Explore Modding

Members
  • Content Count

    28
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About Explore Modding

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Finally got started with the paintjob! I had a very specific idea for this: balancing a stone colour/effect with shiny red details that resembled the minerals inside the stone. For that purpose, I chose two colours for the stone, an avory white and a golden grey, and helped myself with two different stone effects from Rustoleum. They're simply clear coats with chunks of paint in it, that will simulate a stone-ish look after having dried. I started with the main frame of the chassis, giving it the golden grey Then I moved on to the two panels from the lightbox, as well as the two back panels (how cool to they look when clear? ). This time I went with the avory white And the internal top and bottom panels are done as well I also gave a stone look to the radiator, and now it's a true monolith with crystal fins! Some will have doubts about painting the fins, but to be honest, for what I want to achieve with this project, I won't need those 2-3 degrees, but I really needed to get rid of most of the black in the build It's external panels' turn now. I mainly used avory white for these, except for the plastic part of the front panel, for which I used the golden grey
  2. Same treatment for the top panel, again cut with a scrollsaw And now something pretty unique. Aside from the resin panels, the new technique I couldn't wait to try out for this project was... growing crystals! And what better fitting project than a Realgar project? What I did was forming a shape in polymer clay, let it dry, then coating it with glue and lay some borax on the surface, so that it could cover it and stay there once the glue dried. Then I boiled some water and created a saturated solution with borax, adding it until it couldn't dilute anymore. I put the piece in the solution, waited over night and here you go: a nice big geode! Unfortunately, I tried to dye the solution with red, because I wanted the crystals to be red, but it turned out I had to add sooo much dye in order to obtain a crystal that was red enough. In fact, what I got was more like a pink salt colour Ready to take on another try (that would've meant buying gallons of dye), I thought YOLO and tried to paint the crystal with a metallic red, which is also a bit translucent, so maybe I wouldn't have lost most of shine from the crystals. And it turned out awesome, even better than I could've imagined! This is what it was made for Still for the front panel, I had to make something to fill the other cutouts I made. So I cut a pair of acrylic panels, turned them into a frame and taped the bottom with aluminum tape. It was time for another epoxy pour!
  3. A quick look at the first tubing mock-up. I thought I would do something less intricate with the loop this time but I just can't help it, I love parallel runs Made the bracket for the PSU mounting in the top section I reshaped the two back panels with this characteristic cut I'm bringing along this whole project, to make it smoother and more geometric Also began working on the front and top panels cutouts, I made this simple design in Silhouette Studio, cut the stencil and went over it with a pen once I applied it to the panel, this way all the sections in both panels will be exactly the same. It would've been hard doing it by hand since they're very irregular shapes. Obviously cut with my trusty scrollsaw And as anticipated in the previous post, I swapped the red LEDs of the lightbox with WRGB strips
  4. I love it!
  5. Very last update before the final photos and video! It's time for tubing, a few more panels, cable management and final tweaks here and there. Let's start with the tubing and a very particular routing Composite panel to close the bottom of the top case, along with clear smoked rear panel Cable management at the top. This was tricky Finally mounted the in-between covers for the cables that run across the cases Last two painted panels for SSD and mini front cover with signature and glimpse of the coolant! All ready to be fired up! Windows installed
  6. Made a lightbox for the front layered panels, I made it with red LEDs at first but I'll change it to WRGB later And now doing something that I think could be implemented in a possible "Gaming Version" of the SL600M: a lit trim behind the front panel! I started cutting an acrylic frame to size and bending it using the original panel as a template When I put the frame behind the aluminum I had to adjust the bend radius so I heated more and shaped it perfectly As for the plastic part of the front, I cut off all the pieces that were sticking out, to allow more space for the cables that will run through the front Here are the lightbox lit and the front trim
  7. Mounting system for the fan controller This midplate is something you'll soon see what it's there for Attached four lightbars to the center case for a particular lighting effect Started the paintjob and polishing phase for the aluminum profiles A lot of cables run all across the three cases so I had to insert them before assembling the structure And the paintjob goes on with other panels, Sky Three logo and Tokyo skyline This is the dark side of this build: lots of cables at the bottom for the 14 fans, two pumps and all the RGB lights Time for some eye candy with a lighting test
  8. Currently working on some boring stuff like little cuts on the cases to make everything fit properly, I'm close to starting the paint phase. While we wait, I'll show you some of the hardware that will go in the build. Powered by Adata XPG, Watercool and Asrock!
  9. This time we'll see a lot of panelling, on the back, on the front, in the inside... At the back we'll find a window all around the I/O area At the front, I put two aluminum strips that will replace the middle tubes as I don't like them very much and don't help the structure integrity To recall the handles of the original cases, Coolermaster Q300P, I decided to put new aluminum ones at the angles in the front, these will also allow a more comfortable time moving this beast around if necessary In the lower area, I made a cover that will house all the cables from fans and pumps For the cables that will run all the way from the PSU to the bottom, I made some covers to mount between the cases And to close this update with the bang, I started working on the hardware compartment with a lot of panelling, we will also see the mounting position of the SATA SSD from Adata XPG
  10. Today we'll take a look at the side hinged panels that will house the intake fans, some case-cutting to start making room for everything and the gigantic radiators paired with amazing reservoir/pumps from Watercool and fans from Noiseblocker! Hoping to bring you guys some nice photos of the hardware I received so far as soon as possible! So let's start with the making of the hinged panels Now to the front aluminum strips and first big cuts to the cases Almost everything cut down, top case is next for the lifting All three hinged panels completed at my booth at Campus Party Italia Fantastic combo of Watercool/Heatkiller rads and res/pumps, together with some nice Noiseblocker fans. This will be soooo cool in so many ways!! Now making the mounting for those combos from 8mm tinted acrylic And here they are mounted
  11. Made some progress on one side... those lighting pieces from the Q300P's came in really handy!
  12. Today we're taking a look at some pieces I've made with the epoxy resin from Resin Pro, which are the center panel that will hold most of the hardware, and the power button. I obviously started by making the mold for the panel Then I made a couple pours, the final thickness will be about 15mm but I really didn't want the resin to get too hot so I proceded with pours of about 5/6mm each. The surface changed completely while the resin cured, that's one thing to keep in mind if you want a very specific look Next up was cutting the panel in the shape I wanted and doing some more creative work on one side and then clear coating with a thin pour. I used aluminum tape to seal the edges After sanding and doing a bit of polishing I made the mount to the case, using a hollow aluminum tube with a threaded bar inside, which goes from bottom to top of the case, while I made a simple bracket on the back that attaches to the radiator. This way the panel is 100% solid mounted And now a little bonus I mentioned before, the gem as power button
  13. Adding some crystal patterns to the radiator covers that will also serve as something else other than covers. You'll see as I go on with the fabrications
  14. Made this to replace the previous PSU mounting. It will be a sort of lightbox, it's composed of three layers: a white opale one, and two clear with crystal patterns that will be painted red and in white stone effect. Can't wait to see this all painted and lit up
  15. A quick update on some modifications I made to the case and to the layout Initially, you saw that I kept the PSU at the front with that fancy grill and all, but I realised it took up way too much space. So I realized that the top could easily house the PSU by cutting off some of the plastic structure of the external top panel. So what I have now is the PSU at the top and about 5cm more in the internals. Next was the rear I/O ports, that have to be rethinked because of the layout I'm going to use for the motherboard: I grabbed some panel extensions and integrated them to the rear foot: And last but not least, a simple yet very effective mod. The external panels on the SL600M come with a hooking systems that allows you to remove them by reaching the internal hooks and popping them off. This means you have to potentially open the case if you have to remove the external top or front panel, moreover you will have those hooks sticking out into the case, which make custom panels and covers hard to make. What I did was making four brackets with threaded inserts that I could fix the front panel to using four screws. Yeah now I have to use a screwdriver to take it off but at least I will have a flat area internally and I won't have to reach in the case to remove an external panel. Plus this was mandatory for the things I have in mind anyway