Amodedude1

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About Amodedude1

  • Rank
    MasterKeys Clacker

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  • Location
    Im in america but from italy
  • Interests
    pc modding, BMX

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  1. I am located in the US, Philadelphia, I just had a chat with a live help representative, and am now filling out an eRMA request. ..... I can't wait to get my PC back up and running!
  2. What do you mean by the below 80%? At full load, yes the 5870 is demanding in terms of power, and I will be overclocking once the system is fully built, but that is one of the reasons i chose this power supply. It has plenty of headroom,plenty of amps available, and a good efficiency. I was under the impression that this power supply is most efficient when it is under a high load? It might draw more power but it is doing it with a high efficiency. If what you're saying is that I'm not going to be drawing enough power you have to consider that I am going to be water cooling the system, possibly with two separate loops (not sure yet on that one), plus all of my lights, fans ( cosmos s case), optical drives, and other doodads. Tested the purple line and got nothing. Thank you for that bit of advice. It really sucks to have parts that are DOA. such is life. (its okay, I still have cooler master's back, their a great company)
  3. Hey everyone, I am in the middle of building myself a new system. ( I've been without a computer of my own for over a year since I am at college) I have my case completely disassembled since I am painting it and decided to do a test run of my system since I bought an open box motherboard. I built everything up, plugged it in, flipped the switch and nothing. No power, the psu fan didn’t budge. Also, when I plug the power supply in the light on the back doesn’t light up. I’ve tried different outlets to no avail. I also tried to test the power supply outside of the system by jumping the green and black (the middle black wire) and still the power supply won’t budge. My question is, does the UPC-1100w have a minimum current draw before it will turn on. Does the power supply need to be under some type of a load. If so would it be adequate to hook up some fans and hd’s to get it to turn on? I fear that I am going to need to have an RMA party in the near future and am dreading that. I just took the power supply out of the box last night. Here are my build specs: Core i7 920 (d0) ASUS PT6 Deluxe (open box item =[ ) xfx 5870 cypress XT WD VelociRaptor 150GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR-GT 6GB DDR3 1866 EDIT* : Forgot to mention that I also tested the unit with a multimeter in one of the molex connections to see if maybe it was just a dead/ stuck fan. I read no voltage on either the 12 and 5 volt lines. Help greatly appreciated.
  4. wow, that is strange. Have no idea what the problem could be, but does it sound anything like when you unplug the power from a psu and it discharges? (very very low volume sound)
  5. I believe that is the definition of Bling
  6. On the behalf of a request by PM to post information about this issue just in case anyone else in the future has this problem : PM > Response by me: Hello *** ****, First, it's a pleasure to help you. Second, concerning your problem with the audio hook up, I downloaded a copy of your motherboards manual and looked at page 31. You are correct in thinking that the F-audio header ( Port) on your motherboard goes with the HD Audio cable from your case. Their is no need to plug in the "AC-97" plug at all, as long as the HD audio is plugged in. As for the label that has "Azalia" on it, that stands for "High Definition Audio ("Azalia") Developers Agreement" ( http://www.intel.com/standards/hdaudio/) Don't worry about that either. So basically, just plug in the "HD-Audio" plug into the corresponding "F-Audio" Header on the motherboard and you should be set. I hate all the plugs that come with cases, I believe their should be some new standard to allow users to have a single cable to deal with. For now, however, well have do deal with it. I hope this helps. Amodedude1
  7. coffee eh? LOL Got more then you bargained for on that trip!
  8. Humm.... maybe, if you change the SO for best performance and the SuperPi at Real Time, this score could be better... []'s, Lord What is the "SO" Sorry I wrote in portuguese hehehehe..... SO = Operational System or Windows hua hua hua..... maybe Linux.... []'s, Lord ohh, ok lol, I catch my self speaking Italiano every so often too.
  9. yes, that is a bit strange. My Real power 550 came with a solid 24-pin plug and a separate 24-20 pin adapter. But I sure it should still work as their are little things that stick out and I think they may be to prevent it from sliding out.
  10. No, I meant that it might come in contact with your CPU cooler (Doubt it but possible) and not allow installation of your CPU heatsink.
  11. Word. Or,a harder way, is to try to find the CMOS Jumper and move it to clear, wait 10 sec and put it back.
  12. It looks to me as it would work. No review links for that mobo that I could find. I also had the Blue Ice, Not pro, on a 478 Intel setup, and found that it was a bit tricky to set up with the hooks, which looks like it works the same way as the DFI and pro ice. you're looking at. ( with the hooks.) However, I would keep in mind that your CPU heat sink may interfere with the cooler if it is too big. Can't see it being a problem, however, if you use the stock heat sink from your CPU box. Just look at the picture Also, Nice motherboard choice. DFI is the best in my book. They always use high quality Japan capacitors and the like. Although, they could have given the mobo a black PCB but oh well.
  13. guys, guys, I'm surprised, you really don't know? Thats ok I'll let you in on it. hehe Well, the reason for the extra 4 pins is to supply additional voltage to the ever growing power requirements of modern PC parts. It helps supply additional voltage to your parts, mainly your memory and chipset. Don't get me wrong though. A 20 -pin power supply in conjunction with with a 24-pin mother board will still work and will usually not cause any power issues. However if you run sli on that 24-pin mobo and use a 20-pin psu, will be having some serious crashing problems. the 24-pin hocks up directly next to the 20-pin plug on the mobo, they are so close that their cannot be any type of clip to hold them together. Don't worry about it falling out, as it fits in the plug nice and snug. Nope, it's mostly on newer mobo's. For example > This One < Definantly not an older mobo, it's for the P4 Core 2 Duo extreme edition. (not old by any strech)