Jorrit Scharloo

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About Jorrit Scharloo

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  1. Photoshoot! Forgot to attach the window photo's: Thanks to my sponsors!
  2. Laser cutting & sleeving Meanwhile MDPC has delivered some extra sleeving. But this was too thick. I still have some glass fibre insulation left to use for this cable. In the picture below it's almost finished. Only the connector needs to be placed. All cables done! I've produced a new laserbatch for the coverings. The top and bottom outside panels are glued together. The bottom outside panel will be build as follows: Two panels are glued together by a third panel due to the limited working envelope of the laser cutter. This extra panel also holds the acrylic panel in place. The two panels need some hand milled pockets to place the magnets. In the below picture the panels are placed (not glued) on top of each other. As you can see in the pictures below there still needs some sanding to be done. Some brown laser marks are still visible. After sanding I glued the panels together. Also lightly sanded and cleaned the neodynium magnets in preparation for glueing with a hot glue gun. The latter was not a good idea though ... I found out after fixating the magnets in the side walls. Hot glue does not fixate well on the (Ni-Cu-Ni) coating. After removing and placing the side panels several times the magnets came loose! Besides, I did not read the users manual, which states: Do not heat neodynium magnets! (actual max working temperature <60 degrees Celcius) I'm happy the magnets are still strong. Removing the hot glue, cleaning the wood and fixate now with epoxy glue. After hardening the magnets are finally fixated well. OK, let's go on with the placement of the panels; a few pockets in the panels needs to be made to accomodate for the magnets. (The side walls already have recessed pockets, since the outside was CNC milled.) The front a back wall of the casing also need some extra recessed pockets. So printing a 1:1 scale production drawing and cut to size. Placed the paper on the back wall. The top panel is already glued and the recessed pockets are milled by hand. A small error in the top left corner, but not in sight (it's on the inside). The DW logo is not a watermark, but real engraving lines on the wooden surface. Lasered the window, painted it et voila! Till next time! Thanks to my sponsors!
  3. Cable Connector My last post progress was the preparation for the cable connector. In this post the cable connector will be moved into place. So first cables through the first part. Then placing the second part with help from the wooden dowels. Preliminary assembly of the cable connector. The first bolt keeps the two sides together. The remaining three bolts are used for the strain relief. Moving the cable connector into place. Moving the cables from the connector into place. Three different sleevings in a row: 1) glass silk insulation sleeve (silver, very smooth and dense, but tendency to fluff) for the fans and switches, 2) NZXT sleeving, made of PET (open structure, rigid) for the motherboard pins and 3) BitFenix sleeving, made of cotton (?) (coarse and dense structure, slight tendency to fluff) for the 24 + 4 pin cables. Gently adjusting each cable. When finished, tightened the three remaining bolts for the strain relief. PSU void is quite full. Thanks to my sponsors!
  4. 24+4 ATX The cables at the left side of the housing are placed. First the presleeved cables are partially disassembled to put these through the cable guides. After an evening fiddling with flattened staples I had sore fingers (and could only disassembly one cable). So ordered the right tools for the job! The crimp contacts were not firmly pinched, therefore the holes in the wooden parts were a little too small. With the order I also bought a good crimping tool. With the cable sleeve tool the cables were much more easy to detach from the connector. After a while I got the hang of it. I was too cautious in the beginning. After using the crimping tool the cables could go through the holes in the wooden parts. Gradually progressing.... Checking every cable position multiple times. I don't want smoke from my motherboard when improperly placed. Rebending the barbs back to their original positions, needed to place them back in the connector. Next time the cable connector will be assembled. Thanks to my sponsors!
  5. Placement of the PCI-e Extender and the covers of the PCI-e I/O openings. This time the PCI-e Extender will be placed and I will test the PCI-E I/O covers. The large and small covers are made with the lasercutter. These covers will resp. be placed when no PCI-e card is placed in the housing or a single slot card is placed. Below the covers two clamping plates (2x 3mm) are placed in the back wall to keep the flange of the PCI-e card backplate in place. Back wall with the small cover. Back wall with the large cover. Time to attach the PCI-e Extender cable to the HDD ventilation plate. I used an Ati HD4850 as a donor card to check the dimensions / placement. With the new produced back wall the VGA and DVI connectors will fit! The PCI-e Extender cable is aligned properly. Looking at the bottom of the housing. The PSU draws air from the PCI-e card and motherboard and blows the air outwards from the housing. Temporarily placed the motherboard. Removed the motherboard and routed the PCI-e Extender ribbon cable back to the inside of the housing to the motherboard. The excess ribbon length is folded .... ... and kept in place by the fan plate assembly. Thanks to my sponsors!
  6. Switches In this post the power and reset switches are sleeved. Testing the placement of the front panel cables. The power switch is moved from the side panel to the front panel. Searching for a long switch without ON/OFF logo. User Deodutie from another forum pointed me to an alternative long switch. Alas, the threaded part of the switch was still 1mm too short. Solution: handmilling the recessed pocket for the switch to a correct depth. In the past I did not have good experience with the supplied mills supplied with my old Dremel. But using the 2-flute mill from the CNC machine works wonders! Carefully milling by hand..., feels like a hot knife through butter Reset switch fits! Solder and sleeving time. Glass silk sleeving, it's very flexible and fine and dense but has a tendency to become fluffy. Used female PCB headers for the plug. Quite subtle. Thanks to my sponsors!
  7. Assembly PSU In this post the HDD assembly merges with the right- and left side. Also the PSU and backside will be placed. The holes on the right side are aligned with the fingers of the PSU bracket and HDD ventilation plate. The right side plate is placed. Now it's time to place the left side plate. The left side plate is placed. For the observant reader, I have sanded the two cable guide plates so it does not protrude the rest of the surface. At the top there is space for the PSU and cables, in the middle space is reserved for a PCI-e card and at the bottom there is room for the motherboard. Flipped the housing over to place the PSU. Fastened the RAMPA nuts, with these nuts a single or double slot PCI-E card can be fixed. It is also possible to close the holes when there's no PCI-E card or just a single slot card. If these holes would be left open, the PSU fan and extract fan would not force as much air over the CPU cooler. The back plate falls nicely in place. The PSU and cabling are aligned with the bracket. Enough room for all cables to be placed. The on/off switch in above picture is placed wrong and will be placed in the front plate. In the right side plate an other (reset)switch will be placed. Fixed the side plates by 2 pairs of 4 M5x16 DIN912 bolts. Some more pics: Thanks to my sponsors!
  8. Assembly HDD Now everything's sanded; assembly time. First fastened a harddisk in the hdd mountplate. Now it's time for the assembly of the HDD bracket with the sata-extender. The HDD bracket will be placed in the PSU bracket. The HDD- and PSU bracket assembly will be placed in the HDD plate. Everything fits! Next time the placement of the right plate and PSU will be covered. Thanks to my sponsors!
  9. Milling Session 5/6 These are the last milling sessions: the last parts combined in a single NC program for production. The PSU bracket (redo), right plate (redo, first one failed), backplate (v2) and drilling templates. Also lasered the wooden parts. New version of the back plate: no more surface damages! In the drilling templates are holes for possible dowels. If the front- and back plate do not stay in their position I can use these dowel positions. The right side has pockets that ends in a red layer of wood, gives a nice effect. Like the knot. The PSU bracket has minor surface damage, but less than last time. Also gave the PSU pocket bigger tolerances. Removed the parts from the stock and again sanding, sanding, sanding .... Bigger PCI-e holes in the backplate, aligned the holes better. Also, drilled the holes in the sides using the drill template. Fastened the RAMPA nuts in an improvised way;) Next time: time for the definite assembly of the HDD! Thanks to my sponsors!
  10. Milling Session 4 New 6mm mill has arrived! Time to use this for the left plate. DW-003D: LEFT PLATE This time the left side will be milled. No more fraying edges! Of course, not everything goes as planned. I thought I had a handy solution for the zeroing to the 3mm mill; let the 3mm mill loose in the clamp, position the head to zero and fasten the mill. Bring the head up and tighten the clamp. Well, that did not work as you can see in the photos below. Turns out the clamp moves the mill a little up when tightening the clamp. I removed the part with the fretsaw from the stock material. A lot of sanding time will be needed. At home, I removed the internal parts with a stanley knife (and more sanding). Takes a while, but the result is good. Preliminary Assembly of the parts (teaser): Next time, production of the right side! Thanks to my sponsors!
  11. Milling Session 3 Time for a new production batch. From left to right: front plate, cable connectors around the PSU bracket and the back plate. DW-005D: PSU BRACKET First milled part is the PSU bracket. Unfortunately, there's some minor damage on the part. Might it be possible to mitigate these damages with painter's tape? Let's see. Left pocket for placement of the two hdd brackets. The right pocket is for the PSU. DW-006-7D: CABLECONNECTORS Added some painter's tape on the stock material. Hopefully this works better. The painter's tape helped a little. But still some damage on the parts. There's still long wooden fibres at the cutting lines. Also the top surface of the part is damaged, fortunately these surfaces are at the inside of the cable connector assembly (not visible when assembled). I’ve sanded the cable connectors and assembled the wooden dowels. The screwed insert gave some problems, the plywood delaminated when screwing the insert in. So filled the loose layers with wood glue and allowed the glue to harden in clamps. DW-002D: BACK PLATE Tried one more time to put painter’s tape on the stock. Tried to change feed and speeds, to lessen the problem of splintered wood at the top surface. The painter’s tape wants to get stuck in the mill, so not a good solution. But still damage occurs, especially on parts perpendicular to the wood grain of the top surface. Need to find another solution for this problem. After some hand sanding. Initially I wanted a single slot case. But in the night before my milling day I thought a double slot PCI-E case will be more flexible future-wise. I looked in the data sheet about minimal IO openings of the PCI-E standard, but these dimensions are only for the contact area. When checking the part with a real HDMI and VGA connector, the housing of the connector does not fit in the slots. So this part needs a little redesign. DW-001D: FRONT PLATE I also milled the front plate of the case. No big damages here. The hole is for the power switch. Top and back side of the front plate. When looking online for other workarounds for the damaged milled top surfaces I finally found a better solution, a negative spiral mill! This will reduce the chance of a damaged top surface. The disadvantage is that the bottom surface may be damaged earlier. But the stock plates are tightly pressed to a temporary plate, so this chance might not be big (I hope). The difference between a positive and negative spiral mill is the direction of the cutting faces. The wooden chips will not go up, but down when milling in the stock with a negative spiral mill. Ordered a 6mm negative spiral mill (2 flutes) and waiting for delivery. Till next time! Thanks to my sponsors!
  12. Milling Session 2 DW-301D: MOTHERBOARD TRAY Making my second milled part. Made from 12mm Birch plywood stock. Somewhere in the milling program: The wood splinters at the top side of the stock while using the 6mm mill. The 3mm mill doesn’t do this as much (see the small upright wood fibers in the inner corner). Fortunately, only the stock is ‘damaged’ and not the real part. DW-101D: HDD BRACKET and DW-201D: HDD MOUNTPLATE From 18mm stock plate. The parts come out quite rough (again), so first rough sanding with the sanding machine. Sanding the HDD mountplate: Sanding the HDD bracket. The rest I'll sand at home by hand. At home, my first test is whether the HDD bracket fits in the ventilation plate. Unfortunately, the parts have a too small tolerance. So more sanding by hand. Temporarily fastened a donor hard disk on the mount plate. It fits! This joint assembly also fits! Removed the donor hard disk to further sand the parts. Details of the mountplate before sanding. After sanding with P800. The layers in the wood are more pronounced. Sanding the HDD bracket. Used a small piece of rolled up P800 sand paper to sand the holes. Before and after sanding. The 0,5mm height difference in the bracket is quite splintered. Next time I will avoid such small z-increments. The color difference and the saturation between sata extender and the wooden part is great. I don’t think I’ll be oiling or waxing the wood, because then the difference will be less. Thanks to my sponsors!
  13. Laser time! The new pattern bends! Assembled the fan plate. My first time ever to use a CNC milling machine. Quite exciting to turn on the milling machine and to check whether my first generated production CNC code actually works! Hopefully I use the correct feed and speed rates. I’ve been reading a lot on this material, even tried to make my own excel sheet to calculate correct feed- and speed rates, until I stumbled upon a trial of GWizard from This software is quite a handy tool for a beginner like me. Unfortunately I stumbled too late on this software before I generated my first CNC code for the first part. Didn’t even know where in the CAM software I could change the feedrate. Silly me So the first part, milled @ 1000 mm/min @ 10k rpm (minimum rate for the Kress motor) for a 2 flute 6mm mill, z-increment 3mm, takes a lot of time. Manually changing the speed to 300% in USBCNC is still too slow, with a tool change to 3mm it is more than 1 hour production time. But then again, the first rough part is there! The base plate (stock) is made from 12mm Birch plywood. This part must be 9mm thick, so first the top side is milled with a 6mm mill. After that, the finer details are milled with a 3mm mill. Unfortunately, the toolsetter is not properly integrated in USBCNC. Also not in the machine, it’s hanging like a weeping willow. See photo below. So using an alternative way to zero the mill: take a piece of paper and put this between the mill and plate. Gently lower the z-axis till the paper is stuck between mill and plate. Zero enough! This ‘paper zeroing’ is not very accurate. A fraction in the offset of the z-direction means that the 6mm and 3mm paths are distinguishable. But very well, this is acceptable in this part. In the picture above the part is already sanded, the part came quite rough out of the milling machine. Never had blisters on my fingers from sanding before, now I do ! As you can see, two M3 screwed inserts (RAMPA) are already assembled is this part. Till next time! Thanks to my sponsors!
  14. No visible fasteners on the outside of the case means that the extract fan and grille will not be fixed on the outside plate. First read the following article: Long story short: a standard fan grille works best regarding noise and air flow. Ordered a grille, measured it and modelled in 3D. Fasteners visible below the cover. An extra fan plate is used to attach the extract fan. This fan plate also keeps the PCI-E riser cable folded and prevents the outside cover from bulging outwards. Removing this fan plate shows the hard drives. Will need to route the fan cable. The fan and grille are fixed by nuts between the flanges of the fan and DIN 7991 bolts. Started drafting the parts in Alibre, looking for possible routes of the cables. And a first testpattern to bend wood. Forgot to join the lines, therefore the lasercutter cuts all the lines separate. Whoops! Problem: the wood will not bend: 2 causes: wrong orientation of the wood fibres with repect to the pattern and wrong angle of the joined cuts. Wood bending by laser cuts is more by local torsion than bending of the wood. Made a new bending pattern to test next time. Changed the hdd handle in Alibre. The curved lines looks better. Almost ready with the design, in the following exploded view all the wooden parts (22 unique items) are shown. Time to generate NC code (my first time ever). After a few trials finally made compatible NC code for USBCNC (now EdingCNC). Next time first production! Thanks to my sponsors!
  15. Moved the pci-e extender from the right side of the case to a position below the PSU. Therefore the sata extender is moved to the right side, this side still needs some more attention. I would like to see no visible fasteners on the outside of the case. The DIN 912 bolts from above picture can be used for magnets on the covering. But these bolts will be made of stainless steel, so extra magnet positions are needed. Turning to the bottom of the case you can see that the I/O plate is too far from the wall, so I made the case smaller. Some changes in the right side. With this smaller case the hard drive is difficult to remove from the sata extender. Therefore a 'cardridge' system for these drives. Turning to the left, the wide sata lane is changed to two small bands, since I will use round sata cables, approximately the same diameter as the sleeved ATX cables. Some more puzzling with a fan and a sort of connector for the front void of the PSU. Finally arrived at the final location of the extract fan: the right side. Moved the hard drives back below the PSU. Hmm..., will block the PSU fan. Back again? Better. Started with the PSU void connector. A strain relief system is incorporated. And a little begin for the hdd brackets. A part of the bracket is fastened to the hard drive to guide this drive and to make a handle accessible from the outside. Next time: final steps of the design process! Thanks to my sponsors!