footman

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About footman

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  1. I for one will be happy to see this finally released, as long as CM have finally coated both sides with a non-slip coating for those who LIFT their mice.... The STORM had great potential for claw grip lift mouse, let down by sub par optical option..........
  2. footman

    XSPC 60mm thick Rad

    If you are doing a cpu only loop, don't bother with a full custom loop, expensive and will not fit even with a mod (60mm thick rad), use an all in one instead. There are a bunch on the market right now. My favorite right now is the Swiftech H220 http://www.swiftech.com/H220.aspx
  3. I had a 140mm rad in my workshop that came out of another build of mine, so instead of leaving it I added it to the loop in my main rig. I don't think it was necessary as I have not seen any appreciable difference in my temperatures. The GTX 670's do not pump out as much heat as the 7970 or the older GTX 480's. Also my 24/7 overclock on the 3770K is 4.4ghz at stock voltage (anything above this needs 1.2-1.3v)... The tubing is important to me and I generally use Primoflex as it is soft, easy to work with and looks great. This particular tubing is 3/4in OD and 1/2in ID my preferred size.
  4. Good for you with the 280 rad at the top, this is a better by far than a 240 rad obviously. My loop is a little different to yours in that my pump is sitting on my cpu block. So I needed to go from the res to the pump first. I tweaked the loop since my first post. The coolant will reach a level temperature so the route the fluid takes is not really that important for you as your pump is connected to your res. The loop you suggested above will be fine. Post back delta temps after getting the loop running I am curious to see what your temps are. Good luck.
  5. Pretty nice list of components IMO. I would change a few things but that's just me. I have a pair of EVGA GTX 670 FTW's and a 3770K so our systems will be similar. If you are open to suggestions, look at the Aerocool rads, they are 100% copper, not copper and brass and come in 28mm, 45mm, 60mm and 90mm thick options. Push and pull is the way to go, but I have really only seen a maximum of 3C difference with my CPU temps and 1C with GPU going with a single fan. may not be worth it from noise perspective. I have my fans connected to a fan controller and running at 1100rpm so nice and quiet. The aerocool rads outperform the EX rads, looks at Martins Liquid labs or Skinnee for some comparisons. Also Bundymania. XSPC make some terrific blocks, also relatively cheap, perhaps go with the all copper or chrome version of the Raystorm. Not for better cooling but because the arms are metal and not acrylic/polycarbonate like the stock Raystorm (I do not feel comfortable with my retension system being acrylic, brittle and may loosen in time. I do not like the Akasa fans, I have two of them in my workshop. These are noisy and do not like low voltage starting. The Corsair are the way to go, especially in SP form. Finally you do not need twin pumps, costs a lot and is not necessary. Good luck dude.
  6. The FX 8350 has a 125w TDP and the N520 is good for 150W dissipation, so you should be good to go. Its not a huge cooler so you should have no trouble with your ram. Why not just use the retail cooler that comes with it for the next month? It's designed for this cpu. You say that you will most likely upgrade to water soon after. The retail cooler will be fine unless you plan to overclock immediately. Good luck.
  7. Oh, perhaps I should answer your question a 280 rad may just be able to squeeze in at the top, but you may not be able to shut the case, also there is only space for a pair of 120mm fans above the rad, 140mm fans will not fit above the chassis frame.
  8. You want to swap out the AIO that is installed at the top and put a custom loop in place? What CPU and GPU's do you have? The CM90 is not the best case for water cooling, however it is not the worst. I would use 2 x 240 rads, one at the top and one at the bottom, have a single bay reservoir like the EK, then use the Swiftec Apogee Drive 2 as space is limited. This places the pump on the cpu block. Pick up a couple of full coverage blocks for your video cards, again EK and a decent parallel connector (EK). Tubing choice is up to you. I prefer 3/4OD I/2ID and I always go with Primoflex, it is soft and flexible ad easy to work with. I also use compression fittings, but barbs work just as well. Here is an image of my last build with overclocked 3770K and pair of overclocked GTX 670's. Originally I had theses humming along with a single 240mm rad and a single 140mm rad. Now I upgraded the 240 for a 360 rad at the top. I use Corsair SP 120 fans for my rads right now or the 140mm AF Corsair fan. These are good for rads and fairly quiet. You can also go with Scythe Gentle Typhoon or Swiftech Helix fans.
  9. Exceptional work. I will be following this mod. Love what you did with the rad at the top.
  10. Quick revision to my earlier build (just above), swapped out the 240 rad at the top and the 140 at the back for standard 360 at the top and 120 at the back so that I could use fans in push pull.... and
  11. footman

    WC Rads for HAF XB

    I guess no-one. Just as well i have done my own testing now. 140mm fans will fit at the front but I had to use a dremel to shave away a small portion of the fan case to get the front panel to fit back on. This does not affect fan performance. Secondly, I was able to fit in a 45mm wide 280mm radiator and get an extra pair of 140mm fans on to use in push/pull (photos will follow when I finally finish the build. I wanted to use a 60mm rad but this would have slightly encroached on the edge of the atx board and created issues as there is only around 88mm of space to play with. I may change my mind and use a 60mm thick rad with fans in push instead of a 45mm rad with push and pull. I have fitted a 45mm rad at the back of the case, using a 60mm thick rad is again possible but I had to place the fan on the outside of the case as I had no room on the inside for both 60mm rad and fan (85mm clearance)... Build will be delayed until I decide on rad thickness and location of my reservoir. Originally I was going to use a single bay reservoir but this is proving difficult to plumb in neatly. So I am back to the design stage. I am using the Swiftech Apogee Drive ll with integrated pump and really want to find some space on the top of this case for a small res. Stay tuned.
  12. footman

    WC Rads for HAF XB

    I want to order this case to replace my HAF-X, I understand that the front panel comes with 2 x 120mm fans but can accept 2 x 140mm fans. Specs say that it can accept a 240mm rad at the front, however I want to know if it can also accept a 280mm rad at the front as it can accept the 2 x 140mm fans. Anyone?
  13. Idle temps are not that revealing as they are certainly affected by ambient. Usually I am far more interested in load temps. There are a few things to investigate here. First of all are you running cpu at stock settings? Go in to bios and set optimal settings. EVGA does like to cater to enthusiast so it may be that there is a slight OC, or that stock vcore is slightly higher than it needs to be. The 3770K is extremely sensitive to vcore and will run hot.. Second, take cooler off and look at the TIM pattern on the cooler as well as the heatspreader. make sure that it covers the base evenly and leaves a nice square. Consider using a different TIM like MX4 or Gelid GC Extreme, or Prolimatech PK-1. Finally run Intel burn test and use Core Temp to check temps. At stock with this cooler and fans working with pwm I would expect to see load temps around 20C higher than idle. I watercool my 3770k and I see temps around 15C delta difference at stock and a whopping 40C delta when overclocked to 4.6ghz...