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Everything posted by phinix

  1. Thanks, yeah, things like that happen sometimes;) I guess I didn't have enough friends with emails My 100 against others almost 3000 gives a lot to think about By the way, I like your scratch build - a lot of soldering going on there - I really love those soldered smd leds around USB socket, looks fantastic! Nice clean work, I know how much work takes when you use aluminium and cut it all in hands. Nice front panel finish.
  2. Thank you guys for your kind words and all your vots! Voting went through the roof here in the competition I can see
  3. This build is fantastic, one of the best steampunk I've seen. I'm really surprised that it has only 2 votes so far:( Maybe because for some reason non of the polish email domains work in voting system WP, onet, o2 - non of them work when someone votes. I hope you'll get more votes in next 2 weeks, cause its a great project! Powodzenia!
  4. Guys, do you know when the voting will start? There are only facebook "like" buttons on each "meet the contestants" page.
  5. On the last minute, here are the final pictures of my finished Nano Tower:)
  6. Hello everyone! I thought I post here as well. This is my first time taking part in Cooler Master Competition, so I'm really happy that I have a build I could present over here! Good luck everyone and have a fun! Mod on!
  7. Thanks! Yeah, it was VERY hard to squeeze it all in, but was worth it:) This week I'll finally finish it:) Thank you very much! I'm happy that you like my build so much. I hope you're going to like it when I finish it and show the final result!
  8. Thank you very much for your kind words! I'm happy you like my build!
  9. One day I realised that I need to re-assemble the Tower to fix a bit those PSU wires I had cut and painted those two small bits to hold a PCI-E cables cover. ..and this is how it is going to be mounted, using velcro pads (it has to be removable). I have also attached watercooling to CPU... EDIT - As one of the conditions of our contest, I used Cooler Master product - this brilliant thermal paste I had from other CPU cooler. For some reason this back-plate is always on its side...heh... There! Better? :worried: I like how those hoses are so soft and easy to move around... Watercooling mounted... CHECK! DVD mounted...CHECK! Top fan mounting.. CHECK! You can see here how little space is left for graphic card... 3.5cm Nano Tower resting... chilling... Bottom acrylic panel, ready for painting... I fit in right side panel, it was pretty dark inside, so had to use lamp for this one. Right side panel fits in... CHECK! Now, it was also the time to assemble this ring cover for reservoir I designed and showed before on few sketches. Now, I showed these before, these are small comb pieces that will hold all rings. I glued them together with third one, straight rectangle with holes for leds. Then I added top and bottom small rectangles. I pushed in those rings to see how it is going to look like - please have in mind they are only pushed here, that is why they are uneven... I like how they glow in my hand:) Then I took them out and glued them in, all straight:) You may notice it is missing one ring on top - it's just a miscalculation, I need to get one more later. After that I spent some time on soldering 10 leds, then pushed them in those holes. They come in easily but firmly, so I dont need to use glue or anything. Perfect fit. Then I couldn't stop myself from trying them out. So here are photos of this ring cover, lit up like Christmas tree:) ..b&w anyone? I played a bit with my camera and tried to get a bit darker ones - I like how you can see every edge of each piece of acrylic, like a skeleton rentgen photos:) I spent a lot of time on painting stuff. I painted all aluminum hex shapes for front panel. First 3 layers of black matte paint, then clear laquer, 2-3 layers. All look beautiful. I also designed and cut out temperature lcd holder, which is attached to this ring cover and stick out on the right side of it. To make it, I used a black tinted acrylic for this. Color didn't matter cause it was going to be black painted anyway. It will be attached like this. And here is painted and attached to the ring cover. I used double sided tape for it. Cables will be cut to length and sleeved later, when the whole thing will go inside of the Tower. I also painted this USB socket that goes on top. It was ugly cream color, but wanted it nice black deep color. Cable was sleeved as well. To finish some other bits I used this double sided tape - I have attached aluminium painted cover to acrylic piece of that GPU cable cover I showed before. I did some work on rear panel too - cut to length fan cables and sleeved them. All three of them:) Then sleeved power button cable... Also sleeved each of those single wires, using yellow heat shrink - to add a nice finish. I'm not sure I showed you guys my special "painting chamber" in my attic:) After applying few coats of paint, fumes in the air are so "thick" that I'm always "done" for the rest of the day;) New thing here! I decided to change the design of the top panel, adding this nice cover. It has holes for power button and USB socket. Remember that older version of it, with small hole plates? I didn't like it so designed these. Both acrylic and aluminium bits are same size, I drilled those holes in acrylic bit for 3mm yellow leds which will be pushed in to light up the whole edge of this thing... Here it is on top 10mm acrylic panel.
  10. Next thing I did the other day was to solder all those SMD led strips for side panels (that go under those acrylic combs), so I took a small trip to Maplin and bought this: Those are VERY handy helping hands:) So I cut up those strips to 3 led bits and started to solder them together so they create 3x6 pattern that will go under side "acrylic combs". Look how nice and small these solders look. I love it:) Slowly.. one after another... First set done... They had to be arranged to this... As you can see, I had to cut small wire pieces for those small loops. After few hours, I had all 4 done I had to cover-push those sets to the panels from behind... ... I mean.. from the rear... I mean... Anyway.... I made rectangles from 0.5mm thick aluminium sheet, rounded corers and covered them with semi-clear "frost" film. This was necessary to make sure those leds won't conduct electricity to the panels. I soldered long wires for later mount, glued those leds to the rectangles and attached them to the panel. After half an hour, I had one panel done - two sets ready to go! After that I finished reset switch. To do that, I used old reset micro-switch, M3 dome nut and small piece of acrylic. I painted black that nut and piece of acrylic. Reset goes right above fan controller. Acrylic piece pushes reset switch and reset switch pushes this nut to the hole in the rear panel. So all nicely look like this:) Of course I will add double sided tape between switch and acrylic piece that is why now it looks a bit.. wobbly... Of course those screws will be cut to size:) Here is how it looks from behind
  11. Next big thing to do was to shorten all PSU cables.. Nightmare to do but had to be done... I needed to cut down all cables to make sure it will all fit in small power chamber. Here's a Tower waiting for cables... I started from labelling 24pin cable. What I wanted to do was to "sleeve" those wires, but not with sleeve, I wanted them to look as thin as possible, so used yellow 2.4mm heatshrink, 8cm length for each wire, just for pieces that will come out from power chamber. I really like the result... very nice:) I also had to "amputate" most of the pre-soldered cables, like SATA line, 4pin CPU power, floppy bit. Then had to secure those wires... Next was soldering 24 pin cable.. Jeez, it was taking ages! I was doing 8 wires per night:) Quick and easy method - taping wires first, then soldering:) Next I had to attach all cables firmly to PSU. Also prepared slim SATA cable for DVD drive. ...and started to attach SATA cables inside power chamber. Prepared power cables for drives... I ddin't really know what I was doing wrong but my soldering iron was going down pretty quickly.. this iron end was ruined after few hours of work:( PSU in the Tower... That was just a try-out:) Then I had to attach SATA and power cables before screw PSU into the power chamber. ...and PSU installed and covered DVD installed... That 24pin cable looks pretty....:thumb: All done... Up and running!!! I started it without graphic card first, in case some soldering went wrong and PSU was going pufffff..... All went ok, it worked fine, so added GPU. Changed back plate first to single slot one. Looks ugly but will be sweet after I install water block. This is GTX285 version, so no hdmi hole. ...and the whole Tower... Sorry for those fingerprints and dust - I didn't clean it after installation. Glamour shots will be at the end of the project!
  12. Next bit to do was to add acrylic piece to top cover of power chamber. Here is a acrylic bit under power chamber top cover. I have this 3 LED strip as a tester, wires pushed in PSU power cable:) This is how it glows.. Here is power chamber partially built, top cover fits perfectly. I put a table lamp under this cover to show how it glows but it was to powerful and it looks white in that photo below This part here is a acrylic piece of the cover that goes on one of the sides of power chamber and covers GPU power cable hole. I added self-adhesive white sheet under it to expose yellow color of the acrylic. Now, this aluminium part on top is the one I painted with matte black spray paint. Here is one side of power chamber, just to show how it aligns nicely with L shape support, both powder coated ..and Tower itself... well.. frame and few pieces of power chamber.
  13. Cheers! I like your project too! Cool desk, my missus would never let me do sth like this in our house
  14. After few weeks I received my Tower bits powder coated. It was all beautiful, I had to take picture of every single bit:) I played a bit with light to see how front panel will look when lit up with leds.... See yourself guys, Colours look really nice. All main pieces were coated satin black, where 3 main panels - side ones and front were coated dark grey - very similar to satin black but still a bit lighter to show the difference of those top cover bits.
  15. Happy Easter everybody! I found a time to add another update today. Next made pieces were those acrylic combs. Glued all pieces with pretty good glue for plastics, Tensol 12. Every single L shape was glued with small 5mm long black tinted acrylic rectangle. Here's how they look: Here is the Nano Tower during "the glueing procedure":) Then it was time to send all aluminium parts to powder coat place. I took all apart and flat packed it. However, before I sent it I had to make "last holes" in some panels. Here's how I was preparing front panel for drilling holes for leds. First I had to place hex shapes in a pattern I designed it in the past. Those aluminium hex shapes need to be painted first, then glued to acrylic ones, then to front panel... Here's front panel cover - beautiful.. ..again, two shots of acrylic combs on front panel.... First comes main front panel, then acrylic piece... I made dots in places of acrylic hex shapes to drill holes for leds... Then I drew lines in holes in top cover to see where I need to drill holes for leds again... ..and aligned led strips to make marks for holes... ..and here how it's going to look like under the panel:) As you can see, led strips will be under the main panel cover so you won't see leds it selves, they will light up the panel right next to every edge. I think it will add a nice touch to the front panel. ... holes drilled.. like a Swiss cheese:) Those 72 holes for leds that come under the combs was the hardest part... Cage had to be modded for this part in left bottom corner comb... Last photo - Mobo's I/O panel - middle one in the Tower - also had to be finished before I sent it to powder coat. I cut out those big holes for mobo and graphics card. Also added long thin hole for graphics card back frame.
  16. I had to "trim" two of all four columns in main frame. Why? I noticed a bit difference between them and when I installed acrylic 10mm thick bottom panel I noticed this sucker started to shake a bit. I don't know how I haven't noticed that before, but looks like 0,8mm difference between two columns made a huge impact on stability of the whole Tower. 10 minutes with file and sand paper put it all down and Tower become stable as a rock:thumb: Now even all panels lined up better than before. So it looks really good, almost perfect;) I love to put on all panels and look on corners, they look so cool:) This one here, rear left has to be modified cause this is the corner where I'm going to cut out long hole for peripherals cables, like graphics card cable, usb, etc. That is why I had to use one more screw on the top of it, cuase lower one will be cut off... This is the corner where you can see I drew the hole that will be cut out. And just a few photos of all 4 panels installed on "naked" frame... ..last photo.. I love that "dramatic" filter in my camera... Tower coming out from the darkness.... ================================================================================ I got more bits cut out on CNC - they had to be perfect so couldn't do it in hands. First thing after I received the package, I unpacked it all and took it to the bathroom to clean it up. I gently took off the protective film and washed every single piece, then dried it one bath's edge. Even with lights turned off, all acrylic pieces looked amazing... So here they are... Lots of shiny bits:) Some will build a nice reservoir cover for my "viewing chamber", so will be used for front panel... ================================================================================== After few days here is another update! First, top piece of "power chamber" - I made this small change before and used this new piece of acrylic that I showed before. It looked nice after I mounted it. However, I was thinking about it and realised that I may have problem with it, after I install quick-release connectors. I needed another change in plans - problem was, those quick-release connectors need a bit of force to be plugged in. I had a feeling that pump stand is not strong enough to keep the pressure on the top piece when plugging those connectors. So I had new idea how to solve this:) I added second long piece of alu to hold top cover. Then I realised that this nice yellow acrylic under the top cover will look nice only when removable piece from pump stand will be perfectly aligned. And that could be very hard every time I put rear main panel back with the pump stand into the Tower. It could be always uneven, looking odd. So decided that this thin long gap with yellow acrylic will be permanent. I had to trim one piece of cover to make space for reservoir and third smaller cover that will be screwed to those two long aluminium supports. This third piece would be "mobile" and match the shape of the second "not moveable" piece. Well.. see it yourself, cause its hard to explain;) This is the final version of the pump stand with third smallest alu cover-piece... I screwed it to those two long supports... using all my nuts:blush: I need to buy some more... Here is the whole thing - you can see three top cover pieces, two screwed together with middle acrylic piece, and third one, the one that comes with pump stand. It looks pretty cool, now imagine it will all be painted black, so those edges will be less visible and all will look nice:) I bought this nice anti-vibration foam and cut it to size for the pump. Looks pretty cool... Look what a mess I made in my attic My wife wasn't happy after she saw it My new invention - I mounted vice on my drill press:D What I also did is I cut out hole for PSU and CPU cable in top power chamber panel and put some edge rubber cover, or whatever its called... Other thing was to cut out some of the aluminium from top panel for power switch and USB socket. Old fashion drilling action:) Final result - fits perfectly:) I also made a nice support for leds under top panel - simple and functional. I also have made a cover for hole in left panel of power chamber - this is where GPU power cables will come out and pump will have its outlet connected to radiator. It also covers cables to led switches in the rear panel. This is a first stage of it, not finished yet, I'm only showing you the idea how it will be mounted... I also bought a nice yellow temperature lcd monitor-display... Last thing - I drilled and installed cable holders - this is where GPU power cables will come out from the power chamber, so they must be held in place... And for the end something nice to show - please have in mind this is only a mock-up:) I just pushed those rings into this one support, it all looks wobbly and uneven, but.... I loved the look of it, so wanted to share:) That is all. I hope you like this update and please stay tuned for next time!!!:rock:
  17. Here are photos of some items - water cooling bits. First, fantastic quick connectors: Now, these are small 2 pin connector I'm going to use with all led lighting strips. These will make taking case apart much pleasent. Now, SMD yellow led strip - 4 meters!!! Also some UV leds, cable and huge banch of 3mm yellow leds: Here's two photos shows the tube I bought - yes, this is orange, yes it is not yellow. Let me explain - yellow tube under UV light looks like... acid-green. This orange tube under UV light looks like... sweet deep yellow. That is why I will use orange tube to get nice yellow effect. You will see, it will be fantastic!... Well.. I hope... :eeek::worried: Now, I've noticed a small "glitch" with power chamber top panel acrylic piece - I used two small screws to keep it together, but one of the ends was sticking out a bit. This end was to thin to drill a hole in it, so I had to re-do this acrylic bit that goes under top panel of power chamber. Without any more words, here is a new revision of this piece:) It goes under the panel in this position. It was time to give attention to side panels and their decoration bits:) These here are long 5mm strips of black tinted acrylic. I cut them up to small 10mm pieces and will use them as separators in side acrylic "combs". Second photo shows those long strips next to those pieces. Here is one "mockup" comb, I built it to show you how they going to look like. Mind there is still white cover foil on them, which I wanted to keep till I actually glue them all together. Second thing I made from black tinted acrylic are 4 corners. Sounds strange, but here's what it is: each corner of rear panel will have black cover which will be screwed to the panel and will also be a base for six L-shape yellow acrylic elements. Those elements will create those corner "combs", as you could see previousy on some of my sketchups. Acrylic corners are screwed with one M4 screw that keeps the rear panel to the frame and two smaller M3 screws that hold those corners mounted to the panel. Here are few shots showing them, first - whole panel, second and third - bottom and top corner... ...and here is rear panel with that black corner, standing sticked to the "mock-up" comb:) It looks great in reality, better than on photo, believe me:) I can imagine it will look even better when the panel will be coated and that comb glued... ================================================================================ Another day of work... I had to measure and install standoffs for my little mobo, so "tried on" my mobo tray... You can see it fits nicely, not too tight or anything:) To make points for standoffs I used a match and hand cream:) Also, here you can see how the pci-e slot goes along the line of power chamber. Graphics card will be about 2mm from the panel.
  18. Time for another update. Top panel. It is made of clear acrylic, 10mm thick piece of plastic If you don't have router or laser cutter and all you have is dremel with small cutting wheels, then your work with 10mm thick acrylic will be full of pain, sweat and tears But, after few hours spent on this I finished it and pretty happy with the result. Basically after painful cutting holes for dvd and top fan, I measured and drilled 4 holes for top aluminum cover. Of course I used my famous threaded insert + soldering iron trick for mounts. After few minutes with hot solder iron tip, I had this:) Threaded inserts in the hole! I know, dvd holes i a bit "funky" in left top corner, but no worries, it will be covered with dvd aluminium cover. Like this:) If you noticed, there are black lines drew on each corner - that is where I needed to file this acrylic panel. Corners of the NanoTower will be cut off and flat, not sharp like regular square. Now, I had an idea how I'm going to light up the top panel, even for a bit, so here it is: I fabricated small yellow acrylic piece that will go under the top panel. It has longer corners for mounting holes. Also cut out small piece of mesh, which will cover the hole in top panel. Its a bit dirty on that photo but its after drilling in acrylic, acrylic powder was everywhere This is how they both go under the panel. You can also see I had to cut out more acrylic on both sides for power button and USB socket. Here are few photos with sun light going through it... Then I drilled and using small M3 button head screws I mounted mesh, yellow acrylic piece to the top aluminium cover panel, so it looks like this. This acrylic panel will be spray painted matte black when the other bit will be done. I came up on a small problem, but solved it quickly. Both, top and bottom acrylic panels supposed to touch top and bottom aluminium panels, but there were M6 screws on its way on each corner. I don't really wanted to cut out holes in acrylic to hide those screw heads. So I ordered some countersink screws... Problem.... Solution... Result... Nice and clean, exactly as I wanted it to be. Now, I decided to re-do my motherboard tray, now it looks liek this: Next, I finished all mountings for power chamber. I had this L shape alu profile, so cut out small piece, cut off 1cm along the edge so it would fit in next to the acrylic piece under power chamber top panel and riveted it to the sides. Here, those two screws are holding top panel. If I need to take off top panel, I simply unscrew them with hand. Easy peasy...:thumb: Now last thing I did lately. I finally mounted top acrylic panel to the Tower. I changed the idea of using some locker kits and decided to use two screws that I can unscrew by hand. Easiest way possible. I drilled and threaded holes in top aluminium panel... Both sides... Then I drilled holes in top acrylic/alu combo panel... ..and added two screws. Job done:clap: As you can se below, screw goes easily through the acrylic panel to the aluminium frame under it where the hole is tapped. I like this solution. NanoTower with finished power chamber and properly mounted acrylic top panel.
  19. Now, the pump stand... Again, this was done in hands, with dremel and files. A LOT of work.. believe me... Main idea was to make simple, light frame/stand for the pump with reservoir. I went with my old design from the Cube - the one with single radiator+hdd frame/stand, that means circle rods and plates. So I gathered few pieces... Using circle aluminium rod I was going to make small "columns" for main aluminium plates, mounting them together with 40mm long screws.. SImple.. screw goes into the rod... I measured dimentions and drew them on alu sheet.. Few minutes with a dremel in my hands and I got these.. I love the deep of field of those 20mm 1.7 lens:) Rough cuts were going to be polished soon... Quick mockup without screws and holes:) ..and ready product.. first piece of course... Pump will be mounted on it with velcro pads to reduce vibrations ..and the stand in the Tower... Now, let me explain the whole idea. This is just a first piece of the full stand. What will come next? This is going to be interesting, I can tell The WHOLE idea came out from the way I am going to build the water cooling loop for graphic card. How? Here you go: I need to make it easy to install / de-install, so I need easy access to the whole loop. It is "impossible" to fit hands in this small Tower case and disable the loop without making a mess and disaster, right? Right.. but not exactly:) I am going to use quick release fittings sets in two places: before GPU block and right after GPU block. Both sets will be easily accesible in the left side of the case, right behind the left window. Why do I need them? Because I have such a small space to manouver with the loop, so I have to make it in one non-flexible loop. That means I won't be able to get to the every single compression fitting in the loop without draining it, BUT to resolve this issue I will be able to disconnect graphic card (block) from the rest of the loop: pump, reservoir and huge radiator! Isn't that great? All those items - pump with reservoir and radiator will be built in one fixed piece. With three easy moves I will be able to take all loop out without making a mess - this design is very hard to achieve, believe me, I was planning it for a last 2 months... So 3 simple moves will be : taking the left panel away, disconnecting two sets of quick-release connectors and taking the rear panel away! Now, last explanation - pump with the whole stand and a piece of the top power chamber panel will be mounted together to the bottom of the rear panel, right between the inlet and outlet!!! Yes, all in one piece!!! Take a look on the sketchup with the pump stand and the piece that attach it to the rear panel. Now, this is the top panel of power chamber. It is cut in the middle (actually I will cut a bit less, like a rear left corner so I could pull it out from the case from the back of it) This is how it goes in the left panel of power chamber - it slides between top edge of that left panel and L shape aluminium profile corner on top of them. This sketch shows how it goes in the case. You can see ther two "go-through" adapters that will have two quick-release fittings sets screwed to it. So, when I'm going to install it, I will push the whole combo in and screw in the rear case panel, then simply connect quick-release fittings together with sticking two tubes form the gpu block. Here you can see how it looks from below - you can see the pump stand with that long alu "arm" that goes up to the top panel - that is how the rear piece of top panel will be mounted to the whole pump stand. I will also cut small piece of yellow acrylic to fill out that gap between two pieces of the top panel and light it up with yellow leds. Acrylic will also go with the whole thing outside to the rear of the case. ...and last image: shows how it goes out the case. Mind there is no rear main case panel there - it will be screwed to that small L shape on the bottom of the pump stand. ...and here in the case... That's it. Mistery solved:) I hope you like the idea of how I'm going to solve the tight water loop problem:) I think it will work great. Well, in this kind of small case there is no other way to do it actually. There is no space to let me get my hands in and unscrew fittings or any other way to dismantle the whole thing. I'm not an expert in Google Sketchup tube drawing, but I spent a bit of time on trying to visualise how the tubing will run in the Tower. Just two simple sketches to show how it will work... Of course there will be two sets of quick-release fittings installed on top of that power chamber panel, but didn't draw them. So, I basically made exactly what I planned on sketches, added bottom plate which contains small piece that bolts the stand to the rear panel right under the radiator, long vertical piece to mount one piece of power chamber top panel to the stand. Here's how it looks right now:) "Head" of this thing goes right up to the surface of power chamber: This is how it looks inside of the Tower: To make it all right I had to trim that L shape alu profile on the right from the pump stand. I trimmed it on the whole length cause it didn't look "nice" when I only cut out small piece at the bottom, where the tubing will go from the top to the right radiator inlet. Well, to make it short - it's like I wanted:) Now, I decided to go with fluorescent yellow - Helios - color acrylic. It looks like that: This piece goes under that smaller piece of power chamber top panel. It will have that two pieces of aluminium on top, leaving small gap, where yellow acrylic will be light up with leds. I added one small detail - one more cut line in it to make it more interesting:) This is how I planned it on sketches: ..and this is the execution:) added that L shape profile that will cover "contacting edge". Left side cut out - this is where the reservoir will stick out alter on... Here how it looks inside the Tower: Second thing is fan controller. Tricky part was to squeeze it between right square rod and radiator fan that will come on left... I measured it up 3 times.. and drilled the holes.. all came out PERFECT! Now, bottom acrylic panel. 10mm thick stuff!!! My dremmel sweat like a strongman cutting this thing. After 10 minutes operation PSU hole was finished... Now, another thing - I decided to use two switches for internal lights and front panel. I'm using white led switches. Measuring, sketching, drilling and a looooooot of filing:) They will be attached on right side of the case, bottom part of the rear panel. What I also did is I cut to size round mesh for cover that I'm going to paint and install on rear radiator. Here's the radiator that I will be using - EK triple XT: ...and here is the mesh cut to size and on the radiator... It will be screwed with small M3 black cap head bolts. I don't have any idea yet how I'm going to paint this mesh, but I think it will be some kind of hex shape pattern. Next thing - side panels. Basically what I did was I measured up and drilled holes for rivets in side panels. It was pretty hard, cause the holes had to be in exact same place on top cover and main panel, so I spent few extra minutes to make sure holes are all align perfectly... To be honest I hate this kind of job cause there is no second chance, if you screw it up, you need to cut new panel... But it all went well, I didn't have to re-drill any of the holes so they are all fine:) First I marked holes on top cover, then drilled them. After that I aligned covers on side panel and started making marks in the drilled holes... Here it is, top covers landed on side panel... pen in my hand.. no breathing.. steady... point. This one here is the side panel screw hole, one hole on each panel ended up half uncovered, so I will have to file a nice hole around it, hex shape hole, to match the theme. Rest of the holes are under covers, so I just drilled them through. I attached covers with small M3 screws for now to keep them together. All holes drilled and cleaned... Last thing tonight - some water cooling compression fittings show! Of course I couldn't resist to unpack every one of them, so here it shots:D This one will go to pump outlet... ..two of these will go to radiator These two will be mounted in top power chamber panel and will route the tubing to the graphic card block... These two will help redirect the tubing with quick-release fittings to go around the reservoir... This is beautiful water temp thermometer which will be installed in one of the reservoir holes, then to nice temperature gauge...
  20. Another update. After I had done main structure I took some time on sleeving all the cables. Extensions mostly. After that I spent some time on desinging side panels... Top panel was a bit more tricky... Then I decided where I'm going to put screws in the side panels - it was important cause I had to mark holes in inner panels to get space for nuts behind the main panels. After a while main aluminium panels arrived and I started to align them and drill holes. As you can see the align perfectly! I love when it happens, but sometimes things can get a bit nasty - this time all fit perfectly and I was really happy:) I also cut PSU hole in the bottom panel... Those side panels went out beautifuly, hex window holes were cut on CNC. Here si a hole for slim dvd drive - it will stick out in top panel, but it will all be flush so only a thin long hole for dvds will be seen outside:) Look how nice those panels are aligned... Then the horrible work started - threading the holes... there were so many.... I also designed and cut out front power chamber panel which holds SSD and HDD drives. Before dremel touches the alu... ...and after some dremel love Just a few more photos of side panels:)
  21. All tools I use for all pieces are dremel, wireless drill or drill press, hand files and sandpaper:) Rods were ordered to be cut to size, but I had to file them down 2mm - it is hard to get aluminium in perfect size you want. I ordered it from 3 different sellers on ebay and all of them always have +/- 3mm margin of missalignment
  22. As metioned before - power chamber. It is a section of the case where PSU and water pump will be installed. From here all the wires will spread all over the case, powering every part and all lighting leds. I made 3 of 4 panels for this thing. Also made two main L shape profiles which holds left panel (one below the left window). On the photo below you can see this left panel. Now, two other BIG things I made: top panel with huge hole in it - for fan exhaust and access to cables plugged to the mobo. Of course you also can see that small, 13mm deep gap on the front - that is for dvd that will go up to the main top acrylic panel. Here is the hole for CPU water cooling radiator. Now some photos of each side walls of power chamber. As you can see I tried to make it all very precise, even when making all these parts in hand, using dremel. Here's rear element - it also has small 2mm gap to align with front panel. And here it is - mounted into the whole thing: I measured and drill holes for PSU in the bottom case panel. To show it easier I put PSU gasket to make it more visible. As you can see I changed the layout of the elements in power chamber. PSU in no longer along the case, it will be mounted in the front part and pump will end up in the back, near radiator fans. Now, just take a look how those two power chamber panels aligned.. I cannot believe it! How did I manage it, I will never know;) All parts of power chamber were made in hand, using dremel and files... hours.. hours of work....