RaptorFury

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Posts posted by RaptorFury


  1. most of the newer psu's are designed for full tower cases . so i will say yes . but with extra cables = more wire management and harder to hide wires ...

    a good recomendating psu is a cm real power 550 or the igreen psu's from coolermaster . i havnt tried the igreen but i know from experience the 550 is one :) of a psu ...


  2. again i really dont think it would as it is a beginner style water cooling not for hardcore . theres allways more to just hooking up and goin ( run and gun ) with water cooling . the main reason y i say to wait on water is mainly because noob water coolers dont have that feel for tempature control and requires a lot of time and patience to hook one up properly . the hyper 6+ may have the same style but its definetly in a class of its own for cooling , i currently got it on my pops pentium d 805 dually and it holds his temps @ round 33 idle and 44 full load @ 3320 mhz with the fan being temp controlled ( running this mode will have higher temps on full load but its quieter ) @ full throttle on the fan i can bring that cpu to 3.9 - 4.0 gighz and hold the temps in the high 40's to low 50s on full load .. have you tried running the case with out the side panal ?


  3. if you new to water cooling i stay away from it for the time being .. a good cooler that i used was a hyper 6 + on a 6400 @ 3.4 gighz and it kept my temps in the mid 40s on full load ... but it does require you scrapping the orginal mounting set up cm used ... now hitting 3.8 gighz is a tall order and these lil bad boys get fairly warm even on water ... the auqa gate i feel wont fill them needs when cm makes better air coolers ... i look into the new Cooler Master GeminII if you got the room , or the Hyper 6+ .


  4. maybe make it taller too .... by lets say 5 inches . then it be Perfect hight . If Cm built a case with just side panals and a front door with no mesh no glass just plain would allow Modders a lot more flexability on designs . making it taller would again help out with more room and more flexability on those Water cooling set ups you could accomidate a water cooling set up ( component Water cooling , not them all in one set ups similar to the Aqua gate )


  5. Me personally as a modder my self i would preferr an all steel case yes its heavier but its more durable to the riggors of modding . and maybe a model with out the Mesh side panal nor a window just a plain side with a plain top nothing added ... i would do almost anything to get my hands on a 830 ....


  6. i dont know how the Extremepower 600 watter is but i do know the Real Power 550 is . as EsaT stated its all depends on how you got the rails distrubited thru out the entire computer . a good rule of thumb is to try and keep the cdroms togther and not share any power with main power hungry components . Hdds if you using sata they have thier own power plug but if you are forced to use the 4 pin molex then again dont share it with power hungry components share it off the cdroms power these are not used very often and in retrospect dont consume that much power Mainboard power should have its own power plugs and not shared with anything anyways . video cards Should have a Dedicated line just for those cards ONLY if you need to use a molex 2 pci-e connector then NOTHING should be on that set of Molex's . you can tell me what is REQUIRED to run a video card till you blue in the face it comes down to it IS the Psu capable handling that card . My recomended Power requirement is 450 wats with at least 25 - 28 amps on the 12 volt rail a,d the Cm Real power 550 doesnt have 25 - 28 amps on the 12volt rails but it instead it has 3 rails of a combined load of 48 amps continuous load so techinically i can run my system with out any issues ( which i do ) or By ati Standards i am below the requirement and my cards will burn .....


  7. i dump the Asuks and go with Dfi or Msi 975x boards or even the Evga Nforce 680 chpiset .. i am currently running the msi 975x and its screaming fast .... and get rid of that THERMALPUKE psu ( i never cared for these Products even before i knew about Cm ) , if you want a good decent psu get yourself a Cm 850 Here or a comparable Psu that built by Good manufacturers ......


  8. i am goin to go with ID on this . myself if it was me i would change out the unit to a aircooler ( a good one ) then return that unit to coolermaster as an rma . again water cooling is not for noobs . it takes a lot of understanding on how it works ..... it could be water is low it could be the pump not working correctly , it could be the rad is plugged up . to many varibles to consider . and you will TORCH your comp if you continue to let it get higher then 65 c ........ i am not mad or upset . so please dont take it as such .


  9. water cooling is not for everyone . have you checked to see if the pump is working ( its the black thingy on the cpu ) you should feel a slight vibration . if not then it could mean that the actual pump is gone . now if you have no clue whats goin on before you possibly harm your computer take it to where you bought it at and ask them to replace the Water cooling to a Good aircooling solution . I would tell them either a Hyper 48 , or the Hyper 6+ as a suitable replacement ...