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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/29/2013 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Calling all Modders – Cooler Master Case Mod World Series STARTS NOW. The biggest annual modding event of the year has returned – REGISTER BEFORE FEB. 7! We’re inviting all modders to show-off your creativity and push the limits of PC case design. Impressive line-up of modders worldwide making it one of the most prestigious modding contest ever. With the support of Dremel, Intel, Asus, OCZ and GeIL, we have over US$25,000 in cash and hardware prizes up for grabs. Check out the event site: http://mod.coolermaster.com/ Registration: http://mod.coolermaster.com/reg.html Prizes: http://mod.coolermaster.com/prizes.html Meet the Judges: http://mod.coolermaster.com/judges.html If you have any suggestions, feedback or issues with registration, leave a post here or email us at: mod@coolermasdter.com.tw .
  2. 5 points
    Hi all, to automatically switch on the keyboard's leds on Windows logon, there are several methods: Method 1) Launch setup_Devastator MB24.msi (attached .rar) [working on Win 7-8-8.1-10]: thanks to Breaz _____________________________________________________________________________________________ Simply decompress the rar file and launch the installer. Method 2) Put vbs script in Startup Folder [it seems that isn't working on Win 7 but is OK for Win 10]: __________________________________________________________________________________________ Put the script in Windows startup folder (hidden folder), your start folder is in ​C:\Users\(account name)\AppData\Roaming\Microsoft\Windows\Start Menu\Programs\Startup [Note: first rename scrlock.txt in scrlock.vbs] Restart Windows. Method 3) Using Group Editor [working fine on Win 10]: __________________________________________________ Launch Group Editor in Start menu (gpedit.msc), go in USER CONFIGURATION > WINDOWS SETTINGS > SCRIPTS (LOGON / LOGOFF). Double click on the option LOGON and ADD. There putting the script .vbs (with full path) [Note: first rename scrlock.txt in scrlock.vbs] Restart Windows. Method 4) Using values on Windows Registry: _________________________________________ You can actually set this string value to any value from 0 – 7 (default is 2), depending on your needs: 0 – Turn off all keyboard indicators 1 – Turn on Caps Lock 2 – Turn on Num Lock 3 – Turn on Caps Lock and Num Lock 4 – Turn on Scroll Lock 5 – Turn on Caps Lock and Scroll Lock 6 – Turn on Num Lock and Scroll Lock <------- 7 – Turn on all keyboard indicators Launch Registry Editor in Start menu (regedit.exe), you can put this value on: - for all the users on the machine: HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Control Panel\Keyboard\InitialKeyboardIndicators - for the current user: HKEY_USERS\.DEFAULT\Control Panel\Keyboard\InitialKeyboardIndicators Restart Windows. Method 5) Put the attached script at startup on Windows Registry: ____________________________________________________________ You can start a vbscipt from registry or startup by: WScript C:\somefloder\somefolder2\yourscript.vbs Launch Registry Editor in Start menu (regedit.exe), you can put this line in a value on: - for all the users on the machine: HKLOCALMACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run - for the current user: HKCURRENTUSER\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run [Note: first rename scrlock.txt in scrlock.vbs] Restart Windows. Best regards SMDB scrlock.txt setup_Devastator MB24.rar
  3. 5 points
    Oy! This mod is something that I've been wanting to build for some time. It is a tribute to the cooler master ammo 533 case. The project is going to be an evolution from the Ammo series, both from an engineering and design standpoint. Personally I have been part of the Mekatronix Works (mktrx) case-mod team. We've previously participated in a number of regional events, in the last couple of years. Before that it was mostly custom watercooling and jerry-rigging our cases to fit the components. I am going to be using a similar HW monitor display system, in-build into the case as one of our previous projects "Tek'tonic III" (link below) The previous builds I have worked at were more of an abstract design and served no purpose in utility. With this competition I have the chance to build my system into something that will feed the nostalgia of my lanparty days. The materials I will be using: Aluminium, Plexi, Dibond and Carbon fiber reinforced ABS. previous builds: Tek'tonic Tek'tonic III Rog COOPER
  4. 5 points
    Good afternoon friends! I would like to present my project under the name of Alien who i started doing on 9.02.2017.This is my first project but i think it should turn out interestingly. The first steps of the project were to create a sculpture. MUCH WORK WILL STILL BE EXECUTED IN THE PROCESS OF CREATION.
  5. 5 points
    Final photo of the project Alien Xenomórph.
  6. 5 points
    Work on the project is boiling, new details are added. There will be dynamics settings, as well as a led matrix Lg will be installed.
  7. 5 points
    All parts are smeared, polished and adjusted to each other.
  8. 5 points
    Good afternoon I add new details of the project, I made a tank for the water cooling system, it is a glass vessel with an internal channel made in the form of a spiral. Initially it was about 30cm in length, so I had to reduce it. Now it turned out 16cm in length. There was a lot of work , As the glass is badly cut and cracked, it is very but it all ended well.
  9. 5 points
  10. 5 points
    Thank you. There are still a lot of work to be done, many mistakes I make for the first time. I hope everything will work out. If you have any questions, please contact me. I will be glad to share my experience.
  11. 5 points
    Received this bundle today and had the same input problem. After watching a few youtube reviews I came across one video where the girl mentioned the repeat rate, F9 and F10. Once I loaded up a game I confirmed that THAT was the problem. The 8x repeat rate messes with the directional inputs. Setting it back to the standard 1x (FN+F9) fixed it right there. I could even switch between the two to make sure that it was the culprit. I hope this helps anyone who is having this problem! =)
  12. 5 points
    https://youtu.be/YRK6j18TY0k Preview trihexa 666 final product. About me : Concept : The concept is to Design something completely out of the ordinary using material or means that has never been used in the computer case mod scene and to introduce something unique to the field keeping in mind to keep the cost as low as possible so that anyone can build something cool that can match or even exceed the looks of a regular pricey build with the expensive luxuries that most new modders tend to lack that keeps them form ever trying. So i thought why not do an Assemble art, something the PC case mod scene has seen less of, and to do that using old used vehicle parts and scrap metal. throughout this build, the aspects of assemble art , sculpting, fiberglass and some techniques of painting is used accordingly to complete the design intended. The Design : I have always been fascinated by dragons, mythical beasts of destruction and power that has always been in stories told almost all around the world, and those used in most of the movies, games or even anime that i have come across that has used dragons in many shapes and forms. so this fascination and interest in these fantasy based creatures led me to design this form of the skeletal structure of a wayvern dragon and use it in combination of sci_Fi and mythical aspects to create one cool looking beast that is ready to rip someone apart . 01. this is a completely different shape than what you usually see on a computer case which in my opinion is the whole reason of the scratch build. to build shapes and forms that you usually don't see on stock computers off the shelf. 02. i wanted to build a custom water cooling that can enhance the looks of this mod by a huge scale, but sadly my budget is not that great coming into this build and importing things like custom water pumps, clamps and so on which is hard to find here is out of the question, so i kept that in mind as well to make it look as good as possible and leave enough space unseen, so it can be later on upgraded to a custom water cooling array if i ever get a chance or resources . 03. The components attached to the rig should be better and new micro itx parts with dual SSD drives and a new better graphics card that can enhance the performance with less heat issues and with them the whole custom cooling array must be adjusted accordingly for maximum visual and performance preferably a master air maker 8 or a v8gts, but currently that kinda tech is out of my reach but i will not let that little nuance get to me, from finishing this mod so i used the components of the old gaming rig i have and fitted it with a new cm seidon 120v water-cooler and jetflo red fans "The ribs on the front side of the casing can be lifted up and extended fully to do any type of upgrade". "Enough with the theatrics, the jig is up, lets get to work captain hook!" The Material : The material that is used in this build are used vehicle parts like chains razor wheels, engine wheels, shock absorbers' and scrap metal like barrel lid sealing rims etc, For the head i wanted to go to a more traditional approach, because the head is what defines a dragon and its fierceness so using earthen clay used in pottery the mold is sculptured and then using fiberglass resin a proper mask is made. this will give us more flexibility in wiring and using light effects as well as reduce weight to balance the whole structure. i will later explain this in detail with pictures. Step 01- Gathering proper material and creating the basic design. (April 26th) To gather material a visit to some of the local scrap yards was needed. creating an assemble art is not so simple like the usual build where you can always Pre-plan everything and start building it. the definition of an assemble art is to use the exact shapes and forms of the stuff that man made, be it may an engine of a motor bike or a tire of a car and use them to form a sculpture or a shape using those parts that has natural shapes to them in a creative way. so to conclude there is no exact part that i can say would work, everything is a piece of art hidden in themselves, a definitive shape. and each and every assemble art is unique in its own way. so what we were looking for was those shapes hidden among the metal rubble that can form TriHexa in all its glory. haha posting all these golden material would look like trash to some so i will post only the ones that was chosen in this build and later on do a detaild explanation on where each part is used. so the material that has been picked was brought back and i used some rust removing chemical as well as kerosene and liberal application of coca cola to remove all the grime rust and grease from the most obvious parts. keep in mind that when the build is halfway done i intend to do a thorough sanding and cleaning again before applying a primer paint and putty that is used on vehicles. its a gruesome sight so ill just get on with it. I will post photos of the 35% finished build and do a backwards explanation on how its made. before the explanation, i should state that the hardest part of this design was restraining myself to keep this build in a smaller and compact scale as possible so it can stand in almost any place a regular tower design can stand. the possibilities of building a larger and way cooler looking dragon out of bigger vehicle parts were endless but i had to make it look cool and practical at the same time so this is the best size i came up with and the lack of better resources played a bigger part in most of the choices made as i was only able to start this project on the latter parts of last month so i had to improvise in many ways as i can. The tools that were used here are : 01. A Grinder 02. A welding machine. 03. A drill 04. Carving Tools (Sculpting tools) 05.Day today tools like the hammer screwdrivers etc. No automated equipment were used in this build what so ever other than the hand held devices mentioned above. and its certified 100% built from hand. The following images are obviously self explanatory, but ill describe them anyways. so first off, after scaling everything up the old inner shell of a tower casing was cut apart, This will be used horizontally in the build and it is the whole length of the rib cage. it should be stated that i used this specific type of casing other than making a custom support case so this computer can be upgraded on a later stage at will without any hindrance and to avoid loosing what valuable little time i have. the cut off part of the casing was reinforced with quarter inch steel rods for extra support and later on to help with the welding. (The welding seams might not be the best looking ones in the world but it got the job done considering most of the tools were gazillion years old that i rented or burrowed and i am thankful to them ). after cutting off some vents for where the fans are mounted, another steel rod was welded down. This one in the shape of a back bone so that the assembly can be smooth and the stance i was looking for can be achieved. to explain some of the parts used in this Assembly i will explain each and every part so anyone can understand where those parts are originally used on. (i am no expert mechanic on vehicles or anything but i will do my best to name every part that is welded to form the artwork. "These items were picked on the spot from the scrap yard, any of these were not pre planned choices as i mentioned above". The back bone and the tail is made from different sizes of chains and a nickel belt that i think came from motor bikes and other industrial machinery. The ribs are made from metal clamp rims used on plastic and steel barrels splitting them in the middle so the form of the rib is made and also the lock part of that rim has a distinct shape of a scale so it was cut off and used as the scales as shown in the picture. front and hind legs are made from a Three wheeler's or (TukTuk as many know it) inner wheel's pressure plates , brake pads or plates what ever the exact name is and shockabsorbers and its decorated with engine cog wheels, Razor wheels, metal clamps and pulley harnesses used on lamp posts (i don't know the exact name of them) The tail is weld locked so it stays in place without any support as it should. its made from two equal sizes of normal bicycle chains and a chainsaw chain running in the middle as the scaly part. on to the painting. " as i mentioned above everything was cleaned and sanded down. then a brown oil primer coat was applied to stop any of the rust from re appearing ever again, then using body filler some of the bad areas got fixed but i wanted to make sure that we didn't dill all of them because then it would loose the artistic value and the effect the metal had altogether. also some of the areas were left with just a little sanding done because i wanted that exact texture for the painting effect i had in mind. for the effects first off the whole structure is spray painted with a flat black i purposefully left some areas with little to no black paint because the brown oil primer underneath will always give a good rusted effect. then with a cloth rag and some rough sanding papers a dry brush i painted weatherboard metal look which was later on coaled with a clear cote to finish it off." "i was thinking about what to use for the tail when i came across this old tool kit that was in an old storage box, and the idea came to me instantly, the interchangeable tools seemed to be rusted so i bought a new one for the sole purpose of making this mod innovative and more practical, so the idea here is i now have a tool kit at my disposal, ( fyi without rust) and not needing to look around for one when ever i need it (loosing tools around the work area is a whole other story though ") "i used the same painting method as mentioned above in the body painting part to get that weathered weapon effect as usual the brown oil primer coat left a cool rust effect on the tail to enhance the effect and the texture i wanted ." "led light strips and lights imma use a ton of em. i wanted to make sure no wire was visible so we had to spend at-least 24 hours to get all these lights and effects in order and in the most clean and neat way as humanly possible. everything was sleeved to a high quality and i used industrial grade highest quality wires in the wiring" "my old power supply is getting a face lift. (it seems so happy )" The psu got a new paint job new flex hose wiring and heat shrink sleeving. as well as a new red led cooling fan Thank you for watching!.
  13. 5 points
    Hi guys, Me again. im starting a new build for Asus and Cooler Master that will be set on display at Computex 2014. it will feature the Z97 Sabertooth and the new Devil's Canyon Processor (which i cannot include pics of yet until NDA is released). I only have 2 weeks to complete the project, so this will be a really quick ride. i hope you will join me again. thank you to the sponsors: what i will be working with: Build logs will follow shortly. =) THANK YOU! =)
  14. 4 points
    As many of you know our MasterKeys Pro L and Pro S have been launched since last week and there are circling some questions around this and other forums so I figured to bundle as much as possible into 1 big mega post and thread! To start off, hereby a nice link to our launch video; For some impressions and reviews below: - Keychatter: https://www.keychatter.com/2016/03/14/review-cooler-master-masterkeys-pro-l-s/#buying - Bit-tech: http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/peripherals/2016/03/15/cooler-master-masterkeys-pro-l-review/1 - Pauls Hardware: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1v2-fZSqZNw'>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1v2-fZSqZNw --- If you have any questions feel free to post em here and we will make sure to answer as much as possible! Below already some FAQ's answered! Q: What is the difference between the Pro L and the Pro S A: The MasterKeys Pro L is the full-size version, the Pro S is the tenkeyless version (aka no numpad) Q: Which switches will be available? A: This will vary per region but starting off with Cherry MX Brown and Cherry MX Red, but also Cherry MX Blue will be added. For local availability you can always ask us directly and we can check for you! You can also always check our own online stores directly: www.cmstore.eu/'>www.cmstore.eu/ (Europe) / www.cmstore-usa.com/'>www.cmstore-usa.com/ (North America) / www.store.coolermaster.com/'>www.store.coolermaster.com/ (APAC) Q: RGB mechanical just now? Isn't Cooler Master a bit late? A: Well, yes. But for a good reason, we werent happy with the RGB LED brightness of existing keyboards based on Cherry MX RGB switches, and on the other hand we also do not want to use other switches then the proven, german made, quality switches. So we could have gone with different non-Cherry Switches and good brightness or with Cherry Switches and dull backlight. Of course, both were no option so we started working on a keyboard that is implimenting the Cherry RGB switches that would fit with bigger and brighter RGB LEDs. Now you no longer have to choose between brightness or switches, you can have all in one product: The MasterKeys Pro RGB Q: Since your naming with S and L hints of their also in the near future a M version being available, can you share anything about it? A: Correct, we will be looking into completing our entire portfolio, but it will not be here soon. For now the S (TKL) and L (full-size) are the ones we will offer. --- Feel free to share your pictures of your MasterKeys Pro RGB here as well, and of course also your own created LED modes and profiles!
  15. 4 points
    Hi guys! I´m new here! My name´s Jaqueline (Jack for short) and I´m part of CM Modding Team. Today I wanted to show you my first casemod project on the Scratch category, but first I´d like to thank some brands that believed in my work and that decided to be my partners on this project, like Cooler Master, Gigabyte. Cooler Master, Gigabyte The case I´m gonna use is a Cooler Master Elite 110 Watercooler Seidon 120 V Hardware: HyperX Savage DDR4 16GB Cpu i5 6600k SSD VGA: MOBO: The project is inspired by the Magic: The Gathering Kaladesh trailer, specifically the Filigree Familiar, an artifact fox-like creature. Some steps of the building proccess... Lots of EVA and styrofoam... Lots of freehand drawings... Lots of sleepless nights... It´s a real puzzle, don´t you think? And when the molds work out, I get trully happy... The EVA runs rings around me! I´ll post more step-by-step pictures and videos soon! Hi darlings, let´s continue with the project? At this moment I´m cutting some acrylic molds and it turned out to be really hard work! But let´s focus, we´re getting to the painting and finishing steps. I finally got the time and I edited this video with a small part of the casemod process I hope you like it .... I'm back, with one more step in the project, I would like to thank everyone who is following the posts !! :clap: Cut time... I will use these mesh and acrylic for the finishing of the structure Eyes of the project... With patience and hard work I´ll get there. Structure mounted and glued still missing some minor repairs and paints. I hope you like the result :clap::clap::clap: Time to place the screens on the casemod structure Final results after glueing and drying Returning to work carving rest of parts in eva... :rock: Last test of the EVA parts before starting the painting and the finishing acrylics ... Painting moment I want to work with aging pieces .. Preparing the cutting of acrylics Modeling the acrylics on the fox's head With much patience we are giving life to the cabinet Thermal blower is life Hello my friends come show the completion of the head of my project I hope, soon I will publish all his photos ...
  16. 4 points
    I would like to thank everyone who supported me from the beginning til now Specially to EVGA and Cooler Master Philippines for their continuous support. Here's the final pics of the build.
  17. 4 points
    Loads to say about the work in this post: The exterior walls are constructed from plexiglass. I sanded down both sides and applied a coat of white paint to the side facing in and two layers of white and black of vinyl to the outside. The top-most, black layer, of vinyl was laser-cut at low power thus producing the design you see. The sanding and layers of paint and vinyl allow light injected through the sides to bounce around inside the sheet of plexi and seep out uniformly where the black vinyl layer was cut away. The graphics card got its own special treatment. I removed card's plastic shroud to allow the fans to sit flush against the side-panel bringing in plenty of fresh cool air. Since the card is mounted at the center of the panel, two output ports: hdmi and displayport were brought to the exterior with extension cables.
  18. 4 points
    Completion of the work log! The final report.
  19. 4 points
    Figured it was about time i got a handle on things. I started off by designing the part with a look reminiscent of a peli case. I then proceeded to 3d print the components from carbon fiber reinforced filament for added strength and support. The outer shell is assembled around an aluminium pipe core to give it a solid foundation before being primed with filler, sanded down and painted over.
  20. 4 points
    Main body of work on the pulley system got finished today. I started off by 3d printing, separating, and hand finishing a few sets of timing pulleys. Some metal work followed. I cut up some aluminium pipe and steel threaded rod. Assembled the pulley system using a bucket load of nuts and screws.
  21. 4 points
    Hi guys, I'm thinking about to to release the tool I develop last year for MasterKey RGB profile, since CM currently have no plan to update software related to custom RGB profile. So I thought it will be a good idea to release the tool I build for people who want to create they own lighting effect but have no idea how to deal with C++ SDK. The tool itself is still being the same state as last year(not polished, and some function are be not implement). It current support static, dynamic, reactive effect. Reactive effect's position, scale, color tone can react to keypress, number of key pressed, variable(CPU/GPU temperature, CSGO Health/Armor for now). Work on MasterKey Pro S/M(which I own). Need some feedback from you guys to determine should I continue the development or not. short video demo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37_T1PFwTq8
  22. 4 points
    Hi, I continue to work the parts, then all connections will be glued and plastered.
  23. 4 points
    This post was initially reserved for the final submission shots, that time has now come. I give you MKTRX Ammo 315, the ultimate lan-party rig:
  24. 4 points
    Hi Friends, Almost all parts of the model were made and removed from the matrix. After that, grinding is required and giving some parts a more embossed shape.
  25. 4 points
    I plan to make a small retractable jaw, that it would come out of the mouth, like in the movie.I made a small jaw but it was too small, so I had to redo it. The pull-out mechanism for the jaw is expected to recover from the old dvd of the player.
  26. 4 points
  27. 4 points
    Hi Everyone, I have gathered/summarized a few availble options that you can try to fix the issue of the Sirus 5.1 on Windows 10. Incl. a 1. Sirus 5.1 Driver for Windows 10 (BETA): See attached file - "AP for Windows 10.rar" 2. Alternative driver for Sirus 5.1 on Windows 10: http://community.coolermaster.com/index.php/topic/14755-sirus-51-alternative-driver-for-windows-10/ 3. Alternative Driver provided by Teckno Carton: http://community.coolermaster.com/index.php/topic/13322-cooler-master-storm-sirus-51-windows-10-problem/page-4 4. Options/Settings tweaking by Hetsig: http://community.coolermaster.com/index.php/topic/14755-sirus-51-alternative-driver-for-windows-10/#entry125202 Regards, Bram AP for Windows 10.rar
  28. 4 points
  29. 4 points
    I posted a step by step photo journal of a very simple mod that allows the successful installation if the Nepton 280L in a HAF X 942 A more detailed account is posted in the "CASE" topic in the CM Forum. I've attached a few photos of the results. Tried pasting the original post here, but that doesn't work. Also tried to use a URL in the IMAGE option box but that stalled too. ... since I can't find the original, more detailed post I wanted to state a few other points not depicted in these two photos. - The mounting bar is bevel cut on two corners to clear the top fan rings. - I took care selecting the mounting bar thickness so there would e no interference with the rotating top-fan blades.
  30. 4 points
    Hey guys, made an unboxing video of Coolermaster Cosmos SE and I installed V1000 PSU on it
  31. 4 points
    As we have seen thus far, CM V-series have been a hit with enthusiasts what with it's lower than standard prices for a PSU of it's caliber. Moving forward they have launched a new model based on Seasonic's XP3 platform which has up to 1200W power output. So, OK, there have been 1200W platinum PSUs before. (Corsair AX1200i) But, this is far cheaper. What do we lose for that amount of money? Not really a lot, all you lose is usb monitoring & configuration which, in my experience with Corsair Link is that it hardly works when you want it to. Let me get to the unboxing CoolerMaster is in fact advertising it as a mining power supply AND a analog PWM PSU that beats out digital power supplies in stability. According to CoolerMaster it has 1% voltage regulation on the 12v rail. Will this perfect a score on jonnyguru by the Wolf? I don't know. CM claims you can save a money with a platinum power supply, the issue with that claim is that there aren't many smaller platinum power supplies. They tend to be ginormous most of the time or expensive because it's fanless so if you have a small computer you can't save any money going to a platinum power supply over time besides the obvious fact that only a couple of Seasonic Platinums are brought in locally. It's hard for me to say that auto/hybrid fan control is a first but what I must add is that putting the switch on a PCI bracket is rather a bit ... foolish. Have you ever reached to the PCI slots to turn the switch? Couldn't they have done what Seasonic did and left the switch on the power supply? I don't know. Good thing the default mode is hybrid instead of auto, could be a bad thing or a good thing what do you think? Here's the inner box. Nothing to see here. Marks of an obvious seasonic manufactured PSU, if you look at most seasonic boxes they have this smiley face. Will it cut me if I open the box? No it didn't. And in the box there is the PSU covered well under soft foam in a nice bag as well as the accessories along with the hybrid fan controller and the cables bag. As well as the user manual These are the cable bags. I like that they used all ribbon cables. (apart from the 24pin as that would be a nightmare to manage) 24pin ATX cable is black on the inside and sleeved on the outside A look of the modular connector section. Believe it or not but every connector is utilized in this PSU, unlike the Seasonic Platinum 1200 which is 1 less PEG plug compared to the V1200 It must said, CoolerMaster is a bit late to bring out a Mining-oriented PSU considering the market has already died down considerably. (I did see this PSU a while back already though ...) The sides are printed not printed on a sticker and then pasted on. Nice quality touch. This is the CM V1200's fan grille. It is actually a aluminium plate above the PSU and the plate along with the fan is bolted onto the PSU's chassis This is the fan that cools the unit it's a FDB bearing 135mm fan from Protechnic. These aren't the best fans in use for a PSU but it gets the job done well. It's a shame it isn't PWM controlled like the delta-built PSUs from Antec but only Delta uses PWM fans Plan view. Simple dark background info sticker. Not shown are normal screws used to secure the PSU to the case, not so good as even a FSP Aurum S has thumbscrews for that job. But zipties are provided in the package which is a real surprise but nonetheless a good addition, I always run out of zip ties on smaller cases but clearly this PSU is meant for a big chassis. For more explanation on what 1200w+125w = 1200w of course, it is a VRM technology utilizing PSU that taps off the 12V line to convert for the peripheral voltages. this is more efficient and maintains tight regulation irrespective of load on other voltages and you can get full power out of 12V which is what is used all the time these days About the -12V voltage line, when will the ATX 12V spec get rid of it? It's not used AFAIK. 5VSB is the supply line that supplies your motherboard when the main 12V is switched off. A unstable 5VSB leads in a dead motherboard Rounding up the unboxing and review I would like to say that this is a really well-built PSU albeit rather heavy but the heft feels nice. Techpowerup has given a 9.5/10 rating for this PSU so this goes to show how good this PSU is. Here it is : http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/CoolerMaster/V1200/1.html Upsides? It's small for what it does. Quiet Clean design and not extremely weird looking like a Thermaltake DPS Cheap as in sensibly-priced. It's by no means a cheap PSU but it's sensibly priced and cheaper than it's competitors of the same caliber and has performance to back that up Quality build and has a nice heft to it. Downsides? The PCI mounted fan mode controller is the only issue with the power supply. I have installed it in my rig but will most? I don't think most would even bother. Wrapping up : I have to say this is a really good value power supply if you use a Tri-Fire/Tri-SLI system Built well and looks great. Would you buy one anytime soon?
  32. 3 points
    I recently bought the Masterset MS121 in order to use it to control my late 2016 MacBook Pro With the touch bar. However, I found that the keyboard did not work at all. It does not light up or show any form of life. I have plugged it into a windows PC an I have found that it works on that, then I plugged it into an iMac and it doesn't work there either. Is there any way that I can get it working on Mac or will I have to get a refund? Are any of the CM keyboards Mac compatible? Thanks in advance.
  33. 3 points
    Hello everyone, I am very happy to announce Firmware v119. We have teamed up with motherboard manufacturers to solve the 'No Boot- startup problem'. Download the latest Firmware today: Version: Firmware V.119 (EU ISO layouts, 88 Keys) Release Date 2014-12-04 Language English File Size 1.32 MB Description 88 keys; for language layouts of DE,FR,GR,IT,ND,SB,SP,TR,UK Download http://assets.cooler...ack-v119-uk.zip Version: Firmware V.119 (US ANSI layouts, 87 keys) Release Date 2014-12-04 Language Multi languages support File Size 1.32 MB Description 87 keys; for language layouts of AF,RU.TA,TC,US,UI,CZ,SK Download http://assets.cooler...ack-v119-us.zip Also I would like to thank everyone for reporting the problem. We really appreciate it! Now go go go! 'Update your QuickFire Rapid-i Disco board. Cheers, Pim
  34. 3 points
  35. 3 points
    Assembling components for a PC, install scarecrow brains, that he could now think
  36. 3 points
    So, the final meeting and the completion of the image began.
  37. 3 points
    Needed a distribution board for the RGB LED strips. Started off with a bare copper clad board and applied a layer of paint as masking. The PCB was then laser and chemically etched before applying a final acetone treatment to remove the paint masking. All that remains is to drill the holes and solder on the pin headers. Since this is a single layer PCB the headers will have to go on the reverse side.
  38. 3 points
  39. 3 points
    I make fastening, from an aluminum corner, for Cooler Master Masterliquid 240.
  40. 3 points
    Yes! That came this wonderful Cooler Master Masterliquid 240 MAD project GOOSE! Excellent system! I am very happy! Rather set!
  41. 3 points
    Hello friends! Decided to make changes in the design and add ventilation windows, for blowing out warm air.
  42. 3 points
    Hello friends decided to put a little pictures of the work done over the past week. Matrixes made of fiberglass, with epoxy resin, were made. There are a lot of work done, but in front there is not less.
  43. 3 points
    I GOT IT!!!! FINALLY!! The support didn't help, just told me to return it (as always) which was not an option as I bought it in Bangkok and live in Australia. Anyway, there was another thread on this and the guy said he just waited. Well I have waited 2 months at least with nothing, when randomly, when my PC was turned off, the lights went red. I turned on my PC in hope but the lights turned off. I pressed right click and DPI but nothing happened. Then, in a last shot of desperation I pressed the DPI and the scroll wheel when the lights finally turned on to pulse mode. I then followed the instructions in the manual to change it to static cyan just how I like it. Now, for the red lights to appear I had to plug the mouse into the 'always getting power USB port' on my motherboard, so that when the PC was off the mouse was receiving power but no data. Most laptops and decent desktops have this port. It can usually be identified by a Lightning bolt next to the usb port. Hopefully this helps someone.
  44. 3 points
    Testing servo sistem Progress after assembly of all parts listed above
  45. 3 points
    i made a software for windows 7,8,8.1,10 for automatic backlight on start up.... if someone need is here :-) PS: you must reboot pc after instalation setup_Devastator MB24.rar
  46. 3 points
    I'm not sure. Probably within a week.
  47. 3 points
    Engraving your case is an incredibly rewarding thing to do to your case. It's one of the best ways of adding a totally unique feature and to make it stand out from the rest. You can engrave practically any design onto a metal section of your case. Best results are achieved with a painted/powdercoated/annodised case (most black cases have black powdercoated side panels). You'll need a selection of engraving tips for this task. The larger ball tips are good for engraving/shading large areas, while smaller nibs or tips can be useful for tracing outlines for crisp edges. We'll be using the template/transfer method, whereby you print your logo or image to be engraved onto a piece of paper, and use this as a guide to engrave your design onto your case. Logos like Cooler Master are fairly easy to trace. However if you want to engrave a more complicated images, say a fighter jet, you fist need to perform a bit of photo editing. Don't worry, it's quite easy and all you need is the free editing program called Paint.net [download here] Install and open paint then load your image. Under Adjustments, select and apply Invert Colours. Now go to the Effects menu and under artistic, select Ink Sketch. If need be adjust the Ink Outline slider bar to reduce the noise in the photo. Now go back and invert the colours again. This will have the effect of creating bold outlines and details that are easy to follow when you're engraving. For our example we've used a simple Cooler Master logo. All you need to do is print it out. Trim the paper to size so you can tape it to your case at the edges. Ensure there are no ripples in the paper and that it's secured firmly - you don't want it moving around while you are engraving. Make sure the area you intend to engrave is flat and free of features such as grilles or windows. The easiest way to engrave is to use a Dremel with a Flexible attachment. This allows you to use the engraving tip like a pen, which means the rest is as easy as colouring in a picture. It also means you're able to be far more accurate as using a Dremel alone is quite heavy and awkward to use. Before you start work on your image, get used to the various tips and how quickly they cut into the paint and metal. If possible use a hidden section of the case or old case to practice on. Start in the middle of the image and work your way out. In our example we began with the letters of the logo, tracing their outlines but doing any inner details first. Once you cut the outline the letter will come loose. Use the detail tip for the edges and the large ball tip for shading in the larger areas. You'll gradually work your way through the paper and reveal the bear metal beneath the paint. Once you do this, move on to other areas, focussing on keeping within your template. Once you're done with the letters, move on to the external ring. Once you cut through this, the whole template will come away so it's best to do this last. You'll probably need to remove the template and make some finishing touches to the engraving, clearing away any old paint from the silver letters so the look the same colour all over. If you've strayed into areas you didn't mean to engrave, you can touch these up with a black marker pen or paint brush. That's it! The great thing about engraving is that you can do it to practically any area of your case and the more you practice the better you'll get.
  48. 3 points
    Hi CM I'm Hungarian. This computer is my Trabant scale replica. Scale approx. 1: 5 The whole machine designed in Solidworks by myself. Used Equipment .: Own designed and building CNC milling machine and vacuum machine. (I'm very proud of this.) Conventional Lathe. CO welding machine. Flame soldering. Hand putty and sanding ,assembling and paint. config .: P8P67-M PRO motherboard 16 GB of RAM, I7 Processor 2600 96 GB Kingston SSD WD320 HDD FirePro W5000 Video Card Corsair vs 550 Power supply 1.0 version(air cooler) Cooler master hyper tx3 Cpu cooler 2.0 version(water cooler) Cooler master hyper tx3 only cooler fan In storage case 2 piece Cooler master DF20030-07CB-3MN-F1 cooler fan SolidWorks plan picture and video.: My CNC milling machines.: http://logout.hu/cikk/ferrari_v12_pc/cnc_marogep.html Car body parts and vacuum form milling and welding.: Vacuum forming video.: Items experimentation and production of wheels.: Lamps and hinges production.: Putty sanding and painting.: Assembling 1.0 air cooling.: Assembling 2.0 water cooling. Water pump crankshaft and connecting rod.: Valves ,cylinder head and block.: Ignition control (led lamp) and clutch.: Water pump test video.: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHHSlFS_qV4 Trabant Pc video.: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNPOjaEGNps Pictures.: Thank you for watching! http://banditools.hu/
  49. 3 points
    Now, time to take apart my existing mini ITX systems and put em all in the desk. I became a kid again in this process. As if I just got a new gundam model and I am about to do the assembly. This was my first time doing a hard line loop for a system, so some of the bends that I got we're not that perfect, but overall, I was happy about it! And I forgot that some fittings will require the tubes to be sanded down to be able to fit them to the fittings. I got frustrated doing this, so I bought crystal link tubing for this project to avoid another time consuming task for the hard line loop. It leak test time! These is the bottom part of the desk. A friend suggested to me that it will be a shame to cover up the bottom part of the desk and instead, make something that will show the bottom of the desk while being the mounting spot for the fresh air intake fans. So i decided to use a acrylic sheet as the bottom cover and make some fan holes for the fresh air intake fans. Which came out really well. After doing and passing the leak test, I then decided to finish up the build and see if the systems will boot up properly, which thankfully, it did. The blue led light was kinda killing the "green glow" that I wanted. So I was thinking of just taking all the blue led light inside the desk, but then this came in to my head. So I went out and bought a box of privacy window film and use it at the acrylic cover of the desk. And it kinda adds a little bit more "geekiness" in the build. You wont see what's inside the desk unless you turn on the lights inside the desk. And finally (but sadly), the build process came in to an end. Overall, I was happy with the outcome. The desk is doing what is design and supposed to do. Here's the final photos of my build. Thank you guys for taking your time reading through my build log and hopefully I inspired someone with this build. And again I apologize for the quality of the photos. Thank you again and good luck with your current and up coming builds! And if you have any suggestions or tips or advice, please feel free to drop a comment!
  50. 3 points
    January 2015. That's all I can say for now.