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Posts posted by cinnamoncider

  1. bitbob, check the power connector from the fans and the CPU water pump/block. In my 120V - the CPU water pump/block requires a 3-pin header and the fans require PWM 4-pin header.

    Pictures for reference:

    4-pin PWM female


    3-pin female (without the cable)


    Make sure that both headers are connected into the corresponding pins. Does your system boots-up? How are the temperatures?

  2. I would argue that a push-pull configuration offers a noticeable difference in performance. It really depends on the output of your CPU though. If you have a low power output CPU, the difference is minimal, but throw in an overclocked higher end CPU, and push-pull can make a significant difference. Also, the quality of the fan makes a difference too. 


    Here's a review from Linus about push vs pull vs push-pull configurations


  3. Not scratch-proof but scratch-resistant. I mean, even from a slight wipe from a generic rag scratches the window. Acrylic is sensitive as :). I hope that CM would sell replacement window side panel. It's a good thing that I don't have a severe case of OCD. In the future - when I'm going to buy a chassis again - I'll be extra careful  :)

  4. Finally voted after the clarifications  :D 

    I answered yes in the carrying handles if they are similar to the Cosmos. On front-mounted PSUs - implementation may be similar to the Bitfenix Prodigy/Phenom M - which runs a power cable inside the case to reach the PSU at the front. This would allow more space beneath the graphics card, but the airflow will be re-routed.

    VGA holders ruins the appearance  <_<

  5. I'm using a CM690III case.

    My current fans are:
    Front: 200mm (stock CM fan) - intake

    3x 5.25" Drive Bays: 120mm ThermalTake programmable LED fan (I placed a fan cage in here) - intake

    Rear: 120mm (stock CM fan) - exhaust

    Top: 120mm CM Blade Master (stock CM Seidon 120V fan) pull configuration - exhaust

    I currently got four in total.

    I'm planning to replace cooling solutions by:
    Front: 2x 140mm Corsair SP Performance Edition - intake

    CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Seidon 240M

    CPU Cooler Radiator Fans: x2 120mm Corsair SP Performance Edition in pull configuration - exhaust

    The radiator will be installed at the top.

    Rear: 120mm Corsair SP Performance Edition - exhaust

    Bottom: 120mm Corsair SP Performance Edition - intake

  6. 11602483905_4628e00f98_z.jpg


    Here's a picture of the internal of my 690 III. If possible in the future - I would love to see Cooler Master doing a refreshed 690 III.

    Here are some of my ideas:

    Scratch-resistant acrylic window side panel  - mine got so many scratches from cleaning with just a towel. This is my first casing with a window side panel. I learned my lesson. I hope Cooler Master would be able to sell replacement window side panels for this.


    Rubber grommets on cable management holes - needless to say - this would be a lot sexier with rubber grommets in it.

    Option to remove the top compartment with cover - replace this with a bracket to allow 360mm radiator. This would allow further customizability for users who want to use those rads. The top mesh would have to be replaced.

    Change the compartment cover design - I know that it's hard to use the cover by just sliding it. I usually place my external hard drives above it.


    Front Panel USB3 to USB2 connector for internal pin headers - there are still people that uses motherboards without internal USB3.0 headers. It would be nice if the unit itself comes with a adapter, so that it will not be left dead blank if the user doesn't have a board with said internal headers.


    More headroom above the motherboard - an inch of headroom - if possible. I'm trying to do a push-pull configuration for my 120 rad positioned in the front-end of the motherboard. The result is that it blocks the memory module slot  :(. It's possible to do a push-pull config on the rear-end of the motherboard - near the I/O ports. If you really want that configuration for a dual rad - you'll be needing to remove the top cover and place the fans above  :unsure:


    Improved top cover - the top cover has its weak points on some portions. After two days, I noticed that the top cover is not laying flat, and when I checked it out - the cover has a small crack. I just used an adhesive to put them back again. The design is fine, but the weak points should be pointed out. See the image below.
    11829615823_c19847f6c2_n.jpg  11829343455_9717f29ea3_n.jpg 

    Other than that I don't have anything else to say.

    How about you, guys? Do you have any ideas?  :)

    • Upvote 1

  7. There's no difference in performance in any of those set-ups. The tubes are flexible and hardly be interrupted by the flexing required. I have to say that the tubes on Seidon are the most flexible ones I can see from the market - compared to other CLCs.

    Regarding about the fan set-ups - I recommend using a single fan in a pull configuration. Cleaning the radiator will be easier this way - without removing the whole rad from mounting. You'll just brush the fins on the rad  :D. In a push and pull configuration - there's no difference in performance. If you really want to see a significant temperature drop - I suggest controlling the temperature of your room :)

  8. There are already fan-less PSUs out there - at the market. Passively cooled, they can only have a certain maximum wattage capacity unlike PSU with cooled by fans. Cooler Master have PSUs with silent fans, but I still haven't heard any passively cooled PSUs from them.