Anthony Scheib

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About Anthony Scheib

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  1. Your temps are totally normal for a haswell CPU 4770's run hot..the IHS is not soldered to the cpu die so there is thermal paste between the actual CPU die and the IHS that protects it then more paste between the IHS and the coldplate/pump
  2. Actually it should be around 6500-7000rpm. From what i know the pump should get 12v at all times. Mine is about a year old and has been running at 6900-7000 rpm's save the CPU PWM for the fans and give the pump 12v
  3. If ir is whining like you say tell CM to send you a new unit with return postage so you can return it in the new units box since you probably do not want to put on a sucky stock cooler while you wait for the new unit to arrive. I have the CM nepton 140xl that has the same identical pump and it is whisper quiet with no little rattle noises or whine of any kind. When you do receive your replacement unit make sure you plug in the pump on a running system so you can listen to the pump by itself outside the case for about 30min to a hour with a full 12v since it is supposed to run at 12v. If they do send you a full unit with return postage even if you have to put it on a credit card for them to do it then they refund you when they receive faulty unit I suggest if you have the room to try running 4 fans in push pull. this configuration will allow lower fan speeds and give you great cooling at lower quieter fan noise. Mine with it hooked to my 4 + year old p67-ud4-b3 motherboards CPU fan header on silent runs my 2 Push Pull Jetflo's at 700 rpms at idle and is inaudible, under load they run at 1000-1100rpms and are very quiet. I just tested it at 4690mhz @ 1.335v at 32c ambient temp and my idle temp is 35C and 15 minutes of intel burn test on lotsa memory tested is 66C with the fans running at 1100rpms, truly amazing. After stopping the load test my idle temps went back to 33c in 2 seconds flat then 32c another second after that. fantastic performance. But with a 140mm radiator that is 38mm thick I have about as much fin area as a 240mm 23-15mm thick radiator does. I have nothing but good things to say about the Nepton series pump assy and the sheer amount of micro fins on the copper cold plate, If I recall correctly frosty tech stated it had more micro fins than the apogee and other DIY home water cooling systems.
  4. Peleg Wasserman, First off I want to compliment you on your Cooler Master HAF XM case it is a darn shame it was discontinued because it is a absolutely fantastically awesome super duper case. Sorry but I love the HAF XM cases and not the windowed versions. I am sporting a HAH 922 case that is so old it does not even have USB 3.0 ports in the front and i would almost give a arm and a leg for a reasonably priced HAF XM case to move my 4966mhz i7-2600K rig into. Anyway lets get to the point you would probably be better off removing your top 200mm fan and installing the other 140mm jetrflow it the top of your case and then do yourself a favor and switch the twin 140 jetflows to intake. It will perform bettere because it is always pushing the coolest air possible through the 280mm radiator. If you are worried about it increasing the internal ambient case temps just don't worry about it trust me. So much air goes through the radiator but for some reason the air temps of the air coming out from the radiator is very cools maybe 3 degrees higher then ambient even with your CPU at full load. For example My 2600k is built on 32nm a larger process then your 4790k's 22nm process. On top of that my IHS/ integrated heat sink is soldered to the CPU die itself on my 2600k so it transfers all my heat very quickly to the copper coldplates micro fins to the coolant in my Nepoton 140XL's radiator and the temperature of the air coming through my radiator seems the same all the time ,even under full load for 10-20min strait the air temperature always feels the same with the 140mm Jetflo's at 1000-1100 rpms. Also it will allow the 200mm fan you are removing to be used on your side panel as a intake or exhaust for you graphics card/cards depending on what brand and type you have since it can make a big difference setting your side panel fan as a exhaust or intake. EXAMPLE: I have 2 120mm Cougar Vortex fans in my side panel as intakes with SLI'ed 2X EVGA GTX 770 CLassified ACX cooled cards. The cards are not the blower type they are open coled cards with 2 92mm fans on each card blowing down onto the 6 heat pipe fin array that has fins running horizontally across the card " so the fins are running from motherboard to side panel not from rear of case to front of case, that would be lengthwise" Anyway LOADED so much heat from the cards gets blow out from the Graphics cards towards the side panel and the 2x 120mm intake fans and towards the motherboard. Well believe it or not this caused my cards to run a good 20c hotter then they should have been running since the air pressure from the 120mm side panel intake was fighting the heat escaping from the cards towards the side panel = bad. Switching the side panel 120mm fans to exhaust cooled my cards a good 20-25C compared to the 120mm fans as intakes. With the 120mm fans and the graphics cards fin desin and it own fans were fighting each other making a dead spot of air that hardly moved leading to much higher than normal temperatures. So a word from the wise check your Graphics card/cards fin configuration and if they run lengthwise along the length of the card/cards then intake is your best bet. If the fins run across card/cards like my ACX cooled GTX 770 classifieds then side panel exhaust is the way to go. Also this is just personal preference but besides the front 200mm fan I would replace every 200mm fan with 2 140mm PWM fans of your choosing, 2 140mm fans move much more air then a single slow 200mm fan with very low noise output. Also you have more flexibility on air movement and placement. I am done now and I am still envious of your case so enjoy it buddy. Don't get me wrong, when I Built my 2600k rig just over 4 years ago 69$ for my HAF 922 could not be beat and i was tight on money. I am usually allowed one big upgrade a year. last year was replacing my SLI'ed EVGA Superclocked GTX 560 Ti's with 2 EVGA GTX 770 4gb Classified cards in SLI. This year was upgrading my Corsair H50 AIO with the CM 140XL, A 240GB 500+MBS SSD to replace my 128GB 250MBS SSD that was full .......... But the best was saved fore last I got a new LG 34UM95 34" 21/9 3440x1440 resolution super wide monitor that is the same width as my 37" vizio HDTV! Just a lot shorter with a tom more pixels.
  5. Nanco I would get a different one from where you bought it or do the RMA process. I have my pump hooked up to a full 12v so it is running at around 7000 rpms and that is what it is supposed to run at. In a previous post I stated I ran my Nepton 140xl that has the same pump out of the case for a hour so I could clearly hear the pump and check for unlikely leaks and noises and mine was quiet as a mouse.The only thing I do not like about the fans is the shape, they are round on the outside and do not seal up with the radiator. I fixed that on both sides of my 140xl with some small strips of gorilla tape that I used to seal the fans to the radiator so every once of air the fans produce get pushed and pulled through my radiator and I am not losing 5-15% of the air with the fans on low speed in particular from air leaking from the contact point of the fans and radiator. I dida clean job installing the Monkey tape too and it is gloss black like the cooler so ..Oh sorry playing around If you do RMA it with Coolermaster make sure you write down your serial # to make sure they do not send back the same unit you return or get themto send you out a new unit with a return label. I have my pump hooked to the 12v PWR fan header and the fans on my CPU fan header with the splitter on my 4 year old Gigabyte P67-UD4-B3 motherboard with the CPU fan set on normal with my 2600k running at 4966mhz @ 1.424 volts and my temps do not go above 67c on my hottest core that is 8-10c hotter than 2 other cores and 2c hotter then the remaining core. the fans do get up to 1400rpms once the temps rises and is a little noisey but it is rare that it gets loaded to 100%. at idle they run at 680 rpms and are inaudible and I can hear my Cougar Vortex 120mm PWM fans running at 80% but not the jetflo 140's at 680rpms. Now gaming at say a 50% CPU load with 2 EVGA GTX 770 4gb cards in sli pushing a 34" LG UM95 3440-1440 IPS panel they might get up to 8-900rpms but are still very quiet. I plan on downclocking to 4500mhz since 4.9ghz+ is not needed and I am just wasting electricity since I can run at 4.5 at 1.3v and plan on switching the CPU fan header to silent to see the RPM;'s and temps I get then. But I am sure it will not break 60c with such low voltage. Plus Sandy Bridge chips have the same gaming power as IVY and Haswell within 1-3% in gaming so I plan on keeping this rig another 4 years since performance is not much better enough by a longshot to upgrade from my 2600k Plus it is a lot easier to keep cool then ivy and haswell. Also with DX12 around the corner and its fantastic overhead reductions any Mainstream CPU from Sandy to Haswell will last a long long time. DX12 will even take 2 cards in SLI or crossfire and kinda treat them like one big card with split frame rendering so each card will only use half the memory since it is only rendering half the screen so 2 4gb cards will be like a 8gb card. Compared to what we have now with alternating frame rendering where each card takes turns rendering the whole screen so they both have to use the same amount of memory. Also Nvidia announce they will be supporting DX12 with cards all the way back to fermi so my 770s will support DX12!! along with alot of other peoples cards which is great since I thought I was going to have to sell my cards for DX12 cards.
  6. Hate to say it but it looks like another RMA is in order. This time see if you can get them to send out the replacement unit 1st because it is possible you may have received your original one back if I recall correctly that it had the same noise before and since this will be the second RMA. Even if you have to give a CC number so they can make sure they receive the defective unit back. Plus since you also have a fan noise you can make sure you have 2 quiet fans and then send back the defective pump and fans. Then you will be a happy camper with quiet fans and a quiet pump. I do not know if they will do it but after 2 RMA they really should be thinking hard about customer satisfaction or they are going to get bad reviews from you and everyone else who receives noisey NEW parts.
  7. Do you have a system you can hook up the fans and pump to without installing the unit? If so I recommend you let the pump run outside the case for a good hour at least maybe even overnight without the fans making any noise and see if the pump noise subsides. Also orient the radiator in different positions while the pumo is running to see if it is picking up any air. I know my system had a bit of air in the system because i could hear it when i shook the radiator and spun it around during inspection before installation. Plus I always run any AIO system for at least 1o minutes to check for leaks and noises. Mine was very quiet outside the case running at the recommended full 12v and 7000+ or - 1-200 rpms. Good luck and let me know how the pump sounds after long run outside the case....if it is still ticking I would RMA it again. I got a nice a quiet one and just FYI I run my system 24/7 and have not shut down the system for longer then the few hours it took me to install the new 140XL. My dinky Corsair H50 I had cooling my 2600k for 4 years never took a break for 35,040 hours and did a admirable job for the 1st 2 years with 2 Enermax Magma push pull fans then the second 2 years I used 2 Cougar Vortex push pull fans. But the last year I must have had corrosion in the micro fins and radiator reducing it's cooling ability since the cold plate is copper and the radiator is aluminum. Mixingg those 2 metals and then having the coolant loose its anti corrosion ability from age can cause corrosion bad.
  8. I apologize for not reading your post before I blabbed about my rig I still love:) I had no coil whine @ all and I ran my pump on my 140xl's outside the case for a good 20 minutes checking for leaks and noises before I uninstalled my MB since the mounting studs are too long to install it through the too small cutout on my HAF922 MotherBoard mounting tray. Also my pump runs between 7030 and 7100rpms according to the sensor which seems correct according to others with a full 12v to the pump it is supposed to run at 7k rpms. Since my system is on and Oc'ed 24/7 I do not plan on using the pump with variable speed since it is supposed to run @ this speed and is lubricated all the time I would think. Plus my Corsair H50's pump ran non stop for 4 years I'm not worried especially with all of Intels safety features if it fails it will just lock or shutdown.....not something I ever want to happen but the system would survive .
  9. What CPU did you have it on previously and what kind of load temps did you have? Also I just read a review and I do not believe it will work on a 1150/z97 motherboard, Plus with all the new really good AIO cooling solutions that have been released since 2009 I just do not think it is worth it to burn a extra 70 watts on the TEC that is integrated into the CM V10. Also I have no Idea how reliable they are......Cool Idea when it came out but If it was a good one they would be still making it. Get a Cooler Master nepton 140xl or 280, I have a 140xl on my 2600k and it does a fantastic job of cooling...whatever you plan on getting please let me know and I will be able to point you in the right direction. Especially since you are using the HAFx again, this way we can see what will mount correctly in your case. I think the 140xl will fit on the rear IO 140mm fan slot. I am using a HAF922 case and I had to mount one of the 140mm fans externally on the top of the case. Its a Big Cooler
  10. I just installed a 140XL in my H922 to replace my 4 year old h50 with push pull cougar vortex PWM fans to cool my i7 2600k. I used Antec Nano Diamond Formula 7 TIM since it has such great customer reviews with some people saying a 20-30c drop in temps...I find that unbelievable and they probably had mismounted coolers to starts with, nost were 5-10c drops in temp. I plan on replacing the TIM on both of my SLI'ed EVGA GTX770 4gb Classified cards I had to install it in the roof of my case with one fan on the outside of the case, not pretty but performance is outstanding. As for my CPU temperature drop with my new 140XL.....my idle temps right now with my 2600k @4915mhz @1.440V is 27c on core #1 "my hottest core" and 21C on core 0 "my coolest core" and load temps around on my hottest core after 30min of intel burntest V2 is 62c with a ambient temp of 17c. I am very happy since my little wimpy H50 would be kissing 70c @ a much lower 4500mhz @1.340V at a lower ambient temp! So I very very pleased with the performance of the 140XL..it is awesome compared to the little H50 that wanted to, but did serve me well over the last 4 years. Will let you all know how replacing the tim on my 770's works out.
  11. I will try as soon as possible but weather here has been really bad the last 2 days and night's with lots of freezing rain and some snow mixed in and I am picking up a new male Mantle Great Dane puppy tonight to be friends with our 4 year old female harlequin Dane Rosie right before it starts to snow again from around 11pm tonight to 5pm thursday with possibly a foot of snow possible. On top of that today I have to cut a little more firewood, split it and worst of all fix my snow blower that I hope just threw the belt 3 days ago...Grrrr I too and very anxious to see what kind of temperature drops I get over the stock paste on the EVGA Classified cards, it always seems like every graphics card company slops on way too much TIM. Also another great thing about the formula 7 is it is non conductive and does not need a break in period, lots of transistors around the GPU die's and would hate to short out a card from TIM like arctic silver or something.
  12. Yep Paul I just installed a 140XL on my baby to replace it's 4 year old Corsair H50 AIO that had 2 Cougar Vortex fans and did a good job cooling my i7 2600k @ 4.5-4.75ghz 24/7 under 70c on my GAP67-UD4-B3 MB depending on the ambient temp,that is usually between 5-25c but after 4 years it had to go, not worth the chance of a pump failure and the fact I know It was loosing its cooling capability...probably from a combination of a buildup of corrosion on the micro fins, inside the rad itself and the fact I wanted a higher capacity cooler since I know my 2600k can run at 5.1ghz @ 1.5 v and the 140xl fit the bill perfectly. I was glad it came with no pre installed thermal paste since I wanted to try Antec's new Diamond Formula 7 that I have seen rave reviews on it with a lot of customers claiming a 20-30c drop in temps with the same heatsinks/Cooling solutions but most were around 5-10c drop and I think the 30C drops were really bad TIM application or a mis-mounted cooler. I will update the temperature change on both of my EVGA GTX 770 Classified ACX 4gb SLI'ed cards once I change the the Stock TIM out for the Diamond Formula 7. As for my CPU temperature drop with my new 140XL.....my idle temps right now with my 2600k @4915mhz @1.440V is 27c on core #1 "my hottest core" and 21C on core 0 "my coolest core" and load temps around on my hottest core after 30min of intel burntest V2 is 62c with a ambient temp of 17c. I am very happy since my little wimpy H50 would be kissing 70c @ a much lower 4500mhz @1.340V at a lower ambient temp! So I very very pleased with the performance of the 140XL..it is awesome compared to the little H50 that wanted to, but did serve me well over the last 4 years. As for my pump speeds, they are at between 7030-7100rpm's but very quiet. I am a happy customer as the install besides partially having to remove my MB was a tool less piece of cake:)