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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    all i want to do is order the am4 bracket for the cooler master air maker 8. i have chatted with a live representative about 8 times first time the guy claimed if u order the product from newegg or amazon the am4 bracket would be included, which i knew was false. so i spoke to supposedly to THE EXACT SAME REPRESENTATIVE under alias “Adrian” and he then proceeded to tell me it WOULD NOT come with the bracket. i then spoke to representatives again that could never just send me a damn link to buy the bracket. its as if they have no idea how to. u can forget calling cooler master bc u know damn well they dont answer their phone. service is horrible. id love a DETAILED EMAIL with a DIRECT LINK to buy the am4 bracket for my COOLER MASTER AIR MAKER 8 CPU FAN. It is literall listed NO WHERE on ur website. Thanks for alot of wasted time for a 2 dollar part u couldnt just ship out to begin with and god awful customer service email: ejk19877@gmail.com
  2. 2 points
    I didnt buy it for the RGB, actually didnt know it was there until I got the product with my amd cpu "in a box", but..... you make a fan with a RGB light on it, you make it color adjustable by a wire to USB port on the motherboard and you have a piece of software to control the color...... so far so good.... Then why can the software only do 4 things..... 1. cycle colors 2. set it as one static color 3. the the light blink (breathe) 4. off. what happend to all the cool stuff..... 5. The obvious... color scale depending on cpu speed 7. color scale depending on fan speed 8. color scale depending on hdd/ssd activity 9. Blink to music beats... 10 going further......blink to every keyboard input....if detectable.
  3. 2 points
    These instructions for the ML120R RGB really suck. Sorry but they do. No where does it explain what buttons do what on the controller. Or does it explain the other things like the SATA connection and connections like 2, 4, 5, 6, 7 and the plug above 7. And I'm guessing the 2 radiator fans use the spliter provided with the black and brown plugs to the motherboard rear fan header but that doesn't explain how cable 7 is attached to the controller. Where does the Case reset go? Where does the motherboard reset go when I have a reset button on my PC case? Where does the plug above #7 go on the controller that looks like a temperature thing? Where does 2 and 4 go. Who ever wrote these instructions really needs to re-think there intentions
  4. 2 points
    Hello from me also, it might not be a CoolerMaster but i think it belongs here!! Here i give you CrackedTurbine case mod!!
  5. 1 point
    I see lots of comments in the forum about challenges with the LEDs in the C700P case. I'm having issues as well. My rig includes a Ryzen-powered Asus Crosshair VI Hero motherboard and RAM modules with LEDs. Some of you may know that Asus is the mother/owner of the whole Aura lighting control tech and is supposed to work with multiple vendors. It seems it is not that easy though. When I connect the MB LED control header the the LED/Fan controller in the C700P I get less than desirable behavior. The case selector button on the case top for LED controls never cycles to the MB control option. Outside of that the other modes work fine and I get all the LED colors. So, the LEDs work (and so do the fans). Just not the MB mode. When I load Asus' Aura LED control software it is supposed to display the various LED systems that can be controlled. Instead of seeing the MB, RAM modules and the case all I get is the MB. I CAN control the motherboard with this software but nothing else. Argh! I know that this is likely an Asus problem to solve, it is about their MB and Aura software but I was wondering (hoping?) somebody here might have wrestled with this already and broke the code... please share? Has anyone actually controlled the C700P case with Aura yet? What did you have to do? Maybe even with a Asus Crosshair VI Hero? Is anyone able to select the MB mode with the LED selector on the top of the case? What does it do?
  6. 1 point
    I admire white or silver in a case as much as the next person, but preferably when the whole outer chassis is that way, as with the COSMOS II 25th Anniversary Edition. For the COSMOS C700P, therefore, I would like two modding components in particular to be made available: 1) Feet/carry handles in brushed black aluminium, and; 2) A "DarkMirror" front panel, with frosting at its sides and in the logo, to allow enthusiasts to show off any RGB fans. It would also be helpful for there to a rear panel for Chimney layouts with an integrated dust filter.
  7. 1 point
    Hello Not recommended because of 2mm Might you cant close down your side panel ? Please contact NZXT customer service maybe they have some solution for you
  8. 1 point
    here is some updated : For the C700P à that has to do with the detection time. If the C700P does not go to M/B sync mode, please do the following: 1. Shut down PC 2. Make sure the RGB_IN channel is used to connect the C700P to the Asus M/B 3. Start up PC a. Directly press the RGB mode button until you get to MB sync. Instead of shutting down the PC, you could also unplug the Sata power Tell me if this work or not
  9. 1 point
    Hello Our team will reply your ticket as soon as possible .
  10. 1 point
    Hi. Am upgrading pc to Amd4. Was trying to see if my CPU cooling had an amd4 bracket? In the compatibility chart it shows that Hyper 103 is compatible, however, I can't seem to find an upgrade kit for it. Does this kit even exist???
  11. 1 point
    As a years long Spawn user, someone who had Xornet for several months and now owns a MM520, I agree on most counts. My hand is 18.5x10cm and I've gotten used to wide mouse. MM520 is longer, that's immediately noticeable. It's doesn't bother me, it's not too long, like Mionix Naos 5000 that I had long ago. It now allows people with small hands to palm it comfortably while still being excellent for fingetip, which you couldn't do properly with Xornet/Spawn...it made MM520 more versatile. It's taller than Xornet but in one specific part, on the left side between the thumb and index finger. Your palm actually rests on that part a little...Xornet has a bump which is more centered. If you look at them from behind, MM520 has a more steeper curve from left to right, while on Xornet it's more gradual. What's also more gradual on Xornet is the finger rest for the ring finger, on the right. The part with mouse buttons on the MM520 is narrower than Xornet's, which makes that ridge more pronounced on MM520...it's more "smooth" on Xornet. It does suit me in a way, however, because I had some fatigue with Xornet during long gaming sessions (like 6+ hours), I felt like the my ring finger and pinky were too separated from the rest. So far, no such feeling on MM520, my ring finger don't feel as spread out because of narrowed mouse buttons part. I kinda like the new PBT material on MM520. Feels good, doesn't slip...The coating on all of my Spawns used to peel after a year or so. No such issues on Xornet but I've only been using it for several months. I don't mind the lack of rubber on thumb rest, it doesn't slip, and it's comfortable for me. On contrary, I dislike thumb buttons. They sound loud and weird...I'm yet to get used to the feel, since I'm not using those often. As for rest of the buttons, it's my biggest gripe with MM520. They work fine and they're comfortable but the the click feel is noticeably worse than Xornet, for me. They sound hollow and loud, the right one more so than left one. I don't know if I got the "wrong" specimen or my Xornet was super tight, but I really prefer the ones on Xornet, they were almost the same as those lovely ones on Logitech G203 which were perfect for me. DPI button is ok, but I prefer two wide ones on Xornet than single narrow one on MM520. Scroll wheel is a lot better on MM520. Bigger (or taller) than Xornet's so it's easier to find, much better feel while scrolling, semi-loud, easier to press (but still a lot harder than Mouse 3 on G203)... The cables are good on both, IMO. Relatively thin, smooth, no issues (G203 beats them, though). So far no issues with sensor. I had a problem with Xornet where cursor would sometimes skip and jitter during very slow movements, which made precision stuff like fine skipping in porn videos (hue) annoying. It was happening on both mouse pads I have...I don't know if it's the sensor or something else but it's the main reason I switched from Xornet to MM520. Otherwise, I was pretty satisfied with Xornet... I don't really mind the new shape, but it would be perfect if MM520 was just a fraction smaller with same shape. Or if they just gave the Xornet that sensor and scroll wheel...
  12. 1 point
    Hello I'm just writing here to ask if anyone knows how to get their hands on Cooler Master Hyper 212 Fan clips?? I really love my headsink keeps it nice and cool but when I removed it to clean the fan and add new thermal paste the clip broke :'( So now my fan is making this nasty noise :/ Can anyone send a link to buy new clips? I don't wanna re buy the whole thing. Thanks for your time
  13. 1 point
    Yes , you can contact them at here via ticket : Request Ticket
  14. 1 point
    Anyone know when this is supposed to release? Been searching everywhere for info.
  15. 1 point
    I think sometimes the motherboard fan connectors only allow a max of 1 Ampere, if you connect with splitter too many fans to the same fan connector on the motherboard, may be that fan connector cannot support all the fans connected, may be you can check the maximum amount of current such connector can provide to the fans attached, I dont know if this suggestion is going to sort out you issue, just an idea
  16. 1 point
    Hello , Sorry but i will ask them when we back to work on next Thursday or i try PM someone at EU team . Be back as fast as possible once i get news from them
  17. 1 point
    Greetings, got new Ryzen 1700X cpu, and Asus prime b350-plus Motherboard. Cause no stock cooler in "X" cpu-s package, purchased CM 212X (I knew there is still no - AMD AM4 UPGRADE KIT (RR-ACCY-AM4B-R1) here in east Europe, so there is few solution to mod with parts in 212X package. I use 2011 screws, make new thread with M4 tap in am4 backplate (I and II tap full, and only one, one and half spin with tap III, so it would be tight). Dissamble x clamp, and make small slot (between 2 already existing) with small sharp rasp for new place cooler thorn - used for non sliding, and rasp 4 little boobles since clamp no need to snap in usual places. Add some plastic shells for camuflage, hehe, and voila.
  18. 1 point
    This is something I wanted to do since I cut the hole in the front panel for the reservoir window. The original CM logo badge was an unfortunate casualty of the hole position and was lost, so I am relocating it down lower. But I didn't want to just move the thin metal badge down and re-glue it, I felt compelled to enhance it.. make a more elegant and fitting badge for this case. So first step was to establish the center of the panel, and mark the new location of the logo. I had a few small logos cut along with all the other acrylic. Once the logo was on center and traced, it could cut it out. I made sure to keep inside the line so I can trim out to it. Initially using the dremel and then some files, I carefully removed just enough material so the logo fit snugly into the hole. Next I turned the panel over and added a piece of scrap acrylic that I scuffed up to the back of the hole. A single white led in the center should be plenty to light up the logo. I painted the center of the logo badge, but left the outer ring clear, as that is the only part I want illuminated. Here it is with the logo pieces in place over the lit acrylic backing. I didnt want to include the actual Cooler Master lettering, as it's not really necessary. Just the well-known shape of the logo is enough to identify it! Now the front panel is ready for final finishing! As I mentioned in the very first post and as shown in the concept rendering, certain parts will be done in black chrome: the webbing, top and bottom handles, and the front panel. I'll be sending these parts out to a specialty shop to get this done, since I'm not currently set up for chroming lol. Can't wait to see how they all come out! Stay tuned...
  19. 1 point
    Did you ever happen to find a solution. I am experiencing the same issue are you are. I've tried everything
  20. 1 point
    Just got a new CM Devastator II keyboard, No native Linux support for the back lighting, so the keyboard lights do not work with the "scroll lock" key like in windows. Never fear you can enable it from a terminal by typing "xset led 3" boom you have back lighting working now. Lazy mans tip.. While you have the terminal open type "touch xlights.sh" open the file with whatever you use to edit text add "xset led 3" save the shell script. Go to system settings , Then startup and shut down, select Autostart, then Add Script button on the right point it to the script you just made, then check create as symlink. Should autostart now. Enjoy
  21. 1 point
    This article is completely WRONG!!! Cooler Master sells the new AM4 mounting bracket for Hyper 212 LED in China, which is 100% compatible with both old and new version of Hyper 212 LED heat sink. I got this recently. You guys refuse to provide the new upgrading kit to west user, and LIED about it!!
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Your motherboard should be compatible, if it is ATX or smaller. Are all PSU cables connected? (And you did use the M/B standoffs, right?)
  24. 1 point
    Received this bundle today and had the same input problem. After watching a few youtube reviews I came across one video where the girl mentioned the repeat rate, F9 and F10. Once I loaded up a game I confirmed that THAT was the problem. The 8x repeat rate messes with the directional inputs. Setting it back to the standard 1x (FN+F9) fixed it right there. I could even switch between the two to make sure that it was the culprit. I hope this helps anyone who is having this problem! =)
  25. 1 point
    And I just got right about the USB UUID with a little modding I just fixed it. What I have done: -Download the latest driver and unpack it -open up "setup.ini" Why this file? the Setup checks for the device Class Guid. it won't install because it does not match.. So where can I find this? -right click speaker icon on desktop -select playback devices -double click your Speakers (Sirus Headset) -on General click on properties -once there you want to go to "Details" and select "Class Guid" This Class Guid is what is being used for the setup. Go ahead and right click it for copying and paste it without its { and } in your setup.ini and save Happy installing P.S: Can one tell me if the Guid {4d36e96c-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318} is the same for them or not. If so, I can Zip a correct installation for people to download for windows 10 Now I feel like I should get paid by CM for doing their job.. (jk jk al in good fun) EDIT: I felt so free to just zip up the installation with the changed Class Guid and slammed it on my server for people to get around their issue. I don't know if this sorts out the issue for you, but once I got replies that it actually work for them I'm happy. http://teknocatron.com/software/cm%20storm/Sirus%20AP%20for%20Win10.zip