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About ice_cubed

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  1. I saw this case at NVIDIA's launch for the 8800 and 680i. Their cases had a window and green led fans - a little different from the description on CM's site. They were also using another vendors CPU cooler with a green LED fan. It looked good in person.
  2. Have you tested this? I haven't but I don't think it will work. Power and reset buttons for ATX powersupplies are momentary on buttons. They only close the circut when they are pressed. Holding the power button for 4 seconds will do a soft off. I expect the same thing to happen if you short the power header on the motherboard.
  3. Looks like you are well on your way. You may get some ideas from this case:
  4. I have attached a 120mm fan to a Hyper6+ with a home made adapter. It cooled well, but it was huge. You may not like it that much after you try it. I have also attached 92mm fans without any special adapters. I used clear silicone to stick the fan on. The kind you find in the plumbing section of a hardware store. It securely held the fan in place, but was also non-perminant.
  5. If you have your memory at 200mhz, and it is DDR400 memory, then it is not overclocked. I would look at the other settings. Which memory should you get? Some motherboards are fussier than others. Find out what other with your board are using. The motherboard manufacture probably has a forum of some sort. I have a board that works great with one pair of OCZ DDR 500s, but it won't post with a different pair of OCZ DDR 500s.
  6. If you are going to mount it on the back have a look at the Swfitech Radbox.
  7. I have a BIX-II in the original stacker. Mine is mounted in the front. It takes up 6.5 bays, which might use up too much space for you. The half bay that is taken up can still be used by a small device like an aerogate. If you don't mind doing some cutting, put it in the top of the case, if there is space.
  8. Aluminum should not etch if it is anodized. I like Mothers Mag Cleaner for cleaning up aluminum, but it may brighten the finish more than you want. I use car wax to prevent finger prints. It works great.
  9. If you can't make it work with the bolts it came with, use nylon bolts and nuts. Use a nylon bolt that is 1/2" longer than the original and trim off any excess after the cooler is installed. They are strong enough for a job like this, easy to cut to length, and non-conductive.
  10. From the same vendor, I expect their 600 watt psu would have better components compared to their 300 watt psu. Are you saying that better components don't make a difference with respect to heat produced? As long as the air is cooler than the surface being cooled, are you saying that more air passing over a larger surface doesn't cool better?
  11. I think I have upset you, and now you don't want to talk. Sorry, that wasn't my intention. It all depends on the quality of the power supply, I could run a good 300w one in my rig and it'd be fine, or I could run a cheapo 600w one and it'll be unstable. The 300W PS came in a Cooler Master case. If Cooler Master is including cheapo power supplies in their cases, marketing should take note of that. Sorry, but did you read that in a joke book? The efficiency of the components determine how much heat it puts out No, that has come from my own observations. I suppose I have never owned a power supply that offered 100% efficiency. Discounting a power supplies wattage by 20% has been a good rule of thumb for me. Many posters have said that price is important to them. How much does efficeincy affect price? If giving up a little efficiency meant a much less expensive power supply, would that make the power supply much more attractive to buyers?
  12. My electrical bill would look a lot better if I could get away with a 200w PS. With my P4's, 300w means no overclocking and a max of one PCI card for a stable system. My HTPC system crashed all the time until I put a 350w PS in. Having more power supply than you need helps the power supply operate cooler and quieter.
  13. There isn't one power supply for everyone. I need two different power supplies. For my desktop machines (the ones I put together for friends and family) I want a rock solid unit that will be working just as well four years from now as it does today. For a single core processor, single video card, one or two hard drive system, 400 to 450 watts is fine. Longevity and stability count for everything. Appearance has no value. The cover goes on the case and often never comes off again. Price: I can get a 400 watt PS locally for anywhere from $25 to $100+. Tight budgets usually dictate something in the $50 range. For a performance/gaming machine I want clean, ripple free power. Modular is important to me too. Any cables that can eliminated helps. The power supply should comfortably handle a dual core processor, high voltage ram, a single video card with an 80 watt peltier/water block cooler, or dual video cards, and two to four hard drives. A twelve volt pump often fits in that picture too. The PS needs to be in the 550 to 650 range. Power supplies often come with an LED fan build in. The LEDs are almost always the wrong color. Either use a non-LED fan, or better, allow me to change the fan without voiding the warranty on the power supplies. I like a plain appearance. Black is almost always best. I never want to RMA a power supply, but if I have to, I want that experience to be painless, and not cost me anything if it wasn't my fault. For price, I pick the unit that most closely matches my needs, not the most or least expensive. Price competitively.
  14. Your power supply is exhausting hot air out the back. If you reverse your fans then they will draw in some of that hot air from your power supply. I don't recommend reversing your fans. Why don't you try it both ways, monitor your temperatures and let us know which worked best for you.
  15. I think this: ... t_380W.pdf is the power supply that comes with that case. Check the pdf for the information you are looking for. Check with the vendor to be sure it is the same PSU.