CM Jerry

[Official] Nepton Owner's Club

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Peleg Wasserman,

First off I want to compliment you on your Cooler Master HAF XM case it is a darn shame it was discontinued because it is a absolutely fantastically awesome super duper case. Sorry but I love the HAF XM cases and not the windowed versions. I am sporting a HAH 922 case that is so old it does not even have USB 3.0 ports in the front and i would almost give a arm and a leg for a reasonably priced HAF XM case to move my 4966mhz i7-2600K rig into.  

Anyway lets get to the point you would probably be better off removing your top 200mm fan and installing the other 140mm jetrflow it the top of your case and then do yourself a favor and switch the twin 140 jetflows to intake. It will perform bettere because it is always pushing the coolest air possible through the 280mm radiator. If you are worried about it increasing the internal ambient case temps just don't worry about it trust me. So much air goes through the radiator but for some reason the air temps of the air coming out from the radiator is very cools maybe 3 degrees higher then ambient  even with your CPU at full load. For example My 2600k is built on 32nm a larger process then your 4790k's 22nm process. On top of that my IHS/ integrated heat sink is soldered to the CPU die itself on my 2600k so it transfers all my heat very quickly to the copper coldplates micro fins to the coolant in my Nepoton 140XL's radiator  and the temperature of the air coming through my radiator seems the same all the time ,even under full load for 10-20min strait  the air temperature always feels the same with the 140mm Jetflo's at 1000-1100 rpms. Also it will allow the 200mm fan you are removing to be used on your side panel as a intake or exhaust for you graphics card/cards  depending on what brand and type you have since it can make a big difference setting your side panel fan as a exhaust or intake. EXAMPLE: I have 2 120mm Cougar Vortex fans in my side panel as intakes with SLI'ed 2X EVGA GTX 770 CLassified ACX cooled cards. The cards are not the blower type they are open coled cards with 2 92mm fans on each card blowing down onto the 6 heat pipe fin array that has fins running horizontally across the card " so the fins are running from motherboard to side panel not from rear of case to front of case, that would be lengthwise" Anyway LOADED so much heat from the cards gets blow out from the Graphics cards towards the side panel and the 2x 120mm intake fans and towards the motherboard. Well believe it or not this caused my cards to run a good 20c hotter then they should have been running since the air pressure from the 120mm side panel intake was fighting the heat escaping from the cards towards the side panel = bad. Switching the side panel 120mm fans to exhaust cooled my cards a good 20-25C compared to the 120mm fans as intakes. With the 120mm fans and the graphics cards fin desin and it own fans were fighting each other making a dead spot of air that hardly moved leading to much higher than normal temperatures. So a word from the wise check your Graphics card/cards fin configuration and if they run lengthwise along the length of the card/cards then intake is your best bet. If the fins run across card/cards like my ACX cooled GTX 770 classifieds then side panel exhaust is the way to go.

Also this is just personal preference but besides the front 200mm fan I would replace every 200mm fan with 2 140mm PWM fans of your choosing, 2 140mm fans move much more air then a single slow 200mm fan with very low noise output. Also you have more flexibility on air movement and placement. I am done now and I am still envious of your case so enjoy it buddy. Don't get me wrong, when I Built my 2600k rig just over 4 years ago  69$ for my HAF 922 could not be beat and i was tight on money. I am usually allowed one big upgrade a year. last year was replacing my SLI'ed EVGA Superclocked GTX 560 Ti's  with 2 EVGA GTX 770 4gb Classified cards in SLI. This year was upgrading my Corsair H50 AIO with the CM 140XL, A 240GB 500+MBS SSD to replace my 128GB 250MBS SSD that was full .......... But the best was saved fore last I got a new LG 34UM95 34" 21/9 3440x1440 resolution super wide monitor that is the same width as my 37" vizio HDTV! Just a lot shorter with a tom more pixels.

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Ali Radan    0

Nepton 280L Pump Whine

Hi

I really appreciate to post your opinions about the video
My Nepton 280L
Did you think the Pump is Faulty or not?
cooler master staffs Opinions would be even better!

I just want to know should RMA accept this product for replacement or not?
i knew something was wrong with my AIO but when saw this one, make that thought so clear...!!!

My Friend Nepton 280L

thanks a lot :)

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I think you have to give it some time. If performance is OK then is OK.

Also look into HWiNFO64 and check Pump speed -> should be 6700-7200 RPM and thats is OK.

I have no problems with My Nepton 280L, when i'm turning on my RIG is a little loud for abot less than 1min. then water flows through and its almost silent :D

Have Fun bro

  • Upvote 1

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Ali Radan    0

performance is ok, absolutely solid but it's whining like :)...!!!

it's noise like some dentist working on my teeth, so there is no way i can tolerate it, make me insane :(

i know nepton series are all whiny products, but mine is completely another Beast! just take look at the two videos and tell me i'm wrong

if i use voltage redutor for 4pin cable to reduce pump rpm, does it do damage to the Pump or not?

THnx :)

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Hmm, I don't know what i can help you with.

Its a little loud, mine is silent, almost non audiable.

maby you should contact with CM Support, and let them hear and then make some moves.

Greets Bro

  • Upvote 1

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Ali Radan    0

I just want to know my nepton 280l pump is faulty or not, warranty in my country is a little bit frustrating and take a lot of time, so i need to be sure before sending product for RMA

 

Best Regards

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If ir is whining like you say tell CM to send you a new unit with return postage so you can return it in the new units box since you probably do not want to put on a sucky stock cooler while you wait for the new unit to arrive. 

I have the CM nepton 140xl that has the same identical pump and it is whisper quiet with no little rattle noises or whine of any kind. When you do receive your replacement unit make sure you plug in the pump on a running system so you can listen to the pump by itself outside the case for about 30min to a hour with a full 12v since it is supposed to run at 12v.

If they do send you a full unit with return postage even if you have to put it on a credit card for them to do it then they refund you when they receive faulty unit I suggest if you have the room to try running 4 fans in push pull. this configuration will allow lower fan speeds and give you great cooling at lower quieter fan noise. Mine with it hooked to my 4 + year old p67-ud4-b3 motherboards CPU fan header on silent runs my 2 Push Pull Jetflo's at 700 rpms at idle and is inaudible, under load they run at 1000-1100rpms and are very quiet. 

I just tested it at 4690mhz @ 1.335v at 32c ambient temp and my idle temp is 35C and 15 minutes of intel burn test on lotsa memory tested is 66C with the fans running at 1100rpms, truly amazing. After stopping the load test my idle temps went back to 33c in 2 seconds flat then 32c another second after that. fantastic performance. But with a 140mm radiator that is 38mm thick I have about as much fin area as a 240mm 23-15mm thick radiator does. I have nothing but good things to say about the Nepton series pump assy and the sheer amount of micro fins on the copper cold plate, If I recall correctly frosty tech stated it had more micro fins than the apogee and other DIY home water cooling systems.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      

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Hey everyone! Looking for some help with the Nepton 280l!

The strange problem is, that when I turn on my PC and use it, the pump makes an annoying fast clicking (something like that) sound. Even stranger, that when I put my case on either side, the clicking stops... but then the pump block starts an even more annoying whining sound! I suspect that it might be the tubes getting a bit kinky and the fluid just doing something strange (also, BIOS says the pump is running ~6800RPM, which looks very innocent. SpeedFan shows the same RPM) Any ideas? :(

P.S I'll post a video soon just to show how it looks and sounds.

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Hello everyone,

 

I’ve been trying to build a mini-ITX PC for gamming and media stuff.

So far, the parts are:

CPU:

- MOBO: Gigabyte H97N-WIFI

- CPU: Intel I7-4790K

- RAM: HyperX 16GB 1866MHz DDR3 CL10 DIMM (Kit of 2) HyperX FURY Red Series

- GPU: Gigabyte 660Ti

- PSU: Corsair RM650

- STORAGE: Samsung 850 SSD

- COOLER: Cooler Master Nepton 120 XL

 

I’ve run with some problems that were caused by sort of a incompatibility between the Nepton and the Gigabyte MB.

The problem is that depending on the oritentation the pump cooper base will clash with a capacitors (?) bank on one side of the CPU socket:

 

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UDIM4R6.jpg

 

During my first installation, this led to almost no contact between the CPU and the cooler. Cooling performance was abysmal and the computer refused to POST most of the time.

After taking everything apart, I saw that the thermal paste was mostly smeared to one side of the CPU. Therefore, I checked and rechecked everything and a few things came to light:

1. There is no clear indication on the manual that the hexagonal studs have sides! That is, there is a black plastic washer on one side, which is barely visible. I have no idea if I was using them on the correct orientation.

2. The cooper base has a “lip†that may conflict with components surrounding the CPU socket.

 

The first observation led me to use some isolating washers that I had from some old builds between the studs and the MB:

 

azmuEnh.jpg

 

The ones that are glued to the studs are so thin that they seen to do nothing at all, in addition to have some weird glue residue on them.

 

The second problem was solved changing the orientation of the pump block. Two orientations are possible with the hoses pointed to the back of the MB or to the front. Actually, with my build only one orientation was possible, as the hoses would press against the fist RAM module.

 

3Vx3IE2.jpg

 

28MRLwA.jpg

 

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iaj7Lz9.jpg

 

 

With that being done I can say that my temps are now under controls and the cooler seems very quiet. The PC cannot be heard in a living room environment and the only time I have seen the fans spin up and become LOUD is running prime95 with 8 threads.

 

I just hope that there was no damage to the MB or CPU.

I believe, CoolerMaster and Gigabyte should put a compatibility warning on their products.

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