Craig Tate

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Everything posted by Craig Tate

  1. Not done... but getting Daaaaaaamn close!
  2. Well, I botched my CD ROM front panel trying to make it "thinner": It got sucked into the lower belt cover and smacked around and sanded where it should have been.... ... well, I fixed it last night! I found my spare 5.25 panel, lopped the legs off of it, plopped it on my belt sander (after adjusting the work stop to be lower so that the front plate would not slip under the stop) , and made it nice and thin! Then I used some adhesion promoter and colored the front panel to the same color depth as the others! I now have the front panel attached to the computer, and it was the right thickness, as I hot glued a little piece of acrylic on the inside of the bay cover so that it is positioned right over the eject button. Now, because I sanded down the bay cover, there is a little play in the front, and by pushing the lower right corner of the panel, it depresses the eject button. Works like a champ now! It does not look ant different than the last panel, only that it now functions to allow for the eject button to be hit! YAY!!! The family is about done! I just need to get some decal paper for the BOSS logos on the keyboard, but I may be able to take a family picture of everything by this evening!
  3. getting closer!!! I will have the graphics to figure out... but Mmmmm....MMMM!!!! I like the look of that!
  4. THe fix for this is as follows: You can short out the power line to the 4th unused line (the PWM line). bend a paperclip or a staple and insert it into the top (where the cables insert into the plastic molex) and connect the power line to the 4th line. I have done this on 2 Hyper6+ units. This will put the fan in full speed mode. I'll look for the diagrams of this mod, but it works like a champ! The fan on the Hyper6+ becomes pretty loud though. I agree with the above post that the Socket370's did not put out enough heat to justify the Hyper6+ fan running full tilt. I have mine on FX class hardward, and I actually removed the pin and let the fan run @ stock/low speed. No cooling issues to speak of. I'm not overclocking or anything either, but if I was, then I could easily increase my fan to accomidate the OC using this trick. HTH!! edit: I used the "SEARCH" functionality of this forum (hint, hint) and found this thread: http://www.coolermaster.com/phpBB2/view ... ght=hyper6 Please note the post on Aug 6, it has a picture of what I am talking about.
  5. Updates on the keyboard as of last night: Patient is on the table: Intestines removed. These are the light bars on the Saitek that have the surface mount LED's on them. This is the part that PoMan rocked like a concert! Putting the boards back in place (notice around the edge At home on my workbench: 14 TINY little screws holding the keyboard onto the front plastics: *BAM!* magically they are apart and I have lightly sanded the plastic to give the primer something to grab onto: "hellp me... pleeeeease!" White primer, to help brighten the orange when applied: First coat of orange: "BAAAANNZAIIIIIIII!!!!!" Frikken bug... Why the **** can't they get the hint that wet paint is NOT for resting on??!?!?! Look right next to the flash in the middle, and up to the right a bit... see that little booger with wings... lil punk.... *lightly* sanded the bug out and then reshot another orange on the top to even out the paint. 1st clearcoat: 2nd clearcoat: More later!
  6. Thank you sir! I am hoping to have the keyboard done by the end of week. (fingers crossed). Striping and branding to happen shortly after that, after I get my graphics sizes locked in.
  7. Just a quick update, I took the Saitek keyboard down to Austin for the AustinModder meeting this last weekend! I got PoMan, the rework master over there, to generously donate his skills to replacing the surface mount LED's in the keyboard. No blue for BOSS... the keys all illuminate white now! Looks super cool! But before I go and put up pics, I took the board apart one more time, and I am now painting the external frame OSHA orange (same color as BOSS). I'll be leaving hte keys the silver that they are. After I get the paint completed, I'm going to work on getting the BOSS logo on the keyboard, possibly some striping.... dunno yet. Still experimenting with the layout.
  8. Excellent work bro!!! Cool idea too! I've been tossing around the idea of getting a booth at Quakecon (should it ever actually happen this year) and doing something similar! Let mw know how your party goes, as I am very interested!!!!
  9. Dude, it *may* stay white... I am unsure yet. I painted it white for 2 reasons. 1) Ice, on the rink, is white (not counting the lines and the advertising). That makes white a component color of hockey! 2) I have a deep green candy transparent coat that I may paint this with, and the white base coat gives me max color reflectivity. So... I have a few experiments to try to see how this will turn out.... so stay tuned! http://www.dallasstars.com for more info on the team if you would like to see them!
  10. No no... the mouse *came* with the fan already installed. I just saw the shape and the materials and wanted it to fit into the BOSS theme. I bought the mouse, swapped the blue LED for a white one, painted the outside and then dyed the rubber wheel black. *Now*... it is my mouse!
  11. I'll leave parts of it a surprise, but the base will be a gloss black with graphics applied and a interesting and technically challenging window to cut.
  12. I'll let you know at the completion of the mod, and if I have one left over, we'll figure out how to get it across the pond to you, ok?
  13. YAY!!! The mouse is done! Here is a little trick I pulled tonight. The Rubber surround on the wheel was a clear rubber, and I wanted the opaqueness of a "tire"... so I took the rubber piece off of the plastic center. I then boiled some water in a glass dish, then poured in 1/2 a package of RIT black dye. Mixed it up good, then dropped the rubber piece into the dye. Let it sit there for about 30 minutes, essentially letting the water cool with the rubber in it. I let the boiling water cool for about 2 minutes prior to adding in the rubber piece for fear that I was going to melt it and mis-shape it. But the piece came out PERFECT! Opaque black, and still fits the original dimensions! I need to buy some mouse skates for the oval patches that I took off the bottom, but otherwise it is done! Next is to get a keyboard done up in the same style so that I have all of the accessories and machine matching, then I'll snap a pic! I already have the keyboard, it will be a Saitek Gamer board that is backlit with LED's... so changing the color to what I want should not be too difficult!
  14. Test fit... couple of take aways on the pics.... Mice have pretty tight clearance tollerances on the buttons, and a thicker paint causes these to stick due to the gaps being tighter. *SO* I am forced to file down the gaps to allow for more space, then repaint the buttons and such to fit properly together... but this should let you know where this baby is going...
  15. after 2 more coats of "Smoke" and the 2-3 coats of clear: the top pieces: Pulled the blue LED out of this beastie, and replaced it with a white 5000mcd light. I then sprayed it with a glass frosting so that the light would disperse and not just spotlight. These pics were prior to me spraying the frost.
  16. Pulling that mouse apart was a PITA!!!! The top over the IC is the blue LED that lights through the vents and the fan. That will be what I replace with a white or orange one. 6 screws holding the internals together.... cripes... Finally... broken down: These parts will be OSHA orange: and these are with the first layer of smoke paint: I plan on 2-3 more layers of paint on these parts.
  17. Hey guys, I figure since CM was the reason this machine exists, I could not believe the I neglected to update this forum with my next round of fun for BOSS.... I felt it necessary to pull out some of the little things left undone on BOSS, and here are two of the things I have picked up on to complete this last weekend. This was one of those little things that I did not do in the end... the chrome will be smoked with the MetalCast smoke that I used on the middle stripe, and the red color will be painted over with the OSHA orange. There is a little fan inside the unit, as well as a blue LED that I need to replace with a white one to keep it inline with the rest of the mod. Guess I could go orange on the LED too... might esperiment a bit on that route: While I work on the case build out on DST, since I am out there... figured I'd quit slacking off and get these little ones worked out too!
  18. A busy night in the Tech-Daddy garage tonight! I felt that the paint had cured and hardened enough now for me to reassemble the frame: Nothing major, but I did mount in the 120mm Coolermaster white intake fan, to be sure it would mount properly! Lit it with an external power supply to make sure I did not have it tweaked or out of round, nice and quiet!
  19. ya know... the difference between living on a ventalator later in life and not: I can believe I went as long as I did without one... wow! Put the final coats of paint on a couple of pieces: And started clear coating a few other pieces: This was the back panel that had the port holes that I bondo'd over: I'll pop a few more coats onto the pieces tonight and let them be ready for tomorrow hopefully!
  20. first coat of paint on some of the framework. Starting off with a semi gloss white. I have clear that will be added later...
  21. Hehehee.... thanks Lancer! progress pics on the updates: This is actually the front of the case frame. As you can tell, I hated the location of hte piddly 80mm fan... so I made it a 120mm fan!! Here I am getting the parts ready to prime. I'm using a white primer to brighten the white color coat that I will put on in a few days. first 3 items with two coats of the paint, I have not put the clear coat on them yet. Rear panel where ports *used* to be!!!
  22. Nothing really exciting here... just trying to get a smooth finish on the rear, and cover up those blasted port holes. I built up the bondo, and put a tube of paper in place to try and round out the fan hole.
  23. thanks qoon... I've seen a few college cases, (tenneesee comes to mind), but nothing as detailed as I am planning. So, the luh-vuh-ly teardown pics... A Centurion CAC-T02 in fashionable black... Take a good look, cuz it wont be in this state for long! Note in the fan grill, the power/front LED's/Reset wires running out and to the right to escape thru a hole in the case frame.... WTF were they thinking??!?! The lines are CLEARLY visable thru the front of the grill. The sides of the bezel are stepped, and that is giving me some ideas... This is pretty cool, but I can se why it was not implemented further... one screw allows for *all* of the pannels to come off! Everything stripped on the case... and now the case stripped and disassembled! I did some drilling/dremmel work tonight on the back panel to get the hole for the 80 mm fan, and get that crappy punched metal location off and out. I'll likely perform the same thing but on the front of the case frame, where the fan performs intake duties...