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Posts posted by PoiZen

  1. No, my system temps are below 30c, and I'm reading the temps via BIOS. I set the alarm to go off at 70c, and it beeps every day. Guess I'll set it at 80 and forget it.

    I was reading somewhere yesterday that if the cpu temp is reporting 70c or higher, it woould be hot to the touch, so while it was running I carefully reached in and felt the side of the HS, it was actually just warm, not hot at all. While the BIOS flash did not change the temp reading, I have now concluded the MOB is for some reason misrepresenting the temp.

  2. Here is what is said to describe the DPS feature

    Dual Power System (DPS)

    The DPS technology is an ingenious design that gives you a power circuit with a total of 6 phases.In a DPS (Dual Power System) designed motherboard, an additional 3-phase power circuit DPVRM (Dual Power Voltage Regulator Module) daughter card is added on the motherboard. This effectively provides a more durable and stable power circuit to sustain a larger electric current of up to 150A.

  3. Thanks for all the sugestions guys.

    I have previously tried them all except for the BIOS flash, which I will try now.

    Anyway, I havnt OC'd the CPU and it seems very stable, even though teh temps read so high. I did get a video heat related malfunction, but I was messing with teh settings a bit. The rig does seem to put out more heat then I'm used to feeling, but I have added an ATI x800, from a Gforce 4, and two 10,000rpm Raptor SATA HD's so I was attributing the extra heat in the case to those.

    The Motherboard is a Gigabyte K7 Triton, 7nnxp, and I have a 1gig of Dual channel pc3200 Geil. This MOB has a Sister board with fan, which is a dual power feature, providing 6-phase power.

    In any event i'll update the BIOS and see if just maybe its the problem. If not, I'm wondering if maybe this Gigabyte "Patented Dual Pwer System" that supposedly regulates the power to the board is screwing things up. I'll do a search to see if anyone else is experiencing this situation.

    Thanks again!

  4. Yeah I know the temps are crazy, it was worse with the OEM temp compound on teh HS, and I had first used the Arctic Siler v4, bought the newest and best AS v5, and it droped about 4c, and like ive said, I changed Case, HS, and fans in an attempt to solve the problem, but no dice. And like I've said, while I've built a couple of dozen systems, I've installed well over 50 processors, so I do know what I am doing in that regard.

    Also yes I use alcohol, not teh cheap 90% but the good stuff 99%, lol

    I too have on occasion, wiped off the AS and started over, even if the HS slides just a little during install, I'll stop and redo, Im very particular. And this thing has run this hot after four different installs, even if I did something wrong one time, i wouldnt do it four times, hmmmmm Would I? Maybe I should just secretly switch it out with my Sons 3200, no no id have to live with myself :twisted:

    )One more thing, yes I know with AS, less is more, a thin film, no ridges. Its an art form layin down a perfect film. :lol:

  5. Hi all, I would appreciate some feedback on teh issue of liquid cooling. I have decided that the only possible way to cool down my rig is via liquid cooling, or throwing away the proc and starting over. I have come to the realization that I just have a very hot running CPU. Its a 3200 Barton, and I have two of them in different boxes, one runs under 50c with my old heatsink, and mine runs at about 69c with my new CM Vortex HS, new case, and the side off. It runs just over 70c with teh side on. Now I didnt buy this new Cav to leave the side off. In any event, I wont be upgrading MOB, and Proc for another year, so I have little choice left.

    While I have built several dozen systems I have never installed liquid cooling and I woudl appreciate any advice, hints, safty measures you all may have.


  6. Ahhhh, that makes sense. The fact it is heavy is to keep the wires on the bottom? Anyway, I've got the rig all "zip-tied" up so I'm not going to use it for now.

    Hmmm, I'm wondering what a lightly tinted window in the front door would look like, so I can see the Aerogate display.


  7. I have installed the Vortex Dream 7 in my new Cav T03 case and with the Arctic Siler 5, and I'm happy to report it is doing much better, now its peaking at 55c in game instead of 63c ingame, so as long as I'm not OC its ok. I am beginning to believe I just have a hot processor. We upgraded my sons from a 2600+ to the 3200+ Barton over the weekend, and he is running at 42c peak with my old heat sink. :(

    So I do not think I can blame this heast sink.

  8. I have completed assembly of my new Cav T03. I decided to keep the case as is, despite blemishes, and despite NewEggs excelant RMA policy. It will all come out in the eventual mod.

    The case went togeather perfectly, though I can't for the life of me figure out what the heck that steel ring is for, anyone know? It came lose in the bag of stuff, its about 28mm in diameter and reminds me a little of a baring race.

    As for the case, it is very solid, and is an excellent design. My wife even likes it, and she hates everything. She says, your not going to Mod that are you? :lol:

    Anyway, and most importantly, I've got a 3200+ proc and a Vortex Dream7 HS, along with two 10,000rpm Raptors and an ATI X800 all making noise, and this rig is now the coolest and quietest case I have owned since the old Dell Dimension 550. I can actually hear the HD access sounds. And last but not not least the blue LEDs are way cool.

    Great product, I would highly recomend to anyone. I could not be more pleased.

  9. I just finished assembly of the 03, the one without the sound pressure device. I did notice that the USB2 and firewire 1394 cables leading to the front connections are imprinted on the cables themselves, or at least the 1394 is, I quit looking once identified. Anyway the USB2 is the one with two cables in one, and the 1394 is a single. Also your motherboard manual should show front sound pinout, at least all of the MOB manuals I have seen have them. Mine went like this, pin1 is microphone in, pin2 is ground, pin3 is open, pin4 is mic power, pin5 is front right speaker, pin6 is rear right speaker, pin7 open, pin8 open, pin9 front left speaker, and pin10 is rear left speaker.

    Sorry if this doesnt help you, I tried. For me the case went togeather fantastic, I couldnt be happier. GL

    I just realized you were most likely refering to the power button, power LED, reset button, hard drive LED, and speaker. Unfortunatly just about every motherboard I've seen is different as to pinout. Your motherboard manual will show corespnding pin layout for the different connections. Are you concerned with the + or - wires?

  10. Well I received my new Cav via Newegg yesterday. It truely is a beautifull and sturdy case. I am extremely happy with teh design and construction. Now If I can just send it back and get one Newegg hasnt F'd up. Maybe I'm being picky but I son't expect to get a new case of this calibur with screwdriver scratches, or blemishes. Kind of depressing actually. While I do plan to Mod it I don't know yet what the desing or extent of the mod will be and I don't perticullary want to be forced to refinishing these particular parts of the case. I mean the case truely is beautiful.



  11. Mr Miyagi and Bro, thanks for the links. Dont know how I missed the NewEgg and Acu. Anyway the case has been ordered, and without the side window. Yeee haaa. I hope this thing is as sweet in the flesh as it is in the pics!

    I believe you are all on track with teh PSU evaluation. A good 350W PSU is a whole lot better then a crappy 500W. Its all about continuous performance not peek performance.

  12. Umm, I hope I don't get into trouble for this, and remember we all are entitled to our opinions, but I wouldnt buy anything with the name Powmax on it. From my experience this equipment is made as cheap as any in the market place. Truly sub-standard

  13. Yeah I will swap if I can't find it sold w/o a PSU, I just hate buying stuff I dont need.

    The pictures of the case at those retailers here that carry it, show no side window, but the description says there is a side window. I want one without so I can do the mod myself, as I dont want a rectangle.

    I'd trade you, but the shipping to Singapore would be more than the case. :P

  14. Sorry if this is redundant, I'm wondering, as I prepare to purchase a new case. Is it possible to purchase the CAV-T01 or CAV-T03 without the side window and 350w PS?


  15. Thanks Grump, in that case (no pun intended) I believe I will enter with one of our cases. All were purchased by me and moded by me and still reside in my house, and have at least two CoolerMaster components.

  16. I agree, but i am intrigued about the vortex cooling technology. Now that folks only have one or two pci cards, there is a lot of available unused case wall in the rear. I have three old PCs in the back room, I just may have to try this out and see.

  17. Well, I am going to buy a new case (Wave or Cav) next week for my personal rig, whichwill replace my aging Lian Li. The case I posted here is one I am in the process of finishing up for my son, and as such would not qualify for the contest if I was the one entering it. In any event, I am a little like Grump, not as talented, but I like to do things right and not rush too much. I suspect it will take me some time to "mod" my new case, so I dont think I will have anything ready for this years contest. Now if the good folks at Cooler Master would like to run a contest for the most "bastardized" case mod, my current rig would be a contender.

    Incidentally the Hammer and sicle on my sons case, are cut out of the steel that was removed to make the window on the side, and all is attached via 5mil DOW VHB high temp acrylic PSA double sided tape, which eliminates the need for rivots or fasteners.

    Hopefully I'll have an entry in 2005

  18. I decided to investigate further @ Thomas Register, The coolers are called "vortex coolers" and here is one description from a company

    Compact Cabinet Coolers Convert Compressed Air Into 20 Degrees Fahrenheit Air To Cool & Purge Electronic Control Panels....


    Or how about a 400 BTU Thermoelectric Solid State Air Conditioner


  19. Here is a couple pics of my first attempt at a real mod, as apposed to a few dozen fan port cutouts. I still have to tint the glass and light up the inside, but I did it for my son who's RON player name is the "Communist". Now that I have tested the whloe mod thing on someone elses case Im ready to do one for myself. Dont know if I can get something togeather in time for the contest or not, but the real questions is....Which case do I buy as a canvas for my mod.



  20. Thanks, Ive seen the breakin first hand so I will watch for that. I also have a case question which I will post in teh appropriate forum. The AC duct is tempting as I have a vent just over head, but my wife would not appreciate the added fixture. She already complains about my setup which allows me to use my rig from my lazyboy while watching the big screen. I was reading a trade pub for a different business, and was surprised to read about compressed air component coolers, output at some 100 degrees below the feed temp, lol. Now I just happen to have a substantial workshop with air throughout and I'm thinkin I could run a line to my case. hmmmmm ever hear of this?

  21. Thanks, I will replace thecompound. I would have already however the advertisment was written in such a way as to suggest this compound was better. I have the Artic Silver on hand and will change it out imediatly.

    As for ambient room temps. I'm in the basement of a house with central air and a sweaty fat man at the thermostat, so its very cool. LOL