Craig Tate

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Everything posted by Craig Tate

  1. auctioned off the computer last night and raised $3500 for the Foundation! Thank you again CoolerMaster for your assistance on this project!
  2. KICK :)!!!! I did not even know that Scythe made a 100mm fan option!!! ... _spec.html I'm on this like white on rice! Thanks for the tip... but I don't have an answer to your question, sorry!
  3. The DSF (Dallas Stars Foundation) case is different than my DST (Dallas Stars Tribute) case. 2 separate cases, DST will fill likely complete shortly, since I have DSF out of the way.
  4. That is the hard part, It is a 100mm fan, and only came in one color. "Yes" I could pull the blue LED's out and use a multimeter to get the voltage for the line and try to customize the color to green... but with limited time, I decided to leave it be. Now... maybe the end user will want me to change it to Green. In which case, I'll sit down and do it up properly! But I needed to get this case to the Stars as I was already late on delivery. Thanks for the reply!
  5. Item will be auctioned off March 5th at the Dallas Stars Casino Night!!! (link here: Coolermaster Mystique 632 Coolermaster 120mm green LED fans Coolermaster Hyper6+ Heatsink EVGA 680i SLI motherboard Intel C2D 6600 2GB (2x1GB) Crucial Ballistix Tracers EVGA 8800GTX x 2 in SLI Seagate 750GB "perpendicular" SATA hard drive Tagan 1100w PSU Altec Lansing 5.1 FX5051 speaker system Turtle Beach HPA Surround Sound headphones Logitech Multimedia Keyboard Logitech G5 "Battlefield 2142" gaming mouse MNPCTECH 120MM blowhole Hyperkore Laser etched windows Thermaltake Gamma Pad Build log is located here I would like to take this time to thank Coolermaster for their support of this most awesome of causes, children. The Dallas Stars Foundation is the action arm of the NHL hockey club, Dallas Stars. This case will be auctioned off on March 5th, with *ALL* proceeds going straight to the Dallas Stars Foundation to help the children. By assisting in this worthy cause, Coolermaster has chosen not only to help me with the execution of a vision, but has also given it's resources to help area North Texas children. I can't thank you enough for being one of the first companies to step on board and offer assistance... that allowed me for more traction going forward and offered the mod credability in it's early stages. This willingness to support shows the kind of stand up organization that you are. I thank you.
  6. Yes, to both questions. I have good, detailed pictures of the disassembly that I will get edited and posted. Currently, the worklog is hosted over at , specifically, I'll get the detail pics up as soon as I can.
  7. Well guys... a T10 is about as close as you are going to get for a proper sized tool to remove the screws. Unfortunately I stripped the head out of one of the screws (screws are *very* soft material... aluminium?) trying out the different torx and hex heads... Had to use a micro screw remover. Got it out now, but now I have to locate replacement screws! When removing these screws, *gentle* and gradual pressure is the word. "Quick twists" will remove the head as the screws are very soft material. Also, to anyone removing the front hinge plates, the supports are directly screwed into gearing at their base (under the covers on the top and bottom of the unit), do yourself a favor and have the proper tool at the ready.... an 8mm open end wrench. The gears are assembled to the chassis by using a phillips head bolt that is actually part of the bearing race assembly. It feeds through the case and through to a locking bolt that is 8mm. Use the wrench on the bolt to loosen the lock on the bolt. Do *NOT* try to twist free the bolt using the phillips head of the bolt. Again... soft metal here and head stripping will be the result (yep.. I killed that one too). SO... if you have the proper tools (Torx T-10 and an 8mm open end wrench, and a smaller, standard Phillips screwdriver) then patience will allow you to disassemble the unit. Now, I have to see if I can get a replacement bearing race bolt, but I'm not betting my house on it! But live and learn from my pioneering on this case! "Use the proper tools" and dont force it. When they say "aluminium"... they mean "All Aluminium"!!! ONe other note... during disassembly of this chassis, I noticed something that I wanted to commend CM on... something that I had not seen. I popped the rivets on the top panel to remove it, and once I popped the top, I saw something on the top of the 5.25 bays.... 4 rubber insulation pads at the top of the drive bays that put an absorbption layer between the drive bays and the top of the chassis! I had never seen that, and that kind of detail is to be commended! I have not pulled the bottom yet, so I do not know if the same pads are there as well... but I just thought I would share with everyone... nice job CoolerMaster!
  8. I'm in the middle of a total disassembly of the 632, and the button top, socket head screws are of a mysterious size. They are on the top and bottom of the hinge pieces on the front. They attach the front curved aluminium to the supports that go back to the enclosed gears. I thought they were a T10 socket, which is close... but not close enough (I've already stripped one of them out) metric and SAE HEX sizes have proven fruitless. I have already resigned myself to having to tap out the stripped heads after I attempt removal using the T10 (which is the closest size that I have found, and it has successfully removed 1 of the bolts), but does anyone have *any* clue what CM was using on these screws? And... are replacements available? If not... then I'll head over to my speciality fastener hardware store. But would much prefer to get OEM if at all possible. Anyone?
  9. Ok... so I found a replica hockey puck that is made out of soft rubbe, and I bought 4 of them. drilled a hole in the center and put a screw into it: I then got really tired of my drill press! I cut out 12 identical holes out of acrylic: sandwiched 3 layers of them together (because it was the only clear acrylic I had), glued them with weld-on: used my rotary tool's "multi bit and bored out a single hole in each to embed a green LED: and mounted them to the bottom of the case: I plan on routing all of the LED wires to 4 RCA jacks that will be mounted in the bottom bracket. Center is power, outter is ground... should work like a champ! 4 power lines coming out from under the machine, terminating in to 4 RCA jacks, that will then feed into 4 RCA plug receptacles mounted in the bottom bay... something like this: Also, here was the last pic I took before a botched clearcoat screwed up the finish.... I will now likely need to mask over the graphics, scuff the paint, and re-shoot the black again to get it the proper ammount of gloss... the Clearcoat just wrecked the finish due to himidity increasing the night I shot it... And this is the top piece:
  10. You're intending to leave active wires without insulation? I would suggest insulating those always regardless of voltage being low.And remember to give that ankle also resting time. Year ago in summer I sprained couple toes (very propably breaking bones) and those were little sore for certain stress still half year later... well, maybe hitting same toes to chair's leg from very slow walking speed three months after spraining didn't do them good, at least I couldn't walk for couple hours after that. Oh yes! Apologies making is sound like it was bare wire! It is 18gauge stranded, full jacket, and I used heat shrink on the solder joints. No worries! Thanks for the reminder though! And *yes*, I ma making sure to do all of my physical therapy and rehab this ankle properly. Being a diabetic, and thusly being more sensitive to foot problems, I am very cautious about all of my recovery steps. Talk more later!
  11. Apologies for the lack of updates. Ankle recovery is nearly completed! (YAY!) ... I took my first "long walk" with the dog in 2 months tonight, everything felt good! I've had a hard time standing for long periods and that has cut severly into my ability to work in the garage as I would like... So tonight, after my walk, I went out and went to work on the feet. 2 nights ago, I Had done some prep work that consisted of using my adjustable hole cutter and cut out 12 1/8" thick, 2" diameter circles. I am using 4 soft rubber hockey puck replicas as feet for the case. 4 rubber feet, 3 discs per foot... the acrylic layers sandwiched together and layered with weld-on, with a screw through the middle going 1/2" down into the rubber puck. I then burrowed a 3mm wide hole into the layers of acrylic tonight, and built out 4 single 3mm green LED circuits. Each puck's acrylic layer will have a green LED lighting up the space between the puck and the case. Green (obviously) for the Dallas Stars. I then has a 2" silicone "washer" that is going to lie between the bottom of the case and the tops of these LED's... hoping that this will absorb a bit of the shock of movement, as well as setup an insulating layer electrically between the steel of the case and the 5v LED lines that will be running under the case to a central point. I lit them all up and they look great! Took some pics but I am a bit too tired to crop and post... this case must be done by Nov. 15th. Obviously sooner, the better. so be on the look out for a blast of updates out of me this comming week and a half! Might just go ahead and bring it down to the Mabry Intel/Dell LAN event and try to get some work on it done there. Depends on how much room I have in the vehicle.... ANYWAYS... more to come!
  12. good work! How do you cool the hard drives with that stealthing job you put on there?
  13. No no no.... this one is going to have to be my contest rig... so everyone *will* know what all is in this rig. I'm not going to have time after the surgery to break out the artistic guns like I was wanting to, so I am going to have to make this rig something special... hopefully it will hold it's own against this talent pool. If not... I've got nothing to be ashamed of! And thanks for the surgery question, it went well. Ran longer than expected, found more damage to repair, but it is all bandaged up and I've been on bed rest since last Thursday. THis is my fist evening to be puttering around the house, sitting at my desk... yay! Hoping to be back in the garage in a few more days working on the final work on DST.
  14. The close up of the "T" is how this guy cut out the internal "spacers" for the R and the A's, so that I will have the little letter spacers to be glued in place once the acrylic goes on... YIPEEE!!!!!!
  15. It starts with an "L" and ends in "aser" And if you find someone who has one, you treat them very nicely! I wish I could say that I had cut those, but time was of the essense and the opprotunity presented itself... and I ran with it! My design, their work up in CorelDraw, their laser. I cant wait to show you guys the side window! It is going to look SO cool!
  16. Well... we will see what all I can put together on this mod before the time period expires. This one is going to have to be my fighter in this competition, so not alot I can do to hide it! But, at least I'll be able to throw my hat in the ring! By the end of this thing, I may have a contender... dunno yet.... Weeded out the graphics last night. Going out to the garage tonight to prep the other two panels for a white primer. I've got 5 shades of green out in the garage that I need to test and see which one comes out the closest. Also need to clean up my work area! More tomorrow I hope!
  17. Nope... not this one.... I mean, it is cool and all... but it is not what I planned on working into competition. All that aside, I may *not* be able to participate in this year's contest, as I may be going in for foot and ankle surgery next week. That will keep me off my feet for many weeks while that heals up... We'll see what the doctor says, as well as what the time span is for the mod contest. I definately want to compete if I can!
  18. *huff* *puff* *bloooooows the dust off...* Please pardon my "less than gracefull re-entry back into this mod. Several things came out of a trip I took reciently that have allowed me to progress a few things on this mod... So, without further adeiu... I scuffed the top and sides way back in March. I also painted the pieces way back then too! The two uncut decal layouts... Robidas being trimmed up for decal removal. These are waterslide decals. Which means that when I remove them, they are completely emersed in water. Since I print these on an ink jet, I must shoot a solid layer of clear coat on top of the decal print job. If I dont get compete coverage... well, you can likely guess what will happen... 1st time, I did not use enough clear sealent and the colors bled out... Whoops... transparent is just that.... you need an all white background for phtography like this to work. Also, putting a tranparent decal on a black surface should be considered a general no-no, there is nothing to bring the colors of the picture out. Use transparent only on lighter backgrounds.... I have a friend, and he hooks me up so well.... Now, I also had several completely custom 80mm fan grills and several 120mm fan grills that are patterned after the Dallas Stars logo, incorporating the Star from the middle to make the fan grill.... Those are high res shots printed straight on the vinyl.
  19. I attached mine using thick, doublesided mounting tape. I then hot glued a small piece of acrylic into the lower corner of the drive bezel that I was attaching, so that the hard acrylic was directly over the eject button. The thick foam of the mounting tape has just enough give/flex in it to allow the corner to depress and allow the acrylic to contact the eject button. If you are doing a mesh front grill, the white of the doublesided mounting tape would contrast badly and stick out. Recommend using black velcro tape. This provides the spongyness needed to allow the cover to flex, but better matches the black of the grill. Also, you will likely have to file/sand down the corner of the bezel over the eject button a bit more than the other corners, to allow the contact to the eject button. I had to sand my edges down on the bezel cover to give the proper clearance for the foam tape/acrylic "bump" to do it's thing. Hope this helps!
  20. kick :)! I never knew about those FAQ's!!!
  21. I'm running a RealPower that I modded into an SLI unit, and I am running it on 6800GT's... those things consume more power IIRC, than the 7800/7900 series cards. And if the PS can hadle those two beasties, then I would think that the 7800/7900's would be easy cheesy for it as well! Good luck, your milage may vary, offer not available in all area, void where prohibited, dont run with scissors, you must be at least 18 years old....
  22. The Hyper48 fan is a special beast in that it's sides are cut away to provide for additional airflow intake. You can replace it with another 92mm fan, but if you wanted to get the exact same fan type, you will have to open talks with Coolermaster for repalcement.
  23. publically flog me... I have no idea what meds I was on when I posted my last response... Hyper6+ should have been Hyper48... two completely different fans, and cooling units. I have a hyper6+, but have not opened it yet. Apologies... I am a dork....
  24. The A8N-SLI Deluxe is 3 pin. The 4 pin PWM is pretty much only an Intel thing. I can say that because I have that board... and I have 2 of these heat sinks! To get the fan to spin faster you have to do what the above post states, and that is to short the PWM line with the power line. It will run at max... and you will have a good blowing fan. But the noise you may not like.