Christian Dela Rosa

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Everything posted by Christian Dela Rosa

  1. Most likely defective fan - file an RMA request.
  2. Truth spoken, babyzack - slap that cooler on there!
  3. You need to identify the +12V and ground leads and attached accordingly to the transformer. The other two wires are speed sensing and PWM control and don't need to be used. Look up "PWM fan pinout" on Google to help you pick out which wires you need.
  4. treesaredancing - please do post what their findings are. I'm very curious - thanks!
  5. It looks like the Product Data Sheets still show Socket 775 support, but I would have CM Support confirm.
  6. Agree with above here. Seidon should be silent and running full speed. That said, I wouldn't expect any issues dropping the speed to 75%, especially if the noise goes away. That would suggest that whatever flow restriction, pump mechanical characteristic, etc. is less prevalent at that speed so it may be beneficial to run it at 75%. However, these units should be quiet. Can you quantify and characterize the noise? Louder than your fans, bubbling, squealing , etc.? Ask the folks where you brought it whether THEY think the noise at 100% is "normal" (seems they avoid the question and say "temps are fine").
  7. Thanks - things just aren't making sense here. The installation should have been very straightforward with the TX3. You verified proper heatsink contact and fan operation when turning on the PC for the first time with the TX3 mounted, correct? Are you overclocked at all?
  8. You wonder if too high temps were the case? Have you checked temps on the BIOS screen when you first turned it on?
  9. It's hard to tell on the video, but have you ruled out each of the fans? That doesn't sound like flow noise. When the sound is occurring, try briefly stopping each of the fans and see if it goes away. If it is the water flow/pump - you've got some good magic going on there.
  10. Those are similar temps I have on a i7 2600 on a Seidon 240M. While there are many other factors which determine when a loaded CPU's thermal solution settles at, being at similar TDPs - you are probably on the good side.
  11. Form factor is labeled "Proprietary" on SM's website. Chances for fit don't look too good...
  12. It also sounds like if you're immediately getting the temp overheat shutdown right after turning it on - it's a sensor or BIOS issue. You should have some time to at least enter the BIOS screen while the CPU heats up. I recall inadvertently powering up an old AMD Athlon chip without a heatsink while the motherboard was on an open test bed and I know took at least a minute for the BIOS to register something was wrong. Do you have a easy to install stock cooler available? You can mount that temporarily onto the CPU (without paste even) and see if you can get into the BIOS screen - go to Computer Health and see what registers. If you can't get past powering on the motherboard - issue is most likely the mobo or sensor. Have you reset the CMOS?
  13. I'd test the PSU first before hooking it back up to the mobo. Do you have a "known good" spare PSU you could test the motherboard further on?
  14. I have heard of Peltier coolers integrated into CPU cooling solutions, but not an "add-on" device to connect up to the intake air. I'm sure it'll work - maybe it'll be more economical? As this is "off-topic", have you checked other forums to broaden the audience of this question (ATOT, HWS, etc.)?
  15. Thanks for the pics. I believe the stock fans are optimized for static pressure, and may provide better performance "pushing" air into the radiator. But honestly - you don't have much choice on the configuration of your fans, and I think the compromise you're dealing with having the fans on the "pull" side is pretty minimal.
  16. Some pics of the radiator/fan setup would be nice. If I read your description correctly, you didn't mount any fan direct to the radiator, did you?
  17. If no OC, you can do without the memory module cooler; as long as they have heat spreaders, the fan from the V8 will be plenty. PSU choices are fine (1200W? Wow - that's a lot), but I have only one experience with Ultra PSUs - and it wasn't good; but please, take that with a grain of salt. GTX 970? That's what I got in my rig.
  18. You could mod the case ports, if you feel brave enough. Your TT PSU is fine, but if it's 7 years old, if you can front the $ to replace it, I would. Or you could open it up and inspect the internal components for any signs of electrical distress (charring, leaking caps, etc.). My only other comment is that the DRAM price seems a bit high?
  19. It'll be tight. And even if you are able to fit it in, doubtful the full force of those fans will be directed at the memory modules. Also, you will need to contend with the additional noise. Are you overclocking to wits' end? If you aren't on the OC cutting edge, I don't see how the cooler would be the way to go. The airflow from the V8 may be sufficient to keep the modules cool enough? You could always purchase it and then return it if you absolutely can't get it to fit.
  20. He may be wanting to test the fan headers on his mobo. N!N0 - why can't u at least install a CPU and a stick of RAM?
  21. There's really no choice but to wipe off (anti static cloth) the big deposits and allow the rest to dry off. If u have a portable heater, low temp and direct it against it for a day (watch it of course). In parallel, RMA the cooler.
  22. Good to hear - I just read this post today, and was going to suggest after reading the original write-up - to DIY.