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About bronney

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  • Location
    Hong Kong
  • Interests
    Photography, PC Gaming, Fishing, Eating.
  1. Well you have to strip the case to see if that usb port in question is disconnected. And also check to see if your mobo header is working or have the correct pin layout. It's perfectly fine to solder the power button with heat shrink. I love soldering things. The smell of resin just makes me horny.
  2. The only way to test whether your fan's malfunctioning is to plug it into something with an RPM display "while" the controller lets you adjust it. i.e. cool drive 4, aerogate, etc. If you plug it in with no form of control or readout, there's no way to tell. However I'd suggest you plug the 12cm fan directly to a FAN ONLY port as that should take some load (small load anyway) off the ATX header or current supplying the mobo anyway. I personally don't like to plug fans on the mobo eventhough they provide rpm readouts, I like all my juice going to the cpu where I OC.
  3. I am not sure whether MBM has auto fan control so check that if it's turned on. Depending on your mobo, it might have auto controlled your fans plugged into its headers for a particular temperature; which should be fine as long as your components isn't overheating (read the other probes). I plug my 12cm fan in a vantec fan controller and turned it all the way up so the rpm should be around 1200 - 1500. It's still silent as that speed. If you game a lot, I suggest having over 1k for your 12cm fan, and check whether it's auto adjusted when gaming.
  4. lovely rams there sonny I love the gatewatch too but I really try to go subtle with the front of my centurion 5. Still loving it!!! *heading over to check out zerospace's gundam mod* Nice toes in the photo btw
  5. Thanks zerospace and zero's bf hehe. The white balance thing is real helpful.
  6. Sorry to hear that but it's always good to learn something. That's how we always learn at least in the realm of computing. You either have a "problem" and try solving it alone. Or since the internet came, read like MAD! And usually in your case (heh no pun), you'll remember this fix for the rest of your life. I am serious, a week ago I never knew what an air gun is. Read for a week and tonite I am taking that thing apart and upgrading it to something more lethal hehe. You gotto take note of your PSU though as I am not sure it holds with your 6800 and OC'ed cpu in. Without a high wattage PSU, you'll never know whether it's your PSU holding back the OC or the chip. That's if you're under-watted.
  7. Not to be a fanboy here but it's not exactly a "problem". It's just that we all got used to having the cdrom face PERFECTLY flushed with the front with adjustable screw rails. The mechanism of the lock only allows 1 position, and depending on the cd-rom manufacturers' decision on the placement of holes, different brands will have different fit.
  8. Yeah I had that problem but I managed it. The trick is, the locks only works in 1 position. Sometimes though, this means your cd rom would stick out a teeny bit from the front surface (1mm). When you find the sweetspot, the cdrom does lock into place and I can't move it with force. To test whether you have it on the "sweetspot" there're 2 things you can do: 1. get a flash light and shine thru the holes in the locking mech while you adjust. 2. if you arrived and locked, the little secondary "slide lock" should click into place. If you missed it, that little sucker never clicks. Play with the other locks below and see what I mean by clicks. Good luck (I got this case specifically for the locking thing, wee no screws!)
  9. Zerospace, Learn to control your force, you must . Too strong, it is.
  10. Hey, Try combining that molex switch with this: ... cts_id=479 Weeee molex power bra, uh, bar! What I did to my accessories was to cut the wires and solder them together to 1 switch. I only got a few anyway.
  11. Sorry to keep this on and on hehe but those Vantec EZ-Grip molex connectors are about the best accessories I've ever bought for the computer. It comes with a female de-molex tool btw. Super easy to connect and disconnect yet tight. No more sore thumbs, and no more bloody knuckles when unplugging hdd's power and ended up hitting your hand on the soundcard's PCB corner. YAY!
  12. be real careful when you tweak the back hooks. I managed to break a couple WITH the tool even. And you might need to have space pins ready incase you break some.
  13. I cheated sleeving and bought spiral sleeves so I don't have to de-molex. But one thing I found really useful when sleeving is before you sleeve, hold both molexes and twist the wire group 20+ times until they're tightly twisted. That way the group will becomes a cylinder when you sleeve and should not kink out when you bend them and it makes sleeving a breeze. I imagine the vantec kit should included a de-molex tool? Both male and female right?
  14. I also use the Centurion 5 with a total of 10 fans (counting every single fan including the PSU). I would say the mesh front doesn't leak sound significantly enough for me to seal them off. I picked this case for it's subtle look and nice air flow. I use a 120mm CM blue led fan in the back and a Sunon maglev 3000rpm 80mm fan at the front (fan controlled to about 2000rpm). This is the only fan that makes any noticible noise. I agree with Mr. Ninja Miyagi that this case is silent with stock fans. It's so silent when I first got it that I was amazed and had to make sure the front fan's on, heh.
  15. No dude he didn't order it online. He went to their branch in mong kok to get. I don't think hornington do online sales. I haven't come across a single store doing online stuff either in these 5 years here. Why not just take a walk, it's so convenient here.