, and the Pea+Pressure method)

- Reverse Waterblock mounts so the brackets go up instead of down before going horizontal (Results in mount screws not being long enough, but tried with black spacers (still need to try without)

- Using and Not using the Black spacers for the mount screws

 

At this point I'm pretty much at a loss of what else to try, because I just don't seem to be getting much (or any) pressure at all on the CPU. It seems to be a compatibility issue with my MB at this point, or a failure of some kind of my part that I'm not seeing.

 

Worst of All, on my last install attempt, I sheared one of the mounting bolts, and ordered a new accessory kit as of yesterday (1/7/15) - but CM isn't shipping until 1/12/15 according to the website.

 

Needless to say, it's back to the stock cooler until I can get the parts and try mounting the brackets for the block upside down, without using the spacers to see if it will work for me that way.

 

Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

Thank You

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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world    84

Any chances you can post a few pictures of your waterblock/pump unit, and maybe the socket area of your motherboard?

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Slade122    0

Any chances you can post a few pictures of your waterblock/pump unit, and maybe the socket area of your motherboard?

 

Fresh eyes (and less frustration) helped solve this problem.

 

Here is how I was wanting to arrange the cooler initially:

20150108_174202_zpsgsj45yxf.jpg

 

Here is the problem with that configuration. Basically, the Block is wider one way than the other, and the way I was mounting it just barely was touching those caps, but enough so that the cooler could not sit flush with the cpu. The Caps causing the problem are circled in red in the image below

aacd731d-ed27-4250-96f5-88ba4196bb1d_zps

 

My solution was to rotate the block/pump mechanism 90 degrees so that the tubes come out closest to the RAM slots. I'll post up some finalized pics of the box once I get my replacement parts for the cooler and clean up the cabling after I left it a wreck from assembling and disassembling so many times.

 

This dropped my temps by 20-30C, even with a screw missing on one corner of the cooler. I was able to clock my 4970k to 4.9ghz and keep it cool.

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world    84

Dang, it's unfortunate that the caps get in the way, but I'm glad you figured it out, and also that the fix is pretty easy to do

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