capten

Members
  • Content Count

    50
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by capten

  1. capten

    "Light Glass"

    Hi guys! Sorry I'm already so late, it has done so a lot but everything i can not post this time. So I'll start with the most beautiful. Last week I ordered the CPU and thus could finally assemble all water cooler. The Alibi Photo! and now the water cooler After I finally received the last parts of EK, I could set the bracket for the radiator. Is to see the images badly but I have behind the 3 fan openings set again 2 angles which carry the Radiator. front bottom rear top then I have set all the necessary holes in the MB-tray Here I have the ultrasonic sensor mounted, did not think that I can do that right away but it fits perfectly. How do I fix or him from below fasten I do not know. The holes at the edge of the sensor are less than one Millimeter. from the front I had to cut out a little more so that I can shove the sensor from the bottom. And here still equal to a small test video to More updates coming soon, I have still a lot :thumbsup:
  2. capten

    "Light Glass"

    Hey guys! Middle of last week, the last parts arrived for water cooling. Unfortunately, I am not to photograph unpack and got away, but here's a little look in the package! And yesterday was one more hammer package. Thank you very much let's see what is beautiful in it was! I find the Sleev´s and Comb´s MEEEEEEGAA! This is a fun, I hope have not too much for me made but at least I do not annoy me with the Para Cords . Now I show you yet what Conditions holder I will now use. The first prototype will fit in the size not quite so I built new. I cut me a few strips of a Plexiglas tube. coarsely being ground then diagonally cut from 3 cm to 1 cm and satin finish the thread set and cut the holder of an acrylic rod Now I had to grind to the diameter of the tube feet and because I was once again after I have the whole foot polished yet, satin finishing the cutting edges would have been possible. So the whole thing looks from! This is perfectly fit the concept and reflect the theme of glass again super. many greetings CapTen! PS: because it was something! Thus, the compensating reservoir does not get scratched come in the Allen screws silicone plugs. But I've cut several cartridges peaks and this filled with silicone. They were then cured after 2 weeks well that you can pull out the silicone at a time. I will then match cut to size to Allen.
  3. capten

    "Light Glass"

    Hi guys! Waow, there have been but a lot of pictures amassed but I wanted to spare you the confusion between the applied coats. So it remains for everyone understandable and comprehensible. How it already provides in the short teaser I had to work in well 3-4 weeks in the Arduino matter. but more on that later Details Their First time at the door! I have adhered two small racks to the aluminum profiles which carries the door and is connected to the shifter. The gear I had to adapt to the motor shaft because the shaft from the engine 28BYJ-48 is oval Then I have a small aluminum angle cut and the engine mounted thereon and this then fixed to the inside of the base Here's a little preview! Now the MB tray I could put the spacers and how should it be otherwise, when screwing the spacer breaks the bolt through and even 2 times the exact same location. The first time she went out without damage, the second time I unfortunately had a slightly deeper slit cut them out then turn with a screwdriver. with the PCI slots on the tray the whole group went further cut roughly only with the scroll saw then everything is still just filed and sanded and somehow I had boredom and got it then also polished;-) Now the rear wall, Here I have only times cut the IO Shield everything fits and now all PCI ports only as much as possible with the scroll saw then everything just grinded but that was a whole piece of work, especially without broken to make what and here everything fits Next we went to the bottom plate. It is then responsible for the lighting effect of the digital LEDs. Should only be a bonus LITTLE me but a whole week and 3 Calls has yet tasted. So do not be surprised if in between suddenly another Plexiglas is processed. First time I cut 3cm strips, initially straight, and later the same at 45 degrees which were then adapted to the bottom plate mitred and bonded together cut the cover plate Holes set everything sanded, trimmed and satin finish again separately the 3 parts here and so the result looks on the inside I also cut aluminum angles on miter and screwed in the soil the usual procedure, put holes, lowering, thread cutting Here it then the LEDs are glued on it goes with a small lesson in dealing with stainless steel. As feet 4 (evtl. Stainless Ronde be with a piece of steel rod used. Unfortunately, the steel was so scratched that I had to refresh it again. Left side to the original state my work right. the backs I have accordingly rounded and polished with 240 touches then cut the rod and set the holes. Here is still a thread cut around the feet equal from top to screw with together with the base plate Now I have made a small aperture for the front fan! See for yourself! Scroll saw, filing grinding and satin finishing One small thing but would still I think that's enough for now. Is there then the next time!
  4. capten

    "Light Glass"

    Here finally the photos of the hardware ! The MSI Z170 Titanium Edition motherboard and 2 MSI GTX 970 GD5T OC graphics Cards.
  5. capten

    "Der Zwerg" aka "The Dwarf"

    go on. As always, nothing went according to plan, but what would life be if everything works always. XD So, at first I have to R9 NANO Gpu Cooler installed with backplate. For that I had to cut from 5mm to 3mm spacers this I have attached with superglue Now I was able to AMD R9 Nano disassembled then everything properly cleaned applied thermal pads and paste After that, everything is screwed together and forgot to take a picture. xD The PCIe cable had to be edited so you can not see the cut ends, I cut an end cap of a Satakabel and it glued As a back panel as I had at first described times, a completely white acrylic panel, which indeed 0.5cm was too small. I've recently completed a in the right size but ordered the wrong color chosen. That was frosted glass. So surely it should remain in to the small disk. But fate sometimes do not want to play. Shortly after I had laboriously polished all cut edges, I wanted the screw a little wide. This course went well in the first 3s but the fourth did not want to. wonderful, all the work for nothing, so I had to take the frosted glass, as the case next week to go back to Cooler Master again. As you can see in the photos later this decision was not so wrong. So here now polished the edges again and set all screw holes. Here is the chaos from behind! But sense this photo is the Chrome rim on the front which I already had So the wait is over! Here are finally the finals Images! First, a few glances around the Case Yes unbelievable but the Windows is on it Some stickers are not for everyone, but you know this is a Showcase which is taken next year on several events and there it is advantageous from a distance and each side to see what it is here. Oh I forgot to mention. The CPU-holder and the lid I've at some point painted white and the CPU-screws black. White lighting I've also thrown in a remote control with dimmer. Relatively cheaper than a handsome Switch so and here the insights into the deep heart of DWARF! :-) I hereby wish you all a very merry Christmas, happy holidays and a Happy New Year
  6. capten

    "Der Zwerg" aka "The Dwarf"

    Hello! Go on. The GPU cooler has arrived this week, A picture is worth a thousand words believe the package is not yet final, everything does not fit properly, was rather just crammed. but a vacuum-packed cooler: so after I had ordered material to create a beautiful backplate to manufacture (aluminum and various screws) I wanted to run some tests on an old side part before. then I got this idea right up my alley! (why not I got the idea already in my table?) So the LEDs only times so placed that they are no screws in the way. then set the cutout in the glass hobbyist and everything still matted then everything coated with silicone and clamped in clamps, Here is a picture with the 140s Fan and here, right glued one with the decorative trims on the IO panel This weekend I'm going to paint the backplate and see how far I'll then nor with the integrated GPU.
  7. capten

    "Light Glass"

    Hy , Friday finally came my long-awaited package! Here the first snapshots: :love: more Details comming soon:D
  8. capten

    "Der Zwerg" aka "The Dwarf"

    As already mentioned , we finally get a GPU . Thanks so on who agreed to make our project a AMD Radeon R9 Nano available, without which it would have been Unable to complete the project,because the space for the GPU is severely restricted. That reminds me only the remaining watercooling components are missing here are some pictures of R9 Nano: Here is the comparison with a AMD Radeon HD7970 GHZ Somewhere we could still muster a white 140s Coolermaster fan, which I also installed more. have a few images found so the beta is completed, now only the GPU needs to be integrated into the circuit.
  9. capten

    "Der Zwerg" aka "The Dwarf"

    2 Week´s later lets go on: All cover were covered with foil I need about 90 minutes even if I am less satisfied with the quality I find the idea of lace I had experimented a Little with Cover for the IO-Shield what comes here? I transferred the Asrock Design on all Cover Now I need a new cover, which previously sat the DVD drive, most parts I cut with the Dremel, since does not change the width and the blade is too wide ,I did it so was quite a fumbling, the clip function should be preserved,So I could not cut away more of the clip. To get to the measure ,I had to take away from the frame struts still half then everything is fixed with tape and glued with epoxy glue back together the grid felt the same way, first cut then folded again match That was my only way to take over the honeycomb design, I find it even better than the original. So, then I had to think of something for the handle, the views of the radiator looked only half-finished. So here some acrylic glass cut and bent (determined 4x) I would have greater no longer get it in, but one side of it still could see the whites from the housing interior, I remained quite the grille style: Here I've been the film it and it should then be glued from the inside the dust still attached with superglue like me who wants it detail pictures must only screaming This whole black and white contrast mach photographing really not easy. Now the worst, The Mainboard cooler was not particularly successful in Vienna, and remained the paint on the tape hanging and you could see the red anodized next to the label. As I moved into the cover with foil I got the cooler just down time in Nitro thinner and let time work for me. it came as it should, I could take out the cooler then blank again, even better, the label broke up what I could even now working in two colors. then the cooler were given a bath in drain cleaner and after a short time was all Blank from the surface liked the cooler not particularly polished I have sometimes a portion, but not really suited for Mod / Mainboard So painting as planned The letters I have stuck to tape so they do not fly away while spraying saw only times from chic but also has not really worked. When removing paint has flaked from Chrome and looked even after fine grinding still made unclean.(had imagined shiny outer edges) So again in Nitro Bath and down with the color a two days later jumped me to bed a shining point ?! I did not know that there was a point for the O XD ok, cooler painted white, scuttle the handle also'm slipped with the Dremel. Now came the hardest part, it Glue the letter again. So I have got it taped a straight line set and it put the parts in position Then I have another piece of tape placed on clean blow to the existing and thus received all the letters so I was able to rake in the back with very very little superglue in peace and then stick the tape back on impact against the other, press briefly and wait and carefully remove both tapes again and ready here again looks like a couple of pictures of it all together: 2 UV Flexlights I also set several times but every time I came home, they were again somewhere in the Case. So I have now fixed with epoxy adhesive. Let's see what's coming refers to at least some of what I write? Sorry there are so many technical terms and my English is rather modest.
  10. capten

    "Der Zwerg" aka "The Dwarf"

    Thanks David, every Mod a new Version Day 3 The last day, I had a lot of plans and A lot of material here which would be processed. ^^ First I built a cover that the whole area should dress next to the motherboard right and Conditions highlighting something. Chic it looked then, and if the first time is Illuminated properly Since the time again just so run away I oriented my goal also mainly in the installation of all components. Then you can still see what we can do. The hardware and the radiators have found their place so it went to the ala Freestyle Hardtubing. Installed CPU Cooler, all connections mounted times and forged with some brainstorming in a team laying plan. Since no 2 16er ports you get on the cooler next to each other we had to work with an offset That reminds me that absolutely did not like, it had to somehow be obscured what I think I also did a good job. The installation plan and their benefits play here again only a secondary role. The right front Radi had to be rotated so that the connections are below and then went off, acrylic tubes turn in front of an audience, it looked masses of people tound and for whatever reason, as I now turned all started already at their booth pack. grrr I have after the last picture even bent the last pipe and also began my stuff to look together and pack really bad, no LEDs installed not Fill Up, I had to refer still black and white film at the Windows. But well, Cooler Master slapped me to finish it before the case take. So the dwarf is now in my living room and waits patiently for completion. Because of course I could not let it stay I've done a lot already since. Many things also liked not at all but let's start simply times to me: one week later The first thing I do not like the radiator bracket from the inside, as everywhere even the mounting points are to be seen for the drive bays. So the thing gets first a cover: Taken and bent into shape dimensions then cut somehow some air should there come through so I could even play something with the routing machine again briefly considered a design and go attack, more than wrong, it can not looks really desolate, the tape was an absolute failure but I like it! The cover is later when all other covers are already covered with white foil. then had to leave the red PCI slots, what are we doing there? COVER! Looking for an 8mm thicknesses board I thought was really just a board sandwiches in my apartment? Incredibly, 2mm polystyrene had to serve for it, then I'll come over / under the Slots still at the transistors / VTs past Yesterday I finally managed to polish the edges of the windows Originally I wanted the window so sticking with film that The manhole is covered below. Since I have the case now here I am building for acrylic Visor The large aperture to the right of the power supply is already finished and have not got a photo from the building. For this to make it better to push in position a small handle fro. The design I have taken from the front a small scrap bent into shape and frosted the area under the power supply also tells me not to, so also tailored for a small aperture From below, I have adhered to the small aperture a small spacer so it does not fall off, and thus to the large aperture a spacer for Radi tray it will not slip backwards. Both with Acrifix, the handle is attached so that later, but only after the film's mood. So now a few nice photos from the current state. Oh, and the M was also part of my preparation, but I do not like, just to much. That comes next disassemble out again. yes the upper Conditions Holder is over wrong. and the NB and SB cooler I also want to again rid of their color and see how it looks without anodising. Remove tape When all the paint stuck to the adhesive tape, which is why we again see a lot of red edges. So I'm hoping for feedback from you, and lots of useful tips and ideas! :thumbsup:
  11. capten

    "Light Glass"

    Oh the current stat is reached. At the Moment i work on a security System for my museum Vitrine (Light Glass). currently I have to correct a few Errors but the next update comming soon. Here a little teaser from the stat. including stepper Motor, IR remote, code Keypad, distance sensor, buzzer, digital RGB Led strip
  12. capten

    "Der Zwerg" aka "The Dwarf"

    First of many thanks to who provided us with an 240GB HyperX 3K SSD and a 8GB HyperX Fury Mermory White Kit available. 2 Weeks before To impart some individuality to the whole project I have experimented before the event a lot and I finally decided on this Reservoirs Holder. I'll show you once briefly what and how I made it: First time I have different acrylic tubes and rods concerned and this then cut with a circular saw on the measure. This was of course at the first attempt wrong, so I had my idea again modify and improvise 2 rings I had already cut, now even 2 sockets that hold the rings and connected to the case, trimmed Now the bearing surface of the base rounded so that the rings may fit in exactly then in the right places holes set and cut thread. All outer edges were also sanded (to 600) and burred. actually the rings should be flush with the base (3cm) but the rings have become a bit too narrow. More material I had not, even if I could grind and polish the base still Conical I do not know what awaits me at the fair, and whether the space is sufficient for ever. that's already, here are some pictures of it Here you can see very well that the holder outer edges to the reservoir and complete the inner side towards the front tapers obliquely, so that the holder does not cover the whole Reservoir So, what happens next you learn soon!
  13. capten

    "Der Zwerg" aka "The Dwarf"

    Tag 2 While we thought about how we adjust the body cover , we have the motherboard cooling removed and prepared for painting . Since I had actually planned the whole day for painting and we were not on schedule just , I do not have long thought and separated the upper part in the form of housing. Because the look reminded me a bit of a DTM Spoiler I smooth left him like that. At the front of the two drive bays were removed and somewhat minimized. I have two parts with epoxy joined together again and later revised even with polyester putty . While we the Case for painting prepared ( degreasing and tape ) many still some small conversion to work . The grommet of the IO panel was no longer available . After a short test as a lot of space of 240 Radiator , I flexed a recess to carry out in the Radi Tray to the cable . Now the IO Panel also did not fit into it and came to the radiator tray in the way , so we had to shorten it somewhat Since we were not allowed to paint the town hall and outside too much was going on , I have dedicated myself to the Windows . The dimensions were determined for us already , so I already had the right Acrylic glass GS sheets at . Opal white back wall and side wall transparent. So I had only put the holes and cut a thread in the housing . Since I had the opal plate nor Dreamy Water left me was no longer clear what degree they had . Unfortunately, it is 0.5 cm too small, I have taught them . Now I have found a quiet place in the open and have primed the Case Then it was dark during the priming and it was much too stormy. We have come quite well with the Security Fortunately , so I simply decided after hours to pack the state in film and painting at City Hall. Really good photos then has probably made ​​no more , it was just we 24.00 clock were all ready , hungry and tired , of course . So let's see what we can achieve in the day 3.
  14. capten

    "Light Glass"

    Here again a little bigger update from me . First I continued working on the SSD tray. Here I made a hole for the LED Stripe. And the mounting holes for the SSD. For the S-Light i cut the angle and painted it. After a long think, i painted the Fans. I hope the color will fit with the color of the mainboard. Now the mask work again, and again. Now the Plastic primer, looks like glitter Spray xD I like it. I already tried two silver tones, but this one i liked more. The 3 Cooler Master Silencio Fans for the Radiator. And here a Thermaltake Riing to get a nice Airflow inside the Case. I disassembled the Fan to paint him without the LED ring. Now i continued the work on the Socket. I cutted out the Cover passt Then put holes, cut thread and screwed. Now it went to the back of the base. For the 360mm Radiator i cutted out 3 holes And i set the holes in the side of the case. Now put all holes for the screws and cut threads The aluminum profiles i had to adjust. The final touches i make when it comes to the paint the same I did with all the other sides . Here I cutted out the power supply opening. and here the white plate . The entire base gets 2x 3mm Plexi . A white plate as a light guide and a black as a cover Here is the all arroung view Where the openings are, the white plate is 3mm smaller than the black one. I’ll polish the edges at the very end. Who knows how many times I’ll break something I’ll edge the overlap later, but still keep an offset, comparable to what I do around the PSU. Here is the cut for the sliding-door’s rail And this is how far you can open the door That’s it for now. I started working on some other details, but due to lack of materials thigns are on hold for now. To keep the log clearly laid out, I’m am going to post about these details once I’m done with them.
  15. capten

    "Light Glass"

    So now again an update . I had still been missing some dice, so I was mostly busy when next to the dwarf was still time. Is really very time-consuming, error does not forgive a so something else must be to start from scratch. so I could finally start all parts together. So all the holes have been drilled and cut thread and then everything bolted together Now I could see the radius exactly on the side parts transfer. this I then Generously cut and attached to the motherboard tray exactly my first mistake has already crept in. I should have put the tray in advance, because the tray pushes the window a little higher and now the left side is cut too short. For Tray I did not shorten. well again, I had a piece of what I've already tried everything possible. So penciled cut with the circular saw and again transmitted the radius and set holes much better now ground and polished sides when I wanted the other side to polish then I noticed this, damn grrr Okay, more Plexi I did not lie around, so order new :thumbdown: Over the holidays, it was a bit stressful, Visiting and often unfocused but I wanted to necessarily move forward The dice front bottom I also misplaced since it still needs the ground purely but not as bad as I already said at the beginning, I'll possibly even collapse later. so now it fits. still just as much space that I can forward obstruct an angle with lighting. I was definitely not idle, incidentally, I have the create clipping masks and convert in DXF files concerned Here are just an alibi image The main reason were the side panels. My original ideas do not fit in. Well, ultimately, I decided for a kind stucco with which the side parts are covered. But then I was able to take the blended plate Saw set on level and off we went for rounding but I had no frosted glass longer there, even at the next order with at. So I have to try it a XT sheets of HB-wood mouse radicals Packetes taken. Here then I could also equal to something work with the scroll saw, and now we were off! All edges bevelled to 45-50 °, it is a mess, there is no vacuum cleaner also helps :whistling: here on the last picture, all edges are finished either already with 400 grit sandpaper. The rods I make again as soon as the glass is there, then I'll stick the strips to the side panels This month I will definitely still the first hardware to buy so that I can finally edit the tray. So, see you soon !
  16. capten

    "Der Zwerg" aka "The Dwarf"

    Lets go: So , first time starting to Vienna,do not ask how , but somehow I get everything into the car . arrived there was of course immediately unpacked and set up "Dreamy Water" survived it again , incredibly , I worried every time . the Cooler Master stand After everything was ready , we unpacked first, of course taken the Master Case 5 Pro under the microscope Day 1 For the conversion into a MATX Case we chose the Case 6cm in length and in height to cut . So was the first the front and rear expanded . But plenty of rivets had to be removed . then was on both parts , well thought out separated 6cm on unimportant points and riveted with deposited metal remains back together now even the Mainboardtray away and also reduced by 6cm Next, it was time to upper, middle and lower part Since we had fairly strict conditions in the town hall , because we had listed all separate with the Dremel and needed for good 10h . The case is made ​​of steel and thus has cost us plenty of cut-off wheels . As repeatedly found live presentations in the stands instead we often had to take breaks because of the noise :fie: Finally, the case looked like this even if it believable almost 20:00 or 21.00 clock was all transitions were still filled with liquid metal , or bonded . late at night then a test with the adhesive base so there are no nasty surprises the next day and again a small view of our booth stand unfortunately there was a problem with the liquid metal , it was not hard. That has cost us valuable time later because almost everything had to be sanded and scraped out again . on the last picture for a little fitting mainboard , here all joints were already filled with 2 / K polyester filler . So tomorrow then the day 2 at Game City in Vienna!
  17. capten

    "Der Zwerg" aka "The Dwarf"

    Ok! The Aquatuning Packet arrived on Friday! Had to something to make room to unpack it at all and can take pictures. that was exciting again So I got the stuff only once all taken something under the microscope Die Alphacool HardTube Heat Gun Pro 2000W Then the Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light - Plexi Nickel CPU Cooler Is part really difficult to see in the shop , but the really good like me :love: the Alphacool Laing DDC310 - Complete Edition - schwarz/Acetal now the Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 15 LT I like also very good despite the size . all had to be married the same times Now the Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm Since it tingles again , it can not expect things to build in And finally, all the connections , angle nipple and Hard Tubes course . Of course, I could not tear myself together and immediately had to begin work. Prepare all necessary parts for painting. everything degreased with alcohol,cleaned and roughened with 600 grit paper the surfaces . and off we went with the paint, a layer Primer Please and 2 layers of white The result :love: Very cool, the pumps cables were also sleeved equal,then so I could pack everything again and prepare for transport thats it, let's see what's coming so ?
  18. capten

    "Light Glass"

    Peripheries First a huge thanks to for the discount that allows me the beautiful mod. Also a thank you to for the provision of peripheries. First, the Quickfire XTI keyboard. After some fumbling I got the keyboard but then dismantled get without damaging them. This I then taped. After I cleaned it was primed with a special plastic primer and then painted 2 times with champagne pearl plus 2 layers of clear coat The Reaper mouse I could completely disassemble all parts and paint just like the XTI. Now the headset Sirus 5.1. Here absolutely nothing worked. Firstly, many parts of the housing are plugged in and clipped these were then but back melted to leave to make way for other parts. Thus I could not disassemble optimally to work clean the headset. On the other hand went here with my coat absolutely nothing. Unfortunately, it is not the color which dissolves there but the plastic itself, with every clean the surface it will only get worse. I have it sanded best and just hammer out by many smaller operations. A masterpiece, this is not, I know absolutely not what I can do there yet, since all other paints to make any liability to the plastic. The earcups I dyed with leather color, this process I had to repeat almost 10 times until the result was fairly satisfactory. The head pad I covered with my white leather Done, so here are the results. The XTI got a completely white Keycapset, a silver set of internal keys, Silver Arrow and Caseking ESC key. On Case I have to continue working, more accurate about this soon!
  19. capten

    "Light Glass"

    Here we go finally on. The first parts for the water cooling arrived. is so kind to support my project. Thank you. First, the EK-HDC Fitting 16mm G1/4 - White and the EK-AF Pass-Through G1/4 - Black Then the brand new EK-RES X3 250 - White and the EK-FB MSI Z170A XPOWER TE Monoblock - Nickel which then also clear that motherboard comes in this mod for use. Next, the window which I received a while ago. Thus, a heartfelt thanks to firm for the discount and support. Before I continue working on the case right, I'm going to color-customize your mouse, keyboard and headset for the concept. These are as quick as possible Updates!
  20. capten

    "Light Glass"

    And on we go.... Now that I have the power supply , I could obstruct the same , but I just had to put an additional angle Then I realized my idea of a new Reservoir Holder, In addition I have cut off a 80 / 70mm tube obliquely cut and a slightly oblique hole, everything sanded flat and smooth The oblique neck was not very symmetrical,I have already revised, but I am not yet come to grind because I lack even an acrylic rod of the I will build the holder. The entire tube gets then from 3 sides a 5mm threaded around the reservoir to fix with screws. Because I want to anyway have a slightly riveted look outside,(So all 5-10cm black screws) all exterior parts interconnect, I had to tinker still a few angles for (the polished cubes are only for securing the curved lid). So I could not take my bender equal test times again and broaden my experience with acrylic glass. The front I additionally heated by the hot air blower to provide feed for uniform temperature. The result was quite good until here, I would have just left the tempering, since all angles have fully cleared so I could do it all again. The angle measure I have subsequently sawed cope ground and deburred all edges works better than by hand with this grinding holder so I could avoid to round the edge. since the ends have but bent a little high, I will shorten this yet Finally, as I understood now everything had gathered around me to build a sliding door, I was able to assemble the track yet. For that I had to put something back to the top corner from the base frame
  21. capten

    "Light Glass"

    In addition to my preparations for the Game City has also done a little in this project . I have received a Packet: Thanks hereby for the great support. There were definitely some nice stuff in there 3 x Silencio FP 120 PWM to cool the 360s radiator in the base. Then the Swift-RX Lmouse pad. Next, you can still see the Reaper mouse. very cool packaging White LED lighting fits perfectly to my concept . I believe I will change a few things . The lighting in the front acts like a flashlight in the dark . then the Sirus 5.1 Heatset. The previous best wearing comfort which I had by all Heat Sets. That says a glasses with big ears (comparison to G35, medusa NX,Creative WOW,steelseries 7H) last but not least the Cooler Master V 750
  22. capten

    "Light Glass"

    SSD Tray Really good pictures I have not done since I again seemed to me a little clumsy . So here I have made myself familiar with the first direction of the router,found the whole mass, how far the stop must be removed from the router etc. milled first time with a V - groove cutter , the depth of the tray. Then we continued with a chamfer cutter looked pretty out unevenly,until I had it only once halfway again sanded smooth Now I've worked my way again with180er,240er,320er,400er to 600er sandpaper high. There is still no master fell from the sky! I like it but better than expected. On the back I'm still a little hollow mill to integrate a LED stripe there.
  23. capten

    "Light Glass"

    So on we go : The required Material has finally arrived . The acrylic glass for foundation The acrylic glass for the showcase and the aluminum profiles for the foundation So then , I immediately to the skeleton for the Base made. All parts cut to size , filed a length and deburred . Then all the parts were connected together , cut with thread M3. The protruding screws will I later cut all and probably glue with liquid metal. So you can even make you a better picture of the size , here's a comparison to my Cooler Master Cosmos 1000 ! Clear a Midi Tower I need not put beside it, which would be just as large as the base . Next, I am Polishing practiced me something and the cube made ​​with the I'll screw the acrylic sheets in the visible range with each other . Since I have cut to size of the cover , an industrial expansion tank , 3cm cubes . With the blow torch to it has been seen in the photo , I've tried me once in flame polishing , but that did not work . The has no constant power . First I have the sawn edges sanded by machine dry with 180 and 240 paper and then worked my way up to 320 , 400 and 600 wet sandpaper . Normally, one should not go to the 2000 paper but that I had not and the result is sufficient for this purpose . Then I worked on all surfaces until the blue and then the red polishing paste with a polishing felt . Not to conclude with a car polish and a cotton top . Left to right I love the result , for my first attempts not so bad . Should 3cm cubes later look too chunky I will this reduce to 2cm . So it was time again for the time being .
  24. capten

    "Light Glass"

    So then let's go . Bending former No.1: Since I am quite at the point at the beginning of my project and do not know how much more will happen to me , is the motto SAVE ! Needed angle and something round , what I found ? Leftovers from my Dreamy Water Framework and an old leg a bar. From this could be determined to do something , I thought. So I first halved to 2 angle trim the square of the length . And the table leg tailored to length . Now everything interconnected , clean at right angles , of course That looked so far quite good , because I was working on an actual bending device ( which we refer later ) , I have ever tried the simple method . The object to be bent is clamped at the other end a few clamps and stretched HEATER with the heat gun , then exercise gravity . Has so far also worked quite well , but the result was more than unsatisfactory . Even though I ( was the test object can also totally wrong clamped ) at the point with more patience and better technology could achieve a more beautiful result , but was aware that the radius absolutely not my needs are met . So brainstorm was only times announced. At the point I can also help me of you . Since one always get your best ideas while working there went with the bender No.1 on. The I had ever seen in Ali and I thought this must be but can extend over a larger area . So my first issues . Ab bought the hardware store , wood and angle at Ebay a reconditions Wire , Kanthal wire , constantan wire or guitar strings . All usable , I bought the first two . Now two boards with angles associated with so much distance that suits the wire in between. The angle completely wrong mounted from below rather than from above and off-center but right-aligned . I had unfortunately found only after weeks toturial in English . That's why I was able to try out my new router at the point times , the last was at Aldi offer . The limited hours is often come to use . Someone said : Those who buy cheap buy 2 times !! I say Who buys expensive , not builds . Because he has no more money !! from underneath even a stop at an angle mounted ( also wrong again , which is slightly rounded bottom as can thin plates slip purely and due to temperature difference is the choice of material also not optimal , I have him replaced by wood ) On the surface I have glued aluminum foil with spray adhesive . And I just could not find the correct power supply I had simply times tough connect the wire to 220V here . : pillepalle : Were NEN mighty bang everything was bright and so it looked then from : : lol : Do not TRY THIS !!!! Well, after I had corrected all errors , instead of aluminum foil I have folded a steel plate and bonded with Sikaflex , seen the whole like this: Since the correct power supply had only ordered because you get a PC power supply only a maximum of 40cm to glow I made here my first attempts ( no hair dryer ) . The PSU has the way the bucket during this experiment . ? ( because I could not heat up long enough for the defective power supply , it with double-sided heating (in addition with hairdryer ) also works much better and I have the temperature difference to the bending form is not observed, these results were not satisfactory . It should be noted : The Kanthal must 'll tensioned with a spring over the entire length in order to keep the tension . As the leading power at the ends of a slotted screw very well because on the one hand align the position and the height can be adjusted other . Well as you could see in the background already, the development phase was nearing completion and I was able to start the Beta phase. The bending device NR.2 (the edges of acrylic glass) Following the example of my first attempts I could see the small bender create no problem. Since I have the plexiglass plate is always heated on one side only at the beginning I was able to create a clean edge but on the edges there were small cracks despite adequate temperature. Heating by both sides, in addition to a hot-air hair dryer / blower, I was able to increase the quality still is many times rounding right the same on the bottom right Here are the AC Power Adapter that I've bought for about 20 Euro at EBay. 24V 15A and although there was nothing in the description can be there even rules of 18-28V So now it was only create The final shape for the side part. Housing depth is about 24cm which should be just under 5cm deducted for the cables behind the motherboard (incl. Wall thicknesses) remain 19cm. So I decided for a radius of 16cm! :whistling: Even if I wanted to press yes to the work, did not help, it had to be a professional form. Again from the hardware store, be advised that some wood quite well can be forms, I know it not still but something they have sold me, and it has also worked quite well. So 8 boards only times the radius penciled: Then it was time to cut all ground still plan now milled recess for bracing and glued together yes I know I need a lot more and much bigger clamps Now here again applied the glue and glued to be bent shape I thought it breaks through, because it was really stiff, but worked fine So, apart from a few bending tests my preparatory phase has been completed and I'll probably order tomorrow the material. :thumbsup:
  25. capten

    Show Us Your Cases!

    Hi all! .... no case, i build a desk