Brok3n

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Posts posted by Brok3n


  1. hey! I work at best buy ;)

    Your right, the majority of our staff is very incapable of answering any major questions, mostly they hire people around electronics to simply know that 1) it's a computer and 2) a service plan can be purchased. No joke.

    I work on the tech bench and things aren't much better around there either, I had to show the new hire yesterday how to install a hard drive :|


  2. The "green" window actually is clear, it has a green hue to it, true but if you browse the coolermaster case competition forum and look at them, they are perfectly clear. Plus modding your own window is not difficult at all and is cheaper than buying one so if you really don't like the premodded windows than do it yourself, you'll have fun.

    I agree with the lock problem somewhat, but to me putting a lock on a coolermaster case is completely ruining the beauty and sleekness they put into the front of their case designs. Perhaps a stealthed way of adding a lock is an option but I prefer lock-less.

    If your just concerned about the door swinging open and not people getting in then just do what I do and stick a piece of tape over the door like the one that comes with the case when they ship it and it wont swing open during moving to LANs.


  3. It probably has mostly to do with the amount of airflow in the case, if I remember correctly the Cavalier series utitlizes an 80mm fan in the front for intake and a 120mm in the back for exhaust. By changing these fans out for ones that offer a higher CFM then you should increase the amount of cool air flowing through the case and across the processor. Coolermaster generally ships low rpm, quiet, low cfm fans with their cases which will work fine in some cases but not all cases, especially not with processors that notoriously run hot such as the barton cores.

    I would recommend a Thermaltake Smart Fan II for the front intake, it adjust speed based on temperature and can put out up to 76CFMs. For the exhaust I would recommend finding a 120mm that can exhaust atleast 80cfms, more preferably. This will help up the airflow in that case substaintly and you should notice a nice temperature drop.

    Also, if your well versed in the use of a dremel, adding a 80mm fan to the side panel blowing directly over the processor heatsink/fan would help drop temperatures even more.

    I hope that this helps you out, I had to do something similar in my wavemaster case to get my barton to run at an acceptable level.


  4. Yeah they have gotten many good reviews but I had to RMA two from newegg for going out on me, not sure what the deal was. Ended up going with the coolermaster unit. Hopefully your unit will be functioning well because the design is certaintly very space saving.


  5. I have an aquagate installed in my backup system and just like anything else, it has to be properly installed and maintained correctly to get optimal temperatures. I don't understand how an Aero4 is giving you better results, it shouldn't be possible. My backup system runs a Pentuim 4 at 3.8GHz and the aquagate keeps it at a nice cool 45c on load, keep in mind it is a heavily overclocked processor so 45 is extremely good.

    Perhaps there are other issues within your system that need to be accounted for or the system itself has not been installed properly. I agree that their are other water systems out there offering better peformance but generally at a greater cost or require a more advanced custom installation. For a unit that comes more or less ready to go out of the box the aquagate is an excellent solution.

    Again, I would check all the connections and read the manual carefully to enure I had everything installed properly and you are getting proper contact with the cpu as well as other major components. An Aero4 should be in no way competition for a Aquagate system in any computer configuration.

    Also what is your system temperature? Although water cooling is ideal for silent operation, their still needs to be a good amount of case airflow in order to keep overall temperatures down. Case temperatures will still affect cpu temperatures, water cooling or not.


  6. pin orientation usually shouldnt matter but on my Abit mobo it acts screwy sometimes so try flipping them around and plugging it in that way (where the pin that was in the right hole is now in the left) if you know what I mean. That may work.


  7. I got my x-connect in today, it installed just fine in my wavemaster and all the rails are rock stable even under heavy use, better readings than my old antec true power believe it or not. You wouldn't believe how much space this PSU saves you. Also - all the cables connect just fine, no chance of them coming loose.


  8. oh great, Wavemaster2...looks like it's time to start saving up. My friend has the Centurion 5 and I love it so I can only imagine what you guys have up your sleeve for the 6. Coolermaster's latest products always make me more excited than other campanies because it's something NEW to look at, a NEW design, not something iv'e seen somewhere else just redone.


  9. I have to agree to an extent although I bought my coolermaster knowing that the cooling was going to have to be modded. The stock cooling works fine for someone just throwing a system together and leaving it at that but for somebody, such as myself, that pushes everything in the system beyond it's limits - the supplied cooling leaves so very much to be desired.

    In reference to the wavemaster, 1 80mm exhaust fan is not going to cut it, especially one with a low cfm rating such as the one supplied. Also, in order to exhaust more air you need to remove your top usb/firewire/audio panel, this may not bother some, but it bothered me since I have few USB ports in my motherboard as it is. Would these problems stop me from buying coolermaster again? Never, their products are always of the highest quality and I know that they are built to last. I just believe that the cooling solutions offered in some (not all) of their new case lines should be re-evaluated.


  10. Cooling in the wavemaster out of the box is subpar at best, if your running an overclocked system. But it's very easy to improve airflow, just need to switch out the 80mm fans with higher cfm fans and install a top fan instead of the usb/firewire/audio panel. I have my wavemaster down to roughly 22-25c ambient temperature. You can easily swap out for a black/silver combo, just gotta keep in touch with Bryant and im sure he'd be more than happy to help you out when he has extra parts around. As far as changing the 80mm in the back, thats really going out of your way for little payoff, just put a better 80mm back there and you'll be fine, that's what I did.

    As for the XP-120, my friend also has a wavemaster with that heatsink and the Asus Deluxe P4 board, works like a charm.

    And for the cable managment: This has been the easiest case I have ever owned to hide cables in because of the removable motherboard tray, it's easy to hide cables behind it.

    I LAN alot as well and have never had a hard time taking my case around, plus from my experience of trying out both the Thermaltake Tsunami and Coolermaster Wavemaster I prefer the wavemaster hands down anyday, it's just constructed better. Plus Iv'e never had problems with Coolermaster tech support as opposed to the three or four instances where Thermaltake has been a little less than cooperative with me.


  11. Yup gotta continue the good comments, he has been the best customer service rep I have ever delt with. And I have talked to just about all the major companies at some point or another. Bryant was the friendliest and also the most eager to see that what I need was taken care of in a professional manor. It reflects good on him and it reflects good on the company he works for, I choose Coolermaster products for quality but now I choose them for quality and peace of mind that Bryant will be there to help me out if their is any problems.