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About MrVoidX

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  1. So while I wait for those final cables to come in, here's a little preview of the final product: The interesting thing is when it's off, it's just a mirror finish black block and when on, you get to see the internals. Here's what remains of the old case (it's been slowly falling apart, acrylic isn't the best support material):
  2. So things briefly came to a halt after the water block LED controller broke off, but I've fixed that. Before: After: Right now I'm just waiting on some cable extensions before I fill the reservoir and boot it up.
  3. Just did a test with the panel on. Unfortunately I fried the circuit that charges the battery for the power button. Going to need to replace the Arduino Fio board that controls it. I made the stupid mistake of plugging the molex while the power was on and I plugged it in reverse (5v <->12v... X_X). On the + side, everything else seems OK. Since animated lights aren't the best to pick up with a cellphone camera, your not seeing it all, but it gives you an idea.
  4. So I started putting together everything. As you can see in the rear panel picture, the GPU is viced in with metal tab holding it from below and pushing it up against the acrylic frame. From the top there's a sheet of rubber and a bump in the metal tab to prevent any wobbling of the card. From Amazon I found these wire clips with double sided tape that'll work nicely for cable management. However the tape was weak and I used tip ties since the loops are on the small side. To get around the weak tape issue, I just used crazy glue instead. I also did some test lighting and it looks pretty cool.
  5. Since the last post, I've done a number of things. I took a temperature sensor and swapped the molex power connector with a two pin connector and sleeved the cable. This will be mounted in front of the motherboard tray. The button on the left is a latching switch to change between C & F. I also added lighting to the main frame and connected it to the motherboard tray with a fan connection in the event I need to detach the tray. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Update: just started taking the old case apart to move parts over to the new case. It served me well.... (until it started to fall apart)
  6. Just painted the metal parts (PSU holder, MB tray and main body)
  7. Here's the case frame. You'll notice 4 stubs on the top and bottom; these are the points that attach to the vents. Currently I'm using a dremel metal brush to rough up the aluminum before painting.
  8. Just finished the drive and put the sleeving on. I noticed the fans will cause the LEDs to flicker when the fans are under 100%. This is a good sign I need to add a rectifier diode on the fan header board in the vent (I was hoping to avoid reopening it, guess not). ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So after playing with a number of circuits to solve the problem of the flickering LED; looks like the solution is just to add a 1mF capacitor on the 12v source and a rectifier diode on the 12v line going out to the fans.
  9. So once again, I get side tracked with another flub. This time as I was gluing the drive bay to the front panel, the 1/8 walls bowed inward at the center. I was using two drive at the top and bottom for placement, but I screwed them in tight to the point the wall bent in. Fortunately glue was weak enough for me to nudge off some of the walls without breaking the panel. Another thing that held me back was that I was using stacked acrylic nuts as spacers for the fan control, but they kept sheering off. So to fix this problem I routed a channel and filled it with acrylic gel glue... and to make it look nice, sanded it to a nice round cylinder. Below is a picture without the glue filled channel and the glue filled channel circled. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Update: just glued the front face of the drive. Now I just have to do the sleeving.
  10. Just added a github with all the micro-controller code: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- As for the aluminum sections, I've been working on those parts since August. So I got a lot to post with regards to that. So to kick things off, I'll start with the vents. So the aluminum portions primarily serve as skeletal support with two acrylic sheets to produce semi-air tight cove. Besides reducing noise by having the fans placed more inwards, all the fans are connected to the vent making wire management a lot easier. Also, each vent is connected with just 4 screws. So without need to remove each fan, I can take out the entire radiator setup with 4 screws and removing a single fan header and tubes. Note, the magnified photo shows the fans pins without the plastic guide, but I added those later. UPDATE: just added a side by side picture of the intake and exhaust vent. The intake has the side where air is pulled showing with the other showing its opposite side where the fan connector attaches.
  11. So it turns out it was all a misunderstanding of how the serial communication reports available bytes. So I got the fan/lighting controller up and running.
  12. So I just finished some work on the front of the drive containing the fan controller/ power/ oled display. Originally I wanted to add a small fan to cool the disk dives, but I'm out of room. Since I got the front face laser cut, I wanted to avoid screwing up some holes, so I used a clear piece of plastic as a guide. On the back I have two acrylic screws to hold the power button and a bracket to hold the OLED in place.
  13. Finished sanding and buffing the drive bays; eventually I'll have this glued to the front panel. Also, I started work on the drive containing the OLED display, power and fan controller. Since acrylic isn't the friendliest material to thread, I used acrylic nuts that I glued to the inner wall of the drive. Although wide enough to have all 3 screw holes to each side, I opted for just the front 2.
  14. So while I figure out the fan issue, I started work on the drive bays. To make sure they're as accurate as possible, I started with the smallest bit to get the exact spot and drilled the second panel using the first as a guide with the smallest bit. The side walls are 1/8 thick while the top and bottom are 1/4. Normally gluing 1/8 at a right angle is impractical, but with the 1/4 inch top and bottom, joining them to the front panel should be more manageable.
  15. Just got a usb hub to join all the micro controllers together. This is going to fit in the drive encolsure that'll contain the power button, OLED display and fan controller. I also gutted the OLED from my old case. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Mini-update: looks like the board I got for the fan controller isn't properly setup for "EEPROM" storage. So I'll need to swap it for one that is. I'll probably have that setup by the end of next week. On to the rest of the case!