NotSoEpicMods

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  1. Update #4 June 14, 2014 Ok since the internet is being all crappy tonight it gives me a good excuse to work on my desktop so I will just leave this spoiler right here: Update #5 June 16, 2014 Alright finally managed to get my pc up and running again no thanks to my terrible internet dc’ing all day when I just wanted my drivers . Anyways I did get quite a bit of progress(at least I think it’s a lot of progress) and upgraded some hardware so here we go. Edit: warning lots of large pics First off I apologize but I forgot to take pictures of the completed plasti dipped cables and pci cards but here’s what the cards look like in the system. As you can see..or not see they blend in really well with PSU. I did however remember to take pictures of the sata cables I did since I didn’t like the white on them. Before: After: So I thought that the pci-e extensions looked pretty horrid going all the way down and across to behind the mobo tray. I figured it looked much better going straight across to the 5.25″ area so I grouped them up and tied it off then cut a hole in the back of the 5.25″ bays for the cables to pass into the cable management area of the case. Alright next to address the issue of my hard drives. Since my previous plan failed I spent a good 30 mins while eating my pulled pork sammich thinking of how to mount these bulky hard drives. Well here’s something I thought of and learned why not mount them like all other case manufactures do with cables at the back of the mobo tray. While trying to fit the drive in sideways I learned a hard drive is approximately the same length as a 5.25″ bay is wide, bonus! So I marked things out and had 1 drive per 5.25″ bay allowing for better cooling for the drives and I doubt I will ever need more than 4 hard drives. So first off is cut some slots for the sata data and power cables(picture is blurry because I’m a bad camera man): Next I needed something to hold the hard drives firmly in place so a short trip to my local Canadian Tire for some aluminum angle stock. And of course foolish me tried to precisely drill holes with a dremel *facepalm* that failed and I wasted about 6″ of the stock. So I visited my mom’s(<3 you mom) where my drill press was and did a better job of making a bracket oh and I found something to address my front panel audio situation(more on that in another update). I only had a piece of plexi for the visible bracket since I have plans for a custom bracket once I plan out my WC upgrade. Also the non connector side of the hard drives is resting on the 5.25″ drive bay tabs. So yes they are secure enough since this system isn’t being shipped anywhere. Now that the drives have been cleaned up it’s time to hide those case badges that yes look horrible but at the time I didn’t have a windowed side panel so they were mostly hidden. I do have some sentimental value to them for some reason so time to hide them. Grabbed some plexi and cut to fit then remember those blue plastic risers from my older post? Well found a use for them and those screws. If you’re wondering what I used to glue those risers to the plexi it was trusty old J-B Kwik Weld. This was before I went out and bought the SSDs but here’s how I planned to mount them(logo is far off in the future of the build) Used up the last of my plasti dip painting that stealth cover the result you may also notice I only have 4 mounting holes. Reason being if I ever plan to go back to a single SSD I won’t have unsightly holes in the stealth cover(points for thinking ahead right?). In the mean time waiting for that stealth cover to dry I unboxed those SSDs, those sexy sexy SSDs. I would’ve gone with Samsung’s but I’ve heard horror stories of their RMA process for Canadians and I’ve dealt with Kingston once before and it was a fairly easy RMA process if something did happen. So no one makes the specific extensions I needed, most likely because it’s a very long custom length, so I made my own from some molex adapters and some wire. Everything done and mounted. Well that’s all I got for now the next week or 2 is gonna be a little busy for me so I might not have any updates for a bit. Thanks for checking out my build. Update #6 September 8, 2014 Hey long long long time no see. I apologize for my absence but you know how real life goes. Anyways my b-day is coming up on Tuesday and I decided to give myself a present this weekend which was spending 16 hours tearing apart my computer and rebuilding it again. Best b-day present ever…….I think. I literally just finished putting it together 20 mins ago and I’m currently writing this while on it and I hope it doesn’t mysteriously crash. Though the curing paint smell makes me wary. So the challenges to overcome this time around: 1: I plan on water cooling and I plan on mounting items on the bottom of the case I run into this issue: As you can see the PSU filter is accessed from the inside of the case. While this is pretty convenient I wouldn’t be able to access it once the bottom of the case has something which makes me wonder why there was a fan mount there. 2: This is a kill 2 birds with one stone dealio. I almost never use my front panel I/O other than the power button and my headphone jack for splitting the game audio away from my music audio when I record game footage. So many of the cables from the I/O are unused and take up a ton of my cable management space. So I found this from an old comp I had: It’s a separate front I/O of just the audio ports I truly lucked out that I had this and you can see what else I was planning by the aluminum angle stock I had cut that’s in the pic. 3: The terrible green on the motherboard heatsinks. You can see pictures of this in my previous post and yes they def don’t match the system and while I do plan on upgrading my cpu/mobo it’s not going to be until I get a custom water loop going. 4: Another 2 for 1! Tidy up the cables going to the motherboard even more and fix the terrible reinforcement bends in the mobo tray. As you may have seen in my previous pics my cables have to travel faaaaaaar from the cable management holes to reach my standard ATX motherboard. 5: Start planning for custom water cooling loop to replace 3yr old H100. The Solutions: 1: So somehow I still have to make my PSU filter accessible when I install water cooling items. Why not copy what current cases do and make is accessible from under the case! First stop Canadian Tire, ahh the store you love to hate or at least I love to hate. I picked up 4ft of U channel aluminum stock for about $6 so not too bad and I’m gonna have a ton extra for other stuff. I also bought a $4 can of flat black spray paint for things. The PSU filter had some thin risers on it which I trimmed down with a box cutter knife so it would nicely fit in the U channel. It fits nicely now to cut the aluminum to length. With some double sided tape magic I got those rails stuck to the bottom of the case. I also has to add a small piece of paper under the case feet mounts to help cover a bit of a gap between the filter and the case, I will have to find a more permanent solution in the future. You’ll notice that it’s not coming out the back of the case and you’re probably thinking “You idiot! You’re just as bad as the guy who put it inside the case!” Well unfortunately the feet attachments are in the way of me being able to slide out the filter from the back which is probably why they put the filter inside the case in the first place. But I’ll take tipping over the case every once in a while to slide out that filter rather than no filter. 2: Oh those front panel cables I took it off which was easy only 2 screws. Turns out there’s 4 other screws underneath to access everything. After popping that open I was pleasantly surprised turns out all those thick cables I wanted to get rid of are just extension cables and the PCB of the I/O is separate from the power button PCB. I promptly took those items out and was left with only 3 thin wires coming from the front panel, awesome more cable management room! I will have to find something to fill this area with though. Now for moving my headphone jack I used JB Kwik weld to stick those brackets I made to the small unit and cut a spot in the rear of the case. You can see I had a bit of an issue with drilling the holes to mount it. I blame my lack of a drill and drill bits. That should work. 3: So before I got too far into the case I thought I should deal with the mobo heatsinks first since they will need time to dry. The ugly: The less ugly(unfortunately you can still see some green on the MOSFET heatsink since I didn’t want to apply too many coats and missed it): But wait that rear I/O still looks kinda ugly. Glad I had the scotch tape there from the other pics. I guess that’ll do. 4: Yup obviously had to cut some holes so i marked up my case and started cutting. Woah what the heck happened in that last pic? Well I went out and spent a whole $1 on a giant 22″x28″ bristol board sheet what was dark dark grey. Staples calls it black but it isn’t as you can see by the bottom piece which isn’t painted that I cut for a template to make a plexi insert. Anyways I measured my case internals and cut out a mobo tray cover spray painted it and put it in. I like it what do you guys think? So nothing to do now other than throw everything together so I can use it to post this update. Yea so my cable management isn’t the best but hey this time I didn’t have to almost stand on my sidepanel to get the thing to close. Is it getting sexier and sexier or what. Please tell me what you guys think even if it’s bad or suggestions. 5: Alright I’m planning for water cooling(CPU only, GPU block not available) and have come up with a parts list. I’m hoping to be able to afford these items by the end of the year. I’m am new to custom water cooling so I would love suggestions on what you think of my parts selection but please remember I’m planning ahead so I’m wanting this WC loop ready to be able to have 1 maybe 2 GPUs pluged in when I upgrade my cpu, mobo, and gpu someday. http://www.frozencpu…tl=g30c107s1802 http://www.frozencpu…l?tl=g30c95s161 http://www.frozencpu…l?tl=g30c95s161 http://www.frozencpu…c409s1612#blank http://www.frozencpu…O_-_Acetal.html http://www.frozencpu…8_-_Black_.html http://www.frozencpu…e_Sys_Prep.html http://www.frozencpu…voir_Strip.html I’ve already test fit the part sizes in my case and they will fit with some kajigering. Mainly moving my bottom 2 hard drives up so my pump can fit underneath(I’m not going to have a fitting on top of the pump like my model shows). I also have about 1″ of space between the top rad and the top of the res if frozencpu’s installation height measurement of 400mm is correct. Phew that was a long one thanks for checking out my build log.
  2. Update #2 June 10, 2014 So got a bit of an update. After work I stopped by my local Canada Computers and picked up a new 24-pin extension. As some of you may know the Cosmos S has a touch sensitive power button which mine surprisingly(knock on wood) still works perfectly. However as you can see in my previous pics that the 24-pin extension looks horrid. Well here’s what I picked up: So I’ll be splicing in the case power connector into this extension tomorrow. Also since I work with cars for my job I have easy access to Plasti Dip which is amazing. So I pulled my D-Link PCI wireless card to test out painting the back of it because I don’t really care if I kill it since I rarely use it. Plasti Dip says to let it dry for 4 hours before use so I’m gonna let it dry overnight. So I’ll be painting this card tonight and if the Plasti Dip doesn’t kill it somehow which it shouldn’t I’ll be doing the same to my other green backed cards. Update #3 June 11, 2014 Alright so I managed to get a bit of work done today on this and I’m pretty happy with what I was able to get done. So I picked these up at work and I’m gonna try and use them for mounting my hard drives differently in the system. If you don’t know what they are they’re plastic concrete anchors which these are #14×1-1/2″ which work great as spacers/anchors for stuff in computers. Here I cut them down to the approx size I wanted to avoid the drive’s board shorting out on something. Also I got these really nice looking black 6-32 screws for mounting the hard drives, they use a hex head instead of the usual philips you see. I slapped together that wireless card and tested it to make sure I didn’t mess it up and it works and looks way better than before. Oh also as note to anyone using plasti dip and masking areas off always have a super sharp knife with you. I tried to peel the tape off but it was pulling the plasti dip off the card too so I had to cut the plasti dip as I pulled the tape off. It turned out pretty good looking for an experiment. Since I was on a roll for painting with plsati dip I thought why not paint more stuff. Front panel connectors, a few more pci cards and a power supply should do. I managed to source some vented PCI slot covers and well I’m not sure about them in the end the case is going to be neutral/slightly negative air pressure so I may have to find another solution for slot covers maybe plain Jane black non vented ones. Also remember that 24 pin extension that looked horrid? Here’s a close up of it: So if you ever wondered what Bitfenix alchemy cables look like underneath all that sleeving well it’s just plain black wire. Splicing the case button power connector to the new extension was easy and taped down with lots of electrical tape to avoid the soldered splice from being damaged in any way and to hold the sleeving that I cut in place(that stuff frays like crazy after being cut and even after melting with a lighter) . Besides no one is ever gonna see this part of the extension in the finished build. So for the final bit of this update is a roadblock I’ve hit in my plans. Originally I was going to mount the Hard drives vertically on the inside of the 5.25″ bays. Here’s a pic with a test fit drive to show how I was going to orient them but on the inside instead of where I’m holing it. So a few problems with this: the cable management will still be horrible if you look through the side of the case from the rear. Also it seems less space efficient because I have to use spacers to avoid the tabs that usually hold the 5.25″ devices up. Also the holes that are already in the case for the 5.25″ bays don’t line up at all with the HDD holes and I wasn’t in the mood for drilling holes at the time. So those screws and plastic risers in my first pic will have their uses found somewhere else. I have an idea already for a new way of mounting the drives but that’s going to have to wait until at least the weekend because it requires a little more work than just slapping spacers on some screws. Also see if you can tell what other change is going to be included in the next update from that picture just above I know some of you have eagle eyes out there.
  3. Update #1 June 9, 2014 Long time ago back in 2008 I made one of my largest(literally) most expensive PC purchases and that was the $300 Cooler Master Cosmos S case. To this day I still see it as one of the most beautiful off the shelf cases out there hence the build/project. While I still see it as an amazing case it does lack in a lot of areas that modern cases strive in and almost make it easy to build a nice looking average pc in(no offence but it’s true with all the cable management stuff built into higher end cases). Where this case really falls short in is: Low amount of cable management, restrictive meshes, unpainted interior, no side window, I’m sure there’s more. So here I am today 6 years later trying to make the Cosmos S relevant again, or at least make my system look better, hoping that CM will come out with a Cosmos S v2 or a Cosmos T or something. Here’s some of the earliest pictures I could find of what the system used to look like in chronological order.(warning some of these may make you cringe) Here’s the Current Setup: -CM Cosmos S -Phenom II x6 1090T @ 4Ghz -Corsair H100 push pull -Asus Sabertooth 990FX -16GB Patriot Memory -XFX R7950 DD @ 1Ghz core, 1.35Ghz memory -D-Link Wireless pci-e card -AVerMedia TV pci card -TP-Link Gigabit LAN pci-e card -1x DVD RW, 1x Blu-Ray reader/DVD RW -1x 300GB WD Caviar Black (main OS drive), 1x 1.5TB WD Caviar Green(game capture storage/scratch disk), 2x 2TB WD Red drives(main storage in raid 1 for redundancy) -Corsair HX850 -Various Cougar fans Validation This is how it currently looks as of June 9, 2014 First thing to be done is removing those 2 optical drives to give the exterior a slightly better uniformed look which will also allow me to install 3x 120mm fans in the front of the case. Then up to the top cover to cut out the metal and plastic grills leaving only the mesh. I was going to replace the mesh of my side panel with a glass insert. Well not being able to find a place that does custom flat sheet glass that was in my area I decided to settle with plexiglass (eww I know). So I took my side panel and headed down to my hardware store and bought a piece of plexi. Since I just needed a simple square piece cut I asked them if they would cut it and they said sure but the guy who knows how to operate their fancy saw wasn’t in yet. So they said if you leave the side panel and your number with us we can cut a piece of plexi to fit and call me when it’s done so I said sure since the cuts were free. As some of you who may have owned a Cosmos S in the past there are stand offs on the inside of the side panel to screw a plastic insert that held a 200mm fan and the modders mesh. Well when they put the plexi panel in(which wasn’t even cut square) they decided to use the screws also even though there are clips that hold the plexi. So what happened is that the screws pushed against the aluminum of the side panel and caused a raised bump to show on the exterior of the side panel *facepalm*. I talked with the manager to replace my side panel since they damaged it and they refused to since they can’t order via their in store system or something. So I asked to at least get a full sheet of plexi for free so I can do it properly myself, which I got. It’s been about a week and I still haven’t replaced that badly cut piece of plexi since it is serving its purpose and won’t be seen once the case is closed. I added extra washers onto the screws so they no longer press against the aluminum. The problem is that I still had those horrid bumps visible on the beautiful brushed aluminum. I found some matt black screws and cut the heads off with a hacksaw and contoured them with a dremel. It turned out not too bad. The screw heads are just held on with some very very thin “permanent” scotch double sided tape. Also the Cosmos S logo that was on the mesh was just too nice to not have on the side panel. Getting the logo off was a breeze since you can soak it in alcohol and just push on it through the mesh. For the logo I used some reusable scotch double sided strips so that I could more easily relocate the badge somewhere if I needed. All in all it turned out alright considering the mess ups. The screw heads match the raised badge and don’t look as out of place. Well that’s all I got done for now I get off work early Wednesday so we’ll see what I can do then.
  4. Hello good people of the CM forum I'm new here and would like to share my build with you. Not sure if it should be in build worklogs or mod worklogs. Way back in 2008 I purchased a Cosmos S and began doing some mods to it since 2014. I will be sharing some older content but I feel it's important to include everything I can so you can see where the build came from and where it ended up. Think of it like a biography of the case's life.