dwilko

Members
  • Content Count

    57
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by dwilko


  1. Hello plandream , I assume yours has ran out of warranty? If it hasn't I'd just send it back in as long as you haven't modified it in any way. Much easier with an rma.

     

    As far as I know they are a sealed unit i could be wrong. 

     

    Il have look see if I can find any tear downs on the net il post a link here if I can find any.


  2. Any noise even at half speed I'd just rma for peace of mind mine is constant non adjustable via cpu header only the fan speed which are on the rad alter speed and one is always on anyway. 

     

    I rma'd my original nepton 240m as it was ticking but high pitch noise I'd just rma it mate if the 2nd one is the same it may just be how it is but I doubt it. No noise hopefully


  3. Any noise even at half speed I'd just rma for peace of mind mine is constant non adjustable via cpu header only the fan speed which are on the rad alter speed and one is always on anyway. 

     

    I rma'd my original nepton 240m as it was ticking but high pitch noise I'd just rma it mate if the 2nd one is the same it may just be how it is but I doubt it. No noise hopefully


  4. I'd try connecting to another header and see what rpm it is in the Bios just to make sure it's not a false reading and to see if the 12v feed is still the same.

     

    http://www.technologyx.com/featured/cooler-master-nepton-140xl/

     

    the table shows what wattage it should be drawing, mine is a nepton 240m and if I recall sits about the 2600rpm mark maxed out. So I'm unsure what voltage/wattage yours is pulling to get that rpm if the reading is correct.

     

    personally any noise other than light humming and I mean light a single fan is louder and the occasional light ticking (ticking random not in a pattern which is just air bubbles which normally occurs when first installed.

     

    Id check the above items and then if still the same rma no point running the pump at 50 unless the header is supplying to much current causing the overspeed.


  5. Hello hex sorry to hear your having issues , I'd double check installation of the cooler itself make sure your thermal compound is even on the face when you take it off it can indicate wether it's sat squarely etc just don't use too much or too little about a small pea size should do (anyone correct me if I'm wrong lol).

    Then I'd make sure your pump power supply is plugged directly into the cpu fan header.

    Using the y splitter I've got my rad fans plugged into the option header should work a treat. About 25 degrees idle and max of about 45-55 dependant on what your doing a 100% stress test may see 60-70 but I've not had higher than 65 in almost a year.

    If that's any help let me know - hope you get it sorted bud.


  6. My current fan speeds are;

    Cpu fan - 2600

    Cpu opt - 706 this is inaccurate due to using a u splitter so it is powering 2 fans at the same time.

    Rest are all hovering around the 1100-1400rpm mark bar my 140 which sits at 900rpm on I think is standard bios speeds I can have silent standard or turbo or full speed if I wish.

    I'd check your bios see what you have rpm wise full speed too and compare.


  7. I'd say it depends on fan settings on cpu opt , mine has 1 that runs quicker as it's constantly cooling and the other fan slows down with my settings (they're on the included y splitter).

    Max pump speed is 2900 I believe and it should sit at this or there about a regardless.

    Keeps the fluid going round kinda like the coolant pump in your car , always on but only when the car is up to temp the fans kick in but in our depends on temperature and fan settings.

    Il just reinstall ai suite and tell you what mine run at I've set all mine in the bios anyway it's just more straight forward.

    But sounds right to me anyway :)


  8. A RMA is a Return merchandise authorisation , or along them lines , basically contact the retailer whom you brought it off, they should send you the relevant paperwork/forms normally via email to print and return the defective item, your item will have its own RMA code for the return.

    The company will normally inspect/teat the item and give you a verdict.

    If faulty or not working as should they normally dispatch a replacement.

    If for instance the seller doesn't have any they can give a full refund minus any seller postage cost, RMA's are normally postage paid.

    Or the other option is to back order the item.

    I use scan computers for most of my hardware and there returns department were great so I normally purchase from them as any issues everything is covered.


  9. Good shout on the pump speed some don't like the max rpm for some reason , as long as the pump is constantly on (cpu header on motherboard and fans are to the cpu option header or manual set up) and sufficient contact on the cpu even on a lower rpm the cooler will work ok , just not as low as a 100% running pump, I mean only a few degrees at mid temps idle should be about the same , only place to worry would be max temps but if you set your fans to kick in earlier it should alleviate that temp increase.

    But if it's still squealing I'd rma it, slight tick from air bubble nothing to worry about and a low hum when everything else is off is normal, (case open to hear this).


  10. High pitch noise is likely major fault with the pump get it rma'd asap, my original one had a clicking to it and a odd rattle , the rattle if not constant is probably air but only if it's quiet. My replacement pump had the initial pump air bubble noise but went after a few minutes of use , mine is still performing great after a year and is not I repeat is not audiable unless I turn all the fans off , and just have the pump going.

    Any issues with the product contact the retailer if within there returns period, if not contact cooler master directly as if I recall it has a 5 year warranty. You may have to pay postage fee and be without a cooler for a week or so but the turn around is normally quick.

    Any issues give me a shout.


  11. Intel cpu? I made the mistakè with an aftermarket cooler tightened down a bit much only just , if you have a stock cooler dont worry , make sure the rams seated ok , gpu is in and secure and re dowiring just to check.

    You should also just be able to put the cpu cooler ram and psu together out of the case and see if it boots (anti static surface is good for this) forgot to say make sure the offsets are correct and your motherboard isnt fowling on your case.

    Let me know how you get on :)


  12. Hello!  Just finished my new build including 140XL.  Very excited and, so far, very pleased!

     

    A pal was over and noticed a slight clicking sound.  We think it is coming from the pump.  It isn't loud, in fact with the chassis buttoned up, it is hard to hear at all.  Is this normal?

     

    Hopefully, I just need a little reassurance!  Thanks!

    Hello bud, if its only a slight ticking and random not constant may just be trapped air. it can dissipate my replacement nepton 240m still had slight ticking from the pump but has pretty much stopped. the original was quite loud audible over the fans at max rpm so i had it rma'd. 

    My advice would be run it for a half hour or so leave it overnight and then start again repeat the process if it gets worse id rma it. if its only slight it may stop.


  13. I used that forum and pc part picker for mine , but what I will say is this I built mine so I wouldn't upgrade stuff for 2-5 years and cost me 850 for a approx 1200 pc

    Amd equivalent was about £600 yes not as energy efficient but that's at max power most the time my cpu is using 10-35 watts never seen it above that max draw is 100 so again I spent and extra £100 to get a i54690k when I could have gone with a fx series cpu with next to no difference in real world scenarios unless rendering videos or file encryption.

    If the chaps already got an fx8350 I'd keep it its solid dependable and blows the Haswell series out the water for value.

    Also saves getting a new motherboard and cpu so I'd stick with amd until Intel can offer something better than skylake since only margin better than the Haswell e series refresh.


  14. Personally the Asus sabertooth series for the fx cpus is the one to go with , I was going to build an amd rig that's what I chose for the setup.

    Msi do great looking boards and some work great but a good deal have issues with some features not all error have been ironed out tho.

    Even tho I'm an Intel i5 4690k user both myself and my brother have an Asus board.

    Unless I wanted to have a colour coded board I'd stick with the Asus sabertooth mobo renowned board with the amd users.


  15. right as i thought i've downloaded the manual for your mobo so i can see the port specs etc 

     

    oxeJkpo.png

     

    as you can see the cpu fan is the only one with 4 pin control and should only be used for the cpu pump.

     

    The 2 fans only support 3 pin fans however a 4 pin pwm fan will still work but will only run as a 3 pin fan ie voltage control.

     

    id not use the splitter and have each fan on each fan port and regulate the speed via the bios.

     

    hope that helps mate


  16. right bud after having a closer look at the mobo the previously uploaded pictures were a bit grainy.

    The sysfan1 which you have connected your fan to is pwm so should work 

    The sysfan2 is non pwm only 3 pin.

     

    So you have them correctly configured. just reading through a few other forums there's a few issues with not being able to control the fans directly with software including speedfan.

     the only thing i can think of is your board doesnt support pwm but has that feature for the cpu pump only.


  17. Not sure where you got that figure from as even your high speed case fans don't do that sort of speed and as it's mechanical that speed would shake it to bits and youd have some mega vibration from the pump.

    And yes 12 supply via cpu fan port keeps a constant feed to the pump

    • Upvote 1