Zoot Allures

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  1. Thanks for the link. A bottom fan right after the HDD racks in a case like in the CM-690/CM-590 can dramatically ease the cooling of HDD helping the front fan by blowing warm/hot air up to the different exhausts. I recently experienced on four of my hard disks mounted in their rubber slices behind the front WC radiator in intake. Now that the ambient temperatures begin to naturally increase in western europe too, I couldn't keep them under 40° with the warmer intake from the watercooling. Now, all the WC things on maintenance (spring cleaning etc., thanks to Elf Glaceol, all was mostly clean) before an other case integration, the same drives were in the open chassis with "natural" cooling, and again the temps were about 40°+ and decreased with a fan attached on the front blowing a bit. With my hard-drives the other parts that spread heat on my watercooled rig is the passive 7600GT that maybe take advantage of the rear case fan and a less way, the PSU one 25 cm higher. The conclusion: an open-air rig is not the best way of cooling the hardware.
  2. Anyway, Fireheart, there's no need to filter the air out. You don't care having dust in the room or not, and you'd better got it away than on your components, huh? So the exhaust will be better than intake with equal number of rear/front same power fan and filtered intake.
  3. Hi Tonschk, This chart is very interesting. What if we use stocking or some kitchen extractor hood foam?
  4. Hi there, hi Milllerr, Coolermaster's? :-) In their Silence, Performance et Neon series. AeroCool, Sharkoon have some too. I don't know about other manufacturers. EDIT: My bad... I gave you fans but no filters...
  5. Hi, Please wait for a CM person to confirm, but as of my experience, it wont. It is given to be 160 mm high and I couldn't have my Thermalright HR-01, 160 mm high, in a Gigabyte GZ-X1 that share the same chassis. Missing only a few millimeters for the top of the heat pipes. It could have been gorgeous to cut a rectangular hole to fit the top of the heatsink, but it was for a girl interior and not so easy to fit exactly were the hole has to be when the panel is closed. See it is a really tight fit :
  6. It might be together with the power-button: computer of + button pressed short => boots up computer on + button pressed short => reset computer on + button pressed long => shut down Might also be configured in the bios(I think) and OS. Hey, here's a review of the case. I quote, on page two : I mean I'm not the only one to feel bitter about it. Other than that, about their remarks : the lack of removable mobo-tray at this range of price is not dramatic when a dust filter on the PSU bottom intake could be useful.
  7. Real nice idea, Tonschk. If you're able to attach Antec's on CM chassis (see what I meant about CM ST-01 front bay bezels).
  8. Hi there, I can't tell about the Centurion serie, I don't know them well. My two pennies about three CM chassis I owned or built, CM Stacker ST-01, CM-690 (I owned theese) and CM Elite 330 for my girl. The principal grievance about not so cheap Stacker and 690, the side panel latches : thin metal sheet + dummy latch makes it hard to handle, put back in place. The same cheap system on a budget case like Elite Serie is acceptable, not on 70+ € case (CM has to look to Textorm 974, Textorm 69U3 or same age Antec chassis ways of doing that). It is possible to live with it because after you set your new rig and adjusted this or that, you don't open the case so often... On the Stacker, the point that really drove me mad, was the front 5.25" covers so easy to move by mistake to the inside of the tower so it's not well inline with the rest, and so you that you got to open the f*** side panel, put the 4in3 out, in my case, the WC radiator to be able to push it from the inside... The front panel thing, gap between panel and chassis, on the CM-690 pissed me really of... Last observation about the finishing of a budget case, I will just compare the Gigabyte GZ-X1 (and some other GZ) and the Elite 300 serie that share the same chassis : GZ: 2 fans (and a Y cable) Elite: 1 fan GZ: 1 front 1394 connector Elite: none etc. Please, have a look on this post I wrote for PCS (in french but pictures are self explanatory). I'm not enthusiast enough to buy a 200 € or so case like Cosmos (that has some flaws too, as I can reed here! not even a S without this HDD drawers) or from any other manufacturer in fact because there always will be something to dremel even at this top level of case. The first point to me on the CM-690 was PSU placed at the bottom and, by consequence, the room for a WC radiator... I think I never buy a Coolermaster case if they don't change the way they do. Edit: Even if CM is trying to improve the support with the guys around (thanks to them to be here trying their best), it seems they allways have to wait for allready broken or defect products to get spare parts... that's a stingy way.
  9. Hi Tonschk, My Abit IP35 Pro has one too but it's advanced/enthusiast hardware, I've never seen that on budget mobos. OK a budget mobo owner, say Mr Smith, wont buy a CM-590 With my main OS, Win XP I don't use it. It's only with some other OS that could happen. What you call "my first computer", is that the one in your signature, the CM-690? It has the flat latch?
  10. It'll have to. Is far more easier with it's own button... than to think "morse" when having troubles with the rig.
  11. Hi, Indeed are no grills at all or bigger holes grills better... How much degrees to win vs. dust and noise (drives motor whining etc.) from the inside for this couple of degrees? With the original CM-690 hard-drives trays and its crippled air-flow, the difference should be noticeable but with CM-590 one, I think the difference wont be so dramatic. I think here it's a matter of compromise, isn't it. By the way, I see that CM has kept the "soft" nipples for the front panel... I wish they choosed a harder plastic. No reset button on the front panel, not all mobos have a reset button... Maybe a soft press on the ON/OFF could have do the job but there is no Reset Switch cable visible.
  12. Hi there, Antec's top honeycomb mesh are about 30% restrictive when their or Coolermaster's round mesh should be about 40/45% whatever the size of the hole. I think you shouldn't bother to get Antec's drive cage. I'd like to find the same testers chart (and hard drives and test protocol) but it seems that Cowcotland haven't tested the NH. There's another test on Overclockersonline: On my side, my rig is back in a Gigabyte GZ-X1 I played with last autumn (it's front façade has the same nipples than CM-690's one but no gap here); it's front intake are only slits on the side. Because of this and so that my drives are a closer to each other too, the HHD temps increased by 5/6°C with the same Nexus fan speed (because Nexus are real silent fans, I can increase their speed without hurting my ears). I think I can cut out one on two of them to increase the air intake a bit... Note that GZ-X1 share exact same inner design as Coolermaster Elite 3x0 serie or NZXT Hush (to the review I wrote for PCS) but the Elite has front meshed. I built in a CM Elite 330 my girl's rig with (only) two Hitachi --smaller but same family as mine, so same temperatures range-- and their temps are a lot lower (I don't remember the values) with undervolted stock fans. Mesh is definitely the best way to cool a rig but to get noise too...
  13. Hi there, Thanks, man, I sent this link to Materiel.net a couple of weeks ago. Shame on me, because it was in french, I didn't find useful to post it here...