random2k4

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  1. Just one more picture for scale puropse:
  2. Just wanted to add one more picture, so you can see the scale a little better.
  3. And also a video showing the making-of and the LEDs in motion.:
  4. If pictures are not enough, here is a video showing the making-of in greater detail and all of the functions and light effects.
  5. And ofc some final pictures
  6. For the LED panels I still needed to build a small shroud. I simply cut some acrylic into shape and painted in in the same color as the panels itself. They were put into place just by some double sided tape. If you know the movie, you know that the WOPR has some lables all around. At first, I wanted to make a stencil and spray it on, but watching the movie again, made me realize, they just used some vinyl to make the lables. So, I went over to my vinyl cutter and made my own. And attached them already. To start the computer and LEDs later, I needed some buttons. They should not be visible from the outside, So I put them behind the cover at the front. Programming the LEDs was now the last step. Its really a bunch of code. Here you can see a picture from the work in progress, but it already shows the effect pretty good.
  7. Next, the panels for the cockpit were put into place. I added two more switches to the mid section. One is starting the water pump and the other switches the temperature sensor on and off. It was already visible in the upper pictures, but before I glued the panels in, I bend some acrylic tubes for the water cooling and connected the CPU to the loop. I think this is my very first mod where the drain valve is actually the lowest spot in the loop. Its right at the front and easily accessible. It will be covered with the nose part later. I already made a test, and I get like 99% of the water out of the loop this way. The special Titan X GPU will sit in the back. The opening I planned before, was not big enough. I just grabbed my Proxxon and made it a little bigger. The edges were covered with aluminum profiles. This also added a bit more stability. Luckily, my wife loves painting, so I got some help for the weathering. First all detail lines were colored in a dark tone, to highlight the separation of the panels. Then multiple layers of grey, brown and black color were dabbed on to achieve a used look. Now that the X-Wing is basically done, I needed a place for it. Its really hard to find suitable tables in the right size and height, so I build my own one as a stand for the mod. Yes, I build my own table for a case mod ^^ To hold the weight of the X-Wing, I constructed a large base from multiple layers of ply wood. At one end, I included a steel pole. The top side will bear a smaller base, that will be directly attached to the body of the X-Wing with screws.
  8. While working on the electric, I soldered another light effect. The 4 "lasers" should also shoot some light, two at each time. So the left top and right bottom and vise versa at the same time. Therefore, I made this simple circuit using two capacitors and two transistors. You will see it later in the video. I also reworked the motorization of the BB8 and switched from a servo to a Arduino controlled stepper motor. Also, more in the video ^^ Then it was finally time to work on the inside of the X-Wing. I started in the front section of the main body and applied some carbon vinyl. Here the water tanks will be placed. Ok, I added the water tank and the first fittings right after. On the inner wall, I attached an RGB strip and soldered the controller right at the front. Before working on the cockpit, I needed to spray paint the walls first. To keep the design, I also applied some carbon vinyl to the inside. Also this was the time to put the mobo into place. I wanted to make the cockpit look more like an actual space ship cockpit. So, I first make some empty panels to see my layout. The panel on the middle has a big hole in it. Here I will make a cover later that can be removed to work on the cables. After I decided what I wanted to place on the panels, I drilled in all needed holes. Then LEDs and switches were placed. The cover for the middle panel also got the typical symbol from the rebellion.
  9. After adding the 5th exhaust, I reworked the other 4 also a little bit. You might remember, I installed a normal RGB LED strip in each exhaust. This maybe looks nice, but I dont have much controll over the LEDs. So, I took some of my left over APA106 LEDs from the WOPR project, which are indivudual adressable. I wanted to install 8 LEDs in each exhaust the get a nice and diffused light. All had to be connected to 104 nF capacitors first. To make them fit perfectly and ensure an even distribution of light, I printed some spacers and soldered the LEDs into place. The animation, I had in mind was something like a starting jet engine. So maybe some explosions at start and then a fading effect from red to yellow to blue. This indicates, the turbin will go up in speed. When blue, there will be some white light sparks, giving the imnpression the engine is actually running. All is done with an Arduino Nano to save space. Here are some pictures of the transition. More in the making-of video later. I coulndt wait and had to install two wings and see the effect.
  10. In some designs, the T-70 X-Wing has another turbine/exhaust part at the back directly in the middle. So I wanted to resemble this also. And ofc 5 exhausts look better then just 4. I designed a simple part and 3D printed it. After some sanding you could really see the final form. I found this small Cooler Master 60mm fan in a random box. I thought why not put it inside the exhaust. Looks OK so far. Then the part was painted in the same style as the other exhaust parts from the turbines. Also the fan was glued into place. at the end I made a first test fit on the main body.
  11. I started with one layer of grey primer. The mod will be painted on multiple steps, area by area, so I started with the bottom sorounding. The color chosen by the client will be a light grey tone. To get the most perfect finish, I sprayed only some areas at once with an airbrush. It was directly followed with some layers of clear coat. Because Gray color on a Gray primer has a very good contrast, here is a picture were you can actually see the difference. And then the paint job was done. Next up, the doors. Next, I made the doors. I started with some layers of gray color and clear coat. I designed and printed an opening mechanism. After processing it was painted silver. And then the doors were done. Also made a test if everything fits. Also made a test together with the LED panels. Now only some small details are missing.
  12. I 3D printed small clips were the panels should rest in. To hold them in place, I cut a tread into an aluminium profile and glued it to the inside. Now, I am just using a small bolt, washer and wing nut to prevent the panel from moving. And more pictures now from the outside. I soldered connectors to each pannel, so I can install/remove them independantly. Later each pannal should be controlled by one pin of the arduino, But for testing, I just chained them together. When in full RGB mode, the power supply is strong enought to power all LEDs up to 50%. Anything higher and the 40A arnt enough For a first test, I installed the pannels to the case and run the Neopixl strandtest. I reduced the brightness to 20% which is more then enough. Maybe I will tone it down even more at the end. And again a small reminder, if someone wants to get involved into the project, I am still searching for help, for programming the LEDs. Lets say I am very new to this topic. I also started with the cable management. I only have to add the power ine for the pannels and I am ready to go.
  13. The original WOPR has a bunch of lights. If I am not mistaken there are rougly 666 bulbs on the front and back. I tried to get the basic outline of the arrangement, but scaled it down to fit my size. The paneles were machined for me in the specific layout I wanted. Before applying the paint, I sanded the surface to make the primer stick a bit better. While the silver paint was drying. I worked on the LED part. I ordered a bunch of LEDs and transistors. For this project, I will use 533!!! LEDs. Each individual LED was pre-tested to ensure its working correctly. So far, I only got 6 LEDs that had some malefunction. Then it was time to solder a 0,1 uF capacitor to each LED. And hours later. After it was done, the LEDs were glued in place. And of course more soldering. Now I connected the Data IN and Data Out of each LED. Done yet? Close but not so fast my friends. Also the plus and minus needed to be connected. I also made a quick test if each row is working. First panel done 3 more to go. Finally LED panels are done.
  14. To finish the project for the CMWS , I started to add a little bit more details. I made some inserts for the turbines. And because I needed 4 of them I just thought it would be a nice idea to try some mold making and casting. I made a simple one part mold and casted the 4 pieces in Smooth Cast 300. After some sanding, I could prime and color the parts. They were glued into the turbine. For the inner side of the wings, I also wanted to add details. First I build something that should look a bit like an engine part. Then I printed, cut and casted a lot of small parts for even more details. They were partly combined into bigger pieces before adding a couple layers of spray filler. After a quick wet sanding, all parts were painted. And ofc installed. Here you can see a before and after. I also added some details to the top part of the wing.