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Found 5 results

  1. Hi all, Recently bought a Hyper Evo 212 to re-vamp my cooling on my PC, along with some maintenance. Removed the existing fan and backplate, then went to mount the new Evo 212's backplate with the screws and hex nuts provided. One screw failed quickly when threading through its hex nut, and broke off when applying simple wrist-tightening. Another was filed flat on one side, and is unable to be threaded through the hex nuts (and certainly won't try to force it, when the first screw was threaded fine and broke anyways). I don't want these parts to potentially damage my board from breaking during installation, so wondering whether to even replace or find a different cooler. Went through support the other day for a ticket, but thinking in advance now if the CS for Cooler Master is quick and efficient, or if should just call it quits? Just sent last night, of course, but thinking mostly that I don't have the luxury to wait around for a resolution, if any/protracted. The other option is to jump ahead, purchase another brand and then return this for a refund for the faulty/low quality parts in this particular kit. Is CS quick to respond typically, or am I better off seeking another cooler/brand? What would you all suggest, those that have dealt with Cooler Master CS and parts, before? Whats the general experience?
  2. Hi everyone! I hope you are staying safe and healthy Until today, I was using my B700 V2 (RS-700-ACAB-B1) to power up the following system: Intel Xeon E3-1245 v2 (close to i7-3770) 16Gb HyperX Fury DDR3 1600MHz Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 G1 Some Asus B75 motherboard 3 HDDs, 1 SSD Things were rather smooth, I had nothing to complain about, until I tried to upgrade to GTX 1080 Ti GameRock by Palit The system started, but there was no video signal from the video card. I was able to get into the BIOS once after I switched off all my SATA devices, so I tried to re-plug the video card, check if I connected it properly - all in vain. When I tried to re-plug my SATA devices and use my CPU's graphics to get into the OS, I was able to do it but the 1080 Ti was not showing in the device manager. I tried plugging the video card into my friend's PC with a be quiet! Pure Power 9 700W PSU and it did work. I also tried to plug it into another friend's PC with a be quiet Dark Power Pro 850W PSU and it did work, while another 1080 Ti (from MSI this time) did not work at my end for some reason. Do you guys think I should change my PSU as it's insufficient for such a build (I know it's not balanced but I can't afford to swap the system completely at once) and I should change it? I was sure that B700 v2 will be enough to power up a 1080 Ti. Please let me know your thoughts and if there are any reasonably priced PSU I should swap my B700 v2 for - I'd be glad to know your opinion Thanks!
  3. Good night everyone, I know it's kinda stupid, but it's just like a last resource, at least to know if there aren't possibilities to change the socket. I'm working for a shop in my town, and like the owner had to pay me for some works and had to make a wholesale purchase, I told him to buy me the ML240L instead of giving me the money, then I could be able to build a PC for my girlfriend. I was waiting like 2 weeks, yesterday he talked to the shop and he bought it, and today it arrived, but he made a wrong order, and I got the ML240 RGB TR4. It's my fault for opening the box before looking the name of the box, thinking that the ML240 RGB TR4 was an upgraded version that added support for this socket, until I watched the socket and the content. This shop doesn't allow refunds if it's open, so I only can find alternatives, like know if there's a way to change it manually with another adapter like the ML240L one keeping the liquid cooling or sell it.
  4. Does the NR600 fit a 180mm psu? It's kinda weird. Officially in the site, it says only up to 160mm, but EU site says 180mm. Then multiple reviewers say up to 180mm but hardwarecanucks say 160mm. Tomshardware said they tested with 180mm psus and its fine, but they have no pics, so I dont wanna take their word for it. Guru3D built it with a Seasonic Prime Titatnium Ultra that has 170mm length, but has no image for it so I don't know what clearance it has. PCPartpicker has barely anyone with the NR600 for me to take a look at for reference. I have the ol' Corsair RM850x. It's from my last build that Im using in my current build and I'm currently on a P350x. I am wanting to switch to a more mesh'd case, kinda want something like the Meshify C, but a bit longer, but not as long as the S2...so basically something in-between. My reason for switching is primarily for airflow(and somewhat minimalistic design), and I want something a bit longer than the Meshify C to support a 300mm GPU and can still fit a 360 rad, and if possible a push-pull setup, but not too long like the S2 because I don't want so much wasted space. The dimensions of the NR600 seems to be near-perfect in dimensions, and it seems my only problem specs-wise is the PSU clearance. If you have any cases recommended that's similar to what I want, I would appreciate it. Right now, the only other thing that comes to mind is the P400A(which isn't available where I am yet, and Science Studio reviewed it had problems), and the Enthoo Pro M TG. Also, do you think they'd release something similar to the NR600 but with higher quality material? Apparently, the NR600 has some low quality build.
  5. So I was wondering if it would be a bad idea for me to leave me keyboard plugged in and have the backlight on overnight. It's nice to look at while laying in bed, but I'm afraid this may have a large impact on the life span of my keyboard, so for now I just unplug it at night. Is it okay to keep on overnight? In love with this keyboard though <3