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About capten

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  1. capten

    Project "SL5t"

    All right, and here the first final outdoor pictures. indoor pics with lightning comming soon
  2. capten

    Project "SL5t"

    Now the next update. Before the Cebit did not have much time and now I wait for the mod to come back again:D So ..... what had to be done: For the correct installation of the front radiator a few holes had to be changed The HDD cover got to fix still angle The Aquaero has now finally its black aperture The Flexlights for the interior and the PSu Window were soldered and sleeved In the midtray was still a hole for a few MB cables and the GPU lighting set The Sata cables I have shortened to a single connection. This is also quite easy. From the last Sata connection simply the cap carefully lever off and then the cable over the required plug as scarce as possible cut off. Now put the cap back on exactly this plug and done At the MB tray was as always exactly there a strut where the ATX cable should run, so also had to be helped here again. Since I no longer need the grommets of the midtray I could make a new execution for this big hole At the top there was still a vacancy which looked a bit dull, so I cut a little bit of aluminum, painted it and then covered with the red foil The extensions are now all ready Since one under the IO-Shield the radiator saw had to be made for this still a small aperture First the pattern taken Then cut out the appropriate piece from the front grille On this grid are two stripes which I originally wanted to leave in red. First sawn a 3mm strip and then ground in shape In red but it did not really fit so I painted black with two layers of clear lacquer The whole I then somewhat offset to the front fixed and with silicone glued Shortly before I have still two red LEDs set so that the slots in the front light All cables tidy hidden under the insulation The GPU got red LEDs The headset I have now also an individual touch given Since the mussels are slightly arched, the Plexiglas had to be slightly bent The PSU Window left me no rest. I then found a good tutorial for cementing plexiglass. Important is polyester adhesive tape. So again a small window cut, adjusted, polished edges. Apply the polyester adhesive tape completely to the surface to be glued, then place the window on it and gently cut it with the scalpel once. So I now have a perfectly mashed surface. Remove the center tape now, of course. Then apply abundant to full acryfix and press the window gently free of bubbles. This time I have accelerated the drying process additionally with UV light, just in bad weather, the sunlight simply does not matter. I think it was also often to bubble formation so that the glue usually after 24h was not 100% hard. With the UV light I could break off the glue easily after 3 hours with a chisel. Stupid, I have the window on the wrong side glued XDXD but you can recognize the difference to the first attempt. No more bubbles and full glue on it So all good things are 3. Unfortunately, 4-5 photos from the window have not changed anything but I will finish it in the final pics in detail. So, because I did not like the burgundy foil on the PSU cover with the red Plexi behind it, I painted it all black. Also the honeycomb covers of the Bitspower housing feedthroughs And then with the case colored red foil. The radiators were also painted in white and the slats with a red metallic lacquer In order to make the back a bit more photogenic, I have also continued here the red arrows Also these holes in the case did not please me then everything foiled red again Now again a dangerous matter. The Windows had to be adjusted something so I can continue to use it. Since some covers were closing in the way, I had to separate something from the steel of the Windows. Since glass can crack quickly with the sudden contact with heat I am very cautiously proceeded and have repeatedly inserted breaks at the cutting. But first I have the whole window with foil protected and then still an old rag for the protection against spark hung before it. So that was it! The memory and SSD has now finally arrived. So once I have the case again I can finally make the final photos :phat:
  3. HIHO! Up to the last update! all Alphacool logos were exchanged Chrome logos and the CPU holder got something orange accents. for I was determined a half a day busy with weeding the stickers, but they were not the only stickers as you can see the adapter fittings from behind, this had to be painted black then I've yet created a SLI Bridge and this cut from 2mm acrylic glass somewhat obliquely cut and glued together this has been repeatedly painted before and painted in the end black and covered with foil (the design of the graphics card) Unfortunately, I have a separate image of this, you can see it but the final images. On that PSU Cover I back side glued two strips to slide the cover exactly on the Mid-tray can. before Foiling the front I had to eliminate some damage then the cut edges of the windows were yet polished, unfortunately this is the best picture what I could get Procedure: first scrape the edges with a scraper smooth, then sanding of 300 to 800 wet sandpaper, then polish with two polishing pastes and a felt pad and the very end with car polish and a cotton disk to mirror polish Now I have the front covered with Carbonfoil Now I have the fenders on it glued, with double-thick adhesive tape, looks like a thermal pad, it has the appearance of a sealing rubber. The headlights and the radiator grille will now also be glued, the Fronspoiler was screwed the Xtreme Gaming stickers Gigabyte I can yet plotting to three times the size and for a small aluminum plate designed as a backing to give it some depth profile. This I then primed, painted, transferred the sticker and all onto the PSU cover glued For lighting I have two LED strips soldered with dimmable remote control handle. As under car illumination a black light LED comes strip used, these had a loose connection so I renewed the cable. for the black light I still have cut an aluminum strip on the I Stripe glue. The strip was then glued centrally under the Case one day I was busy with the cabling also had at every corner yet minimal corrections are made PSU cover did not fit completely, because of the Radi AIO was in the way, so I've cut out the cover below a small recess Brass pipes were all again adapted and something shortened because but a few things were not quite satisfactory. -an appropriate coolant I have mixed in distilled water and Mayhams Dey Yellow and Red. Now the worst after I had filled the Sys yesterday again with the correct Coolant and all just sample ran, there was an after 5min ZISCH and reservoir was empty. One of the brass tubes slipped from the CPU cooler and the pump has pumped their entire contents to the CPU / motherboard. super, something one day before completion. Well the Sys was out, it was only the pump, but I am a bit nervous to start the system. Yesterday I naturally everything dried again, mixed new Coolant, refilled again, and the whole then as to run through the night. So the Final Pics! Currently there is absolute chaos here have no proper place more. The quality of the images is modest beautiful, I will do the same next week new, as little taste, I hope this rich images Hi ! As promised , the final pics.
  4. capten

    Project "SL5t"

    It's Monday, time for next update;) Now I've upgraded the backplate visually. For this I have two red 3mm plexiglas plates cut and glued together Then I cut these a few days later in shape and from 3mm to 6mm slanted obliquely, it unfortunately got badly photographed Then everything completely matted and glued to the GPU. I've also added some of the motherboard's design. Then it went with the foiling of the parts of the top Because then I noticed that the foil to little is. Well sometimes you have to see it all before you. I then began to edit the parts again Besides, I have cut a new logo for the front and painted this silver Now I finally finished all the parts and glued to the case with epoxy glue Then it was time to lay pipes Also here a few holes had to be set matching the honeycomb design I have two spacers built so that the case does not protrude throughs so far inward And here the finished loop As you can see in the last picture, all PCI Thumscrews were exchanged for white, and others were used at PSU Somehow I thought the PSU cover was too unstable, the gap around the Aquaero have often changed. I thought 2mm Alu would be enough but so I now have two aluminum angles cut, primed, painted and glued to the PSU Window Yesterday I started already with the sleeving of the cables. Actually already last week but with the Masterwatt is a sleeving 1: 1 not possible so I had to reject the plan and create now only Extension. The pump I have already finished So it is slowly coming to an end, but it still remains exciting as the cables all can be optimally laid and above all as I bring everything to the Aquaero:vain:
  5. The next update! Sorry for some images, with Energy Drink in the blood, it is difficult to keep the camera calmly XD. As recently already announced I had my first time a form for the 13er brass tubes build. So get bought in the hardware store and a 15er copper pipe and bent this. On the second try that also looked very presentable. This bent pipe and a piece I've just halved with the Flex and sanded smooth. Now I have a perfect shape for the 13er tubes For the motherboard tray I have a 3mm aluminum plate cut and screwed into the Case then sawed wood on the later, the leather is fixed Now the holes for the pipes and cable set. the pipe penetration needed 17er holes, so I first with a cone drill holes drilled 16er and finally even with a size 17 drill afterwards after the 1/4 inch thread cutter was there I was able to secure the DTM exhaust. Just stupid that the angle was too thin so I decided from 3mm aluminum sheet suitable nuts cut and there purely cut the thread. Not pretty but rarely does what it should and can not be seen anyway. matching brass tubes in DTM style were then cut to size This is what I can actually save me but I speak the topic anyway. After a little practice with the brass tubes and tube bender I have created the loop in the interior. and Cutt! I knew it! Every time I say to myself, do not start before the hardware is there and I have made the mistake again. My plan was to pack the graphics card in the lower 2 PCIe slots to have up enough space to tinker from the brass tubes a exhaust manifold. Yes if you plan in advance is all in vain. Coolers of graphics cards are too thick, you can not use the lower PCIe slot, even if the Mid tray comes out only stay 5mm up to PSU. Then there would be no more room for the wooden board with the leather and the PCI outputs on Case would also be extended by one. The loop at any rate nothing that cpus come up into it, half of the tubes I could accommodate but first I needed new. Well that later. Now I have set the position for the AIO radiators of GPUs. One comes before the power supply and the second comes from the back of the case. only times sawed So for the first hole in the ground then put the hose guide from the AIO in Midtray Then, an angle was cut carrying the pump and the second radiator of the AIO around the pump to be positioned as flexible as possible I have set oblong holes. For milling these holes I need to buy a cross table to me. Here I drilled only at the beginning and end of two holes and cut out the connection. then cut two angles and a flat bars for the radiator then I fastened spacers for the rear side panel. (P5 Style) well as already mentioned I have to make different loop so I displaced all the holes in the pipe carry out, just like the first time with cone drill drilled to 16mm and a 17mm drill afterwards. the old holes I closed with aluminum kit and 2K Filler again, back simply tape it so that it does not fall through, which you can then easily be removed or sanded again. after sanding nor a twice fine fill in and ready Now I have bent the window for the back to match the shape of the Cases around the compressions of the outer corners in bend can not be seen. If the Window cut to size after the bend. Delicate matter I know. Beautifully clamped the whole and every 5cm goes be reclamped thus merely nothing wrong. The side which closes the front is then beveled so that it nicely with the Case fits perfect sawn off only the top and bottom cut out another hole for the fan and this then freed of unnecessary ballast fits also perfecly Now I have the brass tubes to re-cut and bent. First of securing the pipe bender neat, which is even something of unwieldy and chromed tubes slip easily then all aluminum parts were primed with filler and with aluminum primer all cutting edges on Case I have with color (Paintbrush) overlined to the rust prevention even if this is not the best method. Now I have the wood panels covered with leather The holes should in fact be stung with a Hollow Punch, the ground was too soft so I had to cut it with a knife. Not very clean but is concealed by the fittings. Now I have all the parts ready lacquered. so now the next challenge: a PSU cover. So that you still can still use the Window and open. So, at first bent a plexiglass Below only slightly slanted so as I said, the window can still be put in Case then completely cut to size and put yet holes for the tubes Then I measured everything, position of the power supply etc. and the design transferred. here until the surface is the leather-covered this surface then brushed with 40 grit sandpaper so that the contact adhesive holds Now I glued the leather on it. then I have three or four hours spent with the transfer of the film. You believe it or not, but for the whole PSU Cover I was good for 8 hours. That was not planned: P Before leather I had already made a Fillup, everything was tight. Get tomorrow everything reinstall and start with the cabling. Little things are still, Window outer edges polished, correct a few pipes at the loop, what you always see only the photos and operate at all corners yet tweaking. a Sli bridge I wanted to build but a little time still remains for me.
  6. capten

    Project "SL5t"

    Here is the next update! I could last night unfortunately only 3h sleep then work 9h and 20.00 we have to take a night shift so I shall be brief There is not much to say, the pictures speak for themselves. Since the red film is a little translucent, I decided to double everything with film, so first black and then red. Here are the small items around the PSU Window. Then I the last week only polished The black plexiglass was only frosted with 600 wet abrasive paper. Is hardly recognizable in the photos. Then it went to filming, first everything with black foil and then with red foil Comes cool The small elements of the PSU window were made of burgundy foil which fits perfectly to the mainboard, the red foil is matching the case Then everything was glued with transparent silicone to the Windows And then lettering with white foil Here the PSU window, glued with silicone, the small varnished strip I have previously covered with the burgundy foil At the front there were some problems, as the front is slightly arched, the plexiglass was under tension and did not hold. So everything had to clean again and paint again. The plexiglass I have still slightly warmed and bent before the second attempt before I have attached it with epoxy glue. With the other elements I am exactly the same. Yeah !! I like it Unfortunately, I had occasionally epoxy glue on the hands and the many cleaning of the surfaces, the paint was so strongly attacked that I had to paint everything again. I really wanted to avoid it, but I could not let that happen. Soo I like it better Short and sweet This week comes the top and hope also the cable sleeving or tubing. 8o
  7. capten

    Project "SL5t"

    So it goes, after I had to grind all parts again and rework Everything was painted Afterwards, all parts were fixed to the base plate and glued with Acrifix 1S 0116. As expected, of course, I slipped a few times with the syringe, damn grrr The attempt to paint it was not particularly satisfying. I will foliate the places later Despite all this, I am very satisfied with the color concept. I like it:thumbsup: After a long time, I think a good design for the front and the top. It is a mixture of 2mm and 3mm Plexiglas combined in high gloss and matt. So now I began to transfer all the patterns to the Plexiglas and cut them out The front and the top Besides, I disconnect a graphics card from Light Glass, it hurt: heul and this converted to Bitspower. For that, the PCI bracket had to be folded again and painted black For the HDD Cover I now still cut a second plate in white and for the strip of the front plexiglass 2x6mm All parts for the top and the front are now bevelled (is there a term for this in English?) Now the Coolermaster logo away with 2x polyester 2 / K spatula And then I glued the 6mm strips on the front, fixed with seconds glue and the outer edges all closed with Acrifix, really complicated because the front is slightly bent. after the glue was dry, I then again revised the ends of the strips until all straightened with hand and power file, minor damage were 2 / K spatula Then everything again primed and varnished Now the edges of the white plate are polished and So the result. Here everything is already positioned for the water cooling and measured whether everything fits so far. Therefore only the pipes have to be cut. so then, see you soon!
  8. Hello! As announced I made a small engine bonnet. For that I have transferred the fan opening from the lid on aluminum then I have again created me two forms to reshape the aluminum now deformed and cut out the aluminum looking for something I can build a engine bonnet breech, I found it here (right the original) The pins I cut to length and each provided with a hole then halved a key chain and so it should look like after it was painted, I have the engine bonnet covered with carbon foil and glued the bonnet breech it The chipset cooler from the motherboard had to change their color Then I started already times to relate the radiators with leather attempts me times on a small piece of wood, with 2 cm foam material upholster on the headlights I also equipped already with Led's for the area in front of the IO panel I had to create a cover because you could see from there quite well behind the radiator or on the reservoir to let red disappear all the motherboard I have folded a small aluminum sheet and painted to cover all Sataports Cpu Holder was also repainted The cable duct in the MB tray had to be moved, I got him simply cut out and placed to the left behind the Radi bracket The Ram modules I have also mounted casual. but ran is not according to plan. The GSkill have only one side of memory so she slipped always out of the bottom. I have also used it nor the thermal pad of the original cooler. Now when I wanted to mount the cooler on the modules, a problem again. The screws are all 2mm too long. So I got all screws 2mm shorter sanded, unfortunately, had no right here so much for that than next I have the exhaust manifold from the brass tubes tinker.
  9. capten

    Project "SL5t"

    Hi Guys! Go on. After transferring the designs to the Plexiglas, I also cut these out then tailored for the small strip on the far left a few times 2mm strips Actually the red plexiglass should be polished but these small 2 x 20mm strips all the same to grind brought me to white heat. So I glued the small stripes with epoxy glue to the aluminum and just sanded them after curing. The Red Plexiglas later foiled everything anyway. I just wanted the UV effect of the polished edges. But in this one place I will be able to cope with it. These strips are then painted with. Two aluminum brackets have now been cut for the holder of the Aquaero In this form, the entire cover did not fit into the PSU bay anymore. I thought I had to shorten the whole aperture still a bit but the angle adjust has also helped. Since I have failed with the actual midtray miserably as far as the soldering, but it left me no rest, I still had to practice and test something. Screws I wanted here actually very reluctant. Somehow it worked then, I believe at least. It looked quite ok for a few remnants So I now ventured to the correct angle. Everything with as little contact with other surfaces so that the heat can not be dissipated as quickly and as a base a granite slab. Last but not least, the veneer of the workbench flown around my ears, they gave a loud bang XD! So everything neatly sanded and degreased and then everything for soldering eigespannt. I am really satisfied with the result. In the sample I did not have such good capillary action. The window for the PSU I now cut from 2mm Plexiglas and polished all edges. I have now completely glued on a 1cm larger plate Is a little bubble but I like the effect. Thanks to the brass pipes of the water cooling you will not see any water in the system anyway. The holes for the PSU aperture were still set at an angle behind I cut thread The patterns for the front I have all transferred to 2mm Plexiglas and sawn. Who knows? Here I have already made the first changes to the original file? I have here, incidentally, two 2mm slices glued together and both with a dishwashing cut;) The two elements above the arrows I have cut from 2mm aluminum because I want to bend here a small rod I have now marked these rods and cut them with the fine-boring grinder, which, by the way, did not say goodbye after two years. Man again buy new machine grrr These I then clamped between two steel strips and worked something with the hammer until I was satisfied Jooooo, So beautiful I could not even imagine it Oh so on Sunday I wanted to spare my neighbors times a bit so I began to polish some parts of the red plexiglass All these here I cut off all cutting edges with a Cutta blade, then polished from 320 (400, 600,) to 800 paper wet and finally polished with two polishing pastes on high gloss. Pagan work, man man and that was not even half In order to see slowly times to go forward I began yesterday with the paint. Will finally also see whether it all acts as I imagine it before it goes with the other surfaces. Aluminum got a special 1 / K aluminum primer and the Plexiglas I primed with plastic adhesion mediator. Then continue working with spraying spatula. My workshop is definitely too small So then, let's see how far I come next week.
  10. Hello all ! Here I want to introduce all components used again. I had the last week but frequently walking day Here the ASRock Fatal1ty X99X Killer/3.1. I think the contrast of red green really well. A motherboard in free wilderness not seen so often, still untamed :vain: G.SKILL RIPJAWS V DDR4 2666MHz the Gigabyte GeForce® GTX 1080 Xtreme Gaming Waterforce the Gigabyte 1200W Power Supply XP 1200M here the Enermax T.B.Silence in 14cm and that´s the T.B.Vergas White in 12cm with white LED´s and here many components from the new Alphacool Eis-Serie and here again the Mastercase Maker 5 with tempered glass window and mama and papa swan Despite still missing parts I could not let it remain and have begun already times. So let's get started! First, as always, the case was made naked. Now it went straight to the air intake slots of a fender. Dry runs I had behind me so right now. I transferred to aluminum the dimensions of the front and mark the position of the louvers Now I have a positive and negative form for it to create the aluminum during peening / flanging (as called the molding of aluminum at all ?, I do not know it) does not tear unintentionally. But I've just the 4 different slots milled in MDF and fits to the counterpart Now cut the slots in the wood then all processed with the hammer and the shapes and cut out in the end only from the large aluminum plate it goes on with a front spoiler, only cut the spoiler lip from acrylics Try and think of something I had an image in the head thereto and have more acrylics radicals tailored and trimmed ground at the same time the rear spoiler is made. Here I decided for MDF. First of coarse cut design and now missed the whole a Aerodynamic shape. This reminded me when working on more planes than cars The bottom 3cm where the spoiler on the case is I have glued a second MDF board, have not photographed but in the later images of the painting you can see the spoiler down around gets thicker after I was now on all operations of the front spoiler in the clear I have glued the various acrylic parts with each other then I bent from aluminum small wing spoiler then everything was primed to start the filling, just the front spoiler had to be done much After the water cooling has arrived, it went to the cutout for the reservoir despite a PVC cutting disc that work is always pure torture but just as I had imagined only new holders for the reservoir is made. Preferably 3mm aluminum angle, still remainder of my desk;) casually, because of all the dry processes the spoilers were always times filled and primed The opening behind the louvers had to be cut Now the radiator grille the rear spoiler was now ready for painting, so I have all the holes for the mounting set and the actual wing cut to size and glued. Here again 3mm acrylic glass after gluing with epoxy adhesive the connections equal primed and filled after the radiator grille was now cut out I find the optimum position for the small wing spoilers and those glued to the alu sheets with the air slots is slowly taking shape A DTM exhaust is also planned so a aluminum bracket was cut and then drilled holes for the exhaust pipes The exhaust is then the way from a few remnants of brass pipes and fittings with 45 ° angle. A 1 / 4Zoll thread cutter I have not yet, I ordered yesterday and should still arrive this week here I had everything tested, by lacquered whether I like the result. One often sees irregularities only when it's done, so better now before there is no time. the holders of the reservoir were also painted, are here mounted and fits beautifully What next? Headlights: P cut 1 cm acrylic glass strip and only once sanded quite a while and burnt fingers Now I have this cut and polished in the headlight shape :doofy: had himself photographed really bad I've cut and folded the front grille of the fan guards from Case, this will sit flush with the front spoiler lip as of 8o next update comming soon!
  11. capten

    Project "SL5t"

    Hi! After the case was made naked, I had to realize that my radiator constellation was not as fit as I wanted. After a long time, I had to saw. The 280er does not fit above and the 240er comes extremely far down then the piping then the mainboard would cover, so the 280er upwards. The yellow taped points I will cut first. The second marking is for the 8Pin Atx cable which is exactly centered with the Gaming I7. Sloping cable routing is not my thing, so I will enlarge the cable lead. In order to work there clean, I had to remove only the rear handle from the case. And then everything clean, in the taped condition, cut open With the radiator bracket I had only the rear wall cut off The ATX cable bushing I cut up well on the double size and of course, once slipped off and the paint damaged. Since I have already tried massively in different colors it meets this here with best but wanted to use and I will not continue it. Then I riveted the handle from the case immediately and the rivets painted black (right), all interfaces of course also .. Then I once cut all possible materials, cut patterns created, plotted and transferred to the material. 0,75 Alu for the Midtray 2mm Plexi for the HDD Cover Designs 3mm plexiglass red fluorescent as base plate for HDD cover and The X99 Arock arrows for the Windows. Now it was also starting with the sawing, first the 2mm Plexiglas Then the aluminum sheet And the Decals for the Windows After the sawing of the 2mm strips I have now all these on neat gaps, straightened and sanded. The still black stripes come then in 3mm Plexi Which I have sawn out next Now I fixed all strips with double-sided tape and the dimensions for the base plate marked Then I have the 2mm Plexiglas again completely ground, cleaned and with double-sided tape on a sheet glued so that it does not fly away from the paint. The base plate is now also tailored The edges I have all slanted to the half to 45 degrees. The outer edges with the top cutter and the inner edges by hand The sheet metal for the Midtray was now completely cut and then folded.(bent) Now I have cut 2mm aluminum for the PSU cover and cut a few small angles as a bracket and soldered together (also here: does not ask how, absolute disaster but it holds) Now I have transferred the designs to the PSU cover The Aquaero must be a bit deeper, so I have now torn all the surfaces to be sawed Everything still nice straight cut And the section for the PSU still slightly bevelled So that would be status quo. Next, I'm trying to create an inlay for the PSU window, hope it works out the way I've seen it with some others. Is indeed something angular. And for the front of the case I'm still looking for inspiration. I just can not think of what I do best under the arrows, where the Cooler Master logo sits. Something has to be there because otherwise it looks boring. So many thanks for reading, until the next update!;-)
  12. Welcome to my next Project: „Maker EVO Deluxe" After a long time of thinking, I've decided to do a more complex Casemod. Lets see what I'm doing with it. To be called into action is coming the brand new Mastercase Maker 5. Inspired was this Mod from the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution. The interior was completely cleaned and covered with pale Leather. For the Cables/PSU Area a Cover was created in the Design of the Case. It should be installed a lavish Watercooling with Brasstubes and Chrome Fittings which should seems like a Header. The AGB will fitted justified in the front of the Case, so that it will be one unit on that case and be used as brake fluid reservoir. At the Case you will find some air scoops, which are normally founded on engine covers or fenders., which will be made from me out of Aluminum Plates. At the Leather I made different punch works. Here and there will be a Wing installed together with Headlights and one DTM Axle Back Exhaust. The Theme is called Sportcar and I will try to make as much Details as possible. A huge thank to all who supported this Project, without your Help the Execution of this Project wouldn't be possible. little preview :rock: Hardware: Case: MasterCase Maker 5 Graphiccards: 2 x Gigabyte GeForce® GTX 1080 Xtreme Gaming Water cooling Mainboard: ASRock Fatal1ty X99X Killer/3.1 CPU: Intel Core I7 5820K Ram: 8 x 8GB G.SKILL RIPJAWS V DDR4 2666MHz SSD: HyperX 3K Limited Edition White 240Gb Netzteil : Gigabyte XP1200M Watercooling: Pump:Alphacool VPP655 - G1/4 IG inkl. Eisdecke D5 - Plexi V.3 CPU : Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light - Brass Black Chrome Ram : Alphacool D-RAM Modul (für Alphacool D-RAM Cooler) -... Alphacool D-RAM Cooler X4 Universal - Acetal Black Nickel GPU : 2 x Gigabyte GeForce® GTX 1080 Xtreme Gaming Water cooling AGB : Alphacool Eisbecher 250mm Acetal Ausgleichsbehälter Radiator: Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm Radiator Brasstubes : Alphacool HardTube 13/10mm 90° Messing Chrome 10/50cm Hardtubes : Alphacool Eisrohr 13/10mm Plexi (PMMA) HardTube Satin... Alphacool HardTube 13/10mm Plexi (PMMA) Klar 80cm - 4er Set Fittings : Alphacool Eiszapfen 13mm HardTube Anschraubtülle G1/4 für chrome and black Fans: Enermax T.B.Silence 14cm Enermax T.B.Vegas 12cm weiß Accessories: Aluminum Acrylics Wood and MDF white Leather Blank Leather Punch iron Swivel knife Color, Coating Spray Pipe Bender
  13. capten

    Project "SL5t"

    Project „SL5T“ "SL" as you already know from Mercedes Benz, is to make the first impression what this project stands for. Elegance, luxury and simple forms. The MasterCase Maker 5T is used. The interior is as discreetly as possible cleared of all unnecessary elements. The walls are clad with Plexiglas and multi-layered in the design of the mainboard. An elaborate water cooling system is installed which, however, is kept as minimal as possible. A cover is made for the cable area, which provides a window for the PSU and on which the ASROCK logo is placed in case size. The logo is framed with the design of the X99 Gaming I7 as well as I would like the elements of the mainboard to continue the whole case. (The red racing arrows between the lower two PCIe slots) All cables are sleevedin the hardware colors. From the outside the contours of the Maker 5T are emphasized by Plexiglas, where also sponsor logos will be found. So much for the formal part. The Maker5t will be my next Rig, since I have not yet a good portable Gaming PC. So I have now also evasive possibilities when my table times problems and above all I can finally also times my table new hardware miss. Actually, I wanted in this project not so much effort to operate but again will grow the mod again tremendous. Since I now the first time on a separate X99 board change, I dedicate this mod to the ASROCK X99 Gaming I7 And let the whole project be inspired by the mainboard. Hardware CPU: Intel Core I7 6850K Mainboard: Asrock Fatal1ty X99 Professional Gaming I7 Ram: Avexir Blitz 4x4Gb 2800Mhz SSD: Avexir S100 240Gb GPU: Nvidea Geforce GTX970 PSU:MasterWatt Maker 1200 Case:MasterCase Maker5t Watercooling Bitspower NGTX970MGV2 Acrylic (Clear) BP-WBVGNGTX970MGV2NPAC Bitspower Leviathan Xtreme 240 4xG1/4" Radiator BP-NLX240-F4PB Bitspower Leviathan Slim 280 4xG1/4" Radiator BP-NLS280-F4PB Bitspower DDC Plus Pump BP-DDCPLS Bitspower DDC TOP Water Tank Integrated Kit 300 (POM Version With Z-CAP II) BP-DDCTOPWTIK300PC3-BKCL Z-Tube 250( ICE Red) BP-WTZACT250-IRD Bitspower DDC Pump Cooler Bracket (Red) BP-DDCPCBT-RD Bitspower Pump Cooler For DDC/MCP355 (Red) BP-DDCPC-RD Bitspower CPU Block Summit EF (Intel) (Acrylic Top Version) BP-WBCPUIAC-CUMBKWH Bitspower CPU Block Plate For Intel CPU (Deep Red) BP-CPUIPT-DRD Bitspower G1/4" Deluxe White Enhance Multi-Link For OD 12MM BP-DWEML Bitspower G1/4" Deep Blood Red Enhance Multi-Link For OD 12MM BP-DBREML Bitspower Deep Blood Red Enhance Rotary G1/4" 90-Degree Multi-Link Adapter BP-DBRE90RML Bitspower Deep Blood Red Enhance 90-Degree Dual Multi-Link Adapter BP-DBRE90DML Bitspower Deluxe White Enhance Rotary G1/4" 90-Degree Multi-Link Adapter BP-DWE90RML Bitspower Deluxe White Enhance 90-Degree Dual Multi-Link Adapter BP-DWE90DML G1/4" Deluxe White Rotary 90-Degree IG1/4" Extender BP-DW90R G1/4" Deluxe White Mini Dual G1/4" Extender BP-DWWP-C42 G1/4" Deluxe White Rotary G1/4" Extender BP-DWRG G1/4" Deluxe White Muti-Transfer Adapter BP-DWWP-C03 G1/4" Deluxe White IG1/4" Extender-15MM BP-DWWP-C60 Deluxe White Mini Valve With Black Handle BP-MVV-DWBK Deluxe White Q Plus-Block BP-DWFMB G1/4" Deluxe White Stop Fitting BP-DWWP-C06 Bitspower None Chamfer Brass Hard Tubing OD12MM Deep Red - Length 300 MM BP-NCBHT12DRD-L300 G1/4" Deluxe White Aqua-Pipe I BP-DWWP-C17 G1/4" Deep Blood Red CaseTop Water-Fill SET BP-DBRWP-C04 X-Station Mini Power-Extension I Female Version BP-MINIXSP1F-RD Bitspower Logo Aluminum Thumb Screw For 632 (Deep Red BP-LATSC632-DRD Bitspower Logo Aluminum Thumb Screw For 632 (White) BP-LATSC632-WH Bitspower Metal Tubing Cutter BP-CMMTC Bitspower Flow Indicator BP-FI-CLBKWH Red Blade For Bitspower Flow Indicator BP-BFI-RD Control: Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT equipment Fan:2 x NB eLoop B12-1 ,3 x NB eLoop B14-1 Headphone:MasterPulse Keyboard:MasterKeys Pro M Sketches In order to bring the project as smoothly as possible, I took this time a bit more time on the computer and already times sketches for the different covers created. The elements are glued together in several different colors. Partially varnished, partially foil and partly (only) polished. For use comes Plexiglas in various colors and thicknesses, aluminum foils and varnishes. This is only the rough basic idea, should expect again but not look good I let myself think of something else: thumbup: This cover comes on the right side in the case inside where the drive bays sit. To the right the original pattern and to the left the lighting effect. Here the front, whether the red arrows will really work well, we will see Here the front of the PSU cover, the design on the left will frame the window to the PSU And here the elements for the Windows, not completely in red but as template it is enough Hardware pic´s The majority of all components are already there, but see for yourself: A big thanks goes to all who support me with this project: ASROCK COOLERMASTER BitsPower Blacknoise Avexir
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    "Light Glass"

    "Light Glass" by night with different lighting effects Alarm mode(red LED) while the door opens (orange LED) and a few rainbow effects Okay, it was nice! I'll tinker just a video for the whole hope to get that in 2 weeks out. So see you soon! :thumbsup: