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About fastrpms

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  1. Ok, I'm bumping this because this problem is STILL not resolved! I'm becoming extremely impatient with the lack of service that I have received. I have called several times to get a new panel shipped to me and I keep being told to call back to see when they get one in stock. Now, when I call and leave a message, I don't get a call back. I even emailed customer support but I still have not received any reply. I have been a long time fan of Coolermaster products and it is disappointing to see this kind of lack of service and quality. Hopefully someone from customer service will see this and do something about this.
  2. My power button for my Cosmos S is not working correctly. I have both of the connections installed correctly but it acts as if the power button is stuck on. If I completely remove power from the power supply (remove AC power plug), I can power up my computer just fine. However, as soon as I go to try to turn it off, it just cycles the power a couple times, then I'm unable to power it on. In order to turn the system back on, I need to remove power to the power supply again or remove the power button connector as soon as the power is brought up. I preformed the following tests to give as much information about the problem as possible. Test with computer off but ATX power cable plugged into the motherboard: I assumed that some sort of relay was being stuck or the sensitivity was set too high so used a meter to monitor the resistance while pressing the button. The first thing I noticed was the resistance seems like there is some sort of noise on it because the resistance jumps all around but always remains above 1M ohm (open switch). When I press the button, the resistance goes to 130 ohms (closed switch) only while the button is being pressed and returns to high resistance after I depress the power button (momentary switch). This is the correct function of the button. Test with computer on : I preformed the same test as above but to my surprise, the resistance stayed low at 130 ohms (closed switch). I pressed the power button several times but the resistance never changed. I'm going to make a logical guess and say that the 3 wires used from the ATX power cable going to the motherboard are: Power, return, and some sort of power monitoring voltage that monitors if the motherboard is powered up. The signal would be used to light the red LED on the power button to show that the computer is on. This must be the signal that is causing some sort of problem with the power button remaining on (closed switch). Its as if the power monitoring signal is doing the same job as pressing the power button.... I'll have to test that later as my ASUS P5Q Deluxe has a power button on the motherboard. I'll report the findings later.
  3. Are you getting these temperatures from the BIOS menu or from some program within Windows? Also, you have several components that produce a good deal of heat. What is the case temperature reported at? If the case temp is getting extremly hot then you can stop troubleshooting the CPU cooler. I mention this because it happened to me when I bought a new power supply that didn't blow the enough heat out of the case. My case temps got up to 60 - 65 degrees, therefore my CPU temps jumped to 70.
  4. WOW! That sounds way to hot for a Barton. What kind of Motherboard do you have? I have heard of some motherboards reporting the temps wrong. This would be fixed with the lastest BIOS update. I have 2 computers with (air cooled) overclocked Bartons, and they don't run nearly that hot.
  5. All the postwomen I've seen around me are scary! Maybe I'll move to the UK to get the better view. ...or maybe Sweden??? uuummmm..... Blondes.....
  6. OMG... I would love to see an auction for RMA products. I would greatly increase the amount of CM stuff I have. I would auction snipe you all!!
  7. The front door is one of the main reasons I love that case!
  8. $60 for shipping!!! For that price, it better be hand delievered by a supermodel wearing little to nothing at all.
  9. I wish I could buy that grill in the US. I could only find it for sale in the UK. Why is it that Europe has so many water-cooling products?
  10. I found this guy with a 120mm radiator at the top but it looks like only has room for 2 drives. No matter what, its a very cool case
  11. I have an Epower Jaguar 450 power supply that had the same problem! You can check it out here The problem that I found is that they must have used a thermistor that was rated at too high of a temperature. (A thermistor changes its resistance value as temperature changes. As temp goes up, resistance goes down.) To fix this problem, I removed a thermistor from an old enermax fan and put it in place of the old thermistor in the power supply. Now the fan speeds up at a lower temperature so that my power supply and case stays cool and quite! If you also want the option of manual control, you can solder a potentiometer in parallel with the thermistor and mount it to the back of your power supply. There are other ways of manual control but the advantage to this method is that if you left the manual control too low, the thermistor would override the manual control so that you don't overheat your power supply. Hope this helps!
  12. I use these: I think that your selection would be better for the fact that you would not have to clean very often. Lots of surface area to work with. My filters get dirty pretty fast and I'm really sick of tearing apart the case just to clean them. I wish I had some sort of door mod so I could get to the filters faster. The next time I tear apart my case, I think I might check into this as an option.
  13. What do you mean, they have filters??? I have the silver wavemaster and I had to install my own filters. They are a pain in the butt clean because I have to take apart the whole front of my case. I hope the Wavemaster 2 solves this problem! Do these filters come with the colored cases only???
  14. I don't know if this would be possible, but I would like to see the power transistors mounted to a copper base that comes standard with a fan/heatsink but could be upgraded to a water block.