capten

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Everything posted by capten

  1. Project "SL5t"

    Project „SL5T“ "SL" as you already know from Mercedes Benz, is to make the first impression what this project stands for. Elegance, luxury and simple forms. The MasterCase Maker 5T is used. The interior is as discreetly as possible cleared of all unnecessary elements. The walls are clad with Plexiglas and multi-layered in the design of the mainboard. An elaborate water cooling system is installed which, however, is kept as minimal as possible. A cover is made for the cable area, which provides a window for the PSU and on which the ASROCK logo is placed in case size. The logo is framed with the design of the X99 Gaming I7 as well as I would like the elements of the mainboard to continue the whole case. (The red racing arrows between the lower two PCIe slots) All cables are sleevedin the hardware colors. From the outside the contours of the Maker 5T are emphasized by Plexiglas, where also sponsor logos will be found. So much for the formal part. The Maker5t will be my next Rig, since I have not yet a good portable Gaming PC. So I have now also evasive possibilities when my table times problems and above all I can finally also times my table new hardware miss. Actually, I wanted in this project not so much effort to operate but again will grow the mod again tremendous. Since I now the first time on a separate X99 board change, I dedicate this mod to the ASROCK X99 Gaming I7 And let the whole project be inspired by the mainboard. Hardware CPU: Intel Core I7 6850K Mainboard: Asrock Fatal1ty X99 Professional Gaming I7 Ram: Avexir Blitz 4x4Gb 2800Mhz SSD: Avexir S100 240Gb GPU: Nvidea Geforce GTX970 PSU:MasterWatt Maker 1200 Case:MasterCase Maker5t Watercooling Bitspower NGTX970MGV2 Acrylic (Clear) BP-WBVGNGTX970MGV2NPAC Bitspower Leviathan Xtreme 240 4xG1/4" Radiator BP-NLX240-F4PB Bitspower Leviathan Slim 280 4xG1/4" Radiator BP-NLS280-F4PB Bitspower DDC Plus Pump BP-DDCPLS Bitspower DDC TOP Water Tank Integrated Kit 300 (POM Version With Z-CAP II) BP-DDCTOPWTIK300PC3-BKCL Z-Tube 250( ICE Red) BP-WTZACT250-IRD Bitspower DDC Pump Cooler Bracket (Red) BP-DDCPCBT-RD Bitspower Pump Cooler For DDC/MCP355 (Red) BP-DDCPC-RD Bitspower CPU Block Summit EF (Intel) (Acrylic Top Version) BP-WBCPUIAC-CUMBKWH Bitspower CPU Block Plate For Intel CPU (Deep Red) BP-CPUIPT-DRD Bitspower G1/4" Deluxe White Enhance Multi-Link For OD 12MM BP-DWEML Bitspower G1/4" Deep Blood Red Enhance Multi-Link For OD 12MM BP-DBREML Bitspower Deep Blood Red Enhance Rotary G1/4" 90-Degree Multi-Link Adapter BP-DBRE90RML Bitspower Deep Blood Red Enhance 90-Degree Dual Multi-Link Adapter BP-DBRE90DML Bitspower Deluxe White Enhance Rotary G1/4" 90-Degree Multi-Link Adapter BP-DWE90RML Bitspower Deluxe White Enhance 90-Degree Dual Multi-Link Adapter BP-DWE90DML G1/4" Deluxe White Rotary 90-Degree IG1/4" Extender BP-DW90R G1/4" Deluxe White Mini Dual G1/4" Extender BP-DWWP-C42 G1/4" Deluxe White Rotary G1/4" Extender BP-DWRG G1/4" Deluxe White Muti-Transfer Adapter BP-DWWP-C03 G1/4" Deluxe White IG1/4" Extender-15MM BP-DWWP-C60 Deluxe White Mini Valve With Black Handle BP-MVV-DWBK Deluxe White Q Plus-Block BP-DWFMB G1/4" Deluxe White Stop Fitting BP-DWWP-C06 Bitspower None Chamfer Brass Hard Tubing OD12MM Deep Red - Length 300 MM BP-NCBHT12DRD-L300 G1/4" Deluxe White Aqua-Pipe I BP-DWWP-C17 G1/4" Deep Blood Red CaseTop Water-Fill SET BP-DBRWP-C04 X-Station Mini Power-Extension I Female Version BP-MINIXSP1F-RD Bitspower Logo Aluminum Thumb Screw For 632 (Deep Red BP-LATSC632-DRD Bitspower Logo Aluminum Thumb Screw For 632 (White) BP-LATSC632-WH Bitspower Metal Tubing Cutter BP-CMMTC Bitspower Flow Indicator BP-FI-CLBKWH Red Blade For Bitspower Flow Indicator BP-BFI-RD Control: Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT equipment Fan:2 x NB eLoop B12-1 ,3 x NB eLoop B14-1 Headphone:MasterPulse Keyboard:MasterKeys Pro M Sketches In order to bring the project as smoothly as possible, I took this time a bit more time on the computer and already times sketches for the different covers created. The elements are glued together in several different colors. Partially varnished, partially foil and partly (only) polished. For use comes Plexiglas in various colors and thicknesses, aluminum foils and varnishes. This is only the rough basic idea, should expect again but not look good I let myself think of something else: thumbup: This cover comes on the right side in the case inside where the drive bays sit. To the right the original pattern and to the left the lighting effect. Here the front, whether the red arrows will really work well, we will see Here the front of the PSU cover, the design on the left will frame the window to the PSU And here the elements for the Windows, not completely in red but as template it is enough Hardware pic´s The majority of all components are already there, but see for yourself: A big thanks goes to all who support me with this project: ASROCK COOLERMASTER BitsPower Blacknoise Avexir
  2. Project "SL5t"

    All right, and here the first final outdoor pictures. indoor pics with lightning comming soon
  3. Project "SL5t"

    Now the next update. Before the Cebit did not have much time and now I wait for the mod to come back again:D So ..... what had to be done: For the correct installation of the front radiator a few holes had to be changed The HDD cover got to fix still angle The Aquaero has now finally its black aperture The Flexlights for the interior and the PSu Window were soldered and sleeved In the midtray was still a hole for a few MB cables and the GPU lighting set The Sata cables I have shortened to a single connection. This is also quite easy. From the last Sata connection simply the cap carefully lever off and then the cable over the required plug as scarce as possible cut off. Now put the cap back on exactly this plug and done At the MB tray was as always exactly there a strut where the ATX cable should run, so also had to be helped here again. Since I no longer need the grommets of the midtray I could make a new execution for this big hole At the top there was still a vacancy which looked a bit dull, so I cut a little bit of aluminum, painted it and then covered with the red foil The extensions are now all ready Since one under the IO-Shield the radiator saw had to be made for this still a small aperture First the pattern taken Then cut out the appropriate piece from the front grille On this grid are two stripes which I originally wanted to leave in red. First sawn a 3mm strip and then ground in shape In red but it did not really fit so I painted black with two layers of clear lacquer The whole I then somewhat offset to the front fixed and with silicone glued Shortly before I have still two red LEDs set so that the slots in the front light All cables tidy hidden under the insulation The GPU got red LEDs The headset I have now also an individual touch given Since the mussels are slightly arched, the Plexiglas had to be slightly bent The PSU Window left me no rest. I then found a good tutorial for cementing plexiglass. Important is polyester adhesive tape. So again a small window cut, adjusted, polished edges. Apply the polyester adhesive tape completely to the surface to be glued, then place the window on it and gently cut it with the scalpel once. So I now have a perfectly mashed surface. Remove the center tape now, of course. Then apply abundant to full acryfix and press the window gently free of bubbles. This time I have accelerated the drying process additionally with UV light, just in bad weather, the sunlight simply does not matter. I think it was also often to bubble formation so that the glue usually after 24h was not 100% hard. With the UV light I could break off the glue easily after 3 hours with a chisel. Stupid, I have the window on the wrong side glued XDXD but you can recognize the difference to the first attempt. No more bubbles and full glue on it So all good things are 3. Unfortunately, 4-5 photos from the window have not changed anything but I will finish it in the final pics in detail. So, because I did not like the burgundy foil on the PSU cover with the red Plexi behind it, I painted it all black. Also the honeycomb covers of the Bitspower housing feedthroughs And then with the case colored red foil. The radiators were also painted in white and the slats with a red metallic lacquer In order to make the back a bit more photogenic, I have also continued here the red arrows Also these holes in the case did not please me then everything foiled red again Now again a dangerous matter. The Windows had to be adjusted something so I can continue to use it. Since some covers were closing in the way, I had to separate something from the steel of the Windows. Since glass can crack quickly with the sudden contact with heat I am very cautiously proceeded and have repeatedly inserted breaks at the cutting. But first I have the whole window with foil protected and then still an old rag for the protection against spark hung before it. So that was it! The memory and SSD has now finally arrived. So once I have the case again I can finally make the final photos :phat:
  4. Maker EVO Deluxe

    Welcome to my next Project: „Maker EVO Deluxe" After a long time of thinking, I've decided to do a more complex Casemod. Lets see what I'm doing with it. To be called into action is coming the brand new Mastercase Maker 5. Inspired was this Mod from the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution. The interior was completely cleaned and covered with pale Leather. For the Cables/PSU Area a Cover was created in the Design of the Case. It should be installed a lavish Watercooling with Brasstubes and Chrome Fittings which should seems like a Header. The AGB will fitted justified in the front of the Case, so that it will be one unit on that case and be used as brake fluid reservoir. At the Case you will find some air scoops, which are normally founded on engine covers or fenders., which will be made from me out of Aluminum Plates. At the Leather I made different punch works. Here and there will be a Wing installed together with Headlights and one DTM Axle Back Exhaust. The Theme is called Sportcar and I will try to make as much Details as possible. A huge thank to all who supported this Project, without your Help the Execution of this Project wouldn't be possible. little preview :rock: Hardware: Case: MasterCase Maker 5 Graphiccards: 2 x Gigabyte GeForce® GTX 1080 Xtreme Gaming Water cooling Mainboard: ASRock Fatal1ty X99X Killer/3.1 CPU: Intel Core I7 5820K Ram: 8 x 8GB G.SKILL RIPJAWS V DDR4 2666MHz SSD: HyperX 3K Limited Edition White 240Gb Netzteil : Gigabyte XP1200M Watercooling: Pump:Alphacool VPP655 - G1/4 IG inkl. Eisdecke D5 - Plexi V.3 CPU : Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light - Brass Black Chrome Ram : Alphacool D-RAM Modul (für Alphacool D-RAM Cooler) -... Alphacool D-RAM Cooler X4 Universal - Acetal Black Nickel GPU : 2 x Gigabyte GeForce® GTX 1080 Xtreme Gaming Water cooling AGB : Alphacool Eisbecher 250mm Acetal Ausgleichsbehälter Radiator: Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm Radiator Brasstubes : Alphacool HardTube 13/10mm 90° Messing Chrome 10/50cm Hardtubes : Alphacool Eisrohr 13/10mm Plexi (PMMA) HardTube Satin... Alphacool HardTube 13/10mm Plexi (PMMA) Klar 80cm - 4er Set Fittings : Alphacool Eiszapfen 13mm HardTube Anschraubtülle G1/4 für chrome and black Fans: Enermax T.B.Silence 14cm Enermax T.B.Vegas 12cm weiß Accessories: Aluminum Acrylics Wood and MDF white Leather Blank Leather Punch iron Swivel knife Color, Coating Spray Pipe Bender
  5. Maker EVO Deluxe

    HIHO! Up to the last update! all Alphacool logos were exchanged Chrome logos and the CPU holder got something orange accents. for I was determined a half a day busy with weeding the stickers, but they were not the only stickers as you can see the adapter fittings from behind, this had to be painted black then I've yet created a SLI Bridge and this cut from 2mm acrylic glass somewhat obliquely cut and glued together this has been repeatedly painted before and painted in the end black and covered with foil (the design of the graphics card) Unfortunately, I have a separate image of this, you can see it but the final images. On that PSU Cover I back side glued two strips to slide the cover exactly on the Mid-tray can. before Foiling the front I had to eliminate some damage then the cut edges of the windows were yet polished, unfortunately this is the best picture what I could get Procedure: first scrape the edges with a scraper smooth, then sanding of 300 to 800 wet sandpaper, then polish with two polishing pastes and a felt pad and the very end with car polish and a cotton disk to mirror polish Now I have the front covered with Carbonfoil Now I have the fenders on it glued, with double-thick adhesive tape, looks like a thermal pad, it has the appearance of a sealing rubber. The headlights and the radiator grille will now also be glued, the Fronspoiler was screwed the Xtreme Gaming stickers Gigabyte I can yet plotting to three times the size and for a small aluminum plate designed as a backing to give it some depth profile. This I then primed, painted, transferred the sticker and all onto the PSU cover glued For lighting I have two LED strips soldered with dimmable remote control handle. As under car illumination a black light LED comes strip used, these had a loose connection so I renewed the cable. for the black light I still have cut an aluminum strip on the I Stripe glue. The strip was then glued centrally under the Case one day I was busy with the cabling also had at every corner yet minimal corrections are made PSU cover did not fit completely, because of the Radi AIO was in the way, so I've cut out the cover below a small recess Brass pipes were all again adapted and something shortened because but a few things were not quite satisfactory. -an appropriate coolant I have mixed in distilled water and Mayhams Dey Yellow and Red. Now the worst after I had filled the Sys yesterday again with the correct Coolant and all just sample ran, there was an after 5min ZISCH and reservoir was empty. One of the brass tubes slipped from the CPU cooler and the pump has pumped their entire contents to the CPU / motherboard. super, something one day before completion. Well the Sys was out, it was only the pump, but I am a bit nervous to start the system. Yesterday I naturally everything dried again, mixed new Coolant, refilled again, and the whole then as to run through the night. So the Final Pics! Currently there is absolute chaos here have no proper place more. The quality of the images is modest beautiful, I will do the same next week new, as little taste, I hope this rich images Hi ! As promised , the final pics.
  6. Project "SL5t"

    It's Monday, time for next update;) Now I've upgraded the backplate visually. For this I have two red 3mm plexiglas plates cut and glued together Then I cut these a few days later in shape and from 3mm to 6mm slanted obliquely, it unfortunately got badly photographed Then everything completely matted and glued to the GPU. I've also added some of the motherboard's design. Then it went with the foiling of the parts of the top Because then I noticed that the foil to little is. Well sometimes you have to see it all before you. I then began to edit the parts again Besides, I have cut a new logo for the front and painted this silver Now I finally finished all the parts and glued to the case with epoxy glue Then it was time to lay pipes Also here a few holes had to be set matching the honeycomb design I have two spacers built so that the case does not protrude throughs so far inward And here the finished loop As you can see in the last picture, all PCI Thumscrews were exchanged for white, and others were used at PSU Somehow I thought the PSU cover was too unstable, the gap around the Aquaero have often changed. I thought 2mm Alu would be enough but so I now have two aluminum angles cut, primed, painted and glued to the PSU Window Yesterday I started already with the sleeving of the cables. Actually already last week but with the Masterwatt is a sleeving 1: 1 not possible so I had to reject the plan and create now only Extension. The pump I have already finished So it is slowly coming to an end, but it still remains exciting as the cables all can be optimally laid and above all as I bring everything to the Aquaero:vain:
  7. Maker EVO Deluxe

    The next update! Sorry for some images, with Energy Drink in the blood, it is difficult to keep the camera calmly XD. As recently already announced I had my first time a form for the 13er brass tubes build. So get bought in the hardware store and a 15er copper pipe and bent this. On the second try that also looked very presentable. This bent pipe and a piece I've just halved with the Flex and sanded smooth. Now I have a perfect shape for the 13er tubes For the motherboard tray I have a 3mm aluminum plate cut and screwed into the Case then sawed wood on the later, the leather is fixed Now the holes for the pipes and cable set. the pipe penetration needed 17er holes, so I first with a cone drill holes drilled 16er and finally even with a size 17 drill afterwards after the 1/4 inch thread cutter was there I was able to secure the DTM exhaust. Just stupid that the angle was too thin so I decided from 3mm aluminum sheet suitable nuts cut and there purely cut the thread. Not pretty but rarely does what it should and can not be seen anyway. matching brass tubes in DTM style were then cut to size This is what I can actually save me but I speak the topic anyway. After a little practice with the brass tubes and tube bender I have created the loop in the interior. and Cutt! I knew it! Every time I say to myself, do not start before the hardware is there and I have made the mistake again. My plan was to pack the graphics card in the lower 2 PCIe slots to have up enough space to tinker from the brass tubes a exhaust manifold. Yes if you plan in advance is all in vain. Coolers of graphics cards are too thick, you can not use the lower PCIe slot, even if the Mid tray comes out only stay 5mm up to PSU. Then there would be no more room for the wooden board with the leather and the PCI outputs on Case would also be extended by one. The loop at any rate nothing that cpus come up into it, half of the tubes I could accommodate but first I needed new. Well that later. Now I have set the position for the AIO radiators of GPUs. One comes before the power supply and the second comes from the back of the case. only times sawed So for the first hole in the ground then put the hose guide from the AIO in Midtray Then, an angle was cut carrying the pump and the second radiator of the AIO around the pump to be positioned as flexible as possible I have set oblong holes. For milling these holes I need to buy a cross table to me. Here I drilled only at the beginning and end of two holes and cut out the connection. then cut two angles and a flat bars for the radiator then I fastened spacers for the rear side panel. (P5 Style) well as already mentioned I have to make different loop so I displaced all the holes in the pipe carry out, just like the first time with cone drill drilled to 16mm and a 17mm drill afterwards. the old holes I closed with aluminum kit and 2K Filler again, back simply tape it so that it does not fall through, which you can then easily be removed or sanded again. after sanding nor a twice fine fill in and ready Now I have bent the window for the back to match the shape of the Cases around the compressions of the outer corners in bend can not be seen. If the Window cut to size after the bend. Delicate matter I know. Beautifully clamped the whole and every 5cm goes be reclamped thus merely nothing wrong. The side which closes the front is then beveled so that it nicely with the Case fits perfect sawn off only the top and bottom cut out another hole for the fan and this then freed of unnecessary ballast fits also perfecly Now I have the brass tubes to re-cut and bent. First of securing the pipe bender neat, which is even something of unwieldy and chromed tubes slip easily then all aluminum parts were primed with filler and with aluminum primer all cutting edges on Case I have with color (Paintbrush) overlined to the rust prevention even if this is not the best method. Now I have the wood panels covered with leather The holes should in fact be stung with a Hollow Punch, the ground was too soft so I had to cut it with a knife. Not very clean but is concealed by the fittings. Now I have all the parts ready lacquered. so now the next challenge: a PSU cover. So that you still can still use the Window and open. So, at first bent a plexiglass Below only slightly slanted so as I said, the window can still be put in Case then completely cut to size and put yet holes for the tubes Then I measured everything, position of the power supply etc. and the design transferred. here until the surface is the leather-covered this surface then brushed with 40 grit sandpaper so that the contact adhesive holds Now I glued the leather on it. then I have three or four hours spent with the transfer of the film. You believe it or not, but for the whole PSU Cover I was good for 8 hours. That was not planned: P Before leather I had already made a Fillup, everything was tight. Get tomorrow everything reinstall and start with the cabling. Little things are still, Window outer edges polished, correct a few pipes at the loop, what you always see only the photos and operate at all corners yet tweaking. a Sli bridge I wanted to build but a little time still remains for me.
  8. Project "SL5t"

    Here is the next update! I could last night unfortunately only 3h sleep then work 9h and 20.00 we have to take a night shift so I shall be brief There is not much to say, the pictures speak for themselves. Since the red film is a little translucent, I decided to double everything with film, so first black and then red. Here are the small items around the PSU Window. Then I the last week only polished The black plexiglass was only frosted with 600 wet abrasive paper. Is hardly recognizable in the photos. Then it went to filming, first everything with black foil and then with red foil Comes cool The small elements of the PSU window were made of burgundy foil which fits perfectly to the mainboard, the red foil is matching the case Then everything was glued with transparent silicone to the Windows And then lettering with white foil Here the PSU window, glued with silicone, the small varnished strip I have previously covered with the burgundy foil At the front there were some problems, as the front is slightly arched, the plexiglass was under tension and did not hold. So everything had to clean again and paint again. The plexiglass I have still slightly warmed and bent before the second attempt before I have attached it with epoxy glue. With the other elements I am exactly the same. Yeah !! I like it Unfortunately, I had occasionally epoxy glue on the hands and the many cleaning of the surfaces, the paint was so strongly attacked that I had to paint everything again. I really wanted to avoid it, but I could not let that happen. Soo I like it better Short and sweet This week comes the top and hope also the cable sleeving or tubing. 8o
  9. Project "SL5t"

    So it goes, after I had to grind all parts again and rework Everything was painted Afterwards, all parts were fixed to the base plate and glued with Acrifix 1S 0116. As expected, of course, I slipped a few times with the syringe, damn grrr The attempt to paint it was not particularly satisfying. I will foliate the places later Despite all this, I am very satisfied with the color concept. I like it:thumbsup: After a long time, I think a good design for the front and the top. It is a mixture of 2mm and 3mm Plexiglas combined in high gloss and matt. So now I began to transfer all the patterns to the Plexiglas and cut them out The front and the top Besides, I disconnect a graphics card from Light Glass, it hurt: heul and this converted to Bitspower. For that, the PCI bracket had to be folded again and painted black For the HDD Cover I now still cut a second plate in white and for the strip of the front plexiglass 2x6mm All parts for the top and the front are now bevelled (is there a term for this in English?) Now the Coolermaster logo away with 2x polyester 2 / K spatula And then I glued the 6mm strips on the front, fixed with seconds glue and the outer edges all closed with Acrifix, really complicated because the front is slightly bent. after the glue was dry, I then again revised the ends of the strips until all straightened with hand and power file, minor damage were 2 / K spatula Then everything again primed and varnished Now the edges of the white plate are polished and So the result. Here everything is already positioned for the water cooling and measured whether everything fits so far. Therefore only the pipes have to be cut. so then, see you soon!
  10. Maker EVO Deluxe

    Hello! As announced I made a small engine bonnet. For that I have transferred the fan opening from the lid on aluminum then I have again created me two forms to reshape the aluminum now deformed and cut out the aluminum looking for something I can build a engine bonnet breech, I found it here (right the original) The pins I cut to length and each provided with a hole then halved a key chain and so it should look like after it was painted, I have the engine bonnet covered with carbon foil and glued the bonnet breech it The chipset cooler from the motherboard had to change their color Then I started already times to relate the radiators with leather attempts me times on a small piece of wood, with 2 cm foam material upholster on the headlights I also equipped already with Led's for the area in front of the IO panel I had to create a cover because you could see from there quite well behind the radiator or on the reservoir to let red disappear all the motherboard I have folded a small aluminum sheet and painted to cover all Sataports Cpu Holder was also repainted The cable duct in the MB tray had to be moved, I got him simply cut out and placed to the left behind the Radi bracket The Ram modules I have also mounted casual. but ran is not according to plan. The GSkill have only one side of memory so she slipped always out of the bottom. I have also used it nor the thermal pad of the original cooler. Now when I wanted to mount the cooler on the modules, a problem again. The screws are all 2mm too long. So I got all screws 2mm shorter sanded, unfortunately, had no right here so much for that than next I have the exhaust manifold from the brass tubes tinker.
  11. Project "SL5t"

    Hi Guys! Go on. After transferring the designs to the Plexiglas, I also cut these out then tailored for the small strip on the far left a few times 2mm strips Actually the red plexiglass should be polished but these small 2 x 20mm strips all the same to grind brought me to white heat. So I glued the small stripes with epoxy glue to the aluminum and just sanded them after curing. The Red Plexiglas later foiled everything anyway. I just wanted the UV effect of the polished edges. But in this one place I will be able to cope with it. These strips are then painted with. Two aluminum brackets have now been cut for the holder of the Aquaero In this form, the entire cover did not fit into the PSU bay anymore. I thought I had to shorten the whole aperture still a bit but the angle adjust has also helped. Since I have failed with the actual midtray miserably as far as the soldering, but it left me no rest, I still had to practice and test something. Screws I wanted here actually very reluctant. Somehow it worked then, I believe at least. It looked quite ok for a few remnants So I now ventured to the correct angle. Everything with as little contact with other surfaces so that the heat can not be dissipated as quickly and as a base a granite slab. Last but not least, the veneer of the workbench flown around my ears, they gave a loud bang XD! So everything neatly sanded and degreased and then everything for soldering eigespannt. I am really satisfied with the result. In the sample I did not have such good capillary action. The window for the PSU I now cut from 2mm Plexiglas and polished all edges. I have now completely glued on a 1cm larger plate Is a little bubble but I like the effect. Thanks to the brass pipes of the water cooling you will not see any water in the system anyway. The holes for the PSU aperture were still set at an angle behind I cut thread The patterns for the front I have all transferred to 2mm Plexiglas and sawn. Who knows? Here I have already made the first changes to the original file? I have here, incidentally, two 2mm slices glued together and both with a dishwashing cut;) The two elements above the arrows I have cut from 2mm aluminum because I want to bend here a small rod I have now marked these rods and cut them with the fine-boring grinder, which, by the way, did not say goodbye after two years. Man again buy new machine grrr These I then clamped between two steel strips and worked something with the hammer until I was satisfied Jooooo, So beautiful I could not even imagine it Oh so on Sunday I wanted to spare my neighbors times a bit so I began to polish some parts of the red plexiglass All these here I cut off all cutting edges with a Cutta blade, then polished from 320 (400, 600,) to 800 paper wet and finally polished with two polishing pastes on high gloss. Pagan work, man man and that was not even half In order to see slowly times to go forward I began yesterday with the paint. Will finally also see whether it all acts as I imagine it before it goes with the other surfaces. Aluminum got a special 1 / K aluminum primer and the Plexiglas I primed with plastic adhesion mediator. Then continue working with spraying spatula. My workshop is definitely too small So then, let's see how far I come next week.
  12. Maker EVO Deluxe

    Hello all ! Here I want to introduce all components used again. I had the last week but frequently walking day Here the ASRock Fatal1ty X99X Killer/3.1. I think the contrast of red green really well. A motherboard in free wilderness not seen so often, still untamed :vain: G.SKILL RIPJAWS V DDR4 2666MHz the Gigabyte GeForce® GTX 1080 Xtreme Gaming Waterforce the Gigabyte 1200W Power Supply XP 1200M here the Enermax T.B.Silence in 14cm and that´s the T.B.Vergas White in 12cm with white LED´s and here many components from the new Alphacool Eis-Serie and here again the Mastercase Maker 5 with tempered glass window and mama and papa swan Despite still missing parts I could not let it remain and have begun already times. So let's get started! First, as always, the case was made naked. Now it went straight to the air intake slots of a fender. Dry runs I had behind me so right now. I transferred to aluminum the dimensions of the front and mark the position of the louvers Now I have a positive and negative form for it to create the aluminum during peening / flanging (as called the molding of aluminum at all ?, I do not know it) does not tear unintentionally. But I've just the 4 different slots milled in MDF and fits to the counterpart Now cut the slots in the wood then all processed with the hammer and the shapes and cut out in the end only from the large aluminum plate it goes on with a front spoiler, only cut the spoiler lip from acrylics Try and think of something I had an image in the head thereto and have more acrylics radicals tailored and trimmed ground at the same time the rear spoiler is made. Here I decided for MDF. First of coarse cut design and now missed the whole a Aerodynamic shape. This reminded me when working on more planes than cars The bottom 3cm where the spoiler on the case is I have glued a second MDF board, have not photographed but in the later images of the painting you can see the spoiler down around gets thicker after I was now on all operations of the front spoiler in the clear I have glued the various acrylic parts with each other then I bent from aluminum small wing spoiler then everything was primed to start the filling, just the front spoiler had to be done much After the water cooling has arrived, it went to the cutout for the reservoir despite a PVC cutting disc that work is always pure torture but just as I had imagined only new holders for the reservoir is made. Preferably 3mm aluminum angle, still remainder of my desk;) casually, because of all the dry processes the spoilers were always times filled and primed The opening behind the louvers had to be cut Now the radiator grille the rear spoiler was now ready for painting, so I have all the holes for the mounting set and the actual wing cut to size and glued. Here again 3mm acrylic glass after gluing with epoxy adhesive the connections equal primed and filled after the radiator grille was now cut out I find the optimum position for the small wing spoilers and those glued to the alu sheets with the air slots is slowly taking shape A DTM exhaust is also planned so a aluminum bracket was cut and then drilled holes for the exhaust pipes The exhaust is then the way from a few remnants of brass pipes and fittings with 45 ° angle. A 1 / 4Zoll thread cutter I have not yet, I ordered yesterday and should still arrive this week here I had everything tested, by lacquered whether I like the result. One often sees irregularities only when it's done, so better now before there is no time. the holders of the reservoir were also painted, are here mounted and fits beautifully What next? Headlights: P cut 1 cm acrylic glass strip and only once sanded quite a while and burnt fingers Now I have this cut and polished in the headlight shape :doofy: had himself photographed really bad I've cut and folded the front grille of the fan guards from Case, this will sit flush with the front spoiler lip as of 8o next update comming soon!
  13. Project "SL5t"

    Hi! After the case was made naked, I had to realize that my radiator constellation was not as fit as I wanted. After a long time, I had to saw. The 280er does not fit above and the 240er comes extremely far down then the piping then the mainboard would cover, so the 280er upwards. The yellow taped points I will cut first. The second marking is for the 8Pin Atx cable which is exactly centered with the Gaming I7. Sloping cable routing is not my thing, so I will enlarge the cable lead. In order to work there clean, I had to remove only the rear handle from the case. And then everything clean, in the taped condition, cut open With the radiator bracket I had only the rear wall cut off The ATX cable bushing I cut up well on the double size and of course, once slipped off and the paint damaged. Since I have already tried massively in different colors it meets this here with best but wanted to use and I will not continue it. Then I riveted the handle from the case immediately and the rivets painted black (right), all interfaces of course also .. Then I once cut all possible materials, cut patterns created, plotted and transferred to the material. 0,75 Alu for the Midtray 2mm Plexi for the HDD Cover Designs 3mm plexiglass red fluorescent as base plate for HDD cover and The X99 Arock arrows for the Windows. Now it was also starting with the sawing, first the 2mm Plexiglas Then the aluminum sheet And the Decals for the Windows After the sawing of the 2mm strips I have now all these on neat gaps, straightened and sanded. The still black stripes come then in 3mm Plexi Which I have sawn out next Now I fixed all strips with double-sided tape and the dimensions for the base plate marked Then I have the 2mm Plexiglas again completely ground, cleaned and with double-sided tape on a sheet glued so that it does not fly away from the paint. The base plate is now also tailored The edges I have all slanted to the half to 45 degrees. The outer edges with the top cutter and the inner edges by hand The sheet metal for the Midtray was now completely cut and then folded.(bent) Now I have cut 2mm aluminum for the PSU cover and cut a few small angles as a bracket and soldered together (also here: does not ask how, absolute disaster but it holds) Now I have transferred the designs to the PSU cover The Aquaero must be a bit deeper, so I have now torn all the surfaces to be sawed Everything still nice straight cut And the section for the PSU still slightly bevelled So that would be status quo. Next, I'm trying to create an inlay for the PSU window, hope it works out the way I've seen it with some others. Is indeed something angular. And for the front of the case I'm still looking for inspiration. I just can not think of what I do best under the arrows, where the Cooler Master logo sits. Something has to be there because otherwise it looks boring. So many thanks for reading, until the next update!;-)
  14. Maker EVO Deluxe

    Thank you
  15. "Light Glass"

    "Light Glass" Welcome to my next project " Light Glass " . As the name suggests, I will in this project an ATX Acrylic Case construct in which a lot of acrylic glass and some aluminum is used. Here is a little taste of what I had before . Is perhaps not very impressive but better than on a piece of paper and when you see what I have done from my last project , I am hopeful . These are the very first 3D models I've ever made ​​. The Concept: My concept is as much transparency in connection with frosted acrylic glass front . Some contrasts are decorated in white,silver and minimal black . There are transparent acrylic tubes 16/12 are fitted with white coolant . The transparent housing should be kept as small as possible and just cover the hardware . In the base should still find a 360mm radiator square next to the power supply and a DVD / Blueray drive. The Hardware: Mainboard: MSI Z170 Titanium Edition CPU: Intel Core I7 6700K Ram: Avexir Raiden 4 x 4 Gb 2400Mhz Grafikkarte: 2 x MSI GTX 970 4GD5T OC SSD: Avexir S100 Series Power Supply: Cooler Master V 750 The Water Cooling: Pump: CPU block: EK-FB MSI Z170A XPOWER TE Monoblock - Nickel GPU block: EK-FC970 GTX TFX - Nickel Terminal: EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel - Plexi Reservoirs: EK-RES X3 250 - White Radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 360 acrylic tubes: EK-HD PETG Tube 12/16mm acrylic tubes fittings: EK-HDC Fitting 16mm G1/4 - White fans: 3 x Silencio FP 120 PWM Winkel: CoolForce 90° drehbarer Anschluss Adapter G1/4 equipment: Keyboard: Cooler Master Quick Fire XTi Mouse: Cooler Master Reaper Mousepad: Cooler Master Swift-RX L Headset: Cooler Master Sirus 5.1 Fan: Thermaltake Riing White Stepper Motor 28BYJ-48 Driver ULN2003 Ultrasonic sensor HC SR04 90db buzzer keypad Arduino Nano infrared receiver capacitor 1000 microfarad Wiederstaand 470 Ohm div. Pins Connectors Digital RGB LED Strip WS2812B remote RGBW LEDs So much for my basic idea . The planning and preparation has been underway for several weeks , the details will follow shortly ! I hope you like the idea and you supported me wherever they can. Sponsored by ​
  16. "Light Glass"

    "Light Glass" by night with different lighting effects Alarm mode(red LED) while the door opens (orange LED) and a few rainbow effects Okay, it was nice! I'll tinker just a video for the whole hope to get that in 2 weeks out. So see you soon! :thumbsup:
  17. "Light Glass"

    So now we go! I made a rough selection of all images but because I have nothing to hide and so a lot of work in this project lies, gets her now photos from all possible perspectives accurately as various lighting. I hope I did not forget any details. "Light Glass" deactivated by day "Light Glass" is switched by night in blue in white
  18. "Light Glass"

    on Friday I thought that Silencio see behind two 3mm Plexiglas and 2mm aluminum frame from something boring, so I have the frame summarily cut off so that further extend the rotor blades from the Case so without damage was also not, so I concerned shall points again painted. the small curved pieces for the back I attached with a spacer with the screws Case No I would not flush, the distance is chosen deliberately because it would have the gap either way perceived and had a bond the screws obscured last week, I have created the missing decals and was able to pick up on the weekend me. I had weeded again everything yourself. This comes on the rear window completely down take the Avexir lettering, 1.6 mm character height I had normal Stickers and some other things that can be seen later on the Finalpics;-) the lighting of the hardware itself was somehow not quite as I expected, so I decided to TE-block from the top with a small strip to illuminate thus also equal to the GPU backplates are illuminated with. So even a small angle cut, primed and painted the current then immediately swiped from the top S-Light, the cable is thus exactly behind the ATX connectors and is not visible Now It's something offtopic further. For photo shoot I wanted something special but a suitable museum I did not to me and a jewelry shop / jeweler as a painter I need to ask not even. So I got short hand out my bedroom wall redesigned. wallpaper removed completely plastering, primed and painted two times white then centrally glued a snakeskin wallpaper fits to or vice versa, I have this weekend even built me a stand for the case and the keyboard, mouse. The stand for the Case is a transport box which I can buckle with foil as on a Euro pallet, the case then. First the hardware store all materials Bought, the wallpaper I had ordered last week on the Internet from old remnants I cut a few strips for the bottom then glued together and to the ground Angle cut and primed the whole box glued to each other and once primed angel paint in silver The stand for the keyboard exactly tailored and everything glued to each other mounted on the box still Tension Latches and then also primed and painted corresponding areas of the object also painted and then glued to finish off the wallpaper and then the angle on the edge Okay "thats it". System I have filled yesterday and leaktest made everything alright. Tomorrow I will make the final pics and will then latest day after tomorrow post! :-)
  19. "Light Glass"

    Hi everyone! My last update, the project is ready but the Finalpics I'll do tomorrow. Here now only times all work I've done the last few weeks. Sorry that took me so long posted anything but I was really afraid not to be ready in time. So I try to be brief, there are still quite a lot of photos and more than half I have already deleted. : D If any ambiguities are just ask okay? Under the SSD Tron I have placed a small RGB Strip, connected to the LEDs in the base. then came from my cousin the second charge cable Combs. Again, the same program as the last time, all the cut / break, deburring, sanding and clean. then it went to the sleeving on. Times as info that cable velvet Sleeve'm not getting through Combs through why I prefer all sleevs first and then push the cable through. This is very good because the PLX sleevs are quite rigid. First, the 8 and 4 pin ATX cable and then the 24 pin cable, do not forget the small cover which I built for carrying now came the worst, all the cables together. For this I have number to each cable and after many corrections and try with hot glue so I fixed the second base plate at all it get Unfortunately, nothing helped, I had to cut the lower base plate, due to a half centimeter good for the entire bottom plate I have another 4 holes set as the 2mm aluminum but was not as robust as expected Then I put all power and reset cable and last but not least the PCIe cable, unfortunately not quite the way I wanted but I think that can be so by go XD The entire cable management cost me a total of 3 weeks now. Daily 6h after work and on weekends and holidays also determined 12 hours a day. And I thought I do it on a weekend finished XD. Now it was time to polish all edges: just like the dice I have all the edges with a sword Cutta peeled and then ground from 320 to 800 grit sandpaper. After that two polishing pastes and finally with pure polish. I had tried to talk to a small piece to see how far fits the design and have this now transferred to the sliding door and rear wall for this to bend then. Now cut and then bent ready the small pieces for back ready polished and then glued together With the sidewalls exactly the same, all edges polished the Avexir neckline satin finish. I hope you can imagine how long it takes all this take? Okay, as expected, there was the cable laid course but a damage to the paint, mainly the outer edge. So I had a good piece again completely wrap in foil to be painted around the defects in. With a paintbrush unfortunately dissolving the color and pushes only the paint down again and a white pen does not have the same color as my paint. Who's always there? Then came the worst part: remove the foil! Now I had to with the utmost care all behind moving sanding dust and the polishing paste to remove without scratching the Plexiglas. The glossy black is there really sensitive. so now that all plates were cleaned, I also stick to one another Next we went to the upper side parts I had last year already two logos cut from 3mm Plexiglas and polished. This I have now glued to the side wall only times exactly aligned the logos and then taken up with tape so that they can no longer from slipping Then measured the positions on the front and set with tape guide lines then made the adhesive on the logos and adhered to the front and now again: how I start already said, I have the dice all have slightly rearranged so they do not look so boring cubes. How do you like that ? :crazy: have been doing mostly oriented at me 15 ° well as the sleeves are so rigid I ever had to come up with the 24Pin ATX cable behind the tray little problems around the corner, so I did it briefly bent me a small retainer. But this I wanted to make so and so to put a decal of the sponsor there. It fulfills the same a double sense;-) This I then glued back on the tray. The cable I have so long fixed with an aluminum bracket for the glue to dry.
  20. "Light Glass"

    Hello! Go on. The missing black angle and the coolant has arrived. Thank you so on Nanoxia ! Then we go's, last week I had to paint again the socket because I forgot a hole for the Sata cable . Was unfortunately otherwise. The weekend incl. Monday I was now fully engaged embarrassed with the electrical system and the cable. So first I have optimized cable management of the Cooler Master Silencio and from Riing. All cables cut and soldered an adapter extension cord and sleeved. then the WS2812B LEDs were glued to the angle in the bottom plate, and soldered wired. Now it came to the cables for Arduino run and the corresponding components Gradually, therefore everything is finally installed. Here, the fan grill with Gosumodz washer and the buzzer behind the PSU the first cable on Arduino currently it looks quite empty from the bottom but that will come to avoid unnecessary cables and adapters in the ground I built distribution stations for Molex and fan. the solder points still ground because I have unfortunately only one centimeter square down there and even a tape over it That way, once 6x 12V and 5V for the Arduino and the power supply The Molex distributor of the way, then depends directly on the power supply I need the Arduino and their components with 2 different power sources feed since the ultrasonic sensor (or another part) otherwise causes a feedback and the entire alarm system unable to work as they should, or permanently starts. In the base were put out of top analog RGBW LEDs which then illuminate the white Plexiglas and the interior. so gradually it is taking shape Now I put the cable and sleeve for the mainboard supply since the crimping tool is not worth much I had to again solder all pins and then slide into the sleevs Now I have only times the pinout of the Cooler Master listed cord and plug away because you can not buy the 10Pin and 18pin. and so it looks like in the ground no place for sleevs remains why look down just short out be sleeved. But since they are quite rigid I from bottom still Combs glued through which the cables can be laid at right angles. These Combs I recently sawed from a faulty milling. Since the router is broken. The I could now make good use for these purposes. here's the difference Slowly I should have thought of everything in the base, so I work my way slowly upward. Now it was only clean the Plexiglas and where necessary edge polish satin finishing or. Unfortunately, I had eventually ruined me with a dirty drill or screw the threaded and could also clean the threads befor after the cable for the SSD still drawn I want to put the 4 PCIe cables directly from the GPUs in the PSU, I now unfortunately become aware that I have released there only 2 slots. I could arrange that I get a Cooler Master V850 or the like. Unfortunately, until next week, but that's why I'm still going to continue to move the Main board cable. The V750 that I have now left I will soon be giving away on Facebook, I think when reaching the next favorite brand. The finish is excellent and keeps bomb. That would be unique Made by CapTen: D The second charge cable Combs are also arrived yesterday from my cousin that I have now again deburring and clean: sad: Next update coming .....
  21. "Light Glass"

    Love modding community! We are approaching the last update´s. Since the completion date ever closer moves I have somewhat neglected the worklogs, sorry. So I will summarize again the whole structure of the Arduino. The following components are installed, starting from the top left, so how to write. Stepper Motor 28BYJ-48 Driver ULN2003 Acoustic sensor HC SR04 90db buzzer keypad Arduino Nano infrared receiver capacitor 1000 microfarad Resistances 470 Ohm div. Pins Connectors Digital RGB LED Strip WS2812B remote What is it doing? -The Engine opens and closes the door in the base. Can be optional by the remote control or the keypad open close. LEDs in the base plate signal Orangenes light signal (flashing) -The Acoustic sensor covers the entire window and generates an alarm as soon as the window is touched. LEDs in the bottom panel lights red, buzzer sounds -The PC will be on the keypad start and reseten - Via the keypad and the remote control can be programmed to start different light games The Arduino is thus fully occupied. In February I program a little crash course in Arduino occupied and now use the following sketch, which I have partly written himself or adapted to my needs. CODE: In this arrangement, I then soldered everything As a mounting a small glass box cut and glued and it screwed the Arduino Now I have the Avexir Raiden still match the color, the small caps were painted in tone and sides covered with foil, a paint was here too risky because of color flake or run behind and they now look other day I finally found a suitable Bending Kit with which I was satisfied so I could put the last pipe penetrations and end the piping was again a lot of fun and so I had imagined the whole In the base I have tried a lot, unfortunately I forgot the picture from the final state to shoot, now everything is disassembled again. The chrome angle be exchanged for black, next week should be there The motherboard tray is illuminated from above, unfortunately I found no U-profile in the proposed material thickness, so I had to saw off the little tray The U-profile even liked it so angular not so I have it adapted to the case shape and the front slightly rounded The exhaust air under the PSU I had already cut but not considered that the angles from the base this still obscure, so I had here even adjust something Now I started to put all the necessary holes for the Arduino and the pump Here the buzzer behind the PSU and the keypad for the Acoustic sensor still set the holes for the adjustment, M1, screw and taps are on the way determines only the position of the SSD with the illuminated Tron and set the holes The entire motherboard tray will be screwed to the base Now it went last week to the painting, everything cleaned only once sanded and painted with aluminum primer now even more layers follow White with intermediate sanding and div Filling work and ready the pump bottom was painted in silver I now began to talk slowly with the assembling of, here a look under the PSU But there were other problems, As I have planned a special cable laying, I try to find someone already since 3 months of my cable Combs in Gosu style milled but no company is a vector file to convert to a 4mm Large Hole able. At my cousin the oil pump its CNC is broken, so I had only one choice, I was last weekend 15h even stand at the CNC and oiling the cutters in 5min clock. Here times the location (a dream) and so then it started it was the boring, 12 h later at home arrived from Munich back in Pforzheim, I was able to everything deburring by hand and clean. I fetched from the street me some gravel. then the Combs shaken of a while to just not having to grind the inside However, the peaks were in clover leaf so acute that I had it all yet deburring by hand from the outside, I have everything sanded with 600 paper and everything still manually cleaned with cleaner and then with alcohol That's bad, that's only half of Combs that I need but I would not make it this weekend, only 3h sleep and the Case I also wanted to work on. The whole deburring and clean took me all Sunday and the Gosumodz Aliance Combs still look better: P. In any case I can finally begin the connection wiring and just have all plexiglass edge polishing or burnishing. We have on Monday again a holiday, I think by then I will make good progress.
  22. "Light Glass"

    Thank you Hi guys! So "Nanoxia investigated the Super Modder" is over and I can concentrate fully on Lightglass again. After some problems with the customs duty I could pick last week even the memory. So a huge thank you to I can not decide which photos are best, so here's all me, unfortunately. this then came another SSD new Avexir S100 Series Since I have been waiting for a while on this package, I had prepared for it, the sliding door. As patterns I have a print out a label and logo cut with the scroll saw, all cut edges just filed and satin. Behind then come white Plexiglass so the Avexir Logo completely illuminated. So, more updates coming soon
  23. "Light Glass"

    Hi! I was last week, unfortunately, every day for my individual Cabelcombs and backplates stickers go. Parallel comes shortly a new project added which cost me too much time. As I said recently, I had adapted and completed some things already in color, but I have you do not even shown. Here times an image of the PSU, the CM Silencio, the Thermaltake Riing, EK radiator Conditions holders, and two logos from 3mm Plexiglas are that found on the front of the case, above and below the Riing their place. Some of the routes have been worth last week and I could make the backplates completed. and here the short instruction on how I manage that. First I had to create a vector file to let me cut a foil. then I cut two satin Plexiglas plates and set the holes When the Foil was finally finished I was allowed only once weeding everything and could then glue the transfer film on it, the whole then positioned on the backplates and mounted on the GPUs. From the front of the base I cut the hole for the keypad and set the grommet behind From Midplate I started to put the pipe penetrations and PCIe cable holes Are me really, really well done I think. frontsite backsite For feedthroughs I used a cone drill My IO cover I built again yesterday. I have not considered the one considers the case of most of the top, because then you can see the first THIS XD So I went again from the beginning and was also equal to make a few changes. a piece of aluminum sheet metal cut and folded smoothed with Alu Kit here's the comparison to the last! A little wider but much Space'iger then some other things: The Small 2mm PCI slot bracket was slightly too thick so I've exchanged with a 1mm steel cover The Monsoon Bending Kit you can not really use it for 16er tubes, there are large footprints on the inside of the tubes because the tubes Monsoon only 15.9mm in size. This a millimeter makes really a lot. The bent tube acts otherwise almost angular. So I next to my larger form (8cm radius) 2 small built me with 2.5cm radius be repeatedly painted So more updates soon
  24. "Der Zwerg" aka "The Dwarf"

    As first the result and then how it all began Welcome to our Worklog "Der Zwerg aka the Dwarf" Cooler Master choose "namealwaysinuse" and me "CapTen"(ronny78) to exhibit our projects on Game City in Wien and to do a live mod from 2.10.-4.10.2015. namealwaysinuse will publish his project MasterChief-Edition there. And I will exhibit the Dreamy Water there. Der ZWERG aka the Dwarf is a Master Case Pro 5 which will be transformed into a MATX Case. This is completely new and no one have seen it before. I don't give that much information because it will be a big surprise, so just sit back and relax the details will be published soon. Most of the used products we will get directly on the fair and we will publish the complete work log after the fair. Maybe we can do a few worksteps before to hit the timeline. If we can do some things you will be up to date in this work log At first we will present the awesome Master Case Pro 5. The live pictures you will get directly from the fair. Also there will be a awesome water cooling system in it Thanks to Aquatuning for supporting. Hardware: Case: Master Case Pro 5 CPU: Intel Core i5 4670K MB: Asrock Z97M Killer RAM: 8GB HyperX Fury Mermory White Kit GPU: AMD Radeon R9 Nano NT: Cooler Master V550 SSD: 240GB HyperX 3K SSD Kühlung: CPU: Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light - Plexi Nickel GPU: / Pumpe: Alphacool Laing DDC310 - Complete Edition - schwarz/Acetal AGB: Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 15 LT Radiatoren: 2 x Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm Lüfter: / Anschlüsse: 12 x Alphacool HT 16mm HardTube Anschraubtülle G1/4 - gerändelt - Chrome Adapter: 4 x Alphacool HF Winkeladapter 90° Alphacool HF Doppelnippel 2 x Alphacool HF Doppelnippel Verrohrung: Alphacool HardTube 16/12mm Plexi (PMMA) Liquid: / Tools and accessories: Alphacool HardTube Heat Gun Pro 2000W 2 x Phobya LED-Flexlight HighDensity 30cm UV diverse Phobya Flex Sleeve More? Soon! sponsored by:
  25. "Light Glass"

    So now equal to the next update. At every turn preceded's For the cable entry in Mainboardtray I made 2 cover for the 24 pin cable. The first I forgot to photograph completely, so the photos are somewhat mixed. then over Easter we went to the SLI-bridge and an IO Cover. I once got a bit ALU folded and then came to this result I found a little boring so I've glued a 2mm strip canted The IO cover first after a rough sketch unfortunately it was with GPU backplate but too tight so I had to saw off the lower portion painted in silver, then a little foil and a few stickers Here are 2 cover on the GPUs are screwed so that the weight is not completely seated on the Plexiglas all holes set thread cutting and trying on I then painted along with the PCI slot brackets. The slot covers I have previously still straightened even if you do not see but that had to be xD After I had installed recently by the PSU I noticed that the angle of blocking the whole view so I cut the angle in the range of sliding door with a Flex like it Then I once casually a bending mold for the radius I Need manufactured, From 4 feet were. 6 The bottom plate hung but centrally through quite a bit. Even if it is bolted to the base later, I want to play it safe The whole week I was busy putting large part with holes. Here the implementation behind the motherboard-tray in the base from there, we go into the base plate and then back out to the PSU. So there was only time to draw a lot and graining ago because I could not work with the drill press here I drilled the M4 holes with M3 and then with M4, everything slightly lowered and grinded here would be even a few different views from the rear on top of the PSU which is already painted here (more photos of them come under the PSU I have put into the base plate nor a fan opening so that the airflow in the base is also reasonably available that's it again for now. Up soon:D