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quizz_kid

[Scratch Build] R-Kaid-Revelation COMPLETED!

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quizz_kid    0

Revelation

v4bw.jpg

vt8q.jpg

For more final pictures, see below.

Video demonstration(Music credits: Turrican scores performed and supported by Chris Huelsbeck)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Da8c2uauncA

Making of video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEdmc-Pgw1M

Revelation is basically a huge game archive. This is truly my biggest project so far, and it’s going to be one :) of a machine. :D

I started this build in June, and my goal is to have it fisished in November. I've put more than 1000 hrs into this build already, so enjoy the recap!

Some features:

- A dual gaming system

- An intergrated 500 ANSI LED projector

- A transparent 22†LCD that will, while having the function of a regular monitor, also display a beautiful water cooled PC system underneath.

- A decent soundsystem

- A turning foot stand

- Two wireless joystick gamepads, stored and intergraded into the main console like pulling drawers in the front.

- A modified wireless wooden keyboard/mouse setup that will rest upside down on top of the chassis when not in use.

The color concept will be black stained walnut, black and copper, so there´ll be a lot of wood working and some finer copper processing.

Here is a very rough low res sketch:

ptvr.jpg

Planning:

There's a lot of stuff going into this build, so the construction have to be optimal. It was a real pain to design it, and took me over 3 months. The case will be divided into two segments, vertically.

PC Specs:

CPU: Intel i5 3570k

Motherboard: MSI mitx Z77IA-S01 Inet Edition

PSU: Be Quiet! 550w

RAM: Corsair Dominators 2x4GB

SSD: 2x Corsair 240gb disks

GPU: ZOTAC GTX670 AMP! 2GB

Water cooling:

CPU: Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light - Acetal Edition

GPU: Alphacool NexXxoS NVXP Nvidia GTX680

Pump: Alphacool DC-LT Ceramic - 12V DC Pro with plexi top

Radiator: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 360mm

Res: Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 10 - Copper Edition

Fittings: Alphacool shiny copper

Fan cooling: 7x Be Quiet! Silent Wings 2

Additional:

Keyboard: Logitech K810

Projector: LG PB60G

LCD: Samsung transparent 22†display

Joysticks: Ultimarc J-Stiks

So, let's get on with the processing.

I started by cutting some walnut

a38sf.jpg

Glued them together for the side panels

a37z.jpg

Some other pieces were made for the bezel of the LCD

a36hv.jpg

Pieces planed and flush

a35o.jpg

This is after some cutting. You can see I've been using laser for some of the details here. Then I drilled three holes in each piece from below, using a long 5mm drill. After that, I had to seperate the panels in 3.5º angles, so I used a dimsaw. I will have m5 inserts in the upper segemet to secure it all together. More about that later.

a33tv.jpg

Here is the start of a foot stand. I used MDF and made a 800mm long piece, about 30mm thick.

a32oh.jpg

Some dimsaw cutting, and I had eight pieces of cake =)

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Put some old veneer on those

a30me.jpg

Well, you’ll get the idea

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Then I started on some laser cut detail pieces. The laser can only go about 4mm deep into solid wood, so removal of material is a must.

a28mn.jpg

You can see the fancy stuff in this picture, which means that I’m almost through.

a27u.jpg

Laser cut stuff in a pile

a26ks.jpg

Close up. This piece right here is for ventilation in the lower case segment.

a25qi.jpg

On to some metal work. To support the machine, the turning foot stand has to be very stable. I chose a simple solution for stability and weight, solid steel.

a24q.jpg

This is after some welding and turning.

a23x.jpg

And after some sanding… a perfect fit! This construction will be mounted under the wooden octagon later on.

a22s.jpg

Made some mountings for the radiator, which will be placed on the back of the console later on.

a21nt.jpg

2mm steel bended in a 13º angle

a20oae.jpg

Over to some copper processing and started on some knobs for fan control and other things.

a19cy.jpg

The result.

a18ch.jpg

This piece right here is for the projector. Sort of the eye of the console I guess.

a17vm.jpg

For the water cooling I'll use 15mm copper piping, and these are the fittings.

a16ui.jpg

I tried some pipe bending, but my pipes are too brittle, so I’ll just use pre-bent 90 fittings instead.

a15rp.jpg

And here are some of the components going into this beast:

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Water cooling goodies....

Aquatuning and Alphacool

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For the keyboard mod I’ll use a Logitechs Bluetooth illuminated K810

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And this is the transparent 22†display. In order to function it’ll need light from behind, so I’ll work with that as well later on.

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This is the small projector I'll be using for Revelation. It's the LG PB60G, and it's a very bright little beamer with its 500 ANSI

i0qo.jpg

... and of course I had to open her up and see how she looks on the inside.

p3lj.jpg

Because of the position of the lens, I won't have acess to the focus dial when centered. So I'll have to make some kind of extension. This is where LEGO technic comes very handy =) More about this later

7s35.jpg

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quizz_kid    0

Woodwork of today:

Drilled a lot of holes today. Due to some sparse dimensions, I figured I had to use 4mm dowels connecting the differnet pieces.

Here are the the parts for the lower section that'll house beamer and foot stand.

o9h.jpg

When drilling holes in the side panel parts, I made a simple 3,5º jig...

rtxx.jpg

... and just slided the pieces in there. Very efficient!

54st.jpg

Here are the three ledges that'll keep the upper structure together for now. They are tiny, and might look simple from above...

hjc7.jpg

But as you can see, I've put a lot of work into these looking at the profiles.

5gwf.jpg

Then I used a router for some inner sliding tracks.

bu8x.jpg

From above.

d48h.jpg

Then I dry fitted the construction with dowels, just to get an idea of how it'll look like later. This is the lower section.

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Upper section.

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Sections mounted together

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Another angle.

p7qy.jpg

Continued on the foot stand today. Started by removing a lot of material below...

tsoo.jpg

Had to make some special tracks because of my n00b welding skills

9e92.jpg

Put the steel construction in there and drilled som holes for wood insert nuts later

gmhw.jpg

Made a cove on top and a small chamfer below, for a nice touch,

l7i4.jpg

Here it is... I'm quiet happy with the result. I will paint the lower steel construction later, black I think. Or copper perhaps.

aj14.jpg

Then I started on the framework of the LCD. Made these 12mm thin walnut pieces and started to cut.

y1dr.jpg

I usually complicate things, for the fun of it, and this is no exeption. I wanted the bezel to follow the angle of the side panels, and then make it a bit curved for a retro touch. Here's a simple jig for the dim saw.

z0mo.jpg

After a lot of trial and error I finally got it right. These small angles everywhere are a pain.

gyqr.jpg

Then I draw some lines for the curves and started sanding.

mgaj.jpg

The two side pieces have the same angles, so I just taped them together for the mirror effect.

8ly3.jpg

Pieces with curves.

chha.jpg

Used the router for some round overs and then added some dowels

r65b.jpg

Glued under pressure.

9d3q.jpg

Put it through the sanding master and got it down to exactly 10mm. Framework complete. Here's a dry fit.

k1qm.jpg

It's hard to capture the small angles in photos due to the lens effect, but here's the bezel illustrated for a better visual.

eex8.jpg

Bezel corner, close up.

eoif.jpg

Here's a picture from the back where you can see that the bezel fit right into the sliding track I made yesterday.

jmie.jpg

Started on the keyboard modification. Cut some pieces...

eari.jpg

I took what I had left, and had to use two differnet kinds of walnut for this one. But I'm sure they'll blend together when I put some stain on it later.

qtzy.jpg

So, this was going to be a challange in terms of delicate modding. Did some accurate milling.

9iu5.jpg

This is the design idea. One keyboard and one storage unit(for remote controllers and mouse) These will be snapped together with hidden magnets.

cvvt.jpg

This is one of four very complex corners

xhab.jpg

The slim Logitech keyboard can't be disassembled, whitch sadly means that I can't make any surgery on on/off buttons etc. I simply had to make holes for USB charging and on/off button.

gt1g.jpg

Then I realized I'd milled the USB socket on the wrong side :sigh: Well, I had to fix that.

o4uk.jpg

j2yd.jpg

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After that, I made some drilling for those hidden magnets, mirrored on each unit.

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Ang glue them together.

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I aslo started making the speakers. Never made anything like this, so I just had to go with guts on this one. Please let me know if I do something really stupid here. Pieces cut.

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Holes for the elements

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Oh yeah, it's that 3.5 angle again. Mmmmm...

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Here's the system I had in mind. The 90 angle in PVC is for some bass(hopefully) Not really sure what I'm doing here =)

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Assembled fronts.

m3zg.jpg

Front mounted inside. I'm not sure, but should I add some silencing material inside?

5t4f.jpg

Finally, I received the slim mouse which I'm going to make into something woody later

jie4.jpg

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quizz_kid    0

Update

More work on the side panels. Three brass inserts in each side
lkwa.jpg

Had to look around for really long screws and found these 120mm M5 in black on ebay... which is nice!
3jlq.jpg

Screwed the panels together. Time to make them flush...
sxc3.jpg

Done! I didn't expect the cut hiding this well. The idea was to have a small chamfer in between, but the pieces look so nice so I'll just leave them be.
6xcx.jpg

Here's a close up. It's hidden pretty well =)
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Another close up... It's barely visible.
y0fu.jpg

Then I added some padding to the speakers and sealed it all.
y1t9.jpg

Done! Tried them out, and they sound really good as well. The port does a great job, delivering some extra bass. Some times you're just lucky I guess =)
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This is where they'll be mounted, behind the side panels.
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They will also provide some extra support for the chassis construction... That's nice!
s5.jpg

Front view.
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I also got started on making the mouse. Here are the parts cut.
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Four sides glued.
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This is where I am now. The design is some what inspired by that bulky mouse from SNES. Will put veneer on the sides tomorrow.
tw81.jpg

Off the the keyboard again. For some symmetry I made a small cut using a knife, reflecting the meeting point of keyboard/storage unit.
7s5h.jpg

Made sliding backsides for good accessibility.
0v7n.jpg

Another shot. Will put some "Quizz-stain-painting" on the backs later.
3xid.jpg

I had to hide that ugly black finish between the keys, so I lasercut two optional materials:
w4hb.jpg

Walnut veneer...
9ew4.jpg

... and a piece of brown leather. I can't decide what's best here. I guess the leather is more functional and will add some contrast. But I like the veneer as well... Hmm
p2s6.jpg



And here is an idea for a problem I've been stuggling with for some time now. When gaming on the transparent LCD, the electronics/components behind the it may distract a bit. I've come up with some ideas, but I decided to go with a kind of spring roller blind modification.

This is the spring roller blind/sunshade for cars which I'll use. It's a bit too long, so I'll cut it and make some modifications later.
v9et.jpg

And the materal I'll use for the actual blind? WOOD OF COURSE!!! I've never seen this before, but it's a veneer that's been sliced up, held together by small threads on the backside. Perfect for this project.
dwvg.jpg

When rolled out, it looks like any veneer...
bndy.jpg

... but if you look closely, you can see the fine cut segments, mm by mm. Amazing! It's a bit fragile, so I'll have some kind of fabric glued on the backside I guess...
d5q7.jpg



started on the joystick pads. When not in use, they'll go into the chassis like pull out chest drawers, more about that later.
zjer.jpg

8mm MDF glued into the frame work, and then some nice veneer.
xn8p.jpg

Then I had to cut one of the sides in that 3.5 angle... the dimsaw got the job done pretty easy.
m1n8.jpg

I will have some magnets hidden in the side facing the chassis side panel, so I made a simple 3.5 angle jig and drilled two holes.
j2pe.jpg

Some veneering to hide the holes.
w3cc.jpg

8mm magnets inserted from inside.
v6zf.jpg

Did the same thing on the chassis side panel, mirrored of course. Drilled 1mm too deep, and used small pieces of veneer to fill up the distance.
cnh.jpg

Some epoxy
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On to the mouse again. I didn't like the grains on the first one, so I made a new one. Didnt have access to lasercutter this time, so had to use my machine skills for some precise milling.
npr7.jpg

First hole done...
ucwd.jpg

Finished. I like the one-piece bent veneer on this one, better flow in the grains.
xylc.jpg

Then I planed a very small piece of walnut for the sliding fan grill on top(I'll tell you more about this later) I wanted to make a small 1.5mm track through it, and made this very simple but effective milling jig.
m0kw.jpg


The piece is very fragile, with its 26x4x540mm.
h25f.jpg


Also continued a bit on that wooden blind. I applied some fabric on the backside and began to cut it in the right dimensions. Used two thick MDF sheets to keep it steady while cutting.
qcro.jpg

This is after cutting.
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Tada!
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Made the buttons for the mouse.
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Made the lens protection, slightly tampered.
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Here, with the copper projector fitting. Perfect fit!
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Another angle.
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Made a lath for the blind in walnut and glued them together.
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Another photo.
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Mounting holes in side panels for the blind construction.
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I'm going to use bearings for the blind construction, and made two cylinders with grooves.
awvr.jpg

Here are other ingredients...
s39w.jpg

Made three fittings for the bearings in solid walnit. Overkill maybe, but who doesn't like nice looking constructions =)
xupw.jpg

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quizz_kid    0

Here it is, mounted onto the side panel.

 

r1.jpg

Here's a smaller bearing thingy.

r2.jpg

 

Then I made a mounting/stand for the projector...

r3.jpg

 

Some support pieces in the joystick pads.

r4.jpg

 

Threaded M4 inserts...

r5.jpg

 

... and countersunk screws... Jummy!

r6.jpg

 

Drilled holes for buttons, joystick etc.

r7.jpg

 

The foot stand is done, and I'm really satified. Copper and walnut is sweeeet!

r8.jpg

 

Close up.

r9.jpg


 

Kind of a big update

 

 

I stained the walnut and then glued all the pieces.

gy31.jpg

 

Here is the upper section of the main chassis. This is after some sanded-edges-patina and two layers of Danish oil.

ljg3.jpg

 

Same piece, with a shot of the sidepanel. I first felt quite bad putting stain on beautiful timber like that, but after the finish it really glows. Very satisfied!

1uqd.jpg

 

Here's the lower section. You can really see the fantastic job the stain/oil did on the veneer on top. Looks really old and authentic.

zxao.jpg

 

Another shot, here with a joypad/pull-out-drawer slided out.

wqrx.jpg

 

The keyboard/storage unit and some walnut mountings.

u7e7.jpg

 

The mouse with stained end grain buttons... I like it!

aqel.jpg

 

I wasn't sure about the walnut frame/bezel for the LCD, so I made an alternative one on MDF, painted plain cream egg white. I'm not sure what's better here...

fl74.jpg

 

The walnut bezel has some really nice grains to it, but is IMO a bit too much. I think this build needs a change in material, for contrast. Still, it's a very nice walnut piece...

fv68.jpg

 

Here's a close up of the corner. It's not a perfect joint, but it works I guess.

dxh5.jpg

 

Here's the eggy alternative. I really like the contrast...

kptg.jpg

 

Close up of corner. Much better precision here, and smoother. What's your thoughts?

bb0c.jpg

 

Here are the parts of my joystick mods. Since the pads are going to be low profile drawers, I had to do something abut the joystick shafts. I kept it very basic; removable shaft using simple screw on/off. Quite proud of the solution though.

5cs8.jpg

 

Mounted. You can see the M6 thread for the shaft. To secure it, you just use a screwdriver from under the joystick, the backside of the pad.

vrg5.jpg

 

Then I drilled a hole in the joystick from the side...

v7oy.jpg

 

And inserted a thread here as well. This will let the joystick shafts be used as pull knobs for the drawers. More about that later, but I'm very proud over that design.

kyqc.jpg

 

I made a tray for the PC, in birch ply which I stained a bit.

3z76.jpg

 

And this is where I'm right now, playing with components =) It's quite a mess right now, making an attemt as a plumber. You can see some of the components here; a MSI mitx Inet edition board, a ZOTAC GTX670 AMP! 2GB, both with blocks from Alphacool.

7idv.jpg

 

Here's the Alphacool DC-LT Ceramic DC Pro pump and couple of Corsair Dominators, both modded a bit. The memories got a copper paint job and the pump got some new holes for mounting.

qwgb.jpg

 

You can get an idea of the loop in this shot I guess. All parts will be polished later of course. For the loop I'll be using Alphacooling compression fittings, plumbing angles and 15mm copper pipes, and they don't match that well =) So there's going to be some DIY surgery later on, without the use of welding. More about this later...

rrcs.jpg

 

Here's a shot of the lower chassis with footstand and beamer mounted. Also added some copper mesh. Looks pretty cool!

nhs1.jpg

 

From behind.

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Took me like 25min just to cut through this little sucker. Tool steel is pain...

bmnd.jpg

 

But I had to cut it, because it's going into the lens protection. Sort of a hidden little screwdriver for securing the joystick shafts to the pads. And you really don't want the bit scratching/touching the lens, so I needed at least a couple of mms for margins. I aslo found a nice copper chain suiting the theme.

hfnt.jpg

 

Here's another shot... For some weeks now, all the copper parts has grown some really nice patina. I will probably polish it up before mounting, but maybe leave it susceptible for the coming years. Haven't decided on that yet. It's that or wax I guess.

7sej.jpg

 

Then I made a sliding mounting in ply for the LCD and a piece of 2mm protective glass.

hyd6.jpg

 

I made this little guy just for fun I guess. It's the pulling knob/handle for the blind. Don't know if I'll use it though, I might go for one of those little gizmos that are used for opening/tightening highschool gymnastics bags. The ones that secure/releases the string by pushing a little small plastic button. I don't know what they are called though. Any ideas?

vh0m.jpg

 

I painted the SSDs copper and made black vinyl stickers, to suit the overall theme. Think it looks really good, I just hope Corsair's OK with this =)

i5zt.jpg

 

Some sleeved cables attached...

6r2c.jpg

 

Here is a less messy picture of the PC layout in whole. Almost done, but still got the plumbing work ahead of me.

4ar.jpg

 

Try fitted inside the chassis. The tray slides in there like a charm =)

0uyp.jpg

 

Here is the wooden blind mounted in place. The bearing construction works, but it'll need some modifications to be perfected. I want it smooth of course, but that's after vaccation.

ezh9.jpg

 

This is the backside of the tray, with the rad and 3x BeQuiet Silent Wings secured with those 13 angle mountings I made in the beginning. You can also see that I'll use a chain of 2x PCI-E risers for the GPU.

52vz.jpg

 

Here's the four chassis fans that's going on top, mounted on this sled thingy I made. The Silent Wings has a weird mounting system, but for this perforated plate, it an ideal solution actually =)

s5ss.jpg

 

Other side.

cbf6.jpg

 

You just slide it in there, and gets secured in there by the a backpanel.

d6n7.jpg

 

Here's from the front with almost everything mounted. Margins are minimal, as you expect when building a complex beast like this =)

8we5.jpg

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quizz_kid    0

I started with the boring stuff, joystick wiring. This is not just very boring, but also very very time consuming.

The controller I'll be working with uses 2xAAA batteries, and I want to have them rechargable by USB for some ease. So I gathered the parts for the charging circuit. Some resistors, indication LED and a small DC socket.

dwva.jpg

Finished board. I'll then have a USB to DC cord connecting the pads to Revelation on the back.

ysmp.jpg

Joystick mod, battery holder and circuit board mounted into the controller.

wk1c.jpg

This is the wireless PC controllers I'll use. You can get these pretty cheap on ebay, no need to buy anything else.

17h7.jpg

Somewhat disassembled controller.

82iy.jpg

And here's the naked PCB, the only thing I need here.

h74e.jpg

Only thing with these PCBs are the soldering. It can be tricky if you're not good with the iron. I'm getting pretty used to this stuff, so...

c0vx.jpg

This is after 45min or so. A lot of wires...

aebf.jpg

Then it's another 45min of putting it all together. The small space doesn't help.

4qto.jpg

Well, it's a mess, I know. But in this situation there's really no point of going for the perfect cable management, you'll never get there, trust me. Just making sure to steer the cables away from the battery holder as much as possible.

sgkt.jpg

The backlid covers all that mess anyway, so =)

8cjr.jpg

Here's the copper joystick shaft and a dust cover from solid walnut.

eowj.jpg

Mounted.

zmuy.jpg

Finsihed joystick pad! The button layout is inspired from NEO GEO, my fav system.

ple3.jpg

Now I just have to make another one :sigh:

I also received some new stuff for the motordriven jalousie shade. Both 12V motors are about 50RPM. The bigger one is more sturdy I guess, but I hope that the little sucker to the left is enough. Would save a lot of space in there later.

tehs.jpg

2lk3.jpg

More coming...

//Quizz

After I had made the second controller, I started on the USB to DC cables.

Here's the original cable...

vf3x.jpg

A little soldering...

bjsm.jpg

And here's now a USB to DC cable.

By now some of you guys might notice that I have a wild passion for coiled/spiral cables. Just can't get enough of them.

n68q.jpg

Here's the cable connected PC-to-controller, on the back of Revelation. You can aslo see that I've installed two USB 3.0 ports and two copper dial knobs for fan control use.

zgeo.jpg

When not in use, the controller are simply slided into the main construction, a stealth design I'm very proud of. The magnets inside automatically slides the pads into position/place with a little push, a little nice touch as well.

h3pc.jpg

And when you want to kick some :), just pull them out like pull drawers.

ifnt.jpg

The joystick shaft are used as pulling knobs...

4na8.jpg

For gaming, you just screw them out, and connect them on top

2l9s.jpg

Another shot.

7vuf.jpg

Been a lot going on lately, but found me some Revelation-time yesterday, and started on the plumbing finally. Now this isn't your typical WC installation. Since there's no copper fittings for piping I decided to try my own DIY solution, combining 16/10 tube compression fittings and 15mm pipes, without welding.

Here's an exploding view of the basic concept. 16/10 fitting + pipe support sleeve + 15mm pipe etc.

iq51.jpg

To fit the pipe support sleeves onto the tube fittings I had to remove some material.

dtyv.jpg

Then I used some silicon for secure sealing. I forced the sleeves onto the fittings with the use of a hammer.

rsbv.jpg

To secure and seal the piping I used one layer silicon / one layer epoxy. No welding needed.

376t.jpg

Pipe secured onto fitting, very DIY...

vfve.jpg

Here's one pipe module finished.

00id.jpg

Some patina's been growing onto the parts over the last couple of months.

gz1s.jpg

Got my hands dirty with some Autosol...

bd72.jpg

It's not Attila, but shiny enough for me. Here's a picture of the pipework and cable management in symbiosis.

o7cy.jpg

SATAs and 24-pin connected. A perfect fit around the pipe is a job well done I guess.

yxzv.jpg

Another part of the loop, close up.

0jsx.jpg

A shot of the loop in whole. It looks really good IMO.

dde8.jpg

Here's the idea:

6atw.jpg

When I was at it, I decided to give the dial knobs a bit of polishing as well.

unt7.jpg

Leak testing tomorrow, fingers crossed :lol::lol::lol:

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quizz_kid    0

Hi guys.

Leaktesting is done, and the results; no leaks... that's good news I guess. The pump(Alphacool DC-LT Ceramic - 12V DC Pro) is not as quiet as I'd hoped for though. Any suggestions there?

I wanted to try the little actuator for the new blind construction and made a small cylinder thingy from brass to secure the cord. The actuator is soooo tiny(3mm shaft), and I was very skeptic of course.

xtzn.jpg

Some epoxy and a suited o-ring, and it's done...

xbz2.jpg

... and this is the first test. The tiny actuator actually works, and I was suprised how smoth the blind moves up&down. But as I though, the blind itself is too small, vertically that is. AND I've noticed some cracks in the wooden segments...

tR_gGpY8WHU

... So I made a new blind. This time in a creamy heavy-duty woven fabric(canvas like). The wooden blind was a nice touch, but for sake of life-span, canvas is the better choice here.

r9ad.jpg

Close up. Will install it tomorrow, and with this fabric, I think I'll face an even smother blind movement.

2xhr.jpg

//Quizz

Finsihed the keyboard mod today. Decided to go with the veneer overlay. Some shots below.

y96.jpg

xkui.jpg

bhnx.jpg

This is the backside, when docked to the storage unit. This is also what the top of Revelation'll look like.

z865.jpg

And inside the storage you'll find mouse and other Rev accessories.

a4cj.jpg

The storage can be used as an optional mousepad, although it's a bit small.

24j5.jpg

I actually manage to silence the pump just by removing the second screw, that is, having it mounted with one support. So no custom box needed, although I 'm pretty temted, just for the sake of it =)

Now, I some of you guys might get disappointed, but I ditched the plumber work and got regular clear tubing instead.

The reason; Although the leak test turned out great, I simply don't trust my epoxy solution. I really don't need a customer calling me up abot leaks, just beacause I had a "visual idea"(lack of knowledge)

Personally, I'm satisfied with decision. The copper fittings really pop combined with clear tubing, and it gives the setup a real clean look.

A big thank you to Andreas from Aquatuning, for helping me out with additional fittings

Here's the new mounting for the pump, one legged support only. Doesn't make a sound =)

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I got this "black" coolant delivered to me yesterday. Yes, the bottle really says "black". I would call that purple, but that's just me I guess??!! Surprisingly, I enjoyed the color, a lot =) Copper and purple, now that's a match!

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Then I picked up this RGB LED strip module that I'll try for lighting inside chassis.

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Module mounted, with LED dimmer.

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I also finished the volume knob...

ow8f.jpg

and secured the eye of the build, a lens protection in copper...

ljq9.jpg

//Quizz

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quizz_kid    0

First, I made a physical SATA-switch, for the two system setup.

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Then I decided to have the fillport on top, and welded a G1/4 fitting into the top mesh.

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I had to remove some material from two of the top fans to make place for the fillport.

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Then I just repainted the mesh.

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After that I painted those blue 6-pin PCI-E connectors copper.

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Received my new flat riser today, a special 20cm with extra 12v boost. The 30cm(15+15cm) riser didn't work(as predicted) and this was my last hope...

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As you can see behind the panel, it's a much better lenght. So I prayed to the evil god...

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... and did a testrun. And YES, it worked!! This is soooo releaving, a fail here would jeopardised the entire project. The SATA switch works as well. Very very happy today!

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Decided to try paint the riser copper.

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I like the result!!

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Sooo... With one big obstacle out of the way, it's onto another one, the bind construction.

My construction with pulleys workes, but not ideally. Due to the tiny amount of space up there, and the size of the pulleys, the blind doesn't go far enough and leaves aprox 7cm of the components uncovered.

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So this is my new idea. Another shaft on top, attached directly onto the motor. This way, the blind can be pulled up further, leaving only aprox 2cm uncoverd. Plus, both sides of the blind will be given an equal amount of preassure.

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Only thing is, To give the motor some space, I'll have to put a hole in one of the side panels of the chassis. Well, I can just cover it with something nice I guess...

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Some more progress:

Made the upper axis shaft for the blind construction. Since it will be visible, I choose copper of course. I will try to test this new construction next week.

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Here are close ups / Left=bearing / Right=motor

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And here's the top piece mesh, repainted.

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4x120mm fans mounted. You can see the fill port in the middle.

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And here's a test fit with the keyboard/storage unit on top.

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Another shot...

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Here's a VGA cable for the projector which I had to mod some, due to some lack of space.

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And here is my "lens-focus-dial-extender" Tech Lego and some distance pieces, all very DIY :D

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Here's how it works, pretty simple...

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Just use the lens protection/screwdriver...

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... and adjust the focus by screwing. Quite proud of the solution :dremel:

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Intstalled the PSU today, the Be Quiet! 550w. Just realized I got lots of cables in this build. Got the PC setup, projector, speaker system, LCD, lighting modules, joystick pads etc... Can't believe I'm actually going to fit everything in there.

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Here's a shot where you can see the two holes for cable management. The mess you see here are cables for some switches and the projector.

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I installed the LEDs. Decided to have two strips for increased lighting, and then use the dim knob for reducing if needed.

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Some strip soldering.

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Here's a quick test using the remote. Red...

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... and blue.

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Then I continued on that new blind contruction. Here are some cover pieces in walnut...

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Outer side panel. The small motor is mounted into the cover piece with epoxy, a perfect fit.

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With everything installed, I attached two cords to the blind. This was actually very tricky, and took me about two days to get it right. First I had to find the right type of cord. Tried several, fishing line, boat rope, regular sewing cotton etc. I realized I couldn't use any elastic cord, due to the weakness of motor I think. When using fishing line, I got sort of a springback from the tension. I finally got it right using this one, a natural string.

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Getting the alignment right took me several tries, but here it is.

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You can see the space I had to work with here. Between fans and shaft there's aprox 2mm of margins.

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The transparent LCD need backlight to work, so I had to place the sprips with presicion. Here's the blind pulled out to its limit, and you can see the light strip sneaking up just in front of the canvas.

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Last shot it with walnut bezel installed. I'm happy I managed to get the blind up as far as I did, covering almost the entire screen. The blind construction has been a real pain, but this is what you get when adding a new element this late in a process.

xpqz.jpg

Now I have to find and install some limit switches for the blind...

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quizz_kid    0

Well, seems like the Feser Black UV is pretty sad when it comes to UV reaction. I thereby decided to ditch the UV idea. Well well...

But I have an update:

First, I made some minor adjustments in the loop layout. Removed one of the res mounts, moved the res a bit more to the right. This was to get the fillport centered.

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Here's another shot. As you can see I've drained the loop. Will make a refill when everything assebled.

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A 2mm sheet of glass...

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And here's the transparent LCD, finally ready to be mounted inside the chassis.

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A good fit I suppose. You can see the PCB of the LCD touching the blind construction. No margins, what so ever =)

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Short flat cable, HDMI.

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A pretty good fit there as well.

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Then finally, I could put the two chassis segments together and see the resluts of 1000+ hrs.

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The backside, well, need some serious cable management. There's cables EVERYWHERE, don't know where to start really =) Give me few more day...

o30s.jpg

Until then, here's some quick tests playing with the RGB strip.

Green

c0qh.jpg

Purle

wzjw.jpg

//Quizz

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quizz_kid    0

Over 1000 hrs went into this machine. Had a lot of setbacks in the end, but I guess it was worth it.

Well, here are finals... Hope you'll enjoy!

R-Kaid-Revelation

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Video demonstration(Music credits: Turrican scores performed and supported by Chris Huelsbeck)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Da8c2uauncA

Making of video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEdmc-Pgw1M

//Quizz

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