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Found 12 results

  1. I have the Quickfire TK (red) and I love it (the thin apple keyboards had convinced me I was mildly dyslexic for a few years, switched to a mech keyboard and suddenly my wpm almost doubled), but I've been having an issue since I started working on my desktop more often. I'll plug in the keyboard and it lights up and works fine for a while, but will suddenly cease sending input to the computer, seemingly at random. The lights will stay on, but none of the keys register with the computer. If I unplug the keyboard and plug it back in again, it works fine, so it's not a crazy issue, just an inconvenience. Is there a driver that I haven't found that I need? Has anyone else had this issue? If I'm not providing enough info on my situation I can try to clarify further. Thanks guys!
  2. keboard broken help

    After unplugging my keyboard and plugging it back in the backlight won't turn off and no keys work i am currently using on screen keyboard sry for spelling wrong please help.
  3. Hi guys, I purchased my new CM Storm Octane Gaming Gear Combo, i.e, Keyboard and Mouse. I thought about trying the new awesome keyboard and mouse, so I started a game. The mouse works really well. But when I try to move the character using the keyboard by holding the "W" key, the character moves as if I was pressing the key repeatedly and not holding it. I thought it might be a game problem but when I tried it with my old keyboard, it worked. So, does anybody know how to solve it or has any other person faced this problem before? It's not just W key, it happens with all other keys.
  4. Hi guys, I've just bought a Quick Fire XTi keybord and I've updated the Firmware. When I try to save a LED profile I can't set the light for the ESC button. The button's LED works, because it works with any other LED features, but not in the LED profile :/
  5. Hello, I bought the mouse and keyboard combination about a week ago. I only got 1 problem. The mouse isn't working. The lights and stuff work but it doesn't show a cursor in windows. When i first plugged the mouse in my computer it worked for like half a second, but then it stopped working. So i try a another pc and there it dit the same thing. A day later i booted my pc up and the mouse worked. The i switched the mouse to the motherboard USB and then it didn't work anymore. Since then i haven't got it working. I got windows 10. Please help me! Sorry for my bad grammar, i'm dutch...
  6. Hello everyone, I noticed that when using the "Default Profile" the led colors of the mouse change with each DPI setting change (Off, Red, Green, Blue). However when setting up my own custom profiles, I cannot duplicate this effect (I seem to only get 1 led color setting that applies to all DPI levels), so I was wondering if this is even possible or if I'm just using the software incorrectly. Any ideas are appreciated thank you for reading. -I'm using the Recon with the most up to date software.
  7. hello ive owned my CM storm sirus 5.1 headset now for about 8 months ive never has any problems and has worked since the day i got them. basically the problem is if i play GMOD, Rocket league or ARK: survival evolved which are games very dependent on your ability to talk with people, but anyway what happens is when i hit the push to talk key my game on all three of the games above will just freeze for 10-30 seconds then it will recover and would have completely ruined the game for me. ive had this problem i think since i got windows 10 (I THINK) i have looked everywhere for a fix nobody in the entire gaming community is willing to give me the time of day to help me fix this. this is the last forum i can think of, the company of this headset the thing is ive seen so many other people with this problem on these exact games but nobody has posted a fix. there has to be a fix somewhere because something triggered this i just dont have a clue what. im just getting sick to death of it and i scraped up all the money i could for this headset and i cant afford to go out and just buy a new headset. so please if anybody out there know a fix i beg of you link me or let me know ;(
  8. Time To Take 10 Keyless Further

    I found my way to the cooler master site in hopes they would be one of those awesome companies that still have a suggestion area and by Odin's beard there's a link on the main page to the forums that serve as just that. So i signed up and now it's time to do my part. I apologize for the spelling and grammar you're about to experience. I'm about 3 hours past when i should've went to sleep because of Newegg (is there a medical term for Newegg spec +/- price comparisons that keep you up at night? There should be. ONCD or something.) Anyways Cooler Master here is my conundrum. I am in the market for a keyboard, and i was so interested in the Storm series that i immediately decided i need to go 10 keyless. And my wallet is just yearning to give you my money. But I can't. Initially i saw the Quickfire for around $90 with mx browns and i was like, "yup, that's the one." Then I saw the Rapid-i with the programmable lighting for each button, which for most people wouldn't matter, but i am a console convert still trying to learn the standard keys on a keyboard in shooters. The shift is always easy to find, but i constantly forget which button is the melee. So I love that feature for my specific situation. But that $130 price bracket is tough. The Corsair K70 is at about $120 right now,, with one additional USB for the mouse or headset + voice control scroll wheel. The Razer Black Widow Stealth Edition Expert is $100 with 3.5 mm jacks and a mouse side usb w/o programmable lighting. The K70 being full sized hurts it for me, and I visually dislike the key design on all Razers so incredibly much. I've used a friends extensively, and I find the font on the shift and enter keys distracting. Even though i don't look at the keyboard 97% of the time while typing, i'm constantly seeing those funky letters out of the corner of my eye and they cause me to pause before i use them. So this is what i need out of a CM Storm TKless. It needs to have a side usb for the mouse. and it needs to have volume jacks. IT WOULD BE ACCEPTABLE to add an inch back on the width of the keyboard for those features to be there! Atleast the side USB for the mouse. If the Rapid-I had both of those I'd be done shopping. And unfortunately, without them i may have to settle for a fullsized keyboard that i don't want. I think the CM Quickfire Keyboards are the best looking keyboards within $50+ of their price range.And it kills me to be buying something else. If CM dropped a press release saying they would be launching a Quickfire with those features in September i would wait willingly. So please. Remove the ten key, replace it with goodies. A volume wheel for the headset would also save me so much fumbling in the dark.
  9. I need Spares

    I have had my CM Storm Trigger (red) for ages and i love it so much, the micro USB port for the power has warn away so i cant use the keyboard. I have been spending 3 hours looking online for a replacement Chip that connects to the inside of my keyboard i wish to buy it as it is a shame to throw £89.99 worth of kit away just because a port faded away. Does anyone know why i cant find an email adress for Coolermaster? Im looking to buy the chip so i can slot it back in and keep playing. Please somone help i really hate using this microsoft basic keyboard? Info on the Chip (it detatches off btw, once keyboard is open) TRIGGER DB_HUB_V3.0_20110810
  10. Problem with CM Storm Havoc

    Sorry for my bad english,i'am brazilian...so my problem is,my havoc is brand new,when i'am plugged into my pc for the first time the "DPI Lower" button dont light on when the RED color is selected,and in other colors its stay diferent from the other leds in the mouse,but when the blue or the green color is selected,the led stay normal,the pictures bellow show the problem... The red color is selected but the DPI Button stay OFF... The Yellow color is selected,but the DPI button stay green...
  11. Novatouch is Cooler Master's flagship keyboard model, featuring Japanese-made Hybrid Capacitive Switches (also known as electrostatic capacitive switches. More on these later!) instead of Cherry switches or knockoff Cherry switches. I will be discussing some of the unique aspects of the Novatouch as I get to them in my pictures, so I hope you enjoy it! The Novatouch's box has a very different texture than most packaging out there. It's an embossed crosshatch pattern that feels really nice to the touch and gives it a sleek, sophisticated look. The latch that holds the Novatouch's box together isn't a paper insert, but rather a set of magnets that smoothly latches the top of the box closed. Front of the box Side of the box Back of the box Features on the back The Novatouch feature list includes some firsts in the keyboard industry! Specifically, the Novatouch is the first Electrostatic Capacitive Switch keyboard to feature Cherry MX keycap compatibility. Traditionally, electrostatic switches have had very poor keycap compatibility and selection due to the limited number of keyboards that use the switch type, and the typical price range that the keyboards are in (often over 200 USD!), since electrostatic switches are usually only used in the very high end keyboard market (higher end than Cherry MX usually). By allowing for Cherry MX compatibility, the Novatouch is able to use the high end electrostatic switch while having a huge selection of keycaps to be used. (more on this later on!) The other point to note is that the Novatouch is the first electrostatic capacitive switch keyboard to have n-key rollover and anti-ghosting, making it a viable option for gaming, since you can press every single key on the keyboard at once and still have it register, not that anybody uses that many keys simultaneously, I hope And now for the general unboxing portion: The accessories include a 90 degree USB cable, a wire key puller, and O-rings. In my opinion, the choice of a 90 degree USB cable is questionable, since I usually just want the cable to go straight out the back of the keyboard, but the cable is nicely braided with a soft cloth braid, and it is gold plated for corrosion resistance, especially if you live in a humid place! I am a fan of the wire-type key puller versus the typical plastic one, because of the way it latches onto keys. I find it to feel nicer to split the wire, push it so the wire goes under the key, turn it 45 degrees, and pull it out. With a plastic key puller, you just push down on the key, which depresses the key and bends the plastic in the key until it pops over the bottom edge of the key, and then you can pull it out. I always feel like it'll affect the finish of the key that way if I pull too often, but I never really had that happen It's mostly a feel thing! The o-rings can serve to dampen the noise between the keycap and the keystem, but my opinion is that the keycaps are mounted pretty tightly onto the stem already, so there isn't much of a difference at all. There is a very slight sound difference, but I feel like the feeling of the keys is the same. YMMV though Here are some different angles of the keyboard: One thing to note that many people might not be so happy about, but there is no indicator light for the caps lock key (the scroll lock key is also missing it), unfortunately . I never use caps lock, but it's nice to be able to tell if it's on or not so I won't have to test a couple keys first before typing messages to people. The CM Storm logo The CM Storm logo is only in one spot when the keyboard is placed flat on a table-- the back left side. The hidden logo really adds to the minimalist look that the Novatouch is going for, and is a really big contrast to all the "gaming" keyboards released these days that usually end up looking too over the top for me. I prize minimalism in my computer stuff In the close-up shots you can get an idea of the texture of the body versus the keys. The body is a coated plastic that has a soft-touch texture that is really smooth and slightly grippy. It's a bit of a finger-print magnet, but the fingerprints wipe off easily! The keys have a rough texture and I believe are made from ABS plastic. Based on the feeling, the lettering is lasered and infilled, meaning that the keycaps are lasered to create a bit of a dip where the lettering is supposed to be and then material is injected onto these dips to fill in the color. These purple key stems are the star of the show! They make the Novatouch truly unique in the keyboard market, since there is nothing else like it in the market! The little "+" portion in the middle of the stem is the mount that Cherry MX keycaps use, and the circle portion around it is similar in shape to the traditional electrostatic capacitive switch keystem. The Novatouch is only compatible with Cherry MX keycaps, but there are so many more Cherry MX caps than there are electrostatic switch keycaps that this isn't a problem at all. While the purple key stem is a truly unique part of the Novatouch, the other most important point is the switch that the Novatouch uses. Everyone seems to be used to the Cherry MX switch types now, whether its black, red, brown, clear, blue, green, etc., since gaming companies have utilized them for all of their higher end keyboards, but not many companies use the electrostatic capacitive switch. Electrostatic capacitive switches are constructed using a rubber membrane along with a spring, so in a way, the feeling is somewhat similar to a rubber dome, but only in the positive aspects of rubber dome! A lot of people that start using mechanical keyboards mention that mechanical switches are really loud, really harsh sounding, and they have a really harsh bottom-out feeling, since there is no cushion at the bottom. The Novatouch's switches are quieter than typical Cherry MX switches, replacing the plastic-on-plastic snap sound that you hear when you bottom out a cherry switch with a sort of thud sound that's much lower pitched and is much more pleasant sounding, leading to an extremely satisfying sound of "thock thock thock" while typing. The bottom-out feel is nicely cushioned, but it's in no way mushy like a typical rubber dome. Rubber domes also need to be bottomed out in order for the key to sense that it is being depressed, but the Novatouch's switches activate at a middle point (2.0 mm depressed), similar to Cherry MX. There is no need to bottom out the Novatouch's keys, but I enjoy the sound a lot so I do pretty much all the time. Some keyboard enthusiasts will say that bottoming out is really bad, but I think it's all personal choice . There is a certain level of tactility the Novatouch's switches have. It's more pronounced than the small bump on the Cherry Brown switch, and it's not quite like the "snap" sound and feel of the Cherry Blue switch. I think the best way to think of it would be to combine the feeling of a linear switch like a Cherry Red or Cherry Black switch with the smooth hump of a rubber dome-- but not just any rubber dome-- the smoothest feeling one ever. This smoothness and the light 45g actuation force allows me type my fastest on the Novatouch - just a hair faster than I type on Cherry MX Blue keyboards like the Rapid-i I have. It's a ton quieter too! Basically, the Novatouch offers a switch that's not like most of the others out there. It is smooth, quiet, and just has a really premium feel to it. Finally, I wanted to share one last picture for now: I bought a set of blank white PBT plastic keycaps that I find to be a great fit for the Novatouch's minimalist look. Of course, it takes a while to get used to not having any punctuation marks on the keyboard, but I'm adjusting pretty well, I think. I am hoping to do some mods on the keyboard, but I have to get some tools first! Hope you enjoyed this, and please feel free to ask if you have any questions about the Novatouch keyboard.
  12. Hi, there are a few things I would like to know for cpu cooling. I am looking for a cpu cooler that will be good for overclocking, not TOO noisy, but effective. People have told me to get V8 GTS, and the Seidons (except the 240m). I would like to know which of em' is the best for ASUS P8P67-m pro, which for overclocking, which for normal gaming and if they all fit. My gear is: ASUS P8P67-m pro CM STORM Enforcer MSI GTX 760 OC 4GB (on the top PCI) CM V1000 (a friend bought me) DDR3 Kingston 4GB RAM x2 (2nd and 4th slots from the left of the mobo) I can change the location of the ram and gpu if needed. (ofc only if it will work the same or better)