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About Chumly409

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  1. Soooo...this thing was supposed to have a link included?? Or it's a mod? And that's a little over-kill IMO. I have a 3.4 775@4.012, Eheim HPPS 12v pump, 3 Raptors, 1 Maxtor ultra 250, a Plextor 712A and a Sony DRU700A. Putting a watt meter on it for 3 days shows barely 420 watts ever used of the OCZ Powerstream 520. No, not a server obviously, but it is stressed all the time, at least by F@H 24/7. Just my couple penny's thrown out there.
  2. Side fans and anything up front blow in. Blow holes and obviously the rear fans blow out. It's just the general rule of thumb. I'd move the modest fan that came with the stacker to the side panel, and put the high speed fans up front on the HDD cages is they fit. Just remember, what goes in, must come out (and vise versa). If you put the high speed fans up front and not upgrade the back, the air may try to escape out the big opening on the side. A fan placed here may just push hot air back in. Maybe. I'm having good luck just having no fan on the side and letting it educt in or out...just letting it do it's thing. Mind you, it's an 80mm mount. If you want a 120mm fan, you'll need an adapter. But I question the need to stuff the thing with fans. Boards run hot...they just do. There's a heatsink on any part that gets hot already. And if they are hot enough to need the heat removed even more, they have fans. These places are the Northbridge and the power area where all the caps are. Normal airflow over these caps won't cool them any better, unless it's ducted like Abit's OTES on the Max3's. Otherwise, it's just air blowing over them. Fast blowing fans that push a lot of air through a case are really over rated. It's much wiser to make a nice gentle path that flows over the critical hardware and then point it out. Like a river that flows over hotspots. The standard case does well already, even with the slow/low CFM 120's. Adding a fast fan here or there may just make turbulance. Not good.
  3. If you have a college or trade school locally, they will generally do some pretty nice CNC jobs for just the cost of materials. Give 'em a call...they can do some great work for next to nothing. I used to do a lot of that in school (not computers obviously...wastn't a fad then ), for people that wanted nice designs for plexy panels in sub boxes or their own logo in billet aluminum. I still have stuff done at schools, and even a reputable machine shop isn't that really expensive. The set-up charges get's the cost high, so the more complicated the design, the longer it takes to program. Simple holes or slits are fairly quick though. But, ummm...that's in plastics. I've never used glass in a PC. I wouldn't even know where to start in attaching it to the panel.
  4. I've heard a couple comments around about the CMstacker having some kind of link that would allow you to use two power supplies at the same time? This is a myth, right? If not, I didn't get one. But, I hardly find a reason CM would want to do this at all. Anyone know why this is running rampant around the various forums?
  5. He uses a ASUS A8V Deluxe Wireless Edition Just a hunch
  6. I'm not sure if there was ever a "batch" really. I belive the original complaint was due to a review prior to it's public release. Meaning? The reviewer may have gotten an engineering sample that had the default. I got mine as soon as they hit, and there was no flaws at all.Retailers (like newegg) carry them, and you can be sure that if it's damaged, it's not due to CM necassarily, or an old "batch". The only thing you may run into is the lack of a bay device for the floppy, as noted. I'm not sure what CM did to get the exsisting units that were in stock at retailers updated with the new pieces, but as I email to CM got me one quick. But, um...It's a pretty odd mock-up. Their solution feels a little half-baked and I opted just to get my own adapter after trying out the CM rig.
  7. May want to take notice that the rig featured in that picture is MPC's '03 DM. While the dates were accurate (and over), the upcomming tour for DM'04 is not built in a CM unit. Sorry fans...I know. I tried real hard to get the CMstacker as the dream machine this year, but failed. My cries came too late in the planning stages to start trying to request one from CM. I'll do my best to get it into this year's must-have hardware though! I'll have to cry pretty loud though;)
  8. Mine was missing the floppy adapters as well, but I fired an email (there's a thread about it here somewhere) and got them within the week.Not sure what you mean about the 2x80mm issue...
  9. To those wanting some pics of this thing: My browse through the CMstacker I'll probably remove that page in September. It's ripped apart once again waiting a paintjob for the competition
  10. You do realize that the case comes in bare Aluminum, right? I had saw the site's pictures show this as a black case, but when it shown up on my doorstep in the FedEx man's possession I ripped it open to find a very pretty aluminum design.I had pondered painting it as well, but changed my mind quickly! It's still an option, but I'm holding off for now. I haven't visited Gump's site yet, but will. But I'd like to drop some items about painting cases. Some to discourage, some just for tips. First, a nice finish is very hard to get with a rattlecan paintjob. To me, they just don't do nice case's justice. You can get away with rattlecan, but don't expect it to comeout like a Smooth Creations case! If you do rattlecan, I've had one experiment turn out using paint I had left over from painting my R/C trucks. I belive it was the little cans of Pactra that you can get at R/C shops. I chose that because it bonded to plastic well. Once dry, it didn't look bad, but was easy to scratch and didn't really shine. Those paints were made to be applied under lexan that gives it the shine and protection. So, not happy and not caring if I screwed it all up, I shot some clear I had all over it and it actually did OK. Your milage may vary. The only option I see worth while is automotive type paint, but only if you already have some of the hardware and tools. I do, as I'm a motorcycle and 4x4 nut and am painting these all the time. You can get away with a cheaper gun (I use a Sata) but you'll still need an air-compressor and all the safety equipment* ...not to mention a place to do the shooting. It's really easy, so I hate to discourage this method! The basic 2-part that today's cars and trucks have on them is just plain easy. The hard part is just disassembling the case, prepping, and masking to paint. Good prep is the only way to get a good looking job BTW. You just: Shoot on an adhesion promoter and let it set while you mix the paint in a cup (following the directions on the side). Shoot the base, then let it flash for 15minutes. I sand with 400 grit then shoot another coat. Mix up the clear and shoot it on real nice and even. If you screwed up the base, you may be able to fix it with a nice clearcoat. Again, I sand and re-shoot the clear several times. The more you do the clear, the deeper it looks! Mind you, that the more layers also make it thicker, so watch out if you are painting a part that mates with something else or must add in a part you have removed for painting. You may have to end up taking a razorblade to thin out these areas if they don't fit right anymore...and that's a shame if you go that far to do a nice paint job and have to cut into it. After it's cured, the stuff is hard as nails and should last forever! Another thin I noticed in painting objects. If you do paint, you have to keep using the same paint over and over to keep the color matching. While this may be obvious on the case itself, it's apparent on drives. Most drives that you get in black have a totally different tone than a black you'd shoot on and you can tell the difference. Same with other sells bezels of various colors, but their blue may not match your blue. Know what I mean? Black matches with about anything, so I just plan on buying my drives black from the manufacturer and live happy. Out of the last 9 black drives (SB's Live drive included) they've all shared the same black. I ran out of basics to throw out there. Oh ya! Good masking tape is a must. I use this green 3M stuff and it never bleeds on me. You can get it at most auto paint dealer, truevalue, or most home improvement store. All in all, weigh your options and make the decision. A good paint job can get expensive and you start to understand why you see these custom Falcon paintjobs (done by smooth creations) getting pretty pricey. A rattlecan CAN turn out good, but I'd hesitate rattlecanning something as nice as a CMstacker or Wavemaster. It's all a matter of taste, and taste is always realitive *don't skimp on the safety! The clearcoat's out today are nasty things. Comming from the old laquers, I thought it was just another warning label. A few years of shooting the stuff and now I almost puke when I smell clearcoat. Not from the smell, but my body is rejecting it. It contains Isocyanate (the same stuff Jim Jones used in his Koolaid) and it stays in your body forever building up until it can't handle anymore. Face masks alone don't help as it goes through your skin as well. Again, nasty stuff!
  11. there another model in the works for the other side? That one is cool, for now. but when you want to use BTX mode, that panel and the logo, will be upside down I'm waiting on either newegg or FrozenCPU to have them in stock along with the crossflow and I'm ordering it, but would still like to have the option to flip sides.