T-shirt

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About T-shirt

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    Snohomish, WA USA
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    well, computers are nice!

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  1. Short circuit, jumps to the top of the list. carefully reinstall everything, watching for any unintended contact, reversed or damaged wires, etc. the other possibility is a crack in the MB which flexs/disconnects something when the mounting screws are tightened.
  2. the manual is here http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/d945gnt/sb/CS-020710.htm
  3. I voted wattage, but I meant more about stable, clean power output that meets or exceeds the published spec, than total power output. All the things in the poll are important, but priority may change depending on what you are building the system for ie HTPC=quiet is very imporant windowed/modded case= apperance moves up the list etc
  4. So it's not the MB, it must bt the switch or the PSU you could remove the switch from your old case (or place them side by side so you can reach the MB pins with the wires from the old case) and see if that powers it up. (as I said above a jumper across the power pins will do the same test) You only want to do this briefly incase of a PSU fault or short!!! It's possible that the wrong switch was installed in the case or the wires were mislabeled try it without the reset switch attached
  5. Try a jumper across the pins, (be careful, ONLY the correct pins as shown in the manual!!!) if it starts the switch is bad or a momentary contact switch (are you sure its not the reset switch?) if it still just "bumps" the fans something else on the MB is not connected correctly (PSU fan? or the MB is defective
  6. T-shirt

    CCFLs

    You are mistaken In CCFL the gas is not the problem, but the Mercury (rarely used now) and the Phospers (the powered "rare earth" on the inside of the tube ,that create visible light when exposed to high intensity UV (which is what the mercury lets off when electfied) are both highly toxic. Neon uses gases (MOSTLY inert/harmless) which let off visible light directly when ionized (electrified) http://science.howstuffworks.com/question293.htm How Fluorescent Lamps Work NEITHER is safe to work on without proper knowledge and equipment. Definatly DO NOT modify a CCFL, the glass is too thin to safely rework. the neon is possible to bend somewhat with heat, but ordering the correct size is a much better idea :idea:
  7. That alone tells you you have serious power problems, but the numbers you posted are so out of spec, that they are worthless (if they were right your system would be fried) You need a multimeter or a bigger high quality PSU
  8. That alone tells you you have serious power problems, but the numbers you posted are so out of spec, that they are worthless (if they were right your system would be fried) You need a multimeter or a bigger high quality PSU
  9. If the pinout is correct, try vacumming out the USB ports, probably a little dust in there is making inappropiate contact
  10. Painting is always done after the cutting and forming. you will want to apply a protective plastic sheet over the paint to prevent scratches. The laser will leave a very thin burned edge in the paint, a waterjet will not. both methods rely on the skilland knowledge of the operator setting it up. He/She will gauge the metal and set the power/pressure accordingly. the existing paint probably can be saved, but you will need to paint the cut edge anyway, so I would suggest a thin,even painted pinstrip (pick a color that works with your design,even the same color but the texture will be different) around the edge. doing a good job is harder then it looks, find a sign painter, or car paint detail guy to help. Most will do a side job like this for $25+/hour
  11. ok that look fine, just go to a black wire or to the case (any permenently attacthed part the leads metal to metal all the way to the PSU)
  12. it's always a better idea to put the switch on the hot/power lead of a circuit and have the ground permenently attached to the output/ground end of the load.
  13. Most likely they are 3volt but you can check the output at the pins by setting the multimeter to the VDC in a slighly higher range say ten volts (always start high and work your way down. be careful what you touch
  14. avoid MEK and acetone, while both are effective cleaners they also are aggressive to the epoxies Plastics and lacquers used on your MB, and few spilled/splatered drops could cause mysterious problems later. The isopropyl alchohol (even 70%) is a good safer choice, but you may need to clean twice. BTW make sure you buy " isopropyl alchohol " not rubbibg alcohol (which is isopropyl alchohol with 3-6 % oil added to it) because that will leave a flim behind.
  15. My bad That's what I get for believing NewEgg product descriptions, which don't mention any of that and only show a single fan on the WBL