Dr Torchwood

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Everything posted by Dr Torchwood

  1. As I was taking the time out of my real life (outside of these forums) to try & answer your questions I'd hoped that you'd have maybe done the same in return. I thought perhaps that since you had read those posts you could guide me twowards them rather than saying 'Go Google them!'... Oh well we all use forums in different ways & interact with those attempting to help us diffrently too. That aside, how long have you had the unit? You mentioned about "roughly every 2 months something stops working and disconecting the power lead (at the psu end) and reconnecting it solves the problem"... So I can assume that you have had it for at least 4 or 5 months from the date of your OP right? Some items no matter the brand, the cost, the quality can develop faults & that is what customer service & the whole RMA thing is about. As the condition has gotten worse I suggest that you speak with customer support for the country / region that you are in, perhaps RMA-ing the item if possible. It is hard to work out from talking about it here if the fault is within the PSU, the cables or the connections themselves, again something that a one to one with CM Support would be better dealing with than the forums here. Please let us know of your progress once you have dealt with CM Support. All the best. Dr. T
  2. Dr Torchwood

    Which case?

    Are you going to be adding any more parts to your PC? Do you plan on upgrading what you have apart from the case? If that is really a 100 Watt psu, then I'd be looking at something in the way of a new power supply before even thinking of a new case to be honest, but I am sure that is a typing mistake? Antec 900's are no diffrent from many cases in the way dust & debris enter the case, if you have dust problems in your current case & lets face it PC cases are dust magnets, I would be looking for something that has decent dust filters or add dust filters to whatever you end up purchasing. Cosmos cases are great cases, I prefer full towers, for my own builds as well as for my customers & clients as they meet our needs, with a pref' for the stacker range. & therin lays the key, what case meets your needs. Draw up shortlist, pro's on one side & con's on the other, maybe add one or two other CM cases to the list & see how they stack up against your needs as well as your desires. Sometimes going for practical over looks can save a lot of heart ache or buyers remorse as my wife calls it. Obviously you want something bigger than you already have, you want something that also has a window or at least be able to buy a window for it as you mention looking good with cable management. Outside of that tho' we have very little to go on from what you have told us about you, your current case & what you need. Have you looked at the new stackers, the 830s may not be as big as their older stacker family in height but they have a decent bit of room in there. I wish I could assist you more but it really does come down to what other needs you have & the 'shortlist' is a good way to sort that out. Just remember to get fan filters & a couple of cans of air to exterminate those dust bunnies on a regular basis.
  3. The way I would look at it is this: The card allows for me to upgrade to a much bigger screen at a later date when screens become cheaper. (my 40 inch 1080p Sony 120Hz LCD was less than $1,000 in Feb 09, same screen was almost 3 times that 16 months earlier) In the mean time, I know I'd be able to max out any games at the lower res (If I was building the PC for games) without burning up the card or a need to OC it. It depends what you wish to use the PC for at the end of the day really doesn't it. Something that strikes me as odd about what you 'Read' elsewhere is that there are 19 & 21 inch monitors available with a much higher res than most 24 inch monitors. It is IMHO quite an uneducated statement that you read, one that is either trying to put people off of the card or perhaps sell a certain type of monitor to those who own the card. The truth is the more professional grade the monitor no matter what size it is the better the res & the refresh rate will be. I love using my 40inch monitor, but I am stuck at a res no higher than 1080i / 1080p & have a choice of either 60hz or 120hz as a refresh rate. Do I feel I am wasting my EAH4870X2 becaus it is capable of a much higher res' ??? No, of course I don't. For me at the moment my card/s quite happy chugging along, not being stressed out by pushing it to produce it's optimum res' or refresh... But then I am using the PC for a general purpose machine right now. I do some graphics, I remix some music, I edit some HD Video & I play a few games online. When it comes time to move this PC to my new workspace it will be driving 3 of the 40 inch sony LCDs (or 3 46 inch Sony LCDs) as the main setup with a 4th monitor for purely graphic design work that has a res that would go beyond the capabilities of my PC in general or at least make the most of the horsepower that it produces... Can you see what I mean by that statement being a bit off? (the one you read elsewhere) Of course it would be nice to max the cards out 24/7 65 but then I'd be running the risk of overheating, the lifespan of the cards would then be much shorter. Nobody ever made a rule that you have to use the maximum screen res that a video card is capable of as that sweeping statement suggests. Dr.T
  4. That's sweet to know... Had me worried for a moment, as I said I made that mistake back in the day lol. Can't wait to see what you create... kinda' have me on the edge of my seat waiting.
  5. Crossfire allows you to use the same models / makes & as long as the Palit Dual cooler 4870 1 GB card & your ASUS EAH 4870 512MB graphics are both Crossfire ready, then you can do it. But be aware that the 1GB card will be pulled down to 512mb. It's a sim' concept to mixing PC Ram... you can run PC2700 & PC2100 ram but the PC2700 will only run t PC2100 speeds. In my experience of crossfire systems despite the ability to mix brands it is always less problematic to use two / three or four cards that are the same make, same power etc. AMD / ATI website & forums would better answer & explain your qustion as of course they are (ATi was) the origin of crossfire. Crossfire have made advancements in leaps & bounds since it first surfaced and their dedicated forums are full of great tips & tricks.
  6. Just a minor concern about your using a fridge as I tried to build a running system inside a running fridge myself circa 1997/98. Fridges make great cases as far as sound proofing / vibration control. But only when unplugged / not running as a fridge, only used as a case itself. The problem when building inside a fridge that is running is CONDENSATION... Hot parts in cooled air equals water droplets where you just don't want them. I managed to fry what was back in the day quite a large sum of monies worth of parts. I can't wait to see what your project ends up like, I am 100% intrigued by this one. Lots of pictures please...
  7. First up: you say all the stickers / seals are broken & thus it won't void the warranty? Without full knowledge of the RMA to which I am not privvy to, I cannot really comment on the broken seals etc. However, as with any product from any company (talking PSU's) swapping out the fan youself does indeed mess with your warranty. It would surely be concidered as a modification, seals broken or not. I would at least contact customer support with what you are proposing to do, giving them background on your RMA, the fact that the seals are broken on the unit you received & the 'noise' to which you are trying to remedy. At least this way they can tell you if what you are doing to save further RMA-ing of the unit will or will not cause problems with the warranty. I'd not just assume that it is OK. Better to be safe than sorry. Secondly: the high pitched noise... You describe it as a droning / high pitched noise. Do you think it is a bearing problem or could it be the fan is just runing at full throttle (pushing a lot of air constantly)? I had a problem like this with another brand's PSU, it was new in the box, the problem was caused by as I asked above, the fan running at full power as the PSU was at it's limit (I was drawing the max, thus it was hotter than heck 24/7). The noise was the air being forced through a 'honeycomb' grill. I had two choices, buy a higher rated PSU, remove a few items that were causing such a high draw. I am not saying that this is your porblem, but have you checked how much load you are putting on the PSU? You may not even be close to pushing the psu to it's limit but you might be drawing too much on one rail causing the same effect. kvoong825 posted a link to the CoolerMaster PSU calculator in another thread a few days ago. I'd check first to see if you are running at full draw as no matter what fan you pop in there you may end up with the same problem if full draw is the issue. The calculator can be found here: http://www.coolermaster.outervision.com/advance.jsp Have a look at the calculator, let me know what kind of draw you are putting on the PSU / what the calculator suggests for the equipment you are using. ==================================================== As for the fan you have at hand, 44.73 CFM... IMHO that is OK in some heatsink & fan combos, in fact up until a few years ago before CPU's started to become 'Hotter' due to higher speeds, 44 / 45 CFM was the ideal for heatsinks, nowadays we tend to see higher CFM fans in heatsink/fan combos. Is it enough CFM for a 600wt power supply?... again support would be the people to tell you. If your psu over heats or fails it may actually take a bunch of other components with it, do you want to risk that? The other thing with PSUs that the average person who opens them up tends to forget is that even when unplugged it can hold enough of a charge to KILL you!!! I have mentioned support a few times, I really think that you should contact them, it isn't worth risking damage to your PC, to the PSU & of course the risk of severe damage to yourself. They may even suggest using a coolermaster certified PC store to swap out the fan for you if indeed it is the fan at fault, that would be a lot safer than doing it yourself & at least you would know that it would have a correctly rated fan installed. I understand your need to have this dealt with quickly, that you have already RMA'd the PSU, it still isn't worth the risks involved or possibly voiding all warranties without speaking to somebody in support. The above may not be the answers you were looking for but it is the best advice that I can offer you at present. Let me know what the calculator says & also what support tells you to do. Dr. T
  8. Coming together beautifully... Can I ask if your acrylic was cut local or did you have to send out quite a distance? (Also what was the turn around on sending out, getting them back?) They certainly did a great job with the acrylic & wouldn't mind somewhere capable of doing that in these parts. (I'm at a beach resort area, not known for it's mix of powdercoaters & laser cutting companies ) Keep the pics coming...
  9. w00t! Nice work... That Red "O" stand out pretty awsome. The other letters, perhaps it's the way your cam registers the light but I cannot work out if they are supposed to be bright white or bright blue, it could also be the reflection of light from behind the letters. I'd imagine that they are bright white right?
  10. Not a problem batsdecrud, I enjoy building, modding all manner of PCs for myself & constantly build higher end machines for customers, clients & friends. I won't say that the config you are going for is the only one I have not done but it comes close to being one set up that I had to admit to never having tried or even contemplated... So to answer your question & to satisfy my own curiosity I just had to take a decent look into it Now then, apart from the items you mentioned going into the case, lets see a nice V10 in there huh? What are you going to power the machine with, what cooling do you have planned? What would you rate your building PC experience at? (1 being n00b / 10 being "I can build a pc blindfolded with one hand tied behind my back whislt playing a saxaphone") You don't have to answer if you don't want, I am just being curious as you have picked a nice card for the graphix, a decent mobo & of course a great case for them all to go into. I do have to say that the CM 690 looks like a great case for it's price, it is also pretty simple yet well thought out, but then it is a CoolerMaster case so we should expect that. It is one case that I think should be used more for my customers builds even tho' they prefer the stacker range, often the space inside the stackers get wasted... Also, having found that tripple card picture I am close to tempted to get 3 or 4 of those for a new custom home theater project I have been asked to put together that needs a lot of graphics power in the one small space I have to fit the 'brains' into. Yes please keep us updated, pictures are always welcome too.
  11. Indeed, with imageshack etc having a few problems right now te better choice IMHO of picture hosting that is Free & virtually unlimited is Photobucket. I have used them for approx 5 years without a single problem & can highly reccomend their free services. As with any of these hosting sites they do offer an upgrade for a small monthly fee but I have never found the need. Photobucket FTW
  12. I always host images on imageshack, but is not so good way. what another host which you suggest? so, I can host the photos again Sorry, did not understand very well on the conservative Photobucket is a great free service for images & video. You can upgrade by paying for the service but in all honesty I have used their free hosting for over 5 years now & never had a single problem with them. I have a few webistes, so I have other ways to 'store' & show pictures on the internet, but at the end of the day Photobucket is just so much quicker, easier & reliable. Take a look at what they offer for free, I think you will find them to be on par with or even slightly better than Imageshack. Hope that helps you out. Dr. T
  13. Loving the fact that you purchased a 'Refurbished' case from the store for this project. There are some items that you just don't buy refurbished but Cases tend to be great solid workhorses NIB or Refurb'd. As I had said in another thread the contest is getting my creative juices flowing & I just wish now that I had decided to do something for it this year. Seeing you use a refurbished case has conjured up many ideas for me now & of course it is a great money saver at the end of the day. Maybe we will see more refurb'd items / cases in contests to come. Dr. T
  14. I am really enjoying your project. It is great as another member said to see more wood being used. I really admire the fact that you prefer to had 'rasp' & use other traditional yet time consuming methods in the production of your pieces. I hope that when people look at the finished product that they also take into account the methods of production, appreciate the time it takes to 'hand finish' as you have been doing. Scoring with the dremel is a great tip that you have shared with the others too, way too many projects have been 'messed up' by not pre-scoring materials & I hope that future modders have taken note. ==== My question is why you chose to go with a 'Ply' rather than a solid sheet? Was it more cost effective or have you found that Plywood has certain properties that 'solid' sheets of the same finish doesn't have when it comes to case modding? My own attempts at wooden cases in the past have suffered 'warping' due to heat, both laptop & full sized towers. (more laptop tho' which warped all over, the tower warped on top & rear only) For those I had used thin solid sheets & not ply... hence my question about about having found certin properties in the ply, such as is it more heat resilient (sp?). ==== Great pictures & fantastic to see your work. Can't wait to see more as the project progresses. Dr. T
  15. Morning, hope your weekend is going great. Having taken a look at various images of the card, the case & the motherboard & knowing the case first hand I cannot see any problem with getting the card or multiples of it in the case. My concern is using that card with that board & the clearance you may have when using the top PCIe for the first card. As we can see in this image there is a copper pipe running to the bridge. I know that my Asus EAH4870X2 which is a bohemoth of a card clears the heat pipes etc on my Asus M4A79 Deluxe & so I feel that from seeing the GTX 295 on other Asus mobos such as the picture below that you are in with a chance: Whilst looking at pictures of that card on motherboards, I found this beauty of a setup dedicated to 'Folding at home': Anyways... When we see the card in question on an Asus motherboard which has the same dimensions as the mobo that you have & then look at the case itself... (pic below): We can see that there is ample room for the cards length. The added bonus that the HDDs are inserted into the case from the side rather than having to remove the cards to add or replace HDDs pretty much says it all. Take a look at all the above pictures, phatom if the card will clear the heat pipe on that board as it is the only issue here that I cannot asure you of & you will see for certain that if the card will clear the pipes you have no worries with the case, card & mobo combo you are going for. Hope this has helped. Dr T
  16. I am speaking here as a long time user of CoolerMaster products, as a builder of high end custom PCs, gaming rigs & not as a moderator of the forums. I have only ever had one problem with a CM PSU, it was DOA & that was due to the way it was shipped by a third party to me & the way in which the postal service had treated the package. That is not bad really, one DOA out of some five or six hundred PSUs from the company & the fault was nothing to do with CoolerMaster in the first place. I have read so many reviews on so many computers parts from fans to CPUs, LED strips to cases, Power Supplies to motherboards, you name it there are reviews. What I have found over the years is that some magazines, some websites, most reviers are biased in one way or another. I had to top buying / reading one magazine that I had not only been reading since it's launch in the early 90's, not only reading but eventually writing reviews for them from time to time... I had always thought how great the magazine was, how unbiased it was, what great tech knowledge it had & some awsome reviews, that is until is was not asked but TOLD to give a product a negative review... It was my mission to seek out only the bad in this product, make sure that it was written so as not to offend the company as they still wanted to review their products but & perhas pic up advertising from the company, however the product was up against other products that did the same thing, products that were advertised in the magazine on a regular basis... .. I obviously refused & so ended any further work for me from that magazine, somebody else took on the review & did as they were told. This sort of thing is rife in the PC magazine world, on review websites too. I am not accusing that magazine you had read of doing the same but I would lay my own money on the odds that the top rated PSUs in their list are major advertisers or send them a lot of cool gadgets to review each month... ================= Back to coolermaster PSUs: Again out of hundreds of the coolermaster PSUs I have used in builds over a very long period of time I can assure you that the article was a load of 'TWODDLE", I have used them in high end systems overclocking, drawing almost to the max on them & they still keep going. Even the most ardent overclocker is not going to produce the same draw that these so called experts put on the PSUs, there was no 'REAL WORLD" testing going on here, "INDUSTRIAL Equipment'? When was the last time I hooked up any industrial equipment to run off of or to test a PSU? Answer: NEVER!!! nor would anybody else buying a power supply. You have nothing to fear with the PSU you have, the reply to your letter says so itself. It is a shame that nowadays you have to read so many reviews to find just one that is unbiased in on way or another. I hope I have put yur mind at ease. Dr. T (Now putting my moderator kit back on....)
  17. I for one am loving it all... It has inspired me to improve on some older mods I have done & even start a few new projects too. Keep the pics & descriptions coming. Dr. T
  18. Very nice indeed... I should have known we had one.. /me: Face Palm
  19. Love the use of the super brights. I managed to buy a strip of 48 superbright UV (black light) LEDs for use in my 830... Amost everything in a 4 foot radius is affected by them even tho' the case is closed... when the one side is open OMG it is like being in a european nightclub lol. Are you going to be adding switches or a controller for your custom LED arrays? I am looking into a possibility to 'Dim' the other LEDs in my personal case & hook the dimmer to a photo sensor, I'd like to attain between 1/3rd & 1/2 brightness at night. Have you looked into that sort of thing?
  20. I have never seen any problems with any of those units. A majority of people buy a PSU, build a PC using it & ever touch it again. People like myself who are constantly changing their hardware might have a need to rmove, move or change a modular PSU cable, that I admit, but I just cannot grasp what you mean by 'flimsy'? As the poster above me 'coolmiester' suggested, it could be a case of your not having pushed the conections all the way 'home'. To my knowledge that PSU has had great reviews (why I have purchased several in the past for my customers & clients), I have yet to see a bad review on any website. You did say 'on other forums'? Would these forums be another brand of PSU's by any chance? If at all possible, could you dig out the links to those forums & pop them in a PM to me so I can have a look & see what is being said about the PSU. Much thanks.
  21. For future ref'... There are a couple of online calculators where you input each drive, card, fan etc & they tell you the minimum psu needed for your hardware. A quick google search will lead you to these. Very handy things when planning a new PC or making upgrades. I am of the school that you can never have a big enough PSU. The more power it has available the better, not only for future upgrades (HDDs, Fans, Lights etc), if you have a PSU rated at 600wts & you are close to drawing the limit you will suffer heat problems & the life expectancy of that psu is limited. If however you have say an 850wt PSU & you are only drawing 550 to 600wts then your PSU is not having to work so hard, the fans in the psu will keep the temps nice & cool & as you are not stressing the PSU it will last you a lot longer. I don't think I will ever be able to pull a full draw on my PSU (in my sig below) but I have tons of room power wise for future upgrades, I hardly ever hear my psu fans (they are spinning but at a nice & quiet pace).
  22. I certainly wouldn't GLUE any parts or introduce anything that may inadvertantly cause more problems. As mentioned above it takes a whilefor these & most PSUs to cool down. Once cooled many start up again without a hitch. So how to keep it cool, well when was the last time you exterminated all the dust bunnies? A lot of PSU failure is heat related or of course drawing too much juice which in turn can raise the temps. If your fan has dust or debris hindering it's bearnings then you will start to overheat & shut down. The disconecting & reconnecting may not be doing anything bar giving the psu time to cool down. From your sig it looks like it shouldn't be a load problem, how long have you had the psu & when did it start happening? What is the 'dust level' in your case & psu like? (if any)
  23. I wouldn't mind a photo of your 'chopped card'. What was it exactly stopping you from adding the 3rd card? What little metal bracket is in the way? Again a picture would be nice. I have had quad cards in an 830, my new board supports a few also but I am running an EAH4870X2 (rather large card) But I know I can fit a second of the same in there... Being as large as they are, I'd think three single of any card should go in. ====== To answer your original question however... It really comes down to what motherboard you have & where the PCIe slots are in relation to the case rear slots. I have seen some motherboards supposedly made for quad SLI & the boards themselves wouldn't allow 4 cards even with 4 PCIe slots. I have never had problems using multiple cards with Asus boards in any CoolerMaster Case I have owned so far. So if you could take a picture of this hunk of metal in the way & perhaps give us your board specs. =================================== =================================== Just a bit of background on ill fitting cards: Occasionally motherboards are not 100% square in the case, this can be due to motherboard screws not being fully tightened. In fact I'd say that more than 3 out of ten motherboards are not seated correctly. If you ever have a problem with a graphics card or a sound card not fitting into the rear slot 100%, what you should do with the power to the PC unplugged is loosen all the scres on the motherboard by a quater turn, put a little pressure on the motherboard first at a corner to see if it moves the card into the slot better, repeat the process around the board until the card fits into the slot correctly. Sometimes it may take a slight bit of pressure from the base of the board or the top. Never ever force the bord with a lot of prssure, we don't want to damage the motherboard but a gentle pressure should be enough, if the board does not move you may have to loosen the screw just a tad more. If working alone, I have found that some folded cardboard can make a great wedge to keep the board in place whilst you tighten the board back down & it will not damage the motherboard. I cannot count the number of people that have come to me with a graphics card problem, not being able to get their DVIs or VGAs (SVGAs) to fit correctly, a quick run through as described above to center the motherboard sorts that out 100%. @ Noobasaurus I am not saying that was the problem you had but it would be worth looking into.
  24. I am loving the cases & getting a bit of an urge to do a couple of cases just for the fun of it. I have a wide variety of tools & materials in my garage / workspace (even tho' I tend to take over the master bedroom, the dining room, kitchen & one of the lounges... in the process of making a proper workspace dedicated to PC Only above the garage, have the new A/C system all the dedicated 30 amp circuits installed0... anyways, yes, lots of tools & dif' stuff to use as finishes & modding. I have an urge to do a somewhat Primative / or Victorian mixed with a very furturistic look & I have this hankering to work with some sheet metals, a couple of dif' kinds blended into one case. Threads like this always gets my creative juices running. Keep the pics of your cases / rigs coming, standard or modded is OK.... Dr T
  25. Finished the exterior on Friday w00t! The area I was cutting is a mess, but hey flames leave all manner of lil' sticky bits everywhere... Removing the mobo tray, taking off the board & making the inside as pretty as the outside this afternoon, then popping everything back together. My only concern is how to deal with the front grills... Leave them black? Remove the paint on them & polish them till' they sparkle? I could knock up a tool that will puncture the coating but that would just take ages to make for such a short use, like 10 or so uses & it then has no purpose. (unless I want to torture people with it.. muhahahahaha) Painting them is out of the question, I tried one on another case a while ago & the grill holes just clogged up with paint, again resulting in the need to puncture the grills, so I may as well use vinyl for the job... I'd like the front grills in a metalic black, same as the black overlay flames atop & the pinstripes on the irredesent silver uprights (front of case). Perhaps stripping the original paint off to see what is underneath is my best option... think I will try that with a spare 3 1/2 bay grill that I have. So, here she is... I'm calling her "Hot Stuff":- The black metal flake (prismatic flake) over the red may look a bit much in photographs but in real life they are just right IMHO... I wanted to make sure there was no doubt it was a coolermaster case, so I left the 'bull nose' at the front uncoated. Looking at how nice the irredesent silver is on the front uprights I can tell that even if it didn't have 'bars' every 11 or 12 inches... Doing the entire case in it would have been just "too Much". I am debating if I am keeping the cross flow fan in, so the 'holes' stay as is until I decide... Whatever I decide to do with the front bay grills will have to be applied to the top vent also. Making the window 'smaller' was the right move I feel, who needs to see the internal tool-less bay uprights? Once 'built' obviously the mess of wires that are just 'hanging about' will not be seen. I have a few stripts of UV Ultra Bright LEDs (wide angle & spots), I am thinking a strip of wide angle along the top (inside) filling the case, Using the 'spot light style' from the floor of the case picking out areas... I'm almost tempted to throw the DFI Lan-Party mobo in the case as it has all that UV Yellow on the mobo. ================================== Will add more pics of the finished product when she is up & running... May even make a matching 32 inch LCD Just to round off the package.