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About bth

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  1. bth

    Black Wavemaster blemishes

    Yeah I should've mentioned that... I tried wiping it off, no luck. I can try taking pics later on tonite. The weird part is that lighting is critical... some angles they stand out and very obvious, whereas directly looking on, for example, you can't see 'em. Strange!
  2. Kinda like fingerprints, but not really. I'm noticing some "blemishes" (for lack of a better term) on the top of my black Wavemaster. The best way to describe it is like if you place your palm on one of the panels, hold it for a few, and then release, you see a whitish film that usually disappears or wipes off. This is kinda like that, but doesn't wipe off. I can't tell if it's from me resting my hand in a few places while plugging stuff in, or just a result of the manufacturing process. How easy it is to see depends on the lighting. Anyone else see this? -Brian
  3. I'm happy to measure for ya but not quite sure what dimensions you're looking for. As you know, the top panel audio can be removed for an 80mm fan (which can be modded). So in my config I've got the PS -> top audio panel -> DVD drive. There's not a lot of extra space... but like I said I can measure if you give me your specs.
  4. bth

    fan filters

    Fabric softener sheets... lol! Thanks for the links guys!!
  5. bth

    fan filters

    Thanks guys... That's a cool idea Infinity... I'll have to see if I can steal some of my wife's. And thanks for the link, mr. miyagi. It looks like that's mainly packing foam, which may collect dust but won't allow enough air flow (although I could be wrong)... -Brian
  6. bth

    fan filters

    Thanks ... was hoping to find a big piece of foam that I can cut to fit, perhaps make my own housing for... any other suggestions?
  7. bth

    fan filters

    Hi all, I'm using a wavemaster case. I know some of this has been thrown around before, but any recommendations on where I can some fan filters that I can cut to shape and put in front of the intake fans? I want it to be easily removed; don't want to use the aluminum filters that attach to the fans. Thanks, Brian
  8. OK, here are some picts. I don't have anything TOO detailed on the switch because it's connected to the audigy card. According to the specs I've read, if you jumper pins 3 and 1 on the audigy card, it will mute the back speakers. So I took these two lines and ran them to one of the switches. Below is the audigy card. I run headphones and ground to the J1 header on the card. B/C I could not get the MIC to work through these pins, I piggybacked the solder points on the rear of the card, which is why there's 2 sets of cables. There's also the gray cable which is run to the DVD drive. I've got 2 switches on the front of the case -- one for the headphones, one for some case lighting. I just put these switches in a blank drive bezel. For the headphones, the two leads go to pins 1 and 3 on the audigy card (as I said). I could run these to the cable detect on the headphone port, so that if the cable is plugged in, it mutes the back panel. But, I liked the idea of having this in a switch because I may not want to mute the back speakers -- or, I may want to enable the back speakers to let someone hear something without having to pull the cable. This is the tricky part. The Wavemaster audio card is below. Pin 1 is the ground, which runs out the green wire (both headphones and mic share a ground cable). Pins 2-5 are all shorted to the yellow wire. The only way to break this is to break the connections, which I did using a drill. Note, for the green headphone jack, the connections are similar. You need to hold the card up to a light to see the connections. If you don't plan on using the cable detection, you can simply drill a small hole as you may see in the pict below (just beneath the yellow MIC line -- a small hole that severs the connection from the 2/3 and 4/5 pins. This will make pins 2&3 jumpered, which is ok, and pins 4 and 5 jumpered, which is ok. The point is, the PWR and MIC lines will be separate -- as they should be by default, but oh well. If you want to use the cable detection, it's a bit tricky to break these connections because the space between the pins is so small. For a connector, I took a small 3 pin adapter and using some hot glue, attached it to the board. Anyway, that's it! Good luck, let me know if you have questions. In your case, you can probably split the yellow cable and put it to MIC and MIC PWR on your mobo, but as I said, this isn't recommended for most MICs. Brian
  9. Sure, I can take some picts. Not sure if it'll be tonite but should be within a day or so. My setup is a tad different (WM and an Audigy card) but similar in idea. -Brian
  10. Well, it is completely possible but you probably won't like this. There may be a jumper or some other setting on the MB, but otherwise the way I see it is: You can resolder and rewire the jacks on the WM top audio port. They are capable of Line Detection, but it's all shorted together by default. Assuming this solution is just too over the top, you could take that jumper you made and wire it to a switch plate. Then, you can control the back audio by flipping the switch. That's kinda what I did -- I didn't want the back audio killed just because headphones are plugged in (atlhough sometimes I WOULD want that). I've got a switch bus fitting in one of my drive bays that control lights/etc, one just kills the back audio. That's probably easier that rewiring the WM top audio jacks -- I just did it for the MICs and it was a pain. Brian
  11. Why would you need to pull the mobo for installing a hard drive? Is there not enough room to slip it in there from the side? I guess it's possible (I'd need to look at mine) but I thought there was plenty of room. If you have that many drives such that you cannot slide in from the side, there's no way it would fit. Another way would be to remove the screws from the other drive, push 'em up to the top of the compartment to give you more wiggle room to slide one in, then rescrew. Brian
  12. Hi again, Try the bline out instead of line out. I'm guessing that it's "A line" and "B line" out -- if you connect to the first, it must be disconnecting the rear by default. Give it a whirl. Not sure about MIC, but that says Mic2 so I'd think you'd be ok. Brian
  13. I just finished doing this with my WM and Audigy 2 ZS card. The J1 is the correct header with the 10 pins. Note that pin 1 is the pin towards the center of the card (in case it wasn't already stated). I had to solder the cable directly to the pins to get them to stay. It's not CM's fault, this one is Creative Labs' fault. Unfortunately I cannot get the MIC to work right through these pins, I ended up soldering the MIC/MICPWR to the rear of the card, jumpering the rear input jack. Kinda cheesy, but works. Let me know if you need help.
  14. Hey dude, I just went through :) getting the top audio on my wavemaster connected to my Audigy. Mostly due to Creative Labs and their lack of support for their pin configurations, but also for some skimpy wiring on Coolermaster's side (sorry, you guys generally have great stuff, but the audio connectors are weak and not proper). In your case (and this is simply my opinion only, please try to verify this via the diagrams as necessary): MB has the following pins: MIC2 -- Yellow from WM AGND -- Green from WM MICPWR -- you're screwed. The wavemaster shorted the Mic/MicPWR, so really if you wanted this, you'd need to split Yellow yourself. Note this will work with most MICs, but it is not recommended to short these wires as done in the mic jack. I ended up resoldering the connections. 5va -- ??? Part of Mic PWR? (Typically MicPWR is 5va) Line out R (Blue or Purple -- can't remember which is R/L) Bline out R -- not needed Line out L (Blue or Purple -- just try them and if reversed, obviously switch) Bline out L -- not needed My advice would be to try as above, and leave MICPWR unhooked. -Brian
  15. daveA51, Thanks for sharing your experience. I don't mean this as a flame, but dude, punctuation will go a long way in making your points a bit more clear. You sure you've got this thing installed correctly?