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About dread

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  1. the x-connect is rated like at 60+% efficiency whereas the PC Power & Cooling scores a 98%. there are tons of psu info in the hardOCP psu forums here: http://www.hardforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=93
  2. there's a trick to it. Route the power cables you are going to use through the front of the psu cage, then insert the psu throught the rear as normal and plug the cables in before you push the psu all the way in. gottit?
  3. sorry, just skimmed the thread but imho the x-connect psu is a pos from an efficiency stand point. From a modder pov, it's great. I have one in my show rig and a PC P&C in my day-to-day gaming rig that runs 24/7. Too each their own. If CM can bridge the gap between asthetics and functionality, they'll have a winner. waterblock in a psu is still a wide open market but it's gonna be a small market. I think it'll be awesome and I would grab one for my next rig! I'd also like to see an external psu, like the bricks for laptops, but with 500 watts and perhaps a thick cable from the psu to a back plate that mounts where it would normally go and then from there the various rails are broken out to the various components. Understandably the lines would be longer then usual and would added to the overall resistance, hence less efficient... but it would reall free up some case space and also allow the use of full size psu in sff with the proper back plate. Of course this could be easily built by a modder... hmmm... I guess I got my next project. CM want to send me a psu to play around with?
  4. yes the 2nd cooling loop is an additional expense but not double by my calculations as you won't be needing a cpu or gpu water block. However, you'll need another 2 radiators to make it work. I envision a setup similar to how they cool nuculear reactors lol. And definitely, you'll be needing a lot of space. I don't think you'd experience quite as much problem with condensation though because the peltier is on the radiator. But it's all in the details of the build now isn't it. Has anyone given this a try?
  5. here's what may be a dumb question from a noob (me) why place the peltier directly on the cpu? why not use the peltier to say cool the water in the radiator that's connected to the cpu, gpu, and whatever. Then use a 2nd water cooling setup to cool the hot side of the peltier? seems like a more manageable solution if you can afford two water cooling systems... no flames please but please educate me!!!
  6. I've had success using all the above methods. It really depends on the size of the hole. The better the quality of the tool, the less mess you're gonna make. If you're gonna use that kit though, um good luck. Be sure to clamp the metal down tight because any movement will truly mess things up. With some practice though, there are guys that can free hand cut windows with the dremel, but that takes patience and practice. Grab that old AT case and use it for practice. Also, cutting aluminum it a heck of a lot easier then steel. Hope this helps:-)
  7. excellent work so far. Way to spruce up a plain old case! I love the glossy blackness of the interior! Dremels are great little tools, I can't imagine doing a case mod without busting mine out. You'll find them anywhere from Walmart to Home Depot. So hurry up and spill the sevret!