CM Jerry

[Official] Nepton Owner's Club

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Bear304    0

This is how my CM Nepton 240m's pump sounded before i got it RMA'ed, and i'm not even going to bother opening up the new one i got, as i'll just get that one upgraded to the Corsair H100i GTX, which has much more options like Corsair Link  ;)

 

But i would think it was something in cooling fluid circulating inside the loop about every 25 seconds or so, (had it outside the system and shacking it, and left it running for a few hours, and still the same weird friction noise in my video), so imo. it must faulty.

 

_____

Edit:

Could also be the pump's bearing that's the problem of the noise, but anyway i'm done with the Nepton 240m

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Kristijan    0

Do you have a system you can hook up the fans and pump to without installing the unit? If so I recommend you let the pump run outside the case for a good hour at least maybe even overnight without the fans making any noise and see if the pump noise subsides. Also orient the radiator in different positions while the pumo is running to see if it is picking up any air. I know my system had a bit of air in the system because i could hear it when i shook the radiator and spun it around during inspection before installation. Plus I always run any AIO system for at least 1o minutes to check for leaks and noises. Mine was very quiet outside the case running at the recommended full 12v and 7000+ or - 1-200 rpms. 

Good luck and let me know how the pump sounds after long run outside the case....if it is still ticking I would RMA it again. I got a nice a quiet one and just FYI I run my system 24/7 and have not shut down the system for longer then the few hours it took me to install the new 140XL. My dinky Corsair H50 I had cooling my 2600k for 4 years never took a break for 35,040 hours and did a admirable job for the 1st 2 years with 2  Enermax Magma push pull fans then the second 2 years I used 2  Cougar Vortex push pull fans. But the last year I must have had corrosion in the micro fins and radiator reducing it's cooling ability since the cold plate is copper and the radiator is aluminum. Mixingg those 2 metals and then having the coolant loose its anti corrosion ability from age can cause corrosion bad.

Thank you I will try to run it outside the case and see if the noise is still there. 

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Hate to say it but it looks like another RMA is in order. This time see if you can get them to send out the replacement unit 1st because it is possible you may have received your original one back if I recall correctly that it had the same noise before and since this will be the second RMA. Even if you have to give a CC number so they can make sure they receive the defective unit back. Plus since you also have a fan noise you can make sure you have 2 quiet fans and then send back the defective pump and fans. Then you will be a happy camper with quiet fans and a quiet pump.

 

I do not know if they will do it but after 2 RMA they really should be thinking hard about customer satisfaction or they are going to get bad reviews from you and everyone else who receives noisey NEW parts.

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Nanco    0

I must say that I am kinda worried since after installation of Nepton 280l I hear clicking sound coming from the pump. The sound is the same as on Kristijans pump noise video. 

 

I have checked tubing and screws are not too tightly screwed. I also am positive it is coming from the pump. 

 

I have z87-PRO from Asus, and 2 fans are connected with Y connector to CPU fan that has PWM. Pump is connected to CPU OPT, which is exactly the same as CPU fan. I have tried to switch them around and sound still remains. 

 

What should I do to fix the problem? Is the noise coming from the pump proof that pump is defective and that I should return it? Or is something that I actually missed?

 

Thanks in advance

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Nanco I would get a different one from where you bought it or do the RMA process. I have my pump hooked up to a full 12v so it is running at around 7000 rpms and that is what it is supposed to run at. In a previous post I stated I ran my Nepton 140xl that has the same pump out of the case for a hour so I could clearly hear the pump and check for unlikely leaks and noises and mine was quiet as a mouse.The only thing I do not like about the fans is the shape, they are round on the outside and do not seal up with the radiator. I fixed that on both sides of my 140xl with some small strips of gorilla tape that I used to seal the fans to the radiator so every once of air the fans produce get pushed and pulled through my radiator and I am not losing 5-15% of the air with the fans on low speed in particular from air leaking from the contact point of the fans and radiator. I dida clean job installing the Monkey tape too and it is gloss black like the cooler so  :ph34r: evil7.gif evil6.gif evil4.gif evil1.gif happy2.gif happy6.gif laughing4.gif ..Oh sorry playing around :wub:

 

If you do RMA it with Coolermaster make sure you write down your serial # to make sure they do not send back the same unit you return or get themto send you out a new unit with a return label.

 

I have my pump hooked to the 12v PWR fan header and the fans on my CPU fan header with the splitter on my 4 year old Gigabyte P67-UD4-B3 motherboard with the CPU fan set on normal with my 2600k running at 4966mhz @ 1.424 volts and my temps do not go above 67c on my hottest core that is 8-10c hotter than 2 other cores and 2c hotter then the remaining core. the fans do get up to 1400rpms once the temps rises and is a little noisey but it is rare that it gets loaded to 100%. at idle they run at 680 rpms and are inaudible and I can hear my Cougar Vortex 120mm PWM fans running at 80% but not the jetflo 140's at 680rpms. Now gaming at say a 50% CPU  load with 2 EVGA GTX 770 4gb cards in sli pushing a 34" LG UM95 3440-1440 IPS panel they might get up to 8-900rpms but are still very quiet. 

I plan on downclocking to 4500mhz since 4.9ghz+ is not needed and I am just wasting electricity since I can run at 4.5 at 1.3v and plan on switching the CPU fan header to silent to see the RPM;'s and temps I get then. But I am sure it will not break 60c with such low voltage. Plus Sandy Bridge chips have the same gaming power as IVY and Haswell within 1-3% in gaming so I plan on keeping this rig another 4 years since performance is not much better enough by a longshot to upgrade from my 2600k Plus it is a lot easier to keep cool then ivy and haswell. Also with DX12 around the corner and its fantastic overhead reductions any Mainstream CPU from Sandy to Haswell will last a long long time. DX12 will even take 2 cards in SLI or crossfire and kinda treat them like one big card with split frame rendering so each card will only use half the memory since it is only rendering half the screen so 2 4gb cards will be like a 8gb card. Compared to what we have now with alternating frame rendering where each card takes turns rendering the whole screen so they both have to use the same amount of memory. Also Nvidia announce they will be supporting DX12 with cards all the way back to fermi so my 770s will support DX12!! along with alot of other peoples cards which is great since I thought I was going to have to sell my cards for DX12 cards. 

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Hi :wink: I have Nepton 280L v.2 about a year now ! And all noises and Pump "weird" behavior is normal thing. Nothing to worry about :D

Always set in BIOS and in Windows 30-50% Fan profiles (no need for more really :wink: And fan's 140mm are sound-less. I barely hear my computer working.

Pump needs 1min to up 1h to full up its speed and eficiency !

I'm Easy ! on CM so Nepton 280L is Great WC AiO -> the Best performance to date !

  • Upvote 1

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Pclinde    197

Hi :wink: I have Nepton 280L v.2 about a year now ! And all noises and Pump "weird" behavior is normal thing. Nothing to worry about :D

Always set in BIOS and in Windows 30-50% Fan profiles (no need for more really :wink: And fan's 140mm are sound-less. I barely hear my computer working.

Pump needs 1min to up 1h to full up its speed and eficiency !

I'm Easy Nepton 280L is Great WC AiO -> the Best performance to date !

Hi MarcyÅ› S,

 

Thanks for sharing your personal experience. The BIOS settings might help out a lot of members. :)

  • Upvote 1

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I've been running 280L with a core i7 4790 on stock clock for a month now. Idle temp stays at around 5-7deg above ambient. Its HAF XM and the radiator is on top instead of the top 2 fans.I left one stock FAN on the radiator and replaced the second with a 200mm fan. Fans are connected to the CPU and CPU OPT connectors. Pump is on sys1. Only downside is that fans are pulling air through the radiator instead of pushing. But there is nothing I can do in this setup to change it.

What was driving me nuts was the pump whine noise. Today I put the SYS1 connector on silent in my BIOS settings abd RPM dropped to 3600-3700 and the pump is now silent. I havent noticed a significant change in cooling but my ears are now at peace :)

I know its an overkill for a stock CPU.

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