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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/29/2013 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Calling all Modders – Cooler Master Case Mod World Series STARTS NOW. The biggest annual modding event of the year has returned – REGISTER BEFORE FEB. 7! We’re inviting all modders to show-off your creativity and push the limits of PC case design. Impressive line-up of modders worldwide making it one of the most prestigious modding contest ever. With the support of Dremel, Intel, Asus, OCZ and GeIL, we have over US$25,000 in cash and hardware prizes up for grabs. Check out the event site: http://mod.coolermaster.com/ Registration: http://mod.coolermaster.com/reg.html Prizes: http://mod.coolermaster.com/prizes.html Meet the Judges: http://mod.coolermaster.com/judges.html If you have any suggestions, feedback or issues with registration, leave a post here or email us at: mod@coolermasdter.com.tw .
  2. 5 points
    Hi all, to automatically switch on the keyboard's leds on Windows logon, there are several methods: Method 1) Launch setup_Devastator MB24.msi (attached .rar) [working on Win 7-8-8.1-10]: thanks to Breaz _____________________________________________________________________________________________ Simply decompress the rar file and launch the installer. Method 2) Put vbs script in Startup Folder [it seems that isn't working on Win 7 but is OK for Win 10]: __________________________________________________________________________________________ Put the script in Windows startup folder (hidden folder), your start folder is in ​C:\Users\(account name)\AppData\Roaming\Microsoft\Windows\Start Menu\Programs\Startup [Note: first rename scrlock.txt in scrlock.vbs] Restart Windows. Method 3) Using Group Editor [working fine on Win 10]: __________________________________________________ Launch Group Editor in Start menu (gpedit.msc), go in USER CONFIGURATION > WINDOWS SETTINGS > SCRIPTS (LOGON / LOGOFF). Double click on the option LOGON and ADD. There putting the script .vbs (with full path) [Note: first rename scrlock.txt in scrlock.vbs] Restart Windows. Method 4) Using values on Windows Registry: _________________________________________ You can actually set this string value to any value from 0 – 7 (default is 2), depending on your needs: 0 – Turn off all keyboard indicators 1 – Turn on Caps Lock 2 – Turn on Num Lock 3 – Turn on Caps Lock and Num Lock 4 – Turn on Scroll Lock 5 – Turn on Caps Lock and Scroll Lock 6 – Turn on Num Lock and Scroll Lock <------- 7 – Turn on all keyboard indicators Launch Registry Editor in Start menu (regedit.exe), you can put this value on: - for all the users on the machine: HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Control Panel\Keyboard\InitialKeyboardIndicators - for the current user: HKEY_USERS\.DEFAULT\Control Panel\Keyboard\InitialKeyboardIndicators Restart Windows. Method 5) Put the attached script at startup on Windows Registry: ____________________________________________________________ You can start a vbscipt from registry or startup by: WScript C:\somefloder\somefolder2\yourscript.vbs Launch Registry Editor in Start menu (regedit.exe), you can put this line in a value on: - for all the users on the machine: HKLOCALMACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run - for the current user: HKCURRENTUSER\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run [Note: first rename scrlock.txt in scrlock.vbs] Restart Windows. Best regards SMDB scrlock.txt setup_Devastator MB24.rar
  3. 5 points
    Good afternoon friends! I would like to present my project under the name of Alien who i started doing on 9.02.2017.This is my first project but i think it should turn out interestingly. The first steps of the project were to create a sculpture. MUCH WORK WILL STILL BE EXECUTED IN THE PROCESS OF CREATION.
  4. 5 points
  5. 5 points
    Thank you. There are still a lot of work to be done, many mistakes I make for the first time. I hope everything will work out. If you have any questions, please contact me. I will be glad to share my experience.
  6. 5 points
    https://youtu.be/YRK6j18TY0k Preview trihexa 666 final product. About me : Concept : The concept is to Design something completely out of the ordinary using material or means that has never been used in the computer case mod scene and to introduce something unique to the field keeping in mind to keep the cost as low as possible so that anyone can build something cool that can match or even exceed the looks of a regular pricey build with the expensive luxuries that most new modders tend to lack that keeps them form ever trying. So i thought why not do an Assemble art, something the PC case mod scene has seen less of, and to do that using old used vehicle parts and scrap metal. throughout this build, the aspects of assemble art , sculpting, fiberglass and some techniques of painting is used accordingly to complete the design intended. The Design : I have always been fascinated by dragons, mythical beasts of destruction and power that has always been in stories told almost all around the world, and those used in most of the movies, games or even anime that i have come across that has used dragons in many shapes and forms. so this fascination and interest in these fantasy based creatures led me to design this form of the skeletal structure of a wayvern dragon and use it in combination of sci_Fi and mythical aspects to create one cool looking beast that is ready to rip someone apart . 01. this is a completely different shape than what you usually see on a computer case which in my opinion is the whole reason of the scratch build. to build shapes and forms that you usually don't see on stock computers off the shelf. 02. i wanted to build a custom water cooling that can enhance the looks of this mod by a huge scale, but sadly my budget is not that great coming into this build and importing things like custom water pumps, clamps and so on which is hard to find here is out of the question, so i kept that in mind as well to make it look as good as possible and leave enough space unseen, so it can be later on upgraded to a custom water cooling array if i ever get a chance or resources . 03. The components attached to the rig should be better and new micro itx parts with dual SSD drives and a new better graphics card that can enhance the performance with less heat issues and with them the whole custom cooling array must be adjusted accordingly for maximum visual and performance preferably a master air maker 8 or a v8gts, but currently that kinda tech is out of my reach but i will not let that little nuance get to me, from finishing this mod so i used the components of the old gaming rig i have and fitted it with a new cm seidon 120v water-cooler and jetflo red fans "The ribs on the front side of the casing can be lifted up and extended fully to do any type of upgrade". "Enough with the theatrics, the jig is up, lets get to work captain hook!" The Material : The material that is used in this build are used vehicle parts like chains razor wheels, engine wheels, shock absorbers' and scrap metal like barrel lid sealing rims etc, For the head i wanted to go to a more traditional approach, because the head is what defines a dragon and its fierceness so using earthen clay used in pottery the mold is sculptured and then using fiberglass resin a proper mask is made. this will give us more flexibility in wiring and using light effects as well as reduce weight to balance the whole structure. i will later explain this in detail with pictures. Step 01- Gathering proper material and creating the basic design. (April 26th) To gather material a visit to some of the local scrap yards was needed. creating an assemble art is not so simple like the usual build where you can always Pre-plan everything and start building it. the definition of an assemble art is to use the exact shapes and forms of the stuff that man made, be it may an engine of a motor bike or a tire of a car and use them to form a sculpture or a shape using those parts that has natural shapes to them in a creative way. so to conclude there is no exact part that i can say would work, everything is a piece of art hidden in themselves, a definitive shape. and each and every assemble art is unique in its own way. so what we were looking for was those shapes hidden among the metal rubble that can form TriHexa in all its glory. haha posting all these golden material would look like trash to some so i will post only the ones that was chosen in this build and later on do a detaild explanation on where each part is used. so the material that has been picked was brought back and i used some rust removing chemical as well as kerosene and liberal application of coca cola to remove all the grime rust and grease from the most obvious parts. keep in mind that when the build is halfway done i intend to do a thorough sanding and cleaning again before applying a primer paint and putty that is used on vehicles. its a gruesome sight so ill just get on with it. I will post photos of the 35% finished build and do a backwards explanation on how its made. before the explanation, i should state that the hardest part of this design was restraining myself to keep this build in a smaller and compact scale as possible so it can stand in almost any place a regular tower design can stand. the possibilities of building a larger and way cooler looking dragon out of bigger vehicle parts were endless but i had to make it look cool and practical at the same time so this is the best size i came up with and the lack of better resources played a bigger part in most of the choices made as i was only able to start this project on the latter parts of last month so i had to improvise in many ways as i can. The tools that were used here are : 01. A Grinder 02. A welding machine. 03. A drill 04. Carving Tools (Sculpting tools) 05.Day today tools like the hammer screwdrivers etc. No automated equipment were used in this build what so ever other than the hand held devices mentioned above. and its certified 100% built from hand. The following images are obviously self explanatory, but ill describe them anyways. so first off, after scaling everything up the old inner shell of a tower casing was cut apart, This will be used horizontally in the build and it is the whole length of the rib cage. it should be stated that i used this specific type of casing other than making a custom support case so this computer can be upgraded on a later stage at will without any hindrance and to avoid loosing what valuable little time i have. the cut off part of the casing was reinforced with quarter inch steel rods for extra support and later on to help with the welding. (The welding seams might not be the best looking ones in the world but it got the job done considering most of the tools were gazillion years old that i rented or burrowed and i am thankful to them ). after cutting off some vents for where the fans are mounted, another steel rod was welded down. This one in the shape of a back bone so that the assembly can be smooth and the stance i was looking for can be achieved. to explain some of the parts used in this Assembly i will explain each and every part so anyone can understand where those parts are originally used on. (i am no expert mechanic on vehicles or anything but i will do my best to name every part that is welded to form the artwork. "These items were picked on the spot from the scrap yard, any of these were not pre planned choices as i mentioned above". The back bone and the tail is made from different sizes of chains and a nickel belt that i think came from motor bikes and other industrial machinery. The ribs are made from metal clamp rims used on plastic and steel barrels splitting them in the middle so the form of the rib is made and also the lock part of that rim has a distinct shape of a scale so it was cut off and used as the scales as shown in the picture. front and hind legs are made from a Three wheeler's or (TukTuk as many know it) inner wheel's pressure plates , brake pads or plates what ever the exact name is and shockabsorbers and its decorated with engine cog wheels, Razor wheels, metal clamps and pulley harnesses used on lamp posts (i don't know the exact name of them) The tail is weld locked so it stays in place without any support as it should. its made from two equal sizes of normal bicycle chains and a chainsaw chain running in the middle as the scaly part. on to the painting. " as i mentioned above everything was cleaned and sanded down. then a brown oil primer coat was applied to stop any of the rust from re appearing ever again, then using body filler some of the bad areas got fixed but i wanted to make sure that we didn't dill all of them because then it would loose the artistic value and the effect the metal had altogether. also some of the areas were left with just a little sanding done because i wanted that exact texture for the painting effect i had in mind. for the effects first off the whole structure is spray painted with a flat black i purposefully left some areas with little to no black paint because the brown oil primer underneath will always give a good rusted effect. then with a cloth rag and some rough sanding papers a dry brush i painted weatherboard metal look which was later on coaled with a clear cote to finish it off." "i was thinking about what to use for the tail when i came across this old tool kit that was in an old storage box, and the idea came to me instantly, the interchangeable tools seemed to be rusted so i bought a new one for the sole purpose of making this mod innovative and more practical, so the idea here is i now have a tool kit at my disposal, ( fyi without rust) and not needing to look around for one when ever i need it (loosing tools around the work area is a whole other story though ") "i used the same painting method as mentioned above in the body painting part to get that weathered weapon effect as usual the brown oil primer coat left a cool rust effect on the tail to enhance the effect and the texture i wanted ." "led light strips and lights imma use a ton of em. i wanted to make sure no wire was visible so we had to spend at-least 24 hours to get all these lights and effects in order and in the most clean and neat way as humanly possible. everything was sleeved to a high quality and i used industrial grade highest quality wires in the wiring" "my old power supply is getting a face lift. (it seems so happy )" The psu got a new paint job new flex hose wiring and heat shrink sleeving. as well as a new red led cooling fan Thank you for watching!.
  7. 5 points
    Hi guys, Me again. im starting a new build for Asus and Cooler Master that will be set on display at Computex 2014. it will feature the Z97 Sabertooth and the new Devil's Canyon Processor (which i cannot include pics of yet until NDA is released). I only have 2 weeks to complete the project, so this will be a really quick ride. i hope you will join me again. thank you to the sponsors: what i will be working with: Build logs will follow shortly. =) THANK YOU! =)
  8. 4 points
    As many of you know our MasterKeys Pro L and Pro S have been launched since last week and there are circling some questions around this and other forums so I figured to bundle as much as possible into 1 big mega post and thread! To start off, hereby a nice link to our launch video; For some impressions and reviews below: - Keychatter: https://www.keychatter.com/2016/03/14/review-cooler-master-masterkeys-pro-l-s/#buying - Bit-tech: http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/peripherals/2016/03/15/cooler-master-masterkeys-pro-l-review/1 - Pauls Hardware: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1v2-fZSqZNw'>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1v2-fZSqZNw --- If you have any questions feel free to post em here and we will make sure to answer as much as possible! Below already some FAQ's answered! Q: What is the difference between the Pro L and the Pro S A: The MasterKeys Pro L is the full-size version, the Pro S is the tenkeyless version (aka no numpad) Q: Which switches will be available? A: This will vary per region but starting off with Cherry MX Brown and Cherry MX Red, but also Cherry MX Blue will be added. For local availability you can always ask us directly and we can check for you! You can also always check our own online stores directly: www.cmstore.eu/'>www.cmstore.eu/ (Europe) / www.cmstore-usa.com/'>www.cmstore-usa.com/ (North America) / www.store.coolermaster.com/'>www.store.coolermaster.com/ (APAC) Q: RGB mechanical just now? Isn't Cooler Master a bit late? A: Well, yes. But for a good reason, we werent happy with the RGB LED brightness of existing keyboards based on Cherry MX RGB switches, and on the other hand we also do not want to use other switches then the proven, german made, quality switches. So we could have gone with different non-Cherry Switches and good brightness or with Cherry Switches and dull backlight. Of course, both were no option so we started working on a keyboard that is implimenting the Cherry RGB switches that would fit with bigger and brighter RGB LEDs. Now you no longer have to choose between brightness or switches, you can have all in one product: The MasterKeys Pro RGB Q: Since your naming with S and L hints of their also in the near future a M version being available, can you share anything about it? A: Correct, we will be looking into completing our entire portfolio, but it will not be here soon. For now the S (TKL) and L (full-size) are the ones we will offer. --- Feel free to share your pictures of your MasterKeys Pro RGB here as well, and of course also your own created LED modes and profiles!
  9. 4 points
    Hi guys! I´m new here! My name´s Jaqueline (Jack for short) and I´m part of CM Modding Team. Today I wanted to show you my first casemod project on the Scratch category, but first I´d like to thank some brands that believed in my work and that decided to be my partners on this project, like Cooler Master, Gigabyte. Cooler Master, Gigabyte The case I´m gonna use is a Cooler Master Elite 110 Watercooler Seidon 120 V Hardware: HyperX Savage DDR4 16GB Cpu i5 6600k SSD VGA: MOBO: The project is inspired by the Magic: The Gathering Kaladesh trailer, specifically the Filigree Familiar, an artifact fox-like creature. Some steps of the building proccess... Lots of EVA and styrofoam... Lots of freehand drawings... Lots of sleepless nights... It´s a real puzzle, don´t you think? And when the molds work out, I get trully happy... The EVA runs rings around me! I´ll post more step-by-step pictures and videos soon! Hi darlings, let´s continue with the project? At this moment I´m cutting some acrylic molds and it turned out to be really hard work! But let´s focus, we´re getting to the painting and finishing steps. I finally got the time and I edited this video with a small part of the casemod process I hope you like it .... I'm back, with one more step in the project, I would like to thank everyone who is following the posts !! :clap: Cut time... I will use these mesh and acrylic for the finishing of the structure Eyes of the project... With patience and hard work I´ll get there. Structure mounted and glued still missing some minor repairs and paints. I hope you like the result :clap::clap::clap: Time to place the screens on the casemod structure Final results after glueing and drying Returning to work carving rest of parts in eva... :rock: Last test of the EVA parts before starting the painting and the finishing acrylics ... Painting moment I want to work with aging pieces .. Preparing the cutting of acrylics Modeling the acrylics on the fox's head With much patience we are giving life to the cabinet Thermal blower is life Hello my friends come show the completion of the head of my project I hope, soon I will publish all his photos ...
  10. 4 points
  11. 4 points
    Received this bundle today and had the same input problem. After watching a few youtube reviews I came across one video where the girl mentioned the repeat rate, F9 and F10. Once I loaded up a game I confirmed that THAT was the problem. The 8x repeat rate messes with the directional inputs. Setting it back to the standard 1x (FN+F9) fixed it right there. I could even switch between the two to make sure that it was the culprit. I hope this helps anyone who is having this problem! =)
  12. 4 points
    Hi Everyone, I have gathered/summarized a few availble options that you can try to fix the issue of the Sirus 5.1 on Windows 10. Incl. a 1. Sirus 5.1 Driver for Windows 10 (BETA): See attached file - "AP for Windows 10.rar" 2. Alternative driver for Sirus 5.1 on Windows 10: http://community.coolermaster.com/index.php/topic/14755-sirus-51-alternative-driver-for-windows-10/ 3. Alternative Driver provided by Teckno Carton: http://community.coolermaster.com/index.php/topic/13322-cooler-master-storm-sirus-51-windows-10-problem/page-4 4. Options/Settings tweaking by Hetsig: http://community.coolermaster.com/index.php/topic/14755-sirus-51-alternative-driver-for-windows-10/#entry125202 Regards, Bram AP for Windows 10.rar
  13. 4 points
  14. 4 points
    I posted a step by step photo journal of a very simple mod that allows the successful installation if the Nepton 280L in a HAF X 942 A more detailed account is posted in the "CASE" topic in the CM Forum. I've attached a few photos of the results. Tried pasting the original post here, but that doesn't work. Also tried to use a URL in the IMAGE option box but that stalled too. ... since I can't find the original, more detailed post I wanted to state a few other points not depicted in these two photos. - The mounting bar is bevel cut on two corners to clear the top fan rings. - I took care selecting the mounting bar thickness so there would e no interference with the rotating top-fan blades.
  15. 4 points
    Hey guys, made an unboxing video of Coolermaster Cosmos SE and I installed V1000 PSU on it
  16. 4 points
    As we have seen thus far, CM V-series have been a hit with enthusiasts what with it's lower than standard prices for a PSU of it's caliber. Moving forward they have launched a new model based on Seasonic's XP3 platform which has up to 1200W power output. So, OK, there have been 1200W platinum PSUs before. (Corsair AX1200i) But, this is far cheaper. What do we lose for that amount of money? Not really a lot, all you lose is usb monitoring & configuration which, in my experience with Corsair Link is that it hardly works when you want it to. Let me get to the unboxing CoolerMaster is in fact advertising it as a mining power supply AND a analog PWM PSU that beats out digital power supplies in stability. According to CoolerMaster it has 1% voltage regulation on the 12v rail. Will this perfect a score on jonnyguru by the Wolf? I don't know. CM claims you can save a money with a platinum power supply, the issue with that claim is that there aren't many smaller platinum power supplies. They tend to be ginormous most of the time or expensive because it's fanless so if you have a small computer you can't save any money going to a platinum power supply over time besides the obvious fact that only a couple of Seasonic Platinums are brought in locally. It's hard for me to say that auto/hybrid fan control is a first but what I must add is that putting the switch on a PCI bracket is rather a bit ... foolish. Have you ever reached to the PCI slots to turn the switch? Couldn't they have done what Seasonic did and left the switch on the power supply? I don't know. Good thing the default mode is hybrid instead of auto, could be a bad thing or a good thing what do you think? Here's the inner box. Nothing to see here. Marks of an obvious seasonic manufactured PSU, if you look at most seasonic boxes they have this smiley face. Will it cut me if I open the box? No it didn't. And in the box there is the PSU covered well under soft foam in a nice bag as well as the accessories along with the hybrid fan controller and the cables bag. As well as the user manual These are the cable bags. I like that they used all ribbon cables. (apart from the 24pin as that would be a nightmare to manage) 24pin ATX cable is black on the inside and sleeved on the outside A look of the modular connector section. Believe it or not but every connector is utilized in this PSU, unlike the Seasonic Platinum 1200 which is 1 less PEG plug compared to the V1200 It must said, CoolerMaster is a bit late to bring out a Mining-oriented PSU considering the market has already died down considerably. (I did see this PSU a while back already though ...) The sides are printed not printed on a sticker and then pasted on. Nice quality touch. This is the CM V1200's fan grille. It is actually a aluminium plate above the PSU and the plate along with the fan is bolted onto the PSU's chassis This is the fan that cools the unit it's a FDB bearing 135mm fan from Protechnic. These aren't the best fans in use for a PSU but it gets the job done well. It's a shame it isn't PWM controlled like the delta-built PSUs from Antec but only Delta uses PWM fans Plan view. Simple dark background info sticker. Not shown are normal screws used to secure the PSU to the case, not so good as even a FSP Aurum S has thumbscrews for that job. But zipties are provided in the package which is a real surprise but nonetheless a good addition, I always run out of zip ties on smaller cases but clearly this PSU is meant for a big chassis. For more explanation on what 1200w+125w = 1200w of course, it is a VRM technology utilizing PSU that taps off the 12V line to convert for the peripheral voltages. this is more efficient and maintains tight regulation irrespective of load on other voltages and you can get full power out of 12V which is what is used all the time these days About the -12V voltage line, when will the ATX 12V spec get rid of it? It's not used AFAIK. 5VSB is the supply line that supplies your motherboard when the main 12V is switched off. A unstable 5VSB leads in a dead motherboard Rounding up the unboxing and review I would like to say that this is a really well-built PSU albeit rather heavy but the heft feels nice. Techpowerup has given a 9.5/10 rating for this PSU so this goes to show how good this PSU is. Here it is : http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/CoolerMaster/V1200/1.html Upsides? It's small for what it does. Quiet Clean design and not extremely weird looking like a Thermaltake DPS Cheap as in sensibly-priced. It's by no means a cheap PSU but it's sensibly priced and cheaper than it's competitors of the same caliber and has performance to back that up Quality build and has a nice heft to it. Downsides? The PCI mounted fan mode controller is the only issue with the power supply. I have installed it in my rig but will most? I don't think most would even bother. Wrapping up : I have to say this is a really good value power supply if you use a Tri-Fire/Tri-SLI system Built well and looks great. Would you buy one anytime soon?
  17. 3 points
    Проект "Мастерская Паровая ракета" "безумный Гусь" Загруженные Изображения
  18. 3 points
    I GOT IT!!!! FINALLY!! The support didn't help, just told me to return it (as always) which was not an option as I bought it in Bangkok and live in Australia. Anyway, there was another thread on this and the guy said he just waited. Well I have waited 2 months at least with nothing, when randomly, when my PC was turned off, the lights went red. I turned on my PC in hope but the lights turned off. I pressed right click and DPI but nothing happened. Then, in a last shot of desperation I pressed the DPI and the scroll wheel when the lights finally turned on to pulse mode. I then followed the instructions in the manual to change it to static cyan just how I like it. Now, for the red lights to appear I had to plug the mouse into the 'always getting power USB port' on my motherboard, so that when the PC was off the mouse was receiving power but no data. Most laptops and decent desktops have this port. It can usually be identified by a Lightning bolt next to the usb port. Hopefully this helps someone.
  19. 3 points
    Testing servo sistem Progress after assembly of all parts listed above
  20. 3 points
    i made a software for windows 7,8,8.1,10 for automatic backlight on start up.... if someone need is here :-) PS: you must reboot pc after instalation setup_Devastator MB24.rar
  21. 3 points
    Glowing Miami! Profile file attached, enjoy! ; ) Glowing Miami.Prf
  22. 3 points
    I'm not sure. Probably within a week.
  23. 3 points
    Welcome to my now complete build log. Hardware is: CoolerMaster Cosmos 2 airbrushed case 2 x EVGA GTX 980's SLI watercooled Asus ROG Rampage V Extreme X99 watercooled Intel i7 5930k @ 4.5GHZ watercooled 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2666mhz DDR4 Corsair AX1200i Samsung 850 Pro SSD boot 256GB 2 X 1 TB WD 10,000 RPM VELOCIRAPTORS in RAID 0 - Games 1 X 4 TB WD 7,200 RPM Green - Media Pioneer BDR-S09XLT 16x SATA Internal Blu-Ray Writer 2 x EK Full Nickel GTX 980 Waterblocks EK full nickel Evo Elite CPU Waterblock 2 x Bitspower pump and res combo, upgrade kit and mod tops (black sparkle and acrylic) All bitspower Black Sparkle fittings 2 X Alphacool D5 pumps ALL ACRYLIC TUBING 1 x 360 Alphacool Rad 1x 240 Alphacool Rad 6 x 120mm Noctua PWM Black fans 1 X 140mm Noiseblocker PK2 Fan 2 X 120mm Noiseblocker PK2 Fans LED's Various Mods
  24. 3 points
    My case mod will take us to the world of ST:TNG and the Enterprise's most fearsome enemy introduced in the second season of the series. The case I'll be modding is the Cooler Master Elite 110. The inside components will comprise a modest gaming rig, with a nod to the era that ST:TNG was new on the air by using the 20th anniversary Intel Pentium processor. Providing I don't run out of time and energy, my case mod will even include a "frickin' laser beam" in eerie Borg green of course.
  25. 3 points
    Now, time to take apart my existing mini ITX systems and put em all in the desk. I became a kid again in this process. As if I just got a new gundam model and I am about to do the assembly. This was my first time doing a hard line loop for a system, so some of the bends that I got we're not that perfect, but overall, I was happy about it! And I forgot that some fittings will require the tubes to be sanded down to be able to fit them to the fittings. I got frustrated doing this, so I bought crystal link tubing for this project to avoid another time consuming task for the hard line loop. It leak test time! These is the bottom part of the desk. A friend suggested to me that it will be a shame to cover up the bottom part of the desk and instead, make something that will show the bottom of the desk while being the mounting spot for the fresh air intake fans. So i decided to use a acrylic sheet as the bottom cover and make some fan holes for the fresh air intake fans. Which came out really well. After doing and passing the leak test, I then decided to finish up the build and see if the systems will boot up properly, which thankfully, it did. The blue led light was kinda killing the "green glow" that I wanted. So I was thinking of just taking all the blue led light inside the desk, but then this came in to my head. So I went out and bought a box of privacy window film and use it at the acrylic cover of the desk. And it kinda adds a little bit more "geekiness" in the build. You wont see what's inside the desk unless you turn on the lights inside the desk. And finally (but sadly), the build process came in to an end. Overall, I was happy with the outcome. The desk is doing what is design and supposed to do. Here's the final photos of my build. Thank you guys for taking your time reading through my build log and hopefully I inspired someone with this build. And again I apologize for the quality of the photos. Thank you again and good luck with your current and up coming builds! And if you have any suggestions or tips or advice, please feel free to drop a comment!