bob808

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About bob808

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  • Birthday 12/08/1972

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    Tacoma, Wa, Earth

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  1. Did anyone read all that? I know it was a lot to go through, it was a ton of work but it was worth it
  2. System specs- EVGA x58 3-way sli Classified Core i7-920 overclocked to 4.25 Corsair dominators running at 2005 MHz with 7-7-6-18 timings SLI EVGA 480's Asus Zonar Essence STX soundcard Corsair hx1000 psu Intel 80gb ssd 2x WD veliciraptor 300gb in raid 0 2x WD RE3's 1tb in raid 0 cooling- cpu block- Heatkiller 3.0 copper gpu blocks - Aquacomputer aquagraFX chipset block- EK x58 classified pump- swiftech mcp655 variable radiators- one xspc ex360, two xspc ex240's fittings- bitspower resevoir- ek pump-top Misc- monitors- 30" LG W3000H (2560x1600 center main screen), dell 24" 2405FPW (1920x1200 in portrait mode right-side), dell 24" U2412M (1920x1200 in portrait, left side) Keyboard- Ducky 10 key-less OCN branded mech keyboard w/cherry browns mouse- Mionix Naos 5000 headphones- SennheiserHD650 speakers- Altec Lansing mic- Audio-technical Finished pictures on the first post
  3. I decided to split the 5 molex power connections between 2 cables. I started out with a 4-plug strip and cut off the 3rd connection and soldered the wires together. I wanted the extra length between the 2nd and 3rd connection anyway. Then I sleeved the cables when the plug ends were off of the wires. Using a diagram that I drew up earlier, I inserted the cables into the correct places in plugs. One down, one to go! These last couple cables have to be all black, as I have used up the 30m of orange sleeve that I ordered. No biggie as these will be on the back side of the motherboard tray. I finally got my last cable sleeved! Here it is on top of the other one- Well I got all the wiring figured out. It turns out I had 2 wires in the wrong positions. One on the fan controller power cable, and the other on the stock hot-swap power cable. Luckily for me, it wasn't too hard to get straightened out. I have tidied up the wires on the backside of the motherboard, and everything is working like it is supposed to
  4. Here's a picture of the sleeved fan controller. It had two molex power connectors which came together in a 'Y', so I consolidated them into one connector. a couple of fans in the process of getting their sleeves- Here is the start of a single cable with four power ends on it (2 sata and 2 molex) for the hot-swap caddy that I have installed. These are the sata power ends. sata and molex Plugs put back on and extensions soldered- more wires! I have used up all my orange sleeving except for about 6" and have used even more black. I'm guessing that I have use more than 200' of sleeving thus far. I had 30 meters of orange which is gone now. I went ahead and put in a 140mm cougar far which I painted into the hx1000 which I also painted. Here are a few more of the HX1000. I still need to get some lable stickers printed for this- Thats it for now. I still need to make a molex power cable with 4 ends on it, one for the soundcard, and a sleeve a couple small misc cables, then I can wire it all back up and hope it works haha. How should I test the psu before I hook it up to the cosmos 2? I'm thinking I should test it on one of the cheaper computers I have laying around first. Those two 8-pin cpu power cables were a pain in the butt! I still have some work to do, mainly making the cable to supply power to the molex plugs I have on the back side. I also have quite the mess going on the backside of the motherboard tray that needs tidying up. It's getting there though :thumb: I need to 'train' the wires a bit better as I have some tangling/weaving in and out in the pci-e cables.
  5. Here are some pictures of my sleeving that has been in progress allllll niiiggght I recieved my other pachage from Nils yesterday. it's beautiful! :wubsmiley Well, there goes another warranty..... I had to make the hole bigger.... My first ever attempt at sleeving different patterns, the 3 and 1 bundles are pci-e 6+2 pins- Here's the tools I'm using. I'm just eyeballing the heatshrink lengths.... I had to make the hole even bigger! and found some stuff to make the edges soft- I'm working on the 24 pin cable now. I couldn't find a guide for how to get a stuck pin out of a 25 pin plug lol. Well I stayed up all night sleeving this bad-boy. Marathon sleeving session! I've got some more pictures to share with you guys- Here are all the cables I got sleeved. It took me like 20 hours ... I painted the half of the case that I removed also. I'm going to get a couple custom stickers made for it. I'm going to go sleep the sleep of the dead now, until I have to wake up for work tomorrow. At least I feel like I got my weekends worth of modding in!
  6. Leak testing in progress. I had a leak where the one of the pipes go into the top gpu but have it sorted now. Looks good for the last couple hours. I'm dying to plug it in and load up some Diablo III but I figure I'll leak test it overnight and power it up in the morning. Hopefully everything is kosher. I've got everything hooked up, but I haven't turned it on since I tested the board yesterday. Here are a couple pictures showing the leak testing and a couple new stickers I got today :thumb: What is this?
  7. Hey guys- I've been busy with a variety of things these last few days. My Mom is in town, she just came in yesterday, so I had to clean the house up, which was way overdue anyways haha! I also spent Friday night over at my girls house. Then yardwork.. the list goes on. I did manage to spend a good chunk of time on wiring up the beast yesterday. For now, I am just using the stock cables that came with the Corsair AX-850. I plan on getting some mdpc sleeving and making custom length cables, but haven't even ordered it yet. Since I am not going to be using the built in fan controller that comes with the Cosmos II, I thought I might as well get rid of that huge bundle of cables for the fans and the fan leds. I took the top panel i/o off the case and just unpluged the cables. There was a couple lines of hot glue holding them together, but they pulled right off. These are the cables that are left- much more managable! I will save these, but am glad to be getting this large mass of spaghetti out of the case- My X58 EVGA Classified mainboard doesn't support USB3 so I coiled up the cable and leave it tucked up under the top panel. Next I start making a custom cable for the hdd hotswap cage that I have installed. Here I have shortened the length between the two four-pin molex connectors. This cable is nowhere near long enough, so I also cut off the psu end and added four more molex connections and another length of cable, graciously donated from a bag of cables left over from an HX750 that I am using in a different computer. I forgot to take pictures of this, but it turned out nicely. Here is the pretty side of the computer all wired up. A close up of the wiring for the 5 hot-swap hdd bays- Motherboard all wired up. The AX-850 only has one aux cpu power cable to plug in where as the hx1000 that I was previously using has both. The AX850 actually has both cables (for cpu aux power), but one of them plugs into the same socket for the pci-e cables, so you can only use either the pci-e cable (which I need) or the second 8-pin cpu power cable, not both. A little dissapointing, but not the end of all things. Here's my first attempt at organizing all the wires on the backside. This looks very messy to me, even though I took a lot of time, trying to get things nice. This is not final though, as I will be making a full custom length cables, so it should look alot better eventually. I do not have the funds to order the sleeving, wire and necessary tools at the moment though. Installing two Western Digital RE3 1TB hdds into the lower hot-swap cage. I had to take the WD velociraptors out of their nice heatsink housings to make them play nice with the upper hot-swap cage. Here are my Intel sata2 ssd along with the 2x300 gb velociraptors that I have had ever since they were cool haha. I've got the 2 velociraptors in raid 0 and also the two RE3's are in raid 0 also. So I have got everything all wired up, and have re-filled the water loop and am leaktesting again now that everything is installed. I have yet to turn on the system. I am a little nervous, but I always am upon the first power-up. Today, I want to get the piece of acrylic notched and polished to allow for the pci-e cables and also have a little bit of paint touch up to do as I somehow managed to scratch up the paint on the top radiator. I will also turn on this sucker` and hope that nothing smokes haha. Down to the dungeon to do some modding! After drawing some cut lines, I drill some holes with my old cordless Makita Using my jig-saw, I start cutting the acrylic. First I cut it down to size- Then I cut out the fan grills- Here's where I had to get a bit creative, as I don't have any type of bender. I grabbed two scrap pieces of granite that has strait edges on them, then sandwiched them where I want to bend the top of the piece. I used a heat gun to heat up the plastic, but I couldn't get the acrylic hot enough to bend with the gun. Out comes the Map Gas hand torch which gets plenty hot. I used the framing square to bend the edge down once it was good and hot. and held it there for a couple minutes while it cooled down. I got it to this point then left to go over to the girlfriends house. The bend is a bit over bent past 90 degrees, and its too long and wont fit into the case some trimming is in order, then I'll put it in and see if I like it before I do any beveling and polishing. It turned out not too bad, although I think I will paint it black.
  8. Here's the newely painted radiator back in the case- I ran over to Best-Buy and bought a cheapo mouse pad as I need some vibration damping material. I almost cut up some of my nice japanese mousepad, but then reason prevailed haha. I took the bottom retainling plate off the res/top and used it as a template- After tracing the plate, I use a razor blade to cut them out. Then I use some spray glue to join the two pieces together- I put the pump retaining plate back on the res/top. Then I placed the foam pad and wrapped some electrical tape around the body of the pump to help insulate vibrations further. Here it is sitting in place- I turned the fans around for better air pressure in the case. It's good to know that I can remove the fans (barely!) without messing with the radiators. I'm not sure how I will orient the fans in the case yet, I will have to do some testing and see what yields the best results. Taping the white leds to the bottom of the onyx slab for more light testing. This looks pretty cool too! This is using the red and white led strips from Modelers brand (no cathodes). A close up showing the grain of the onyx. Doing some wiring for the amber lights that I am putting under the motherboard. These will connect to a couple pins on the motherboard that pulse (fade on, fade off). The board came with a monster air cooler that had a couple leds on it that used this connection. I previously used the same connection to light up the red connector on the ek chipset blocks to make it pulse (again, 2 leds). I am attempting to use 9 leds from a NZXT led strip. I'm not sure if the mobo connector has enough juice to power the nine leds, but I am hoping it will be fine. Shrink wrap insulation around the positive wire- Another piece of shrink wrap to cover the extension solder connections- Splicing into the middle of the nine led strip- Done and tested- For your information, the nzxt led strips can be cut to any desired length and will still work. Just make sure to cover the cut wire ends to prevent any shorting. I decided to stick the white leds back-to-back and cut a channel into the bottom of the onxy to I could stick the lights up inside the slab, shining sideways toward the edges. Hopefully this will have a cool effect. I split the lights to go around the res/pump. While cutting the slot, The piece of onyx broke along a fissure that was existing, and fissured along the length of the notch. Bummer but not the end of the road. Luckily I work with natural stone slabs for a living and know how to fix it :thumb: Here is the break glued back together with epoxy... With some weight on it to keep it flat, as it naturally wants to bend downwards a little bit. After the break was glued back together, I epoxied the led strips into the bottom of the slab. the epoxy I used- Testing the light strips- close up This looks like a "oh nooo!" face haha. I'm thinking this may be my new avatar. What do you guys think? should I keep my current one? Testing the lights. This is the final result. Not what I originally envisioned but it looks cool none the less. and I am really pleased with the color matching, especially with the xigmatek fans :thumb: overall ambient light that will be inside the case, also have the mobo lighting attached which will hopefully pulse using the mobo header. That's it for now. and I still have more modding to do today. I'm hoping to be leak-testing by tonight, but I am not sure if I will make it.
  9. Here we go with another update! I started off with this NZXT mix fan controller. I needed a fan controller that didn't have knobs that stick out, and I don't really like the looks of the touchscreen ones. This one fits the bill nicely, and it has orange leds (along with other selectable colors). It supposedly handles 30w each for 6 channels. The sliders go from 40-100%, so if you're looking for one that allows you to turn off your fans completely, look elsewhere, although I'm not sure why anyone would want to shut off fans completely. Using screw drivers to evenly pry off the sliders- Primered and painted- I took everything out of the case, as I need to do some more cutting, and dont like little metal shavings all over my components. Next off, I wanted to cut a couple more wire management holes in the motherboard tray, below the motherboard for usb cables, front-panel sound cable, and power/reset wires. Here they are drawn on the tray. I also cut the hole for the drain beneath the power-supply area. drain coming out the bottom- The wire-management holes I cut are a bit too small and will need some filing/sanding to make them right. Here's the mostly empty case- I decided it would look good, and painted the top 360mm rad orange- I also took off the xigmatek stickers off the top fans- I looked at the motherboard and I really was not happy with how the clear-coat paint looked on the EK motherboard block and the Heat-killer cpu block. So after a long debate with myself, I took them off for re-finishing. I wetsanded the EK acetal chipset block-tops using 400-800-1000-1500 grit sandpaper. I did the same with the heatkiller brackets to remove the paint. Here's what they look like after I dried them off- The ek acetal tops look grey instead of black, that's why I clear-coated them the first go round. I'm going to try some armor all this time- After applying armor all with a cloth- Bingo! :thumb: Installed- again haha I got some mx-4 with my last order from sidewinder, so that's what I using now instead of mx-2. I 'burned' some paste into the block, and spread some on the cpu using a credit-card as the spreader. I like mx-4. It spreads very nicely and is not too dry like some other pastes. Then I re-installed the cpu block. I decided against painting the stainless black this time. It goes well with the gpu backplates and the shiny fittings. I am so much happier with the look of the blocks now. Before refinishing them, there were scratches in the clear-coat on the ek block from putting in the components and the finish on the cpu brackets left something to be desired also. I was debating weather or not it was worth the effort to re-do them, as I knew it would be a pita. It took me about 3 hours to fix them but I am very glad I did it. My projects always have a way or taking over the living room/kitchen. I've got case parts/components spread all over the house- I don't even want to talk about my basement/work area... What a mess! Now that I had all my copper pipes cut and bent, I sanded them while wearing rubber gloves (to prevent oils from my fingers from making contact with the bare copper) and sprayed them with clear paint, after blasting them with compressed air and wiping them down with alcohol. Hopefully this will keep them from becoming tarnished. Here are the bigger pieces drying off. I went down to Tacoma Screw, and bought a new pair of wire cutters and some brass sleeves/grommets to go around the pipes that come off the gpu's and through the false floor. Here are the brass sleeves sanded and sprayed with clear. Not sure if brass oxidizes, but I figure better safe than sorry. Here, I am testing out the white led strip that I got from modelers brand. The onyx is not all the way down over the lights, but this is not what I was hoping for..... The light is not penetrating the stone nearly far enough and looks too yellow Next I try the red, thinking it will tinge the yellow to orange- This is the effect I was originally going for. But this is using 4 feet of red leds, 2 feet of white leds on the bottom of the case, and two red cold-cathode 12" bars..... Looks pretty slick though, but the cathodes are putting off too much heat, and I think they would be in the way of the tubing that goes down there. Also I don't have a good way of attaching them. They are right up against the bottom of the slab, if I put them on the floor, they dont do anything :worriedsm
  10. I got both of the packages I was expecting tomorrow, today! I got another D5 pump, another res-top (this one smaller), some modelers brand red led strip, and some lovely bitspower fittings. . I already have a pump but I'm getting ready for the next one i guess muhaha I had to get a smaller res-top for clearance reasons, and I figured I would just get the whole unit instead of just the tube as it wont go to waste... These bad boys come in little crack baggies because they're THAT good! After I got the floor installed, I placed the motherboard and gpu's in place along with the res to figure how to locate tubing holes in the floor. My mainboard looks rather wimpy in this monster case. Someone donate a SR-2 or something equally large for me please So I'm looking at all the available space and decide to cut up some acrylic. I had already planned on putting some tinted acrylic behind the res and in front of the ocn logo to tome down the blue light. After making that piece, I decided to make another piece to kind of wrap around the motherboard. I used some mb standoffs to space it about 7/8" off the mb tray. I also cut a notch in it for the 24 pin. Polished up the edges with sandpaper and water, test fit it, and used a sharpie to mark the locations of the standoffs. Drilled the holes and screwed it on. I think it looks pretty neat, and would be a good surface to place a overclock.net sticker.. Does anyone have the link to where I can get one? What do you guys think? I take the floor out so I can mock up the tubing and take some measurements. I had to trim the long tubes on the res/pump end. res/pump hooked up and in approx. location. I had to get a smaller tube for the EK D5 res-top, as there's no room for the 140mm res tube where I want to put it. Here's the 140mm res tube alongside the 100mm tube. The 140 actually fits, but you cant add any water to it because you can't unscrew the fill plug let alone get a fitting on top of the res lol. Plenty of room with the 100m tall tube. Plug for fill port came I decided to redo this top fitting and tube. I'm using one less fitting, and remaking the pipe, this time with a bend in the pipe. I also think I am going to cut off 1/2" off the top of the inlet tube and use this extension fitting here so you don't see this little bit of copper here. The last 3 pieces of pipe are cut! I was able to reuse one thinned down end that was in the scrap copper tube box I still need the other 5 ends thinned down... Got a little stubby 90 fitting and a through-port fitting for the drain line. I still need to cut a hole for it now that I know where it is going... It fits nicely under the power supply. You will be able to access the drain port on the bottom-back of the case, unscrew the plug, screw on a drain hose, turn the valve and drain the loop! Sweet! I thinned down the ends on the last three pipes (man glad to be done doing that. too bad I could not locate any 12mm tubes, it would've saved a lot of time let alone be more leak proof. I'm a bit worried about the forthcoming leak test) and hooked all the pipes up! Here are some different angles and pictures for your viewing pleasure You can see my new and top tube in this shot- I love it! From the bottom- Bottom compartment from back through psu opening res clearance and fill port tube-
  11. I was planning on doing a glowing white acrylic floor, but while I was sitting on my couch pondering the idea, I was looking at my glowing onyx lamp that I made. The lamp glows a rich yellow/orange with some white in it too. What the :), it's worth a shot as I have some onyx left over from my lamps. I took some rough measurements and brought this piece home from work along with some borrowed tools. I purposely measured the piece big, as I did not want to end up short. Arriving home, I took some careful measurements and drew them out on some masking tape. Here the piece is clamped down to a pony wall cap. Also shown is the variable speed Makita 4" angle grinder with a special marble blade. One side cut down- The piece is going to stick up 1/4 of an inch or so above what is left of the false floor shelf, so I draw another line 1/4" back from the cut edge for a 45 degree bevel. Beveled edge ground- Polishing granite/marble is a multi-step process, Cut, grind fine diamond wheel, then with an 80 grit stone, then a 5 diamond polishing pad set using water. The pads are 300,500,1000,2000,buff. They are velcro-backed and use a velcro backer for a 5/8" arbor. Here's what the business end of the pads look like- Bevel polished out and looking nice and shiny Next I turned the piece around and cut some notches to go around the pci-e holder and other little notches. Then I 'rabbited' out a notchon the bottom side where the led light strip will reside- When I test fit the piece into the tray, it was about 1mm too big so I draw another line on some more tape, then take it outside, grind it off and polish it again. Here's the onyx installed on the shelf, in the case. It will be lit up from the sides and possibly from underneath. I already have some white leds, and I ordered some red ones. When lit up, the piece is yellow/orange, and since the case orange is reddish, the red leds might turn the yellowish stone more blood-orange. We will see Let me know what you think!
  12. I am going to be breaking down the case again to do some more cutting, as soon as I get things finalized. I've got all the tubing bent and cut except for the ends that go into the pump/res and the fillport tube. I'm not 100% certain to where the res is going to sit. I still have to sand down the thickness for the last 4 or 5 tubes. I also am going to have to order a few more fittings. I'm a bit disappointed that there is not a nice location to put in my drain fittings that I showed earlier. There's room for it in a couple spots (like either side of the PSU), but the outside trim pieces of the case are in the way... I should have some pictures up tomorrow along with a progress update. I have been busy today, having breakfast with my girl, doing some household chores, and filing my taxes. I did get some more pipe bending done though, and am about to start doing some more modding! I ordered a few more items this morning that I need to wrap up this build and am hoping to get them by the end of the week. I was plugging away over the weekend, but I am going to spread it out over the next few days, since I wont have much new until the parts arrive. Here are some 'keeper' pieces of bent pipe ready for thinning down and polishing. Notice you can see some wrinkles in the bends. These will have to be sanded out too- I use a sander with some 220 grit sandpaper to thin down the pipe ends. Ends thinned and wrinkles sanded out :thumb: I have to break down the case to do some cutting on the false floor and the motherboard tray. Someone PM'd me regarding how to do this (removing the sliding front door in particular), so I will link it here since I didn't really show how to do it the first time. http://www.overclock.net/t/1244408/disa ... t_16998140 If you want to break it down any further, you need to drill out some rivets :thumb: Well, my plan for mounting the radiators to the case is somewhat crude but effective. There is about 5/16" of space between the fan mounting frame and the cooling fins. Enough room for me to drill some holes in them! showing the clearance between the bolt-holes and the cooling fins. Believe me, I was careful not to hit the fins haha! Then I carefully measured and drilled some matching holes into the bottom of the case. Only 4 holes drilled in the pic, but I drilled all eight. I also did a little more cutting on the mainboard tray- I also cut a hole in the top, left, for a fill-tube, located directly behind the 5.25" bays. I installed the bitspower through port fitting. I'll have a matte black plug on the top, and a quick-link sli fitting below to accept a copper tube that will go to the top of the res. After attaching some fans and fighting with the screws that go through the rad frames, I got the bottom radiators attached. When I was done and admiring my work, I realized that I didn't put the copper tube between the rads. I had to remove one of the rads, put the pipe in, then reattach the rad haha- Here's a picture with the connecting copper pipe in place. If this loop leaks anywhere below the false floor, I may have to remove EVERYTHING just to get at it. The pipe looks a little bit crooked to me in this picture, I will have to adjust the position of the rads a little bit. I made the holes in the case a bit oversized so I can adjust them if needed. Looking good! After trying to figure out where to cut holes in the floor for the tubes to pass through, I came up with this idea- Motherboard and floor cut, sanded, spot primed and spot painted, and reinstalled :thumb: The floor with the big hole in it will alow for access to the plumbing below. That's it for now. I did a couple other things, but will save them for later muhahahaha!
  13. OK. I got some more painting done. I painted the i/o shield black on one side- here's before the primer/paint Here's the pci bracket for my soundcard painted, it was fake gold plated- more brackets and a few screws primered- look what the easter bunny brought me :thumb: orange screws for gpu's Soundcard with newly painted slot-cover- Pieces drying in the sun. It was surprisingly nice out today Here's my lapped i7-920 all clean and ready for some... all dry- Motherboard and cards installed I may move the soundcard either up or down, not sure which slot to put it in yet- Does it make any difference? I sandpaper polished the 480 backplates to make 'em shiney and reflective- Here's the back as I have it now. notice the black i/o shield and slot covers and the orange gpu screws- With the door back on, it makes my board look like a m-atx haha. I cant wait until I get the rest of my stuff in the mail this week. Should have some good updates by next weekend instead of these little paint mods- I received a package from Sidewinder computers. They have great prices on fittings and radiators and their shipping is pretty fast too. I got a bunch of push in SLI fittings, a couple 280 radiators, and some thermal paste- The 280 rads are a much better fit than the 240's. I just have to figure how to attach them... :thinking: I got a couple other packages too, one from performance pc's and the other from ebay. No free shirt from Hank at ppcs this time. Maybe I didn't spend enough $$ lol Here's the used 1/2" pipe bender that I ordered from ebay. It cost me $37.50 shipped. I got these from PPc's. NZXT mix fan controller for the top 5.25" bay- EK-D5 140 res/pump top I started the tubing. The 1/2" copper pipe that I bought is indeed too thick to fit into the fittings on the small straight pieces, I was able to stick them into a drill, and grind them down while it was spinning in the drill. It is pretty time consuming. It has to fit all the way in the fitting, and be tight. I messed up the L shaped piece like 3 times, I has to grind it down, and it took me a few tries. one ended up too short, one got messed up when I was thinning the ends... Third time was a charm haha! I decided to run the cards in parallel instead of running them in series, mostly for looks, but I have read a article (on Toms I think) that showed that running multiple cards in parallel resulted in better temps and flow rates. I'm liking the looks of the reflective backplates :thumb: I had to break off these two tabs.. No HDD bays for sure now... I'm going to miss not having an internal optical drive, but will make due with an external. I have other computers in the house that can burn disks, so I'll only have to use when installing games/software.. I think the end look/result will be worth the missing optical drive- I got another tube bent. This one has the right length/angle on the first attempt! Still, I'm glad I got twenty feet of tubing haha. I still have to grind down the ends so it will fit in the fittings though. It will be lower, but I need a hole cut in the floor above the psu for it to go through. This is pretty much what the loop will look like- The tubes will run through the floor and come back up into the res/pump top toward the front of the case. I still have tons of work to do.. but I'm not telling what I still have to come mod-wise although Lane probably knows what I have in mind I need to finish polishing the tubes and clear coat them, take everything out of the case, do some more cutting and modding. I think I am going to need to order a couple more fittings to keep things tidy, and some more stuff too. I am pretty stoked with how the copper pipes are looking. What do you guys think?
  14. Copper gets tarnished by oxidation, caused by exposure to air, chemicals, and/or dirt & oils. The purpose of the clear coat (clear paint) is to seal out these impurities and should help a great deal. It would be important to wear plastic gloves when handling the copper during/after polishing to eliminate oil/grease from transferring from your fingers to the copper before the clear-coat. The alternative is to annually clean your copper with a metal polish like Brasso or Barkeepers friend, or even just a vinegar/water solution. Well I have made a decision regarding the fans. I'm going to keep the Xigmateks in the top (because they look so damn good up there) and use the cougars everywhere else (because they work so well). The cougar orange does not match the build but the blades pop right off easily, so I am going to paint them to match and be done with it. The only thing that still wont match are the anti-vibration pads, and I could always just peel them off, but I don't think they're that big of deal either way. Little update today, my latest order from newegg arrived today containing 10 cougar fans (6x140mm and 4x120mm) and a NZXT 2 meter orange led light string. I popped out the fan blades and I am going to tape off the magnets and little spindle, and paint them Hemi orange so they match the color of the case. I may paint a couple of them white, but I doubt it. I have to think about it a bit more. Oh and a couple photos that I forgot to uplaod earlier when I was installing the 360 rad up top. There were a couple tabs in the way, preventing the rad from sitting flush with the top of the case. These tabs apparently hold up the front half of the front most fan, so you dont have to use screws up front or something. I just bent them back and forth with a pair of pliers until they broke off- Then when I put the radiator up to the top of the case, I noticed that the 120mm pre-made fan mounting holes didn't quite line up, and I had to enlarge them using my rotary tool with a little diamond bit. Time to tape off the fan blades now. I got the fan blades painted last night. After popping the blades out of their housing, I taped off the spindles and magnets on the backside of the blades- Then I took them down to the basement and sprayed them with my Hemi Orange engine enamel spray-paint. I let them dry for an hour after painting one side with 3 light coats, with about 5 minutes between coats. Then I flipped them over and painted the other side of the blades and let them dry until I got home from work tonight. Here's what they look like painted, there is one unpainted fan for comparison- Finally, I removed the rubber sound-dampening pads from the corners of the frames, only on the side that faces the inside of the case, so between the case and fan, they are still there. They look great! I was able to get a bit of work done yesterday. I took all the components out of my sig-rig since I will be moving them into the Cosmos II. Here are a couple shots of the Hal-9000 in the Cosmos 1000 case- As you can see, it was a black/red build on the inside so some changes have to be made. I find the black connector plate for the EK-Classified X58 chipset block and decide to make it my test piece. First I mask it off with some tape- Then I spray it with my Hemi orange paint to fill in the engraved lettering. Next I sand it down to get the orange paint off of the face of the piece. I didn't take any pictures of this... I used 220, 400, 800, and 1000 grit paper, all wet. Well the delrin or acetal didn't return to its original black color and was a lighter shade, so I sprayed it with some clear and that did the trick. Here's how it turned out- I like how it turned out, so I do the same to the rest of the acetal top-half of the chipset block. Here's a picture of it taped and painted- Instead of sanding this one, I just used my fingernail to scrape off the paint before it was fully cured, then I clear coated it. I am pretty happy with the result- These Dominator ram sticks have served me well and are very fast with tight timings, (2000 MHz, 7-8-7-20 stock, 2133 6-7-6-18 was what I was able to get out of them) but the red heatsinks will not do. Using an allen wrench, I remove the top heat-sinks- I apply two light coats of orange to the heat-sinks. After letting them dry for an hour, I put them back on and here's what they look like now- Thankfully, the nickle EK blocks have held up great over the last three years and show no sign of flaking. There is a little bit of white-ish residue in the blocks as you can see in this picture. Originally, I didn't rinse out the radiators or anything before I put the loop into use. I used only distilled water and bitspower tru-silver (silver plated) fittings. I only changed the water two times in almost three years, so the residue is to be expected I suppose. It's probably flux and other stuff left over in the radiators from the manufacturing process. Anyways, it wiped right off with a rag, and was shiny nickle when I was done. Here is the top back installed. This is going to look sharp! This board is almost perfect fo my color scheme as the pci-e, ram slots, and the sata socket almost match the Hemi-orange color :thumb: While I was at it, I took apart my Heat-Killer 3.0 block, cleaned it, and painted the stainless brackets and bolts black, and the springs orange. The black turned out very flat, and clashed with the shiny black waterblock, so I sprayed it with some clear, to add some semi-gloss. Originally, I had the center strip painted orange (the piece around the fittings) but it didn't look good, so I sprayed it black.