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    MasterKeys Clacker

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  1. Try reinstall the CPU cooler to be sure is properly seated and touching the processor with thermal paste in between
  2. Try to seal gaps and holes around the fan (between the fan and the chassis) which allows counter returning airflow and therefore decrease the airflow in the direction the fan is pushing, also the design of the fan is very important, for a silent (as possible) fan choose a fan with lower amount of blades, therefore is better a fan with 5 blades instead of seven blades. Increasing the amount of blades increase the developing noise and reduce the efficiency of the airflow generated. Lower attack angle of the blade can reduce the noise generated by the fan. Also as possible choose a fan with reduced depth, therefore a 20 or 25mm depth fan is better than a 38mm depth fan
  3. Hi, you may need to show a photo of the cooler?
  4. I think sometimes the motherboard fan connectors only allow a max of 1 Ampere, if you connect with splitter too many fans to the same fan connector on the motherboard, may be that fan connector cannot support all the fans connected, may be you can check the maximum amount of current such connector can provide to the fans attached, I dont know if this suggestion is going to sort out you issue, just an idea
  5. Hi, may be you can find it in the accessories .......
  6. I agree, I am against closed front panels, but I think is possible to detach and remove the front panel of the C700P
  7. Hi, the abilities of the airflow to cool down the components inside the PC case depends on two airflow properties which are: the speed of the airflow and the temperature of the airflow. If you have no idea how to properly and efficiently develop airflow inside your PC case, then you can install fans everywhere inside your case, install fans on the front, back, top, bottom and also on the left and right side panels. This way you can develop random airflow moving in a variety of directions inside your case at lower speed. Another method which I prefer is to try to allow All the intake airflow to come inside the case (with the help of fans) through a single intake and allow to escape or exhaust outside the case in the opposite side of this intake in a straight line (without 90 degrees deviations), this method offer the advantage of reduced amount of fans and the ability to control at will the specific single airflow speed inside the case, below I add the photo as example and a website link with more detailed explanation about this subject .....
  8. Hi, today arrived here the large cheap 2mm thick thermal pads to install in between the large heat-sink and the case, now I need to cut to size, below some photos, thanks for watching,
  9. Hi, so far one way I was thinking to transfer some heat from the motherboard to the large heat sink is by using a flat copper sheet (0.5mm thick) from below the motherboard and reaching the underside of the large heat-sink, obviously I need to be very carefully to avoid the underside of the mobo to touch such copper sheet, I dont know how much heat will be able to move towards the heat-sink, but I need carefully to try. Another way to transfer the heat can be by connecting such copper sheet directly from the CPU and after some bending reach the underside of the large heatsink, below some photos of the first idea, thanks for watching
  10. A while ago I chopped the alleged heat-pipes of a Thermaltake CPU cooler and later also I chopped the heat-pipes of a Thermalright VGA cooler, both were completely Dry inside, the CPU cooler manufacturers use hollow pipes to reduce cost (less copper), reduce weight and because is much much easier to bend hollow pipes instead solid copper rods which are much harder to bend, I plan to chop the end of the heat-piped of one of my CPU coolers which I have two identical here at home to allow some fresh air continuously penetrate the pipes, later I can easy compare the results of both identical coolers. In the link provided below also other people have chopped the pipes of their coolers to find completely dry, no evidence of any liquid......
  11. If the power supply release smoke, you need RMA and send back where you bought it or may be send to Coolermaster
  12. Hi, I am going to try to connect this large heat sink 22x146x600mm (which is attached to the case using a thermal pad) to the motherboard or direct to the processor using a flat copper sheet, as a mean to connect both and transfer some heat, obviously if connected to the motherboard I need to be very careful to avoid short circuit to ground, below some photos. I dont know and also I am not sure how much heat I will be able to transfer to this large heat sink using this method, but is just a matter to try and test the results, thanks for watching
  13. Hi, the newest brackets are ready punched on 2mm hard stainless steel, new hopefully this weekend I can drill holes for the new brackets on the upgraded bigger heatsinks, thanks for watching
  14. Perhaps the separate rails are made in purpose to limit (over current protection) the current (Amps) which go through the wires, check the link ....