• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About XenoMorpH

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I think this would do just the trick: http://www.cooltechpc.com/c/ctpc/std/sk ... apter.html or http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/ ... ts_id=2851 No holes to drill
  2. Hi, I have a CM850W ESBA PSU. In Windows, the 12V rial shows it's 10V? Other hardware I have: ATi Radeon 4870X2 3xHDD's 2xDVD-Writers Can't imagine this would drop the 12V rail?... Is there sumfn wrong with my PSU? **EDIT** Some additional info: On my old Asus M3a32-MVP Deluxe mobo the 12V line was stable in OCCT stress test, But now with my new Asus M3A79-T the 12 line dropped to 10V. Maybe Mobo problem?
  3. Job well done! But you sure need to do some rewireing inside...
  4. Why do you want to do that if I may ask?
  5. Clarkseth, are you using a translation tool to post your comments?!? Have to read the posts twice to understand what you are trying to say
  6. I liek the drivebay solution!!. I was thinking about a way I could get the front mesh attached to my DVD players too, and looking at the solution you created it sure is simple. How did u do that? (and hopw does the button work). As for the fancontroller....I created that mod too 2 weeks ago http://www.overclock.net/4503057-post1591.html BTW, did you check if your top cover fits back on with the molex plugged in? Mine sure did't fit so I had to cut a hole.
  7. Very Nice!!! I like the window
  8. Cuz of lack of front bays I decided to mod my top-cover and insert a custom fancontroller. I bought this controller and stripped it completely: Took off the top-cover and cut out the plastic with a dremel: The top and center: Both sides cut out and inserted the controller backplate to c if it fits: And now the holes, how R we goingto do that....:thinking:: Taped the old front to the case (first determained the position)Cuz it has the correct distances of the holes. After measuring the hole size to drill the holes Here we go...8 holes...4 fancontrol and 4 led holes: I thought I was ready, but then the top couldn't close cuz of the plug at the back of the controller. So I had to cut a hole where the plug has to go through: Protected the components for pieces of metal.... When the hole was done, I put everything together. Same way as I stripped the controller, but then the other way around wit hthe top-cover instead of the old controller front. At the end it looks like this: And guesse what....it's working very well
  9. All product which are going to be soled in Europe need to have a CE certificate, otherwise it's not allowed to be sold in Europe at all. CE is a Risk assessment, to invent people to get hurt by the product. Looking at my CM690, the device is a CE device, this also counts for the acrylic side-panel I bought for this case. So I don't c any reason for CM NOT to include a window... Andd yes, per country there are safety boards which tests products to c if they comply to the standards, and there are indeed products which aren't safe. Most of the times these are cheap a$$ products, CM in this case isn't a company which makes cheap a$$ products imo.
  10. Or buy a Cooler Master (STB-3T4-E3-GP) 4-in-3 Device Module:
  11. Don't think that's true....there are tons of cases with acrylic windows...
  12. The case looks very nice! But the front looks a bit cheap to me. Maybe it's an idea for CM to include acryl-side windows with the package so people can exchagne the meshed windows (dust).
  13. Whay to use ties if u can use the official mounting of the case.... Thsoe ties will only add vibration and noise!
  14. I just changed the first top fan to exhaust....sounds strange but the cpu temp was raised by 2-4C. So basicly, the first fan as an inlet wasn't that bad at all.