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    MasterKeys Clacker

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  1. Hi there, today at the metal work factory we finally bend the latest revision of the motherboard tray and squeeze together the self clinching flush nuts for the ATX standoffs, later after I drill some holes for the screws, I still need to bring the various case components for the electrostatic powder coating
  2. Hi there, Yesterday I bring home the new revision of the case feet made of Stainless-steel 3mm thick, hopefully this weekend I can drill the holes for the screws, I attach below some photos for comparison between the new and the previous design of the feet which were made of normal mild steel 3mm thick
  3. Hi there, a bit of time available now to do some case modifications, I order the metal work factory to modify again a bit the case feet and also the cutout of the motherboard tray, the latest case feet will be made with Stainless-Steel 3mm (bullet-proof) thick, which is harder and stronger than usual mild steel, I reduced the height of the case feet by 20mm = 2cm, the original design was 100mm height, therefore now the whole case will be above the floor by just 80mm, I think this is still enough and not too close to the floor to hinder the airflow to enter the case through the case bottom, below some photos of bending/fold process at the metal factory
  4. Nice and tidy design! well done
  5. Nice and tidy, I like the Fully wired power supply, well done
  6. There are at youtube some videos about EVO Hyper 212 installation ... How to install a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO.......https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n47WBQI31eE
  7. Hi, I already installed FreeCad, http://www.freecadweb.org/ , apparently is good but I have not yet learned how to use
  8. Hi, may be you can use screws with countersunk head, be careful to choose the screws with the same threads which are already in the Jetflo mounting holes
  9. Hi, I decided to add another two cut outs to the motherboard tray just in case eventually in the future can be needed for various sort of motherboards configuration, also have changed the location and shape of the cut out to pass the cables through the feet of the case, below are shown some photos
  10. Hi, almost finish the swap of the CPU cooler, I am going to test if this Evercool Silent Shark is better or worst than the Scythe Mugen 3, Update: The temperatures results with the Evercool Silent Shark were struggling to match the results of the Scythe Mugen 3, at the moment the only reason I can think about is because the Evercool don't have the extra small aluminium heatsink at the base of the cooler like the Scythe Mugen 3 has, therefore I got already from eBay a small aluminium heatsink to attach to the base of the Evercool Silent Shark, there is a bunch of modifications I need to do, I need to modify completely the way the Evercool is attached to the CPU, below I add some photos
  11. Finally I got an idea how to remove the side bended edges of this cooler without damaging too much the factory look, this modification allows the airflow to go through the cooler from this side instead of the normal side
  12. The Evercool Silent Shark CPU cooler is here, now I need to modify a bit this cooler before installation
  13. I hope, coolermaster develop the 140mm version, for the moment as far as I know, the 80mm version have been done
  14. Update:, I plan to swap the CPU cooler with the Evercool Silent shark, using the vertical airflow of the case to cool down this CPU cooler, I rotate this cooler in the way is shown in the pictures below, in this way the speed of the ascendant airflow moving parallel to the towers is greater because this cooler has lower impedance if the airflow is parallel to the towers and not perpendicular to the towers, some modifications of the cooler itself are necessary obviously Airflow Impedance of the CPU cooler is a feature of the cooler which show us how much the fins of the cooler are blocking the available airflow to go through the cooler itself Airflow Impedance = pressure drop through the cooler. http://www.arx-group.com/airflow1.html
  15. Hola, si quieres podrias remover y eliminar los (4) cuatro "clips" de material plastico negro/blanco que vienen con el anclaje para Intel, atornillar los cuatro anclajes para Intel con los ocho tornillos en el disipador I luego conseguir/buscar cuatro tornillos compatibles pare atornillar el disipador a la placa