capten

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Posts posted by capten


  1. Now the next update.


    Before the Cebit did not have much time and now I wait for the mod to come back again:D

    So ..... what had to be done:
    For the correct installation of the front radiator a few holes had to be changed

    img_2955qlpdn.jpg

    img_295641qti.jpg

    The HDD cover got to fix still angle

    img_29578ao8v.jpg

    The Aquaero has now finally its black aperture

    img_2977vwp2x.jpg

    The Flexlights for the interior and the PSu Window were soldered and sleeved

    img_304529p5g.jpg

    In the midtray was still a hole for a few MB cables and the GPU lighting set

    img_304976rv6.jpg

    The Sata cables I have shortened to a single connection. This is also quite easy. From the last Sata connection simply the cap carefully lever off and then the cable over the required plug as scarce as possible cut off. Now put the cap back on exactly this plug and done

    img_30593lq9p.jpg

    img_3060gdpox.jpg

    At the MB tray was as always exactly there a strut where the ATX cable should run, so also had to be helped here again.

    img_29794yq8q.jpg

    Since I no longer need the grommets of the midtray I could make a new execution for this big hole

    img_29769xr2w.jpg

    At the top there was still a vacancy which looked a bit dull, so I cut a little bit of aluminum, painted it and then covered with the red foil

    _mg_3079qbqp6.jpg

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    The extensions are now all ready

    _mg_2998j0rs0.jpg

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    Since one under the IO-Shield the radiator saw had to be made for this still a small aperture
    First the pattern taken

    _mg_3068c9p01.jpg

    Then cut out the appropriate piece from the front grille

    _mg_3069h4qq3.jpg

    On this grid are two stripes which I originally wanted to leave in red.
    First sawn a 3mm strip and then ground in shape

    _mg_3070qgo6v.jpg

    In red but it did not really fit so I painted black with two layers of clear lacquer

    _mg_3078lmqea.jpg

    The whole I then somewhat offset to the front fixed and with silicone glued

    img_3081ayoug.jpg

    Shortly before I have still two red LEDs set so that the slots in the front light

    _mg_3036x0s10.jpg

    All cables tidy hidden under the insulation

    _mg_303783ska.jpg

    _mg_3044p2s2c.jpg

    The GPU got red LEDs

    _mg_30237js9j.jpg

    The headset I have now also an individual touch given

    img_3062tfsn3.jpg

    img_3075lgsq0.jpg

    img_30763nsof.jpg

    Since the mussels are slightly arched, the Plexiglas had to be slightly bent

    img_30772ws06.jpg

    img_3082tqsyi.jpg

    The PSU Window left me no rest. I then found a good tutorial for cementing plexiglass.
    Important is polyester adhesive tape. So again a small window cut, adjusted, polished edges.
    Apply the polyester adhesive tape completely to the surface to be glued, then place the window on it and gently cut it with the scalpel once. So I now have a perfectly mashed surface.
    Remove the center tape now, of course. Then apply abundant to full acryfix and press the window gently free of bubbles.

    _mg_2973m5s94.jpg

    This time I have accelerated the drying process additionally with UV light, just in bad weather, the sunlight simply does not matter. I think it was also often to bubble formation so that the glue usually after 24h was not 100% hard. With the UV light I could break off the glue easily after 3 hours with a chisel.

    _mg_2978l3smg.jpg

    Stupid, I have the window on the wrong side glued XDXD but you can recognize the difference to the first attempt. No more bubbles and full glue on it :wink:

    _mg_3013o7sfo.jpg

    So all good things are 3. Unfortunately, 4-5 photos from the window have not changed anything but I will finish it in the final pics in detail.

    _mg_3024yjsfx.jpg

     _mg_3025rhsq8.jpg

    So, because I did not like the burgundy foil on the PSU cover with the red Plexi behind it, I painted it all black. Also the honeycomb covers of the Bitspower housing feedthroughs

    _mg_29721jsr7.jpg

    And then with the case colored red foil.

    _mg_3027hdszd.jpg

    The radiators were also painted in white and the slats with a red metallic lacquer

    img_2958hkshw.jpg

    img_2963x6sab.jpg

    In order to make the back a bit more photogenic, I have also continued here the red arrows

    _mg_29670ju14.jpg

    _mg_2968b3utp.jpg

    _mg_2970y6usn.jpg

    Also these holes in the case did not please me

    _mg_29716wuf4.jpg

    then everything foiled red again

    _mg_3030o7uzq.jpg

    _mg_3032v7uf7.jpg

    Now again a dangerous matter. The Windows had to be adjusted something so I can continue to use it. Since some covers were closing in the way, I had to separate something from the steel of the Windows.
    Since glass can crack quickly with the sudden contact with heat I am very cautiously proceeded and have repeatedly inserted breaks at the cutting.

    img_3063ofuq7.jpg

    But first I have the whole window with foil protected and then still an old rag for the protection against spark hung before it.

    img_30650sukb.jpg

    img_3064v1uul.jpg

    img_3066equxw.jpg

    So that was it! The memory and SSD has now finally arrived. So once I have the case again I can finally make the final photos  :phat:

    img_0180clusa.jpg


  2. HIHO!


    Up to the last update!

    all Alphacool logos were exchanged Chrome logos and the CPU holder got something orange accents.

    img_2306q6uiv.jpg

    for I was determined a half a day busy with weeding the stickers, but they were not the only stickers

    img_23101au7z.jpg

    as you can see the adapter fittings from behind, this had to be painted black

    img_2309ucuon.jpg

    then I've yet created a SLI Bridge and this cut from 2mm acrylic glass somewhat obliquely cut and glued together

    img_2311obuv8.jpg

    img_2315mvug3.jpg

    img_2316eaunp.jpg

    this has been repeatedly painted before and painted in the end black and covered with foil (the design of the graphics card) Unfortunately, I have a separate image of this, you can see it but the final images.

    On that PSU Cover I back side glued two strips to slide the cover exactly on the Mid-tray can.

    img_2313efu5c.jpg

    before Foiling the front I had to eliminate some damage

    img_2312kdujd.jpg

    then the cut edges of the windows were yet polished, unfortunately this is the best picture what I could get

    img_23173oukl.jpg

    img_2318z9uov.jpg

    Procedure: first scrape the edges with a scraper smooth, then sanding of 300 to 800 wet sandpaper, then polish with two polishing pastes and a felt pad and the very end with car polish and a cotton disk to mirror polish

    img_232159uuj.jpg

    Now I have the front covered with Carbonfoil

    img_2322m8u63.jpg

    Now I have the fenders on it glued, with double-thick adhesive tape, looks like a thermal pad, it has the appearance of a sealing rubber. :wink:

    img_2323btubz.jpg

    The headlights and the radiator grille will now also be glued, the Fronspoiler was screwed

    img_23263puz3.jpg

    the Xtreme Gaming stickers Gigabyte I can yet plotting to three times the size and for a small aluminum plate designed as a backing to give it some depth profile.
    This I then primed, painted, transferred the sticker and all onto the PSU cover glued

    img_2328z3uge.jpg

    img_2340kcua1.jpg

    For lighting I have two LED strips soldered with dimmable remote control handle.
    As under car illumination a black light LED comes strip used, these had a loose connection so I renewed the cable.

    img_2330dfuqu.jpg

    for the black light I still have cut an aluminum strip on the I Stripe glue. The strip was then glued centrally under the Case

    img_2331jwu7h.jpg

    one day I was busy with the cabling

    img_2335muu1q.jpg

    also had at every corner yet minimal corrections are made
    PSU cover did not fit completely, because of the Radi AIO was in the way, so I've cut out the cover below a small recess
    Brass pipes were all again adapted and something shortened because but a few things were not quite satisfactory.
    -an appropriate coolant I have mixed in distilled water and Mayhams Dey Yellow and Red.

    Now the worst after I had filled the Sys yesterday again with the correct Coolant and all just sample ran, there was an after 5min ZISCH and reservoir was empty.
    One of the brass tubes slipped from the CPU cooler and the pump has pumped their entire contents to the CPU / motherboard.
    super, something one day before completion.
    Well the Sys was out, it was only the pump, but I am a bit nervous to start the system.
    Yesterday I naturally everything dried again, mixed new Coolant, refilled again, and the whole then as to run through the night.


    So the Final Pics!
    Currently there is absolute chaos here have no proper place more. The quality of the images is modest beautiful, I will do the same next week new, as little taste, I hope this rich images

    img_2360upuu6.jpg

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    img_2350jfuql.jpg

    img_23528dugi.jpg

    img_23544luw1.jpg

    img_2338tcu9d.jpg

     

    Hi !



    As promised , the final pics.  ;)

    img_1670u1sef.jpg

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  3. It's Monday, time for next update;)



    Now I've upgraded the backplate visually.
    For this I have two red 3mm plexiglas plates cut and glued together

    img_2905upkq9.jpg

    img_290667kjl.jpg

    Then I cut these a few days later in shape and from 3mm to 6mm slanted obliquely, it unfortunately got badly photographed

    img_2913dxjoj.jpg

    img_2921zejgo.jpg

    Then everything completely matted and glued to the GPU.
    I've also added some of the motherboard's design.

    img_2923mmjyt.jpg

    img_2928gok5t.jpg

    Then it went with the foiling of the parts of the top

    img_29075ssw4.jpg

    Because then I noticed that the foil to little is. Well sometimes you have to see it all before you.
    I then began to edit the parts again

    img_2908kqsgi.jpg

    Besides, I have cut a new logo for the front and painted this silver

    img_291435sjj.jpg

    img_2915zjso9.jpg

    Now I finally finished all the parts and glued to the case with epoxy glue

    img_29169tsqe.jpg

    img_29325vsti.jpg

    img_29336zshl.jpg

    Then it was time to lay pipes

    img_289547suo.jpg

    Also here a few holes had to be set

    img_28995zsxs.jpg

    matching the honeycomb design I have two spacers built so that the case does not protrude throughs so far inward

    img_2937g1sl7.jpg

    img_2939vpsey.jpg

    And here the finished loop

    img_2948szspg.jpg

    As you can see in the last picture, all PCI Thumscrews were exchanged for white, and others were used at PSU

    img_2943xdsqs.jpg

    Somehow I thought the PSU cover was too unstable, the gap around the Aquaero have often changed. I thought 2mm Alu would be enough but so I now have two aluminum angles cut, primed, painted and glued to the PSU Window

    img_29500uste.jpg

    img_2953z3ssf.jpg

    Yesterday I started already with the sleeving of the cables. Actually already last week but with the Masterwatt is a sleeving 1: 1 not possible so I had to reject the plan and create now only Extension.
    The pump I have already finished :rolleyes:

    img_2951u0sm7.jpg

    So it is slowly coming to an end, but it still remains exciting as the cables all can be optimally laid and above all as I bring everything to the Aquaero:vain:


  4. The next update!



    Sorry for some images, with Energy Drink in the blood, it is difficult to keep the camera calmly XD.

    As recently already announced I had my first time a form for the 13er brass tubes build.
    So get bought in the hardware store and a 15er copper pipe and bent this.
    On the second try that also looked very presentable.

    img_21934xx38.jpg

    This bent pipe and a piece I've just halved with the Flex and sanded smooth.
    Now I have a perfect shape for the 13er tubes

    img_2194xzydj.jpg

    For the motherboard tray I have a 3mm aluminum plate cut and screwed into the Case

    img_219555xz6.jpg

    then sawed wood on the later, the leather is fixed

    img_21976hl3o.jpg

    Now the holes for the pipes and cable set.
    the pipe penetration needed 17er holes, so I first with a cone drill holes drilled 16er and finally even with a size 17 drill afterwards

    img_2198mryv3.jpg

    img_2200wry80.jpg

    img_22014dyb6.jpg

    img_220258lic.jpg

    img_2203onbrd.jpg

    after the 1/4 inch thread cutter was there I was able to secure the DTM exhaust.
    Just stupid that the angle was too thin so I decided from 3mm aluminum sheet suitable nuts cut and there purely cut the thread.
    Not pretty but rarely does what it should and can not be seen anyway.

    img_2204oyybr.jpg

    img_23049nq9q.jpg

    img_2305v8pvk.jpg

    matching brass tubes in DTM style were then cut to size

    img_2211a4ln5.jpg

    img_23034grwj.jpg

    This is what I can actually save me but I speak the topic anyway.
    After a little practice with the brass tubes and tube bender I have created the loop in the interior.

    img_2205jxbvj.jpg

    img_2207msazr.jpg

    and Cutt! I knew it! Every time I say to myself, do not start before the hardware is there and I have made the mistake again.
    My plan was to pack the graphics card in the lower 2 PCIe slots to have up enough space to tinker from the brass tubes a exhaust manifold.
    Yes if you plan in advance is all in vain.
    Coolers of graphics cards are too thick, you can not use the lower PCIe slot, even if the Mid tray comes out only stay 5mm up to PSU.
    Then there would be no more room for the wooden board with the leather and the PCI outputs on Case would also be extended by one.
    The loop at any rate nothing that cpus come up into it, half of the tubes I could accommodate but first I needed new.
    Well that later.
    Now I have set the position for the AIO radiators of GPUs. One comes before the power supply and the second comes from the back of the case.
    only times sawed So for the first hole in the ground

    img_2216atav1.jpg

    then put the hose guide from the AIO in Midtray

    img_2217qkxn2.jpg

    Then, an angle was cut carrying the pump and the second radiator of the AIO

    img_22182bzdd.jpg

    around the pump to be positioned as flexible as possible I have set oblong holes. For milling these holes I need to buy a cross table to me.
    Here I drilled only at the beginning and end of two holes and cut out the connection.

    img_2220sxarj.jpg

    then cut two angles and a flat bars for the radiator

    img_22293uln8.jpg

    img_2234dyz7k.jpg

    img_2236y5qa7.jpg

    then I fastened spacers for the rear side panel. (P5 Style)

    img_22376spxf.jpg

    well as already mentioned I have to make different loop so I displaced all the holes in the pipe carry out, just like the first time with cone drill drilled to 16mm and a 17mm drill afterwards.

    img_22415yp1j.jpg

    img_2242vcpr4.jpg

    the old holes I closed with aluminum kit and 2K Filler again, back simply tape it so that it does not fall through, which you can then easily be removed or sanded again.

    img_2244kxrrs.jpg

    after sanding nor a twice fine fill in and ready

    img_2247zxouy.jpg

    Now I have bent the window for the back to match the shape of the Cases

    img_2248ptr1t.jpg

    img_2249b7pbv.jpg

    img_22501gq47.jpg

    around the compressions of the outer corners in bend can not be seen. If the Window cut to size after the bend. Delicate matter I know.
    Beautifully clamped the whole and every 5cm goes be reclamped thus merely nothing wrong.

    img_2252d0pci.jpg

    img_2253oxo7e.jpg

    The side which closes the front is then beveled so that it nicely with the Case

    img_225977o3r.jpg

    fits perfect

    img_2262atpul.jpg

    sawn off only the top and bottom

    img_2263e6qf7.jpg

    img_2264ohpyb.jpg

    img_2265wbowe.jpg

    img_2268tlooj.jpg

    cut out another hole for the fan

    img_2269qwpjq.jpg

    and this then freed of unnecessary ballast :rolleyes:

    img_2270htpie.jpg

    img_22714wpd2.jpg

    img_22721jrqk.jpg

    fits also perfecly

    img_2274s2qf6.jpg

    img_2275g1ova.jpg

    Now I have the brass tubes to re-cut and bent.
    First of securing the pipe bender neat, which is even something of unwieldy and chromed tubes slip easily

    img_2276zrq88.jpg

    img_227782qh7.jpg

    img_2278ndpq5.jpg

    then all aluminum parts  were primed with filler and with aluminum primer

    img_2279aspw8.jpg

    all cutting edges on Case I have with color (Paintbrush) overlined to the rust prevention even if this is not the best method.

    img_2281apomv.jpg

    img_2283h3qgo.jpg

    Now I have the wood panels covered with leather

    img_22867gonf.jpg

    img_2287owow3.jpg

    The holes should in fact be stung with a Hollow Punch, the ground was too soft so I had to cut it with a knife. Not very clean but is concealed by the fittings.

    img_2288ojow0.jpg

    img_2289n6qst.jpg

    img_229022ptf.jpg

    img_2291faorh.jpg

    Now I have all the parts ready lacquered.

    img_22946yq2c.jpg

    so now the next challenge: a PSU cover. So that you still can still use the Window and open.
    So, at first bent a plexiglass
    Below only slightly slanted so as I said, the window can still be put in Case

    img_2296cqrad.jpg

    then completely cut to size and put yet holes for the tubes

    img_2297czqal.jpg

    Then I measured everything, position of the power supply etc. and the design transferred. here until the surface is the leather-covered

    img_2298wxq5g.jpg

    this surface then brushed with 40 grit sandpaper so that the contact adhesive holds

    img_2299m7plq.jpg

    Now I glued the leather on it.

    img_23009ouqv.jpg

    then I have three or four hours spent with the transfer of the film. You believe it or not, but for the whole PSU Cover I was good for 8 hours. That was not planned: P

    img_23016mu2p.jpg

    Before leather I had already made a Fillup, everything was tight. Get tomorrow everything reinstall and start with the cabling.
    Little things are still, Window outer edges polished, correct a few pipes at the loop, what you always see only the photos and operate at all corners yet tweaking.
    a Sli bridge I wanted to build but a little time still remains for me.  :D



  5. Here is the next update!
    I could last night unfortunately only 3h sleep then work 9h and 20.00 we have to take a night shift so I shall be brief

    There is not much to say, the pictures speak for themselves.
    Since the red film is a little translucent, I decided to double everything with film, so first black and then red.
    Here are the small items around the PSU Window.

    img_2858gysp8.jpg

    Then I the last week only polished

    img_2859vvsfo.jpg

    img_2860aosa9.jpg

    img_2861epsfg.jpg

    img_2863slstn.jpg

    img_2864rmsv5.jpg

    img_2865ubspr.jpg

    The black plexiglass was only frosted with 600 wet abrasive paper.
    Is hardly recognizable in the photos.

    img_2866dlsoq.jpg

    img_2869bysgz.jpg

    img_2870ovsn0.jpg

    img_28735gsn0.jpg

    Then it went to filming, first everything with black foil and then with red foil

    img_28759fsz0.jpg

    Comes cool 8)

    img_2876stsc9.jpg

    The small elements of the PSU window were made of burgundy foil which fits perfectly to the mainboard, the red foil is matching the case

    img_28773qs64.jpg

    Then everything was glued with transparent silicone to the Windows

    img_2878lhsgo.jpg

    img_287934s9i.jpg

    And then lettering with white foil

    img_2882jfsls.jpg

    img_2883yvs1k.jpg

    Here the PSU window, glued with silicone, the small varnished strip I have previously covered with the burgundy foil

    img_28848ts0w.jpg

    At the front there were some problems, as the front is slightly arched, the plexiglass was under tension and did not hold.
    So everything had to clean again and paint again.
    The plexiglass I have still slightly warmed and bent before the second attempt before I have attached it with epoxy glue.

    img_2885n4sx0.jpg

    With the other elements I am exactly the same.
    Yeah !! I like it  :D

    img_28861gsdf.jpg

    Unfortunately, I had occasionally epoxy glue on the hands and the many cleaning of the surfaces, the paint was so strongly attacked that I had to paint everything again.
    I really wanted to avoid it, but I could not let that happen.

    img_28870mscg.jpg

    img_28883iser.jpg

    img_2889h0sia.jpg

    Soo I like it better

    img_2890ulspw.jpg

    Short and sweet :wink:
    This week comes the top and hope also the cable sleeving or tubing.   8o



  6. So it goes, after I had to grind all parts again and rework

    img_2826atocz.jpg

    Everything was painted

    img_28275erma.jpg

    img_2829scrwn.jpg

    Afterwards, all parts were fixed to the base plate and glued with Acrifix 1S 0116.

    img_283048q73.jpg

    As expected, of course, I slipped a few times with the syringe, damn grrr

    img_2831vnq4m.jpg

    img_28320xruy.jpg

    The attempt to paint it was not particularly satisfying. I will foliate the places later

    img_2833k4qd7.jpg

    Despite all this, I am very satisfied with the color concept. I like it:thumbsup:

    img_2836ripdu.jpg

    After a long time, I think a good design for the front and the top. It is a mixture of 2mm and 3mm Plexiglas combined in high gloss and matt.
    So now I began to transfer all the patterns to the Plexiglas and cut them out
    The front

    img_2838v5rfs.jpg

    and the top

    img_2839ukq7h.jpg

    img_284042rfw.jpg

    Besides, I disconnect a graphics card from Light Glass, it hurt: heul
    and this converted to Bitspower.
    For that, the PCI bracket had to be folded again and painted black

    img_2841rfqfz.jpg

    img_2844s0r13.jpg

    img_2845bspcv.jpg

    img_2846g8q3d.jpg

    For the HDD Cover I now still cut a second plate in white and for the strip of the front plexiglass 2x6mm

    img_2847syq9v.jpg

    All parts for the top and the front are now bevelled (is there a term for this in English?)

    img_2848edqzi.jpg

    Now the Coolermaster logo away with 2x polyester 2 / K spatula

    img_2849uqq4v.jpg

    And then I glued the 6mm strips on the front, fixed with seconds glue and the outer edges all closed with Acrifix, really complicated because the front is slightly bent.

    img_2850yxqio.jpg

    after the glue was dry, I then again revised the ends of the strips until all straightened with hand and power file, minor damage were 2 / K spatula

    img_2851yto0w.jpg

    Then everything again primed and varnished

    img_285248u1t.jpg

    img_2855dnu3c.jpg

    Now the edges of the white plate are polished and

    img_2854fauty.jpg

    So the result.
    Here everything is already positioned for the water cooling and measured whether everything fits so far.
    Therefore only the pipes have to be cut.

    img_2857hkud3.jpg

    so then, see you soon!

    • Upvote 1


  7. Hello!

    As announced I made a small engine bonnet.
    For that I have transferred the fan opening from the lid on aluminum

    2859273

    then I have again created me two forms to reshape the aluminum

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    now deformed and cut out the aluminum

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    looking for something I can build a engine bonnet breech, I found it here (right the original)
    The pins I cut to length and each provided with a hole

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    then halved a key chain and so it should look like

    2859277

    after it was painted, I have the engine bonnet covered with carbon foil and glued the bonnet breech it

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    The chipset cooler from the motherboard had to change their color

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    Then I started already times to relate the radiators with leather

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    attempts me times on a small piece of wood, with 2 cm foam material upholster on

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    the headlights I also equipped already with Led's

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    for the area in front of the IO panel I had to create a cover because you could see from there quite well behind the radiator or on the reservoir

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    to let red disappear all the motherboard I have folded a small aluminum sheet and painted to cover all Sataports

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    Cpu Holder was also repainted

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    The cable duct in the MB tray had to be moved, I got him simply cut out and placed to the left behind the Radi bracket

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    The Ram modules I have also mounted casual.
    but ran is not according to plan. The GSkill have only one side of memory so she slipped always out of the bottom.
    I have also used it nor the thermal pad of the original cooler.
    Now when I wanted to mount the cooler on the modules, a problem again. The screws are all 2mm too long. So I got all screws 2mm shorter sanded, unfortunately, had no right here

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    so much for that than next I have the exhaust manifold from the brass tubes tinker.

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  8. Hi Guys!



    Go on.
    After transferring the designs to the Plexiglas, I also cut these out

    img_27894wuys.jpg

    then tailored for the small strip on the far left a few times 2mm strips

    img_2790keubr.jpg

    Actually the red plexiglass should be polished but these small 2 x 20mm strips all the same to grind brought me to white heat. So I glued the small stripes with epoxy glue to the aluminum and just sanded them after curing.
    The Red Plexiglas later foiled everything anyway. I just wanted the UV effect of the polished edges. But in this one place I will be able to cope with it. These strips are then painted with. :wink:

    img_279711uyq.jpg

    img_2808gfuwt.jpg

    Two aluminum brackets have now been cut for the holder of the Aquaero

    img_2792o5ukw.jpg

    img_2793seui7.jpg

    In this form, the entire cover did not fit into the PSU bay anymore. I thought I had to shorten the whole aperture still a bit but the angle adjust has also helped.

    img_2798oiuuj.jpg

    Since I have failed with the actual midtray miserably as far as the soldering, but it left me no rest,
    I still had to practice and test something.
    Screws I wanted here actually very reluctant.
    Somehow it worked then, I believe at least.
    It looked quite ok for a few remnants

    img_2805mfu60.jpg

    So I now ventured to the correct angle.
    Everything with as little contact with other surfaces so that the heat can not be dissipated as quickly and as a base a granite slab. Last but not least, the veneer of the workbench flown around my ears, they gave a loud bang XD!
    So everything neatly sanded and degreased and then everything for soldering eigespannt.

    img_2804eluqa.jpg

    img_2806b2ufe.jpg

    I am really satisfied with the result. In the sample I did not have such good capillary action.

    img_2807c0u09.jpg

    The window for the PSU I now cut from 2mm Plexiglas and polished all edges.

    img_2794sdu5z.jpg

    img_2795j8uxz.jpg

    I have now completely glued on a 1cm larger plate

    img_2824hoj1n.jpg

    Is a little bubble but I like the effect. Thanks to the brass pipes of the water cooling you will not see any water in the system anyway.

    img_2799viumt.jpg

    img_2801leuim.jpg

    The holes for the PSU aperture were still set at an angle behind I cut thread

    img_2802fbun6.jpg

    img_2803z6ukt.jpg

    The patterns for the front I have all transferred to 2mm Plexiglas and sawn.
    Who knows?
    Here I have already made the first changes to the original file?
    I have here, incidentally, two 2mm slices glued together and both with a dishwashing cut;)
     
    img_2809rvum6.jpg

    img_2810t0u5h.jpg

    The two elements above the arrows I have cut from 2mm aluminum because I want to bend here a small rod

    img_28112ruao.jpg

    img_2812zzjdw.jpg

    I have now marked these rods and cut them with the fine-boring grinder, which, by the way, did not say goodbye after two years. Man again buy new machine grrr
    These I then clamped between two steel strips and worked something with the hammer until I was satisfied

    img_2813aejcn.jpg

    img_2814juk8i.jpg

    Jooooo, So beautiful I could not even imagine it  :D

    img_2816ugjie.jpg

    Oh so on Sunday I wanted to spare my neighbors times a bit so I began to polish some parts of the red plexiglass

    img_28180ojxw.jpg

    All these here
    I cut off all cutting edges with a Cutta blade, then polished from 320 (400, 600,) to 800 paper wet and finally polished with two polishing pastes on high gloss.
    Pagan work, man man and that was not even half

    img_281941jc1.jpg

    In order to see slowly times to go forward I began yesterday with the paint.
    Will finally also see whether it all acts as I imagine it before it goes with the other surfaces.
    Aluminum got a special 1 / K aluminum primer and the Plexiglas I primed with plastic adhesion mediator.
    Then continue working with spraying spatula.

    img_2820hbkjf.jpg

    img_2822xtk4v.jpg

    My workshop is definitely too small  :|

    So then, let's see how far I come next week.


  9.  

    Hello all !



    Here I want to introduce all components used again.
    I had the last week but frequently walking day :D


    Here the ASRock Fatal1ty X99X Killer/3.1. I think the contrast of red green really well.
    A motherboard in free wilderness not seen so often, still untamed :vain:

    2858718

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    G.SKILL RIPJAWS V DDR4 2666MHz

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    the Gigabyte GeForce® GTX 1080 Xtreme Gaming Waterforce

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    the Gigabyte 1200W Power Supply XP 1200M

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    here the Enermax T.B.Silence in 14cm

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    and that´s the T.B.Vergas White in 12cm with white LED´s

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    and here many components from the new Alphacool Eis-Serie

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    and here again the Mastercase Maker 5 with tempered glass window and mama and papa swan  :P

    2858740

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    Despite still missing parts I could not let it remain and have begun already times.
    So let's get started!
    First, as always, the case was made naked.

    2858742

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    Now it went straight to the air intake slots of a fender. Dry runs I had behind me so right now.
    I transferred to aluminum the dimensions of the front and mark the position of the louvers

    2858744

    Now I have a positive and negative form for it to create the aluminum during peening / flanging (as called the molding of aluminum at all ?, I do not know it) does not tear unintentionally.
    But I've just the 4 different slots milled in MDF and fits to the counterpart

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    Now cut the slots in the wood

    2858748

    then all processed with the hammer and the shapes and cut out in the end only from the large aluminum plate

    2858749

    it goes on with a front spoiler, only cut the spoiler lip from acrylics

    2858750

    Try and think of something I had an image in the head thereto and have more acrylics radicals tailored and trimmed ground

    2858751

    at the same time the rear spoiler is made. Here I decided for MDF.
    First of coarse cut design

    2858752

    and now missed the whole a Aerodynamic shape. This reminded me when working on more planes than cars  :D

    2858753

    The bottom 3cm where the spoiler on the case is I have glued a second MDF board, have not photographed but in the later images of the painting you can see the spoiler down around gets thicker

    2858754

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    after I was now on all operations of the front spoiler in the clear I have glued the various acrylic parts with each other

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    then I bent from aluminum small wing spoiler

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    then everything was primed to start the filling, just the front spoiler had to be done much

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    After the water cooling has arrived, it went to the cutout for the reservoir

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    despite a PVC cutting disc that work is always pure torture

    2858762

    but just as I had imagined

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    only new holders for the reservoir is made.
    Preferably 3mm aluminum angle, still remainder of my desk;)

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    casually, because of all the dry processes the spoilers were always times filled and primed

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    The opening behind the louvers had to be cut

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    Now the radiator grille

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    the rear spoiler was now ready for painting, so I have all the holes for the mounting set and the actual wing cut to size and glued. Here again 3mm acrylic glass

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    after gluing with epoxy adhesive the connections equal primed and filled

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    after the radiator grille was now cut out

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    I find the optimum position for the small wing spoilers and those glued to the alu sheets with the air slots

    2858774

    is slowly taking shape

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    A DTM exhaust is also planned so a aluminum bracket was cut

    2858776

    and then drilled holes for the exhaust pipes
    The exhaust is then the way from a few remnants of brass pipes and fittings with 45 ° angle.
    A 1 / 4Zoll thread cutter I have not yet, I ordered yesterday and should still arrive this week

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    here I had everything tested, by lacquered whether I like the result. One often sees irregularities only when it's done, so better now before there is no time.  :lol:

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    the holders of the reservoir were also painted, are here mounted

    2858780

    and fits beautifully

    2858781

    What next? Headlights: P
    cut 1 cm acrylic glass strip and only once sanded quite a while and burnt fingers

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    Now I have this cut and polished in the headlight shape  :doofy:

    2858783

    had himself photographed really bad

    2858784

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    I've cut and folded the front grille of the fan guards from Case, this will sit flush with the front spoiler lip as of  8o

    2858786

    next update comming soon!


  10. Hi!
     
    After the case was made naked, I had to realize that my radiator constellation was not as fit as I wanted.
     
    img_24431ya74.jpg
     
    After a long time, I had to saw.
    The 280er does not fit above and the 240er comes extremely far down then the piping then the mainboard would cover, so the 280er upwards.
    The yellow taped points I will cut first.
    The second marking is for the 8Pin Atx cable which is exactly centered with the Gaming I7. Sloping cable routing is not my thing, so I will enlarge the cable lead.
     
    img_2675ojl79.jpg
     
    In order to work there clean, I had to remove only the rear handle from the case.
     
    img_267687bqv.jpg
     
    And then everything clean, in the taped condition, cut open
     
     img_26800xbki.jpg
     
    img_26812wla8.jpg
     
    With the radiator bracket I had only the rear wall cut off
     
    img_2682cjy00.jpg
     
    img_2683lwa9o.jpg
     
    The ATX cable bushing I cut up well on the double size and of course, once slipped off and the paint damaged.
    Since I have already tried massively in different colors it meets this here with best but wanted to use and I will not continue it.
     
    img_268407lky.jpg
     
    img_26875sl29.jpg
     
    Then I riveted the handle from the case immediately and the rivets painted black (right), all interfaces of course also ..
     
    img_268813lzd.jpg
     
    img_2689r6yvh.jpg
     
    img_269020zbn.jpg
     
    Then I once cut all possible materials, cut patterns created, plotted and transferred to the material.

    0,75 Alu for the Midtray
    2mm Plexi for the HDD Cover Designs
    3mm plexiglass red fluorescent as base plate for HDD cover and The X99 Arock arrows for the Windows.
     
    img_2693kixnp.jpg
     
    Now it was also starting with the sawing, first the 2mm Plexiglas
     
    img_2700ifxk3.jpg
     
    Then the aluminum sheet
     
    img_27365lzyj.jpg
     
    img_27377mzuk.jpg
     
    And the Decals for the Windows
     
    img_2741cmxl7.jpg
     
    After the sawing of the 2mm strips I have now all these on neat gaps, straightened and sanded.
    The still black stripes come then in 3mm Plexi
     
    img_2746vbl2o.jpg
     
    Which I have sawn out next
     
    img_2747xll1v.jpg
     
    Now I fixed all strips with double-sided tape and the dimensions for the base plate marked
     
    img_2750dbz6v.jpg
     
    Then I have the 2mm Plexiglas again completely ground, cleaned and with double-sided tape on a sheet glued so that it does not fly away from the paint.
     
    img_2751brass.jpg
     
    The base plate is now also tailored
     
    img_27529nbal.jpg
     
    The edges I have all slanted to the half to 45 degrees. The outer edges with the top cutter and the inner edges by hand
     
    img_2759qzx42.jpg
     
    The sheet metal for the Midtray was now completely cut and then folded.(bent)
     
    img_2766biase.jpg
     
    img_276794l1m.jpg
     
    Now I have cut 2mm aluminum for the PSU cover and cut a few small angles as a bracket and soldered together (also here: does not ask how, absolute disaster but it holds)
     
    img_2776ycymg.jpg
     
    img_2779b6l3t.jpg
     
    Now I have transferred the designs to the PSU cover
     
    img_2784qdbpd.jpg
     
    The Aquaero must be a bit deeper, so I have now torn all the surfaces to be sawed
     
    img_27852fa7a.jpg
     
    Everything still nice straight cut
     
    img_2786a9lef.jpg
     
    And the section for the PSU still slightly bevelled
     
    img_2787ksawh.jpg
     
     
    So that would be status quo.
    Next, I'm trying to create an inlay for the PSU window, hope it works out the way I've seen it with some others. Is indeed something angular.
    And for the front of the case I'm still looking for inspiration. I just can not think of what I do best under the arrows, where the Cooler Master logo sits. Something has to be there because otherwise it looks boring.




    So many thanks for reading, until the next update!;-)

  11. Welcome to my next Project:



    „Maker EVO Deluxe"


    After a long time of thinking, I've decided to do a more complex Casemod. Lets see what I'm doing with it.
    To be called into action is coming the brand new Mastercase Maker 5.
    Inspired was this Mod from the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution.
    The interior was completely cleaned and covered with pale Leather. For the Cables/PSU Area a Cover was created in the Design of the Case.
    It should be installed a lavish Watercooling with Brasstubes and Chrome Fittings which should seems like a Header.
    The AGB will fitted justified in the front of the Case, so that it will be one unit on that case and be used as brake fluid reservoir.
    At the Case you will find some air scoops, which are normally founded on engine covers or fenders., which will be made from me out of Aluminum Plates.
    At the Leather I made different punch works.
    Here and there will be a Wing installed together with Headlights and one DTM Axle Back Exhaust.
    The Theme is called Sportcar and I will try to make as much Details as possible.

     



    A huge thank to all who supported this Project, without your Help
    the Execution of this Project wouldn't be possible.


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    little preview  :rock:

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    :lol:

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    Hardware:

    Case: MasterCase Maker 5
    Graphiccards: 2 x Gigabyte GeForce® GTX 1080 Xtreme Gaming Water cooling
    Mainboard: ASRock Fatal1ty X99X Killer/3.1
    CPU: Intel Core I7 5820K
    Ram: 8 x 8GB G.SKILL RIPJAWS V DDR4 2666MHz
    SSD: HyperX 3K Limited Edition White 240Gb
    Netzteil : Gigabyte XP1200M

    Watercooling:

    Pump:Alphacool VPP655 - G1/4 IG inkl. Eisdecke D5 - Plexi V.3
    CPU : Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light - Brass Black Chrome
    Ram : Alphacool D-RAM Modul (für Alphacool D-RAM Cooler) -...
    Alphacool D-RAM Cooler X4 Universal - Acetal Black Nickel
    GPU : 2 x Gigabyte GeForce® GTX 1080 Xtreme Gaming Water cooling
    AGB : Alphacool Eisbecher 250mm Acetal Ausgleichsbehälter
    Radiator: Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm
    Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm Radiator
    Brasstubes : Alphacool HardTube 13/10mm 90° Messing Chrome 10/50cm
    Hardtubes : Alphacool Eisrohr 13/10mm Plexi (PMMA) HardTube Satin...
    Alphacool HardTube 13/10mm Plexi (PMMA) Klar 80cm - 4er Set
    Fittings : Alphacool Eiszapfen 13mm HardTube Anschraubtülle G1/4 für chrome and black
    Fans: Enermax T.B.Silence 14cm
    Enermax T.B.Vegas 12cm weiß


    Accessories:

    Aluminum
    Acrylics
    Wood and MDF
    white Leather
    Blank Leather
    Punch iron
    Swivel knife
    Color, Coating Spray
    Pipe Bender


  12. Project „SL5T“



    "SL" as you already know from Mercedes Benz, is to make the first impression what this project stands for. Elegance, luxury and simple forms.

    The MasterCase Maker 5T is used.
    The interior is as discreetly as possible cleared of all unnecessary elements.
    The walls are clad with Plexiglas and multi-layered in the design of the mainboard.
    An elaborate water cooling system is installed which, however, is kept as minimal as possible.
    A cover is made for the cable area, which provides a window for the PSU and on which the ASROCK logo is placed in case size.
    The logo is framed with the design of the X99 Gaming I7 as well as I would like the elements of the mainboard to continue the whole case. (The red racing arrows between the lower two PCIe slots)
    All cables are sleevedin the hardware colors.
    From the outside the contours of the Maker 5T are emphasized by Plexiglas, where also sponsor logos will be found.

    So much for the formal part.
    The Maker5t will be my next Rig, since I have not yet a good portable Gaming PC.
    So I have now also evasive possibilities when my table times problems and above all I can finally also times my table new hardware miss.

    Actually, I wanted in this project not so much effort to operate but again will grow the mod again tremendous.

    Since I now the first time on a separate X99 board change, I dedicate this mod to the

    ASROCK X99 Gaming I7

    And let the whole project be inspired by the mainboard.

    Hardware

    CPU: Intel Core I7 6850K
    Mainboard: Asrock Fatal1ty X99 Professional Gaming I7
    Ram: Avexir Blitz 4x4Gb 2800Mhz
    SSD: Avexir S100 240Gb
    GPU: Nvidea Geforce GTX970
    PSU:MasterWatt Maker 1200
    Case:MasterCase Maker5t

    Watercooling

    Bitspower NGTX970MGV2 Acrylic (Clear) BP-WBVGNGTX970MGV2NPAC
    Bitspower Leviathan Xtreme 240 4xG1/4" Radiator BP-NLX240-F4PB
    Bitspower Leviathan Slim 280 4xG1/4" Radiator BP-NLS280-F4PB
    Bitspower DDC Plus Pump BP-DDCPLS
    Bitspower DDC TOP Water Tank Integrated Kit 300 (POM Version With Z-CAP II) BP-DDCTOPWTIK300PC3-BKCL
    Z-Tube 250( ICE Red) BP-WTZACT250-IRD
    Bitspower DDC Pump Cooler Bracket (Red) BP-DDCPCBT-RD
    Bitspower Pump Cooler For DDC/MCP355 (Red) BP-DDCPC-RD
    Bitspower CPU Block Summit EF (Intel) (Acrylic Top Version) BP-WBCPUIAC-CUMBKWH
    Bitspower CPU Block Plate For Intel CPU (Deep Red) BP-CPUIPT-DRD
    Bitspower G1/4" Deluxe White Enhance Multi-Link For OD 12MM BP-DWEML
    Bitspower G1/4" Deep Blood Red Enhance Multi-Link For OD 12MM BP-DBREML
    Bitspower Deep Blood Red Enhance Rotary G1/4" 90-Degree Multi-Link Adapter BP-DBRE90RML
    Bitspower Deep Blood Red Enhance 90-Degree Dual Multi-Link Adapter BP-DBRE90DML
    Bitspower Deluxe White Enhance Rotary G1/4" 90-Degree Multi-Link Adapter BP-DWE90RML
    Bitspower Deluxe White Enhance 90-Degree Dual Multi-Link Adapter BP-DWE90DML
    G1/4" Deluxe White Rotary 90-Degree IG1/4" Extender BP-DW90R
    G1/4" Deluxe White Mini Dual G1/4" Extender BP-DWWP-C42
    G1/4" Deluxe White Rotary G1/4" Extender BP-DWRG
    G1/4" Deluxe White Muti-Transfer Adapter BP-DWWP-C03
    G1/4" Deluxe White IG1/4" Extender-15MM BP-DWWP-C60
    Deluxe White Mini Valve With Black Handle BP-MVV-DWBK
    Deluxe White Q Plus-Block BP-DWFMB
    G1/4" Deluxe White Stop Fitting BP-DWWP-C06
    Bitspower None Chamfer Brass Hard Tubing OD12MM Deep Red - Length 300 MM BP-NCBHT12DRD-L300
    G1/4" Deluxe White Aqua-Pipe I BP-DWWP-C17
    G1/4" Deep Blood Red CaseTop Water-Fill SET BP-DBRWP-C04
    X-Station Mini Power-Extension I Female Version BP-MINIXSP1F-RD
    Bitspower Logo Aluminum Thumb Screw For 632 (Deep Red BP-LATSC632-DRD
    Bitspower Logo Aluminum Thumb Screw For 632 (White) BP-LATSC632-WH
    Bitspower Metal Tubing Cutter BP-CMMTC
    Bitspower Flow Indicator BP-FI-CLBKWH
    Red Blade For Bitspower Flow Indicator BP-BFI-RD
    Control: Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT

    equipment

    Fan:2 x NB eLoop B12-1 ,3 x NB eLoop B14-1
    Headphone:MasterPulse
    Keyboard:MasterKeys Pro M


    Sketches

    In order to bring the project as smoothly as possible, I took this time a bit more time on the computer and already times sketches for the different covers created.
    The elements are glued together in several different colors.
    Partially varnished, partially foil and partly (only) polished.
    For use comes Plexiglas in various colors and thicknesses, aluminum foils and varnishes.

    This is only the rough basic idea, should expect again but not look good I let myself think of something else: thumbup:

    This cover comes on the right side in the case inside where the drive bays sit.
    To the right the original pattern and to the left the lighting effect.

    coverrechts5is85.jpg

    Here the front, whether the red arrows will really work well, we will see

    front8zso0.jpg

    Here the front of the PSU cover, the design on the left will frame the window to the PSU

    psucoversfszd.jpg

    And here the elements for the Windows, not completely in red but as template it is enough

    windows47snm.jpg

    Hardware pic´s

    The majority of all components are already there, but see for yourself:


    img_1848amdsag.jpg

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    img_23866jsw4.jpg

    img_2390ccsd3.jpg


    A big thanks goes to all who support me with this project:

    ASROCK

    COOLERMASTER

    BitsPower

    Blacknoise

    Avexir


  13. img_1016g4s0m.jpg

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    "Light Glass" by night with different lighting effects


    Alarm mode(red LED)

    img_09764ssmx.jpg

    while the door opens (orange LED)

    img_0995mys8x.jpg

    and a few rainbow effects

    img_10319nssd.jpg

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    Okay, it was nice!
    I'll tinker just a video for the whole hope to get that in 2 weeks out.
    So see you soon! :thumbsup:


  14. So now we go!

    I made a rough selection of all images but because I have nothing to hide and so a lot of work in this project lies,
    gets her now photos from all possible perspectives accurately as various lighting.
    I hope I did not forget any details. :D

    "Light Glass" deactivated by day

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    "Light Glass" is switched by night

    in blue

    img_0980z1s50.jpg

    in white

    img_0983eushs.jpg

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  15. on Friday I thought that Silencio see behind two 3mm Plexiglas and 2mm aluminum frame from something boring, so I have the frame summarily cut off so that further extend the rotor blades from the Case

    img_19392jsgu.jpg

    so without damage was also not, so I concerned shall points again painted.

    img_1940d5sxg.jpg

    the small curved pieces for the back I attached with a spacer with the screws Case
    No I would not flush, the distance is chosen deliberately because it would have the gap either way perceived and had a bond the screws obscured

    img_1946nss5t.jpg

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    last week, I have created the missing decals and was able to pick up on the weekend me.
    I had weeded again everything yourself.
    This comes on the rear window completely down

    img_1962g7s55.jpg

    take the Avexir lettering, 1.6 mm character height I had normal Stickers
    and some other things that can be seen later on the Finalpics;-)

    img_196347ske.jpg

    the lighting of the hardware itself was somehow not quite as I expected, so I decided to TE-block from the top with a small strip to illuminate thus also equal to the GPU backplates are illuminated with.
    So even a small angle cut, primed and painted

    img_1938ozsfm.jpg

    the current then immediately swiped from the top S-Light, the cable is thus exactly behind the ATX connectors and is not visible

    img_1941wksd6.jpg

    img_19426ms6e.jpg

    Now It's something offtopic further.
    For photo shoot I wanted something special but a suitable museum I did not to me and a jewelry shop / jeweler as a painter I need to ask not even.
    So I got short hand out my bedroom wall redesigned.
    wallpaper removed

    img_1951n6sns.jpg

    completely plastering, primed and painted two times white

    img_195996slb.jpg

    then centrally glued a snakeskin wallpaper

    img_1975casbf.jpg

    fits to or vice versa, I have this weekend even built me a stand for the case and the keyboard, mouse.
    The stand for the Case is a transport box which I can buckle with foil as on a Euro pallet, the case then.
    First the hardware store all materials Bought, the wallpaper I had ordered last week on the Internet

    img_1949x8s1b.jpg

    from old remnants I cut a few strips for the bottom

    img_195378s24.jpg

    then glued together and to the ground

    img_1954bas1j.jpg

    Angle cut and primed

    img_1955fps02.jpg

    the whole box glued to each other and once primed

    img_1956j9s5l.jpg

    angel paint in silver

    img_1957jisak.jpg

    The stand for the keyboard exactly tailored and everything glued to each other

    img_1960b8ssz.jpg

    img_19613zsgr.jpg

    mounted on the box still Tension Latches

    img_1964bss5k.jpg

    and then also primed and painted

    img_1965mlssb.jpg

    img_1966bbs07.jpg

    corresponding areas of the object also painted

    img_19677ksjl.jpg

    img_19689vsid.jpg

    and then glued to finish off the wallpaper and then the angle on the edge

    img_1971f6xnq.jpg

    img_1972bwbgx.jpg

    Okay "thats it".
    System I have filled yesterday and leaktest made everything alright.
    Tomorrow I will make the final pics and will then latest day after tomorrow post! :-)



  16. Hi everyone!

    My last update, the project is ready but the Finalpics I'll do tomorrow.
    Here now only times all work I've done the last few weeks.

    Sorry that took me so long posted anything but I was really afraid not to be ready in time.
    So I try to be brief, there are still quite a lot of photos and more than half I have already deleted. : D
    If any ambiguities are just ask okay?

    Under the SSD Tron I have placed a small RGB Strip, connected to the LEDs in the base.

    img_1836bcs8c.jpg

    then came from my cousin the second charge cable Combs.
    Again, the same program as the last time, all the cut / break, deburring, sanding and clean.

    img_18393pstl.jpg

    then it went to the sleeving on.
    Times as info that cable velvet Sleeve'm not getting through Combs through why I prefer all sleevs first and then push the cable through. This is very good because the PLX sleevs are quite rigid.
    First, the 8 and 4 pin ATX cable

    img_1842uds7a.jpg

    img_1843cqs5g.jpg

    and then the 24 pin cable, do not forget the small cover which I built for carrying

    img_18443jsj4.jpg

    img_1845o0s6y.jpg

    img_1846yhs9f.jpg

    img_1847mcsqw.jpg

    img_1850qks5i.jpg

    img_1851lhstd.jpg

    now came the worst, all the cables together.
    For this I have number to each cable and after many corrections and try with hot glue so I fixed the second base plate at all it get

    img_1856owsl6.jpg

    img_18590asw6.jpg

    Unfortunately, nothing helped, I had to cut the lower base plate, due to a half centimeter

    img_18645vswu.jpg

    good for the entire bottom plate I have another 4 holes set as the 2mm aluminum but was not as robust as expected

    img_18654ispz.jpg

    Then I put all power and reset cable

    img_18703gsub.jpg

    img_18722fsqz.jpg

    img_18736fsiq.jpg

    and last but not least the PCIe cable, unfortunately not quite the way I wanted but I think that can be so by go XD

    img_18752isp5.jpg

    img_18777vsbh.jpg

    The entire cable management cost me a total of 3 weeks now. Daily 6h after work and on weekends and holidays also determined 12 hours a day. And I thought I do it on a weekend finished XD.
    Now it was time to polish all edges:
    just like the dice I have all the edges with a sword Cutta peeled and then ground from 320 to 800 grit sandpaper. After that two polishing pastes and finally with pure polish.

    img_1879ufsiu.jpg

    img_1884j5s1y.jpg

    img_18871os6o.jpg

    I had tried to talk to a small piece to see how far fits the design and have this now transferred to the sliding door and rear wall for this to bend then.

    img_1888ctslf.jpg

    Now cut

    img_1889k4s31.jpg

    and then bent

    img_1891wtsmt.jpg

    img_189319swl.jpg

    ready

    img_1898bgsf7.jpg

    img_1901pgshd.jpg

    the small pieces for back ready polished and then glued together

    img_1902lusk6.jpg

    With the sidewalls exactly the same, all edges polished

    img_1903l5szz.jpg

    img_1904bvsu8.jpg

    the Avexir neckline satin finish.
    I hope you can imagine how long it takes all this take?

    img_1905mws7i.jpg

    Okay, as expected, there was the cable laid course but a damage to the paint, mainly the outer edge.
    So I had a good piece again completely wrap in foil to be painted around the defects in.
    With a paintbrush unfortunately dissolving the color and pushes only the paint down again and a white pen does not have the same color as my paint.

    img_19084jsco.jpg

    Who's always there? :P

    img_190961sj9.jpg

    Then came the worst part: remove the foil!
    Now I had to with the utmost care all behind moving sanding dust and the polishing paste to remove without scratching the Plexiglas. The glossy black is there really sensitive.

    img_1912h4s4f.jpg

    so now that all plates were cleaned, I also stick to one another

    img_1913aps1f.jpg

    img_1914jdssx.jpg

    Next we went to the upper side parts

    img_1919cnsqp.jpg

    I had last year already two logos cut from 3mm Plexiglas and polished.
    This I have now glued to the side wall

    img_1920jxs46.jpg

    only times exactly aligned the logos and then taken up with tape so that they can no longer from slipping

    img_1921dzssg.jpg

    Then measured the positions on the front and set with tape guide lines

    img_1922yas65.jpg

    then made the adhesive on the logos and adhered to the front

    img_1924i8s1t.jpg

    and now again: how I start already said, I have the dice all have slightly rearranged so they do not look so boring cubes.
    How do you like that ? :crazy:

    img_1925bvskd.jpg

    img_1929opsk3.jpg

    have been doing mostly oriented at me 15 °

    img_1931uusab.jpg

    well as the sleeves are so rigid I ever had to come up with the 24Pin ATX cable behind the tray little problems around the corner, so I did it briefly bent me a small retainer.
    But this I wanted to make so and so to put a decal of the sponsor there. It fulfills the same a double sense;-)

    img_1933ans56.jpg

    img_1934r4su0.jpg

    This I then glued back on the tray.
    The cable I have so long fixed with an aluminum bracket for the glue to dry.

    img_1937mcs84.jpg



  17. Hello!

    Go on.
    The missing black angle and the coolant has arrived.

    Thank you so on Nanoxia !

    img_0876zuq91.jpg

    img_0886ocqnl.jpg

    img_0888szpst.jpg

    Then we go's, last week I had to paint again the socket because I forgot a hole for the Sata cable .
    Was unfortunately otherwise.
    The weekend incl. Monday I was now fully engaged embarrassed with the electrical system and the cable.
    So first I have optimized cable management of the Cooler Master Silencio and from Riing. All cables cut and soldered an adapter extension cord and sleeved.

    img_16983dklt.jpg

    img_18054qxol.jpg

    then the WS2812B LEDs were glued to the angle in the bottom plate, and soldered wired.

    img_1700lvjmk.jpg

    img_1701l6jct.jpg

    Now it came to the cables for Arduino run and the corresponding components

    img_170361jr0.jpg

    Gradually, therefore everything is finally installed.

    Here, the fan grill with Gosumodz washer and the buzzer behind the PSU

    img_1705fejp3.jpg

    the first cable on Arduino

    img_1707spkth.jpg

    currently it looks quite empty from the bottom but that will come

    img_17094wkn8.jpg

    to avoid unnecessary cables and adapters in the ground I built distribution stations for Molex and fan.

    img_1744o8kfk.jpg

    img_1748o1jl3.jpg

    the solder points still ground because I have unfortunately only one centimeter square down there

    img_1752krkg9.jpg

    and even a tape over it
    That way, once 6x 12V and 5V for the Arduino and the power supply

    img_17555wjxc.jpg

    The Molex distributor of the way, then depends directly on the power supply

    img_1759rpk29.jpg

    img_1761j6kuj.jpg

    I need the Arduino and their components with 2 different power sources feed since the ultrasonic sensor (or another part) otherwise causes a feedback
    and the entire alarm system unable to work as they should, or permanently starts.

    In the base were put out of top analog RGBW LEDs which then illuminate the white Plexiglas and the interior.

    img_1763ejjxo.jpg

    img_1766cmjjx.jpg

    img_1767t3jea.jpg

    img_1773xkk18.jpg

    so gradually it is taking shape

    img_1778jsk1k.jpg

    img_17807ljt6.jpg

    Now I put the cable and sleeve for the mainboard supply

    img_1781b7jiu.jpg

    since the crimping tool is not worth much I had to again solder all pins

    img_1784w5aax.jpg

    img_1785pcbyo.jpg

    and then slide into the sleevs

    img_1788ytzeo.jpg

    Now I have only times the pinout of the Cooler Master listed cord and plug away because you can not buy the 10Pin and 18pin.

    img_1791wgl5i.jpg

    and so it looks like

    img_1793ssayf.jpg

    in the ground no place for sleevs remains why look down just short out be sleeved.
    But since they are quite rigid I from bottom still Combs glued through which the cables can be laid at right angles.

    These Combs I recently sawed from a faulty milling. Since the router is broken.
    The I could now make good use for these purposes.

    img_1800t0yh2.jpg

    img_1802cel8f.jpg

    here's the difference

    img_18036xx5m.jpg

    img_1804f4au8.jpg

    Slowly I should have thought of everything in the base, so I work my way slowly upward.

    Now it was only clean the Plexiglas and where necessary edge polish satin finishing or.

    Unfortunately, I had eventually ruined me with a dirty drill or screw the threaded and could also clean the threads

    befor
    img_18127ha05.jpg
    after
    img_1813ttl41.jpg

    img_18158hbwf.jpg

    img_1819w2a3y.jpg

    :rolleyes:

    img_1821zjzv3.jpg

    img_1822czyhe.jpg

    img_1829fpyaf.jpg

    the cable for the SSD still drawn

    img_183404lmy.jpg



    I want to put the 4 PCIe cables directly from the GPUs in the PSU, I now unfortunately become aware that I have released there only 2 slots.
    I could arrange that I get a Cooler Master V850 or the like. Unfortunately, until next week, but that's why I'm still going to continue to move the Main board cable.

    The V750 that I have now left I will soon be giving away on Facebook, I think when reaching the next favorite brand.
    The finish is excellent and keeps bomb. That would be unique Made by CapTen: D

    The second charge cable Combs are also arrived yesterday from my cousin that I have now again deburring and clean: sad:

    Next update coming ..... :P

    • Upvote 1

  18. Love modding community!

    We are approaching the last update´s.
    Since the completion date ever closer moves I have somewhat neglected the worklogs, sorry.

    So I will summarize again the whole structure of the Arduino.
    The following components are installed, starting from the top left, so how to write.

    img_1347hwk5s.jpg

    Stepper Motor 28BYJ-48
    Driver ULN2003
    Acoustic sensor HC SR04
    90db buzzer
    keypad
    Arduino Nano
    infrared receiver
    capacitor 1000 microfarad
    Resistances 470 Ohm
    div. Pins Connectors
    Digital RGB LED Strip WS2812B
    remote

    What is it doing?
    -The Engine opens and closes the door in the base.
    Can be optional by the remote control or the keypad open close.
    LEDs in the base plate signal Orangenes light signal (flashing)

    -The Acoustic sensor covers the entire window and generates an alarm as soon as the window is touched.
    LEDs in the bottom panel lights red, buzzer sounds

    -The PC will be on the keypad start and reseten

    - Via the keypad and the remote control can be programmed to start different light games

    The Arduino is thus fully occupied. :wink:
    In February I program a little crash course in Arduino occupied and now use the following sketch, which I have partly written himself or adapted to my needs.

    CODE:





    #include "Stepper.h"
    #include "Keypad.h"
    #include "IRremote.h"
    #include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>
    #ifdef __AVR__
    #include <avr/power.h>
    #include "FastLED.h"
    /*----- Variables, Pins -----*/
    #define DATA_PIN    A4
    #define LED_TYPE    WS2812B
    #define COLOR_ORDER GRB
    #define NUM_LEDS    120
    CRGB leds[NUM_LEDS];
    #define BRIGHTNESS          250
    #define FRAMES_PER_SECOND  120
    #endif
    #define PIN A6 //power
    #define PIN A7 //reset
    #define PIN A4 //RGBs
    #define STEPS  32   // Number of steps per revolution of Internal shaft
    int  Steps2Take;  // 2048 = 1 Revolution
    int receiver = A5; // Signal Pin of IR receiver to Arduino Digital Pin 12
    int trigPin = 10;
    int echoPin = 11;
    int buzzer = 12;
    int power = A6;
    int reset = A7;
    /*-----( Declare objects )-----*/
    // Setup of proper sequencing for Motor Driver Pins
    // In1, In2, In3, In4 in the sequence 1-3-2-4
    Stepper small_stepper(STEPS, A0, A2, A1, A3);
    IRrecv irrecv(receiver);    // create instance of 'irrecv'
    decode_results results;     // create instance of 'decode_results'
    Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(120, A4, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);
    //Deklarationen Keypad
    const byte numRows = 4; //number of rows on the keypad
    const byte numCols = 4; //number of columns on the keypad
    //keymap defines the key pressed according to the row and columns just as appears on the keypad
    char keymap[numRows][numCols] =
    {
      {'1', '2', '3', 'A'},
      {'4', '5', '6', 'B'},
      {'7', '8', '9', 'C'},
      {'*', '0', '#', 'D'}
    };
    //Hier die richtigen Pins eintragen!!! Anschlussgrafik gibt es z.B. hier http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/Arduino-keypad-circuit.php
    byte rowPins[numRows] = {9, 8, 7, 6};
    byte colPins[numCols] = {5, 4, 3, 2};
    //initializes an instance of the Keypad class
    Keypad myKeypad = Keypad(makeKeymap(keymap), rowPins, colPins, numRows, numCols);
    
    void setup()
    {
      irrecv.enableIRIn(); // Start the receiver
      pinMode(trigPin, OUTPUT);
      pinMode(echoPin, INPUT);
      pinMode(buzzer, OUTPUT);
      pinMode(power, OUTPUT);
      pinMode(reset, OUTPUT);
      // tell FastLED about the LED strip configuration
      FastLED.addLeds<LED_TYPE, DATA_PIN, COLOR_ORDER>(leds, NUM_LEDS).setCorrection(TypicalLEDStrip);
      // set master brightness control
      FastLED.setBrightness(BRIGHTNESS);
      strip.begin();
      strip.show(); // Initialize all pixels to 'off'
    }
    // List of patterns to cycle through.  Each is defined as a separate function below.
    typedef void (*SimplePatternList[])();
    SimplePatternList gPatterns = { sinelon,};
    uint8_t gCurrentPatternNumber = 0; // Index number of which pattern is current
    uint8_t gHue = 0; // rotating "base color" used by many of the patterns ,0white,250red,100green,150blue
    
    void loop()
    {
      char keypressed = myKeypad.getKey(); //Tastedruck am Keypad erfassen
      if (keypressed == 'A')
        motorLaufen(8700);
      if (keypressed == 'B')
        motorLaufen(-8700);
      if (keypressed == '1')
        colorWipe(strip.Color(127, 127, 127), 30); // White
      if (keypressed == '*')
        digitalWrite(power, HIGH );
      digitalWrite(power, LOW );
      if (keypressed == '#')
        digitalWrite(reset, HIGH );
      digitalWrite(reset, LOW );
    
      if (irrecv.decode(&results)) {
        if (results.value == 16761405) // forward pressed
          motorLaufen(8700);
        if (results.value == 16712445) // backwards pressed
          motorLaufen(-8700);
        if (results.value == 16738455) // taste 0
          colorWipe(strip.Color(127, 127, 127), 30); // White
        if (results.value == 16724175) // taste 1
          colorWipe(strip.Color(0, 255, 0), 30); // Green
        if (results.value == 16718055)//taste 2
          theaterChase(strip.Color(127, 127, 127), 1000); // White
        if (results.value == 16743045) //taste 3
          colorWipe(strip.Color( 255, 100, 0), 30); // Orange
        if (results.value == 16716015)//taste 4
          colorWipe(strip.Color( 255, 0, 0), 30); // red
        if (results.value == 16726215)//taste 5
          theaterChase(strip.Color(0, 255, 0), 500); // Green
        if (results.value == 16734885)//taste 6
          theaterChase(strip.Color(0, 0, 255), 1000); // Blue
    
        if (results.value == 16728765)//taste 7
          colorWipe(strip.Color(0, 0, 255), 30); // blue
    
        if (results.value == 16730805)//taste 8
          theaterChase(strip.Color(255, 0, 0), 100); // Red
    
        if (results.value == 16732845)//taste 9
          theaterChase(strip.Color(255, 100, 0), 1000); // Orange
    
        if (results.value == 16769055)//taste EQ
          rainbow(20);
    
        if (results.value == 16748655)//taste vol +
          rainbowCycle(10);
    
        if (results.value == 16754775)//taste vol -
          theaterChaseRainbow(50);
    
        if (results.value == 16753245)//taste Power
          // Call the current pattern function once, updating the 'leds' array
        {  gPatterns[gCurrentPatternNumber]();
        // send the 'leds' array out to the actual LED strip
        FastLED.show();
        // insert a delay to keep the framerate modest
        FastLED.delay(1000 / FRAMES_PER_SECOND);
        }
        if (results.value == 16736925)//taste Mode
          rainbow(20);
        if (results.value == 16769565)//taste Mute
          rainbow(20);
        if (results.value == 16720605)//taste Pause
          rainbow(20);
        if (results.value == 16750695)//taste gehe zurück
          rainbow(20);
        if (results.value == 16756815)//taste U/SD
          rainbow(20);
      }
      if (millis() % 10 == 0)
      { long duration, distance;
        digitalWrite(trigPin, LOW);
        digitalWrite(trigPin, HIGH);
        digitalWrite(trigPin, LOW);
        duration = pulseIn(echoPin, HIGH);
        distance = (duration / 2) / 29.1;
        if (distance < 40) {
          digitalWrite(buzzer, HIGH );
          theaterChase1(strip.Color(255, 0, 0), 100); // Red
          strip.show();
        }
        else {
          digitalWrite(buzzer, LOW );
        }
        if (distance > 200) {
          Serial.println("Out of range");
        }
        if (distance < 0) {
          Serial.println("Out of Range");
        }
      }
    }
    
    /* --end main loop -- */
    void motorLaufen(int mSteps) {
      theaterChase(strip.Color(255, 100, 0), 1000); // Orange
      small_stepper.setSpeed(1000);
      Steps2Take  =  mSteps;  // Rotate CCW
      small_stepper.step(Steps2Take);
      irrecv.resume(); // receive the next value
      strip.show();
      MotorAus();
    }
    void MotorAus ()
    {
      digitalWrite(A0, LOW);
      digitalWrite(A1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(A2, LOW);
      digitalWrite(A3, LOW);
    }
    // Fill the dots one after the other with a color
    void colorWipe(uint32_t c, uint8_t wait) {
      for (uint16_t i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i++) {
        strip.setPixelColor(i, c);
        strip.show();
        delay(wait);
      }
      irrecv.resume();
    }
    //Theatre-style crawling lights.
    void theaterChase(uint32_t c, uint8_t wait) {
      for (int j = 0; j < 10; j++) { //do 10 cycles of chasing
        for (int q = 0; q < 2; q++) {
          for (uint16_t i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i = i + 2) {
            strip.setPixelColor(i + q, c);  //turn every third pixel on
          }
          strip.show();
          delay(wait);
          for (uint16_t i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i = i + 2) {
            strip.setPixelColor(i + q, 0);      //turn every third pixel off
          }
        }
      }
      irrecv.resume();
    }
    //Theatre-style crawling lights.
    void theaterChase1(uint32_t c, uint8_t wait) {
      for (int j = 0; j < 2; j++) { //do 10 cycles of chasing
        for (int q = 0; q < 2; q++) {
          for (uint16_t i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i = i + 2) {
            strip.setPixelColor(i + q, c);  //turn every third pixel on
          }
          strip.show();
          delay(wait);
          for (uint16_t i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i = i + 2) {
            strip.setPixelColor(i + q, 0);      //turn every third pixel off
          }
        }
      }
      irrecv.resume();
    }
    void rainbow(uint8_t wait) {
      uint16_t i, j;
    
      for (j = 0; j < 256; j++) {
        for (i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i++) {
          strip.setPixelColor(i, Wheel((i + j) & 255));
        }
        strip.show();
        delay(wait);
      }
      irrecv.resume();
    }
    // Slightly different, this makes the rainbow equally distributed throughout
    void rainbowCycle(uint8_t wait) {
      uint16_t i, j;
      for (j = 0; j < 256 * 5; j++) { // 5 cycles of all colors on wheel
        for (i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i++) {
          strip.setPixelColor(i, Wheel(((i * 256 / strip.numPixels()) + j) & 255));
        }
        strip.show();
        delay(wait);
      }
      irrecv.resume();
    }
    //Theatre-style crawling lights with rainbow effect
    void theaterChaseRainbow(uint8_t wait) {
      for (int j = 0; j < 256; j++) {   // cycle all 256 colors in the wheel
        for (int q = 0; q < 3; q++) {
          for (uint16_t i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i = i + 3) {
            strip.setPixelColor(i + q, Wheel( (i + j) % 255)); //turn every third pixel on
          }
          strip.show();
    
          delay(wait);
    
          for (uint16_t i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i = i + 3) {
            strip.setPixelColor(i + q, 0);      //turn every third pixel off
          }
        }
      }
      irrecv.resume();
    }
    // Input a value 0 to 255 to get a color value.
    // The colours are a transition r - g - b - back to r.
    uint32_t Wheel(byte WheelPos) {
      WheelPos = 255 - WheelPos;
      if (WheelPos < 85) {
        return strip.Color(255 - WheelPos * 3, 0, WheelPos * 3);
      }
      if (WheelPos < 170) {
        WheelPos -= 85;
        return strip.Color(0, WheelPos * 3, 255 - WheelPos * 3);
      }
      WheelPos -= 170;
      return strip.Color(WheelPos * 3, 255 - WheelPos * 3, 0);
    }
    void sinelon()
    {
      // a colored dot sweeping back and forth, with fading trails
      fadeToBlackBy( leds, NUM_LEDS, 20);
      int pos = beatsin16(8, 0, NUM_LEDS); //speed,start-stop,
      leds[pos] += CHSV( gHue, 0, 192); // gHue,Multicolor 0=whit 255=rainbow fade ,Bightness
    }


     

    In this arrangement, I then soldered everything

    img_1351ljjf5.jpg

    As a mounting a small glass box cut and glued

    img_1421cmjr5.jpg

    img_1634zrkde.jpg

    and it screwed the Arduino

    img_163528k93.jpg

    img_16369yko1.jpg

    img_16373vjzr.jpg

    Now I have the Avexir Raiden still match the color, the small caps were painted in tone

    img_1638lnj0u.jpg

    img_1640e7kcz.jpg

    and sides covered with foil, a paint was here too risky because of color flake or run behind

    img_1641b4jj1.jpg

    and they now look

    img_5153hjpxp.jpg

    other day I finally found a suitable Bending Kit with which I was satisfied so I could put the last pipe penetrations and end the piping

    img_1642mtk54.jpg

    img_1643duke6.jpg

    img_1644l4jdx.jpg

    was again a lot of fun :D

    img_16557kkye.jpg

    and so I had imagined the whole

    img_1656bjkh5.jpg

    img_1659f4kul.jpg

    In the base I have tried a lot, unfortunately I forgot the picture from the final state to shoot, now everything is disassembled again.
    The chrome angle be exchanged for black, next week should be there

    img_165746jou.jpg

    The motherboard tray is illuminated from above, unfortunately I found no U-profile in the proposed material thickness, so I had to saw off the little tray

    img_1660aej26.jpg

    The U-profile even liked it so angular not so I have it adapted to the case shape and the front slightly rounded

    img_16614wj6v.jpg

    The exhaust air under the PSU I had already cut but not considered that the angles from the base this still obscure, so I had here even adjust something

    img_1663u2o82.jpg

    img_16648nrfo.jpg

    Now I started to put all the necessary holes for the Arduino and the pump

    img_16656sr7a.jpg

    Here the buzzer behind the PSU

    img_166619p0f.jpg

    and the keypad

    img_16678tr5b.jpg

    for the Acoustic sensor still set the holes for the adjustment, M1, screw and taps are on the way

    img_1668ytr3k.jpg

    determines only the position of the SSD with the illuminated Tron and set the holes

    img_16695jobg.jpg

    The entire motherboard tray will be screwed to the base

    img_1670f7pwb.jpg

    Now it went last week to the painting, everything cleaned only once sanded and painted with aluminum primer

    img_1671dpo6g.jpg

    img_1672k5qsh.jpg

    now even more layers follow White with intermediate sanding and div Filling work

    img_1673hyprx.jpg

    img_1689f3pvo.jpg

    img_1690eapud.jpg

    and ready

    img_1691olptp.jpg

    the pump bottom was painted in silver

    img_16921tp9n.jpg

    img_1693fnplt.jpg

    I now began to talk slowly with the assembling of, here a look under the PSU

    img_5208k4on5.jpg

    img_5211pir1y.jpg

    But there were other problems,
    As I have planned a special cable laying, I try to find someone already since 3 months of my cable Combs in Gosu style milled but no company is a vector file to convert to a 4mm Large Hole able.
    At my cousin the oil pump its CNC is broken, so I had only one choice, I was last weekend 15h even stand at the CNC and oiling the cutters in 5min clock.

    Here times the location (a dream)

    img_5191hhurr.jpg

    and so then it started

    img_51878gubs.jpg

    it was the boring, 12 h later

    img_5198sbu58.jpg

    at home arrived from Munich back in Pforzheim, I was able to everything deburring by hand and clean.
    I fetched from the street me some gravel. then the Combs shaken of a while to just not having to grind the inside

    img_1695bvu7d.jpg

    However, the peaks were in clover leaf so acute that I had it all yet deburring by hand

    img_1696mgu2x.jpg

    from the outside, I have everything sanded with 600 paper

    img_1697ekuz0.jpg

    and everything still manually cleaned with cleaner and then with alcohol

    img_5203xxuwq.jpg

    img_52050qu3z.jpg

    That's bad, that's only half of Combs that I need but I would not make it this weekend, only 3h sleep and the Case I also wanted to work on.
    The whole deburring and clean took me all Sunday and the Gosumodz Aliance Combs still look better: P.

    In any case I can finally begin the connection wiring and just have all plexiglass edge polishing or burnishing.
     
    We have on Monday again a holiday, I think by then I will make good progress. :D

    • Upvote 1

  19. Thank you :wink:

     

    Hi guys!

    So "Nanoxia investigated the Super Modder" is over and I can concentrate fully on Lightglass again.

    After some problems with the customs duty I could pick last week even the memory.

    So a huge thank you to

    avexir2jsr7.jpg

    I can not decide which photos are best, so here's all me, unfortunately. :wink:

    img_1531pyu41.jpg

    img_1540kdufe.jpg

    img_154243u9l.jpg

    img_1530jyutt.jpg

    img_1536qiug5.jpg

    img_15390nua3.jpg

    img_1545qcus7.jpg

    img_1523x5u0f.jpg

    img_1525g7uwi.jpg

    img_1528zmux6.jpg

    img_1529lyu24.jpg

    this then came another SSD new Avexir S100 Series

    img_1623dysjq.jpg

    img_1625bxs26.jpg

    img_16303ksd8.jpg

    img_1631qns9o.jpg

    Since I have been waiting for a while on this package, I had prepared for it, the sliding door.

    As patterns I have a print out a label and logo cut with the scroll saw, all cut edges just filed and satin.

    Behind then come white Plexiglass so the Avexir Logo completely illuminated.

    img_1365yru3i.jpg

    img_1368u4uhc.jpg

    So, more updates coming soon :)


  20. Hi!

    I was last week, unfortunately, every day for my individual Cabelcombs and backplates stickers go.
    Parallel comes shortly a new project added which cost me too much time.

    As I said recently, I had adapted and completed some things already in color, but I have you do not even shown.
    Here times an image of the PSU, the CM Silencio, the Thermaltake Riing, EK radiator Conditions holders, and two logos from 3mm Plexiglas are that found on the front of the case, above and below the Riing their place.

    img_13370yu4i.jpg

    Some of the routes have been worth last week and I could make the backplates completed.

    img_13828cu1q.jpg

    img_1383fous7.jpg

    img_138950ug0.jpg

    img_1390xou6e.jpg

    and here the short instruction on how I manage that.
    First I had to create a vector file to let me cut a foil.

    vector4ausr.jpg

    then I cut two satin Plexiglas plates and set the holes

    img_1295nour9.jpg

    img_1296kpukr.jpg

    When the Foil was finally finished I was allowed only once weeding everything

    img_1352rtuxc.jpg

    and could then glue the transfer film on it, the whole then positioned on the backplates and mounted on the GPUs.

    img_1353ziuet.jpg

    From the front of the base I cut the hole for the keypad and set the grommet behind

    img_1374mnu4j.jpg

    img_1375uxuao.jpg

    img_1376yku1c.jpg

    img_1377wluqw.jpg

    img_1378nquk5.jpg

    img_1379ueu90.jpg

    From Midplate I started to put the pipe penetrations and PCIe cable holes
    Are me really, really well done I think.

    frontsite
    img_1342l2u4q.jpg
    backsite

    img_134317uhn.jpg

    img_1344k7usb.jpg

    For feedthroughs I used a cone drill

    img_1345rnuw3.jpg

    My IO cover I built again yesterday.
    I have not considered the one considers the case of most of the top, because then you can see the first THIS XD

    img_1355gnqw5.jpg

    So I went again from the beginning and was also equal to make a few changes.
    a piece of aluminum sheet metal cut and folded

    img_1358y9rrq.jpg

    smoothed with Alu Kit

    img_1362a8qsw.jpg

    here's the comparison to the last!
    A little wider but much Space'iger :D

    img_1367kwqzl.jpg

    then some other things:
    The Small 2mm PCI slot bracket was slightly too thick so I've exchanged with a 1mm steel cover

    img_13646jbro.jpg

    The Monsoon Bending Kit you can not really use it for 16er tubes, there are large footprints on the inside of the tubes because the tubes Monsoon only 15.9mm in size.
    This a millimeter makes really a lot. The bent tube acts otherwise almost angular.
    So I next to my larger form (8cm radius) 2 small built me with 2.5cm radius
    be repeatedly painted

    img_1366xuxmm.jpg

    So more updates soon

    • Upvote 1


  21. So now equal to the next update.
    At every turn preceded's :D

    For the cable entry in Mainboardtray I made 2 cover for the 24 pin cable.
    The first I forgot to photograph completely, so the photos are somewhat mixed.

    img_1291nlums.jpg

    img_12909lu8p.jpg

    img_1293x2ue5.jpg

    then over Easter we went to the SLI-bridge and an IO Cover.
    I once got a bit ALU folded and then came to this result

    img_1285xdu7p.jpg

    img_1286mkuj5.jpg

    img_12874eu4v.jpg

    img_128831ujd.jpg

    I found a little boring so I've glued a 2mm strip

    img_1289m3u3t.jpg

    canted The IO cover first after a rough sketch

    img_12834punv.jpg

    img_1284ddu3p.jpg

    img_12922cuvy.jpg

    unfortunately it was with GPU backplate but too tight so I had to saw off the lower portion

    img_1335dbunv.jpg

    painted in silver, then a little foil and a few stickers

    img_133642uow.jpg

    Here are 2 cover on the GPUs are screwed so that the weight is not completely seated on the Plexiglas

    img_117247uds.jpg

    img_1173cbu85.jpg

    all holes set thread cutting and trying on

    img_1175xkuhg.jpg

    img_1176xvuan.jpg

    I then painted along with the PCI slot brackets.
    The slot covers I have previously still straightened

    img_1327w9ui9.jpg

    img_1332vauye.jpg

    even if you do not see but that had to be xD

    img_13332wugi.jpg

    After I had installed recently by the PSU I noticed that the angle of blocking the whole view so I cut the angle in the range of sliding door with a Flex

    img_1314rwutd.jpg

    like it :wink:

    img_1315wfuop.jpg

    Then I once casually a bending mold for the radius I Need manufactured,

    img_131602ua0.jpg

    From 4 feet were. 6
    The bottom plate hung but centrally through quite a bit.
    Even if it is bolted to the base later, I want to play it safe

    img_131839ubl.jpg

    The whole week I was busy putting large part with holes.
    Here the implementation behind the motherboard-tray in the base

    img_1298g2u2m.jpg

    from there, we go into the base plate and then back out to the PSU.
    So there was only time to draw a lot and graining ago

    img_1319upuiz.jpg

    because I could not work with the drill press here I drilled the M4 holes with M3

    img_1321kau6o.jpg

    and then with M4, everything slightly lowered and grinded

    img_1328cju9u.jpg

    here would be even a few different views
    from the rear

    img_13297huqu.jpg

    on top of the PSU which is already painted here (more photos of them come :wink:

    img_1330jsuzy.jpg

    under the PSU I have put into the base plate nor a fan opening so that the airflow in the base is also reasonably available

    img_1331zuuzk.jpg

    that's it again for now. Up soon:D


  22. Hi guys!

    Sorry I'm already so late, it has done so a lot but everything i can not post this time.
    So I'll start with the most beautiful.
    Last week I ordered the CPU and thus could finally assemble all water cooler.

    img_1242an1sax.jpg

    img_1243a05sbq.jpg

    The Alibi Photo! :wink:

    img_1245a7sc7.jpg

    and now the water cooler

    img_12547nsn5.jpg

    img_1255ibsip.jpg

    img_1260u5sl9.jpg

    img_126433sm7.jpg

    img_1277vbs0n.jpg

    After I finally received the last parts of EK, I could set the bracket for the radiator.
    Is to see the images badly but I have behind the 3 fan openings set again 2 angles which carry the Radiator.

    img_1226tasgm.jpg

    img_1227gosg0.jpg
    front
    img_1228peskj.jpg
    bottom
    img_1229mgsww.jpg
    rear
    img_1230ynsb5.jpg
    top
    img_1231x2squ.jpg

    then I have set all the necessary holes in the MB-tray

    img_1232f2syy.jpg

    img_12359gsob.jpg

    Here I have the ultrasonic sensor mounted, did not think that I can do that right away but it fits perfectly.
    How do I fix or him from below fasten I do not know. The holes at the edge of the sensor are less than one Millimeter.

    img_1236wts0n.jpg

    img_1237j7scu.jpg

    img_12384qsli.jpg

    from the front I had to cut out a little more so that I can shove the sensor from the bottom.

    img_12398vs7q.jpg


    And here still equal to a small test video to



    More updates coming soon, I have still a lot :thumbsup:
    • Upvote 1

  23. Hey guys!

    Middle of last week, the last parts arrived for water cooling.
    Unfortunately, I am not to photograph unpack and got away, but here's a little look in the package!

    img_1163hhkxn.jpg


    And yesterday was one more hammer package.

    Thank you very much

    gosu_logohkzb2.png

    let's see what is beautiful in it was!

    img_1207kkjjb.jpg

    img_1209g8jh9.jpg

    img_12162vjld.jpg

    img_1219wdjn4.jpg

    img_1223j4jg8.jpg

    img_1224a1rkgg.jpg

    I find the Sleev´s and Comb´s MEEEEEEGAA!
    This is a fun, I hope have not too much for me made but at least I do not annoy me with the Para Cords . :P

    Now I show you yet what Conditions holder I will now use.
    The first prototype will fit in the size not quite so I built new.
    I cut me a few strips of a Plexiglas tube.

    img_0854rwkr1.jpg

    coarsely being ground

    img_0856tojpe.jpg

    then diagonally cut from 3 cm to 1 cm and satin finish

    img_0971rekpm.jpg

    the thread set and cut the holder of an acrylic rod

    img_1136shjyw.jpg

    img_1137kzki5.jpg

    Now I had to grind to the diameter of the tube feet

    img_11386mks9.jpg

    img_1139w0j48.jpg

    img_11415jks8.jpg

    and because I was once again after I have the whole foot polished yet, satin finishing the cutting edges would have been possible.
    So the whole thing looks from!

    img_1159m3kbq.jpg

    This is perfectly fit the concept and reflect the theme of glass again super.


    many greetings CapTen!

    PS: because it was something!
    Thus, the compensating reservoir does not get scratched come in the Allen screws silicone plugs.
    But I've cut several cartridges peaks and this filled with silicone.
    They were then cured after 2 weeks well that you can pull out the silicone at a time.
    I will then match cut to size to Allen.

    img_09707bk1o.jpg