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About blue.solaris

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  1. Looks good. Wood is a good insulator. A metal box would probably work better.
  2. To add to my list of hidden or additonal costs for peltiers: - If the electricity in your area is unreliable, (I get a lot of brown outs), you will want to have a UPS. With multiple powersupplies you will either need a big expensive UPS or one for each power supply. Having your main powersupply on UPS, but not the peliers would be a very bad thing.
  3. What did you mean by that? Are Peltiers expensive to run? If you really must have it, buy, don't build. I'm assuming your talking about the water block right? Off the top of my head, some of the hidden costs. - Someone else has already mentioned the extra powersupply. - Peltiers generate more heat than they take away from the processor. Your watercooling setup takes that heat to the radiator. To help the peltier work better you need some combination of bigger radiators and more fans. That gives you more noise (which you may be ok with). The heat from the radiators has to go somewhere, and it ends up warming up the room the computer is in, which starts to defeat your cooling goal. Now your air conditioner has to work that much harder to remove the heat from the room. More money - unless electricity is free for you. - Things with moving parts eventually break. That includes pumps. A watercooled system can get away with no pump for a while. With a peltier the water will be boiling before you know it. In a closed loop something has to give, causing a blowout. If you are lucky, all you have is a mess. On the other hand, maybe you are replacing a videocard or what ever is down stream from the leak. My suggestion to buy vs. build was for a peltier+waterblock. If your goal is to have a supper high bench mark, a peltier will not take you far enough. If your goal is to have a stable 24/7/365 machine that is reasonably fast, put the money you would be spending on the peltier, extra power supply, and your additional electrical costs for the next year into a faster processor. This is just my opinion. Don't take my word for it. Do your own research and calculations.
  4. MM has a point. To be sure whats going on you probably need a second opinion from a different probe. CM and others sell surface mount probes that might offer more meaningfull readings.
  5. No, I meant thin. The k is silent or I am just a fat finger typist. Waffer thin is the way to go.
  6. Your temps looked high, until I noticed they are in fahrenheit. Have you tried it with Q-Fan disabled?
  7. Thanks. What I was really hoping to see was the mirror attached to the case panel. I wonder how you will stick it on, glass is so heavy. Also, many of your designs are so intricate and detailed. Do you use CAD software to plan out your work.
  8. Making a good water block is much harder than you think. Especially if you want to add a peltier. The first thing you should to is a lot of research. Google can help you find many articles to read. Forget about melting pennies. It is illegal, and a lot of work, and more importantly, they are not pure copper. If you are not going to work with pure copper, use aluminum. If you still want to make your own after that, you can get copper bar at Metal Supermarkets - they have two stores in FL. A dremel will not be enough. At minimum, you will need a drill press and end mills. You will need a tap set for cutting threads for fittings. Not a regular tap set, but one for plumbing fittings - they use a different size thread compared to nuts and bolts. If the copper is not perfectly flat, you will need a way to machine it flat, and then make it smooth. For the radiator, heater cores work very well and are inexpensive. More googling will find many articles on that - many give the part number to order from the auto parts store. For the peltier idea, I suggest you get some experience with plain old water first. Peltiers have hidden costs and may not be worth it to you. If you really must have it, buy, don't build.
  9. Can't really tell from your post if just changed the MB and are seeing these temps. It could be the thermal interface between the cpu and cooler. Did you throughly clean both parts and then apply a new, think layer of thermal paste? Some brands of thermal paste need a "burn in" period, where they need heating and cooling cycles to really work best. Go to the manufactures web site and check it out.
  10. Excellent, looking forward to those. The class looks frosted where it has been etched. Is that the case or is it just my eyes?
  11. Can you show a picture of how you mounted the glass to the case? Thanks.
  12. Ya, but he said (a couple of posts up) that he as a 9800pro. They start at $44.95 on the DD site.
  13. I have 4 but I am thinking of adding a HD cooler, so more to come.
  14. If you are worried about the aquagate being enough for your cpu, mb, ... and the pump too small for an extra rad, why not get 2 aquagates and divide the work.