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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/20/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Take the theme of the human struggle against heat in the desert. just as a PC fights heat from itself. just information, all details are made by combining acrylic with varying thicknesses. do not use a 3d printing machine
  2. 3 points
    I recently bought the Masterset MS121 in order to use it to control my late 2016 MacBook Pro With the touch bar. However, I found that the keyboard did not work at all. It does not light up or show any form of life. I have plugged it into a windows PC an I have found that it works on that, then I plugged it into an iMac and it doesn't work there either. Is there any way that I can get it working on Mac or will I have to get a refund? Are any of the CM keyboards Mac compatible? Thanks in advance.
  3. 2 points
    I have pointed down psu's fan and it's fine. And u should connect fans to the splitter and splitter to the desk to some SYS_FAN. With MB530P is included just splitter to the psu, not to mobo so you should buy if you wanna control it.
  4. 2 points
    Hey, lol, I have exactly same prob with exact components.. and u should connect it to ARGB header, not RGB. But I did it and it didnt help me... Idk what to do.
  5. 2 points
    I WORKED IT OUT!!! I have the CM ML120 with only one fan connected but this will work if you are using two. I should've done some research because the advertising on the box said Aura Sync, and I would assume it was illegal to advertise such things if it weren't available. I followed all the instructions that was given in the manual, plug cables into AIO header and CPU header, plug the other pump cable into the controller, plug the fans into the splitter which plugs into the controller, then i had to power the bloody thing too and figured out why it didn't work. then with a little research, the thought process was I had to plug SOMETHING into the RGB header on the motherboard... but the question was what! then after a little bit of playing around with different cables (including the 4 pin cable) plugging in and out of the controller it donned on me.... I needed a splitter that connected the pump and fans, and plug that directly into the RGB header on the motherboard. and then Bobs your uncle. Aura sync works instantly!!! So just to reiterate what I have done. Coolermaster supply a 3 way splitter, which you plug the female plugs from the pump and fan(s) into using the Male-Male adapters. Then simply plug the single female end into the 3pin RGB port on your motherboard.
  6. 2 points
    you need to download the masterplus instead of the rgb software. ARGB BOX Firmware v1.0.0.1
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    Mantapp.. lanjutkan master...
  9. 1 point
    Keep it On Master!!!!!!!
  10. 1 point
    Thats weird. When my old controller broke they've sent me the old version again so probably it's got something to do with the new controller PCB layout.
  11. 1 point
    Bought this mouse recently and I love the feel of it, however I cannot install the software so that I can customize the mouse ad turn of the annoying lights or at least a less obnoxious setting. Please Help !!!!
  12. 1 point
    Eager to play Andromeda Mass Effect? Cooler Master will award 10 lucky winners with PC game codes and 2 peripherals on April 11th. Participate in the giveaway here
  13. 1 point
    Hi! we always leave a bit of room (around 1mm) for additional clearance so the MA410M will fit without issues in the MB530P
  14. 1 point
    I have an MSI b450 tomahawk and purchased a 3 fan kit of mf120r argb fans. Upon opening the fan kit, I noticed the connector from the kit for 4 fan headers (label says msi/asus/asrock connector) has a 2nd pin slot that is null (no opening), but my board has all 4 pins present on the board. This means it is unusable on the board. Is there another adapter or something in the kit I am missing?
  15. 1 point
    Are you using the correct sofware? There is the Cooler Master LED Controller software and there is the MasterPlus Beta Software. The LED Controller software has the mirage stuff on it and what you want to use. https://coolermaster.egnyte.com/dl/Z4xAkaxEXA
  16. 1 point
    Tell them u want all parts replaced. They sent it to me one by one so it took over a month :D.... It is not complicated but if u get ur faulty parts one by one like me u have to Always waste a lot of time in cable manament and stuff.
  17. 1 point
    Open a Ticket (took 2 days for me to get a answer). Had the same Problem u need a new top, front and a new pcb. Seems u got two old models. They changed a lot
  18. 1 point
    You can use the glass panel from C700P case: https://www.cmstore.eu/case/dual-curved-tempered-glass-side-panel-for-cosmos-c700p/. I've asked them in 2018 the same question and they said it would fit. If you need proof I can post a screenshot from my e-mail or you could contact them directly at: shop@coolermaster.eu .
  19. 1 point
    Hi Paul, These are available on our CM store EU 3,5: https://www.cmstore.eu/spare-parts/n300-n400-force-500-toolless-3-5-fasteners-sold-per-1/ 2,5 & 5,25: https://www.cmstore.eu/spare-parts/n300-n400-toolless-2-5-5-25-fasteners-sold-per-1/
  20. 1 point
    A very BIG THANK YOU for your great support, I've received three new fans for my cooler in just one week!!! I have already installed them on my system and everything is QUIET and COOL!!! Thank you very much!!!
  21. 1 point
    I still have the original paper manual so if you still need it I can scan it for you.
  22. 1 point
    Hello, not sure if you solved your issue or not, but I just went through similar issues with a new H500m and the MSI Gaming Pro Carbon Motherboard. I did eventually get the front fans to be connected in the Mystic Light software. The case should come with a 3-1 fan splitter already connected and that plugs into a normal fan header on the MB to run the fans. The two RGB cables from the fans get combined into the RGB controller. To get it to work with MSI Mystic Light, I connected the front panel reset switch to the controller, the micro-usb cable to a usb 2.0 header on the MB, the aRGB output cable to JRAINBOW on the MB, and the SATA power cable from my power supply. If that's all connected, open up Mystic Light and select JRAINBOW. Set it to Steady and pick a unique color that stands out. Now, use the reset button to cycle through the rgb controller pre-sets until you find the steady color you picked. Now you've selected the JRAINBOW channel and anything you set to it in ML will show on the front fans. Hope this helps ~Von
  23. 1 point
    Hello, same problem here I have 4 BROKEN xornet 2 mouses, all of thm have scroll wheel broken, unfortunaly i've bought mm 520 aswell, and it feels much cheaper and unnecessarily large (i've also removed the weight inside, cause it was too heavy), i've tried g102 but it's too long and not wide enough. Nothing i've found comes close to xornet, either they are much heavier or look like xornet but scaled in size which is not good for me. Funnily enough my hand is very large, but i only move my wrist, i'm really hoping they'll refresh it properly
  24. 1 point
    I was wondering if I could fix the terrible airflow without sacrificing too much of the looks of the MasterBox Lite 5, by replacing the front panel of the Lite 5 with the front panel of the MasterBox MB511. Would it fit without issues? Thanks!
  25. 1 point
    does anyone have the firmware they can upload all the links to cooler master dont work
  26. 1 point
    alot of idiots (like me) who are new to pc building bought this case forgetting to think about airflow. i just want to know if there are front panels that will fit my case with better airflow. thanks in advance
  27. 1 point
    so a ARGB controller will not work you need something like this http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cooling-rgb-accessories/rgb-led-controller/ its a rgb controller you need
  28. 1 point
    Update: The SATA power cable coming from the front panel looked bigger than normal to me and it didn't occur to me to attach it to the PSU via a SATA power supply cable. This cable is indeed the same that you use for a HDD. I simply connected this cable to the PSU and the power button light lit up. You then just simply take the 3x1 RGB splitter cable, hook it to all the fans and then there is one similar cable left coming from the front control panel. Attach the end of your 3x1 RGB splitter cable to this remaining cable and your fans should fully work. The fans spinning action is totally separate from the power required for the RGB. I feel like an idiot because I originally missed that SATA power supply cable and had no idea where it was supposed to go, but in the end I'm very happy with my purchase. This case looks awesome in person, especially now that it's finally working as it should. Lol : ) The directions that came with it really could be much better. Original post: I am having the same exact problem. I do not have a RGB header on my mobo, but was under the impression that I could still control the RGB fans by the button on the front panel. Not to mention, it says that an RGB controller is included, which I'm assuming is built in on the front panel because I did not receive a separate RGB controller. Having an RGB controller would mean that I should not need an RGB header..... just power to the RGB components....correct? Sorry I'm kind of a newbie.
  29. 1 point
    I, sadly, also have created an account just to say thank you. I was trying to figure out how the "FN" things worked, and I pressed 4X thinking it would make the colors move faster...
  30. 1 point
    Now Jan 5th 2019. No fans, no support! Guess Gold333 is correct, should buy from a respectable company.
  31. 1 point
    Just wondering if anyone has a mesh front for this case. When i take off the front panel temps drop about 5-10 degrees. I have the three fans up front, a 240 mlrgb aio push pull on the top ( top and middle fans). If no one has a front mesh cover, would it be better to just take the aio off and go air cooled for the cpu? Would that give me better air flow? I prefer staying with the AIO if i can get a front mesh cover. Thank you.
  32. 1 point
    Title. I just want to know if it the tower's height is too short for both the cooler and the ram sticks.
  33. 1 point
    So I just finished building my PC, and am working on setting everything up with asus aura. Everything is linked and all, it's just that the fans and pump aren't going to the colours I set them to. one fan (lets call it fan 1) and the pump go one colour while the other fan(lets call it fan 2) goes a completely different colour. if I set the aura to blue, fan 2 turns off, if I set it red, the pump and fan 1 turn pink and fan 2 goes green, and If I set it to green, fan 1 and pump go sort of a minty-green and fan 2 goes red. any colour in between and the pump and fan 1 goes a very muted colour near the requested colour and fan 2 goes to a seemingly unkoun colour. If anyone can help me that would be GREATLY APPRECIATED Thanks in advance for your time
  34. 1 point
    I bought a MasterPulse MH 320 headset. I have some problems, the microphone is sizzling and I do not know how to fix it
  35. 1 point
    in my opinion the controller should work with the fans. just make sure you get the right controller. there is RGB and Addressable RGB (mini one). get the RGB controller for your fans.
  36. 1 point
    Can you turn a cosmos C700p into a C700m ?
  37. 1 point
    TO THE ATTENTION OF THE COOLER MASTER's SOFTWARE ENGINEERS. The CM Trigger Z software (latest version 1.3.4) has serious problems with the "Keyboard Layout" configuration. I have read in this forum that the software set the keyboard layout upon the installed Windows language version. I found it very stupid (no pun intended) because I could have an English version of Windows installed (I work with foreign customers and I use the English language) but an Italian (layout) keyboard or I could have a German version of Windows installed and a French (layout) keyboard, etc. A better behavior would be if the software will set the keyboard layout based on the Windows 'default input method' chosen by the user (that's the Windows keyboard layout preferences). Besides this how could you haven't implemented a manual switch that let the user choose his keyboard layout? It's truly incredible that the software engineer that made the Trigger Z application had not done this. I have an international English Windows installed and I have the Trigger Z with the 105 Italian layout: let me explain how I can change the keyboard layout in the CM Trigger Z software, because it's always display the 104 English layout. Don't tell me that I've to install the Italian Windows version because this isn't a solution but a remedy to the poor planning and approximate state of the software you've created. And don't try to tell that this Keyboard is out support because is listed in the Cooler Master web site (http://www.coolermaster.com/peripheral/keyboards/triggerz/) as of today. In fact I have bought it (new-sealed) last week because I prefer this keyboard to the newer ones (MasterKeys Pro for example): the Trigger Z has 5 distinct macro keys on the left and a palm rest that the new keyboard doesn't have. I would know if through a custom "CMTriggerZ.ini" file a user could set the keyboard layout he owns or you could supply me with an 'exe' that always set the Italian keyboard layout (no matter in which language Windows is installed) P.S.: I have modded the 'exe' and the 'ini' file with only partial success (the software display the Italian layout but when you choose the keys near the 'enter' button it doesn't function correctly - 104 layout is different from 105 layout).
  38. 1 point
    Just released with link from coolermaster to purchase on newegg!? $139 seems like a great price. typo maybe?
  39. 1 point
    I'd like to know also. Especially now that the 2nd gen CPUs are released. Any ETA? I saw a twitter post from CM that said the goal was "October", but that's all I've heard. No updates or preorder...
  40. 1 point
    I had a problem with a cooler master psu i open a rma ticket but they rejected it without reason. It was my 2nd psu cooler master who stop to work like this i advise you never buy a cooler master psu...
  41. 1 point
    I purchased this today as it's listed on Asus own website that its Aura sync compatible. After slogging through the TERRIBLE manual (come on Coolermaster!), i found hours later despite numerous tries that no, it is not compatible with Aura. The Aura plugin is visible when you download the software from CM, but it's greyed out for me. EDIT: Figured it out and got it to sync with Asus Aura - the ML240 needs to have the CM software installed to enable Asus Aura (although the AURA & AURORA plugins are still unaccessible from the software.) I detached the controller and just used the 3in1 aRGB cable, plugged that into the aRGB of the Z370-F, opened both CM & Aura apps, and it synced.
  42. 1 point
    Just checking but from the looks you have a ASUS Z370-E motherboard? I have the same. A regular RGB header on your motherboard will not work with these fans. You need to connect it to the ARGB header which of you only have one so you will need a ARGB splitter cable to connect everything. (Again a regular RGB splitter will not work) I just returned my MasterFan Pro RGB fans as they make a :) of a rattling sound... And I'm also not the only one! I was now thinking of buying the regular MasterFan RGB fans or the new ARGB fans. Keep me updated if you get it to work with AURA! PS: I'm not related to Cooler Master but just trying to help.
  43. 1 point
    Seeing as no one has answered this I will. NO! it's not compatible with Aura. You cannot plug the ML240/120R fan or pump LEDs into the RGB header on an ASUS MB. The Aura compatible badge on the box is a scam to get you to buy it. How do I know? Well, I have been through two ML240R's. First ones LED's died within a week. Now the replacement controller box has died and I'm waiting for Coolermaster to answer my support ticket. I only bought this watercooler cause I thought it was compatible with my ASUS Aura M/B. BTW: I have 30 years of PC experience.
  44. 1 point
    Hey everyone, Just wanted to write up a review of the MasterMouse MM520 after having used it for a day. I've previously owned the CM Spawn and Xornet II so as soon as the MM520 launched, it was a no brainer for me to order it right away. I heard how some folks that are diehard fans of the Spawn/Xornet might not be so sure about the changes for the MM520, so I wanted to just provide my thoughts on it (as a diehard Spawn/Xornet fan myself.) Shape/Size: (1st Place: Spawn/Xornet II | 2nd Place: MM520) Obviously, the biggest change is the shape and size of the MM520. I took a picture with my phone of the Spawn, Xornet II and MM520, side-by-side to give you guys a rough comparison -- take a look below and see for yourself. As you can see, it's a little bit longer in the left/right mouse button area than the Spawn/Xornet. It took a little bit of getting used to coming from years of using the Spawn/Xornet but what I noticed is that I can pretty much hold it the same way as the Spawn/Xornet as I used to and it feels more or less the same. However, now for those of you with bigger hands and/or longer fingers, you'll have more space to choose where you want to rest your fingertips. Also, with the increase in length I find that depending on how I hold the MM520, the back of it touches my palm which I'm still getting used to. (I think it's also because the groove on the left-side of the mouse for the thumb is a little deeper). With the Spawn/Xornet, I primarily used Claw + Fingertip grip, so the back of the mouse hardly ever touched my palm (that was just my preference; it helped me to do insane flick shots ). The last thing related to the length is that the positioning of the scroll wheel is a little bit further than I'm used to. Previously, with the Spawn/Xornet, my finger would touch the top-half of the scroll wheel to turn it; now it touches the bottom-half. Overall, this is not too hard to get used to. I'd say the second point above about the MM520 touching my palm is the most noticeable change. Weight: (1st Place: Xornet II | 2nd Place: Spawn | 3rd Place: MM520*) According to the specs of all three mice, the weights are: (without the USB cable) http://www.coolermaster.com/peripheral/mice/spawn/ (90g) http://www.coolermaster.com/peripheral/mice/xornet-ii/ (80g) http://www.coolermaster.com/peripheral/mice/mastermouse-mm520/ (101g) I definitely noticed the increase in weight. It didn't affect my aim as much, but it was noticeable. For insanely fast flick shots, a lighter mouse will always be better (it's physics!) * Fortunately, I found a YouTube video that shows how we can remove the internal 12g weight. I think after I remove that, the weight will be perfect. Sensor: (1st Place: MM520 | 2nd Place: Xornet II | 3rd Place: Spawn) Awesome choice on the sensor CoolerMaster. It's just perfect. Don't think things can get any better than this. Texture and Feel: (1st Place: Spawn | 2nd Place Tie: Xornet II and MM520) To be honest, I kinda miss the all-rubberized feel of the Spawn. That was perfect in my opinion. However, with the MM520, I can see the benefits of the new material -- it's no-slip plastic and doesn't seem to attract sweat/oil. I guess I'll find out over time. To those of you who love the rubberized grip feel, rejoice in the fact that the MM520 at least has that on the right side of the mouse for your pinky. I feel like the left-side of the mouse would've benefited from having the same rubberized texture as well (like the Xornet II). Buttons/Scroll Wheel: (1st Place: MM520 | 2nd Place: Xornet II | 3rd Place: Spawn) The MM520 has larger left/right mouse buttons and side buttons. Same tactile feel as the Xornet II. The scroll wheel is better than the Spawn/Xornet II (better grip, smoother scrolling, slightly bigger.) The only minus is there's only one DPI button now (used for TactiX which can act like a SHIFT key for all the buttons). It would've been nice to have two DPI buttons like on the Spawn/Xornet II. Software: Better than the Xornet II/Spawn software for sure. However, the LED editing UI needs a bit of work. It's a little confusing when editing each LED zone. It'd be nice to have some tooltips/help guide to figure out what each setting means. It's also not clear if I can set the LED lights for each DPI setting/profile. I've somehow managed to configure it so that as I cycle between DPIs, the scroll wheel changes color to indicate the DPI setting, and after a few seconds, it goes to the LED settings in the software. I can't figure out how to change the different DPI indicator colors though; seems to be hard-coded as Red, Light Purple, Blue then Green. The only other gripe I have about the MM520 software is that it takes a few seconds to save the profile after I click Apply. But fortunately, I only have to setup my mouse once. TL;DR -- Should you get this or not? Yes! If you previously loved the Spawn/Xornet line of mice and have medium/large hands or long fingers, you'll have an easy time switching to the MM520. However, if you have small hands and felt that the Spawn/Xornet was the perfect size already, then the MM520 might not be for you. If you made it this far, thanks for reading the review and hope it helps! Suggestions to CoolerMaster: For newer versions of the MM520, here's some stuff I'd like to see in the future: 1) Shape/Size: Overall, I think a mouse that has a shape/size somewhere between the Spawn/Xornet II and the current MM520 would be perfect (at least for me ). However, I think if CoolerMaster did what Zowie did for their ZA line of mice by offering different sizes (e.g., ZA11 - Large Size, ZA12 - Medium Size, ZA13 - Small Size), they can appeal to essentially every Claw/Fingertip gamer. Please make it happen CoolerMaster -- you guys are on track to having the perfect claw/fingertip mouse! 2) Weight: I think that by offering different sizes with the same shape like mentioned above could potentially solve this. For newer versions of the MM520, maybe an easier way of adding/removing the weights would help. For now, I think just including replacement feet would be enough for us diehard fans 3) Texture: Bring back a rubberized version like the old Spawn! I'll pay extra for it. 4) Software: I'd really like to be able to customize the LEDs (all the zones) for each DPI setting and profile! Kinda like what was there for the Xornet II. I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong with the software right now (like if that functionality exists and I'm just dumb) or it's not supported. Either way, the UI could use some work.
  45. 1 point
    salutes I open this topic because in the forum I have not found anything on this product, I wanted to know if the COSMOS II CONTROL PANEL is compatible with the cosmos s, thanks
  46. 1 point
    Hi there, You can request your extra mouse feet with our support department over at https://account.coolermaster.com/ Nice to see you are such a fan of the Xornet/Spawn and now MM520 -family
  47. 1 point
    Have you tried the following? Reset:unlug the keyboard press FN+Right Alt replug the keyboard back in (while keeping FN+Right Alt pressed) Clear onboard memory:keep the keyboard plugged in to the PC Press FN+E for about 3 to 5 seconds Does the same happen when connected to another PC/Laptop? And are you using USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 ports?
  48. 1 point
    Received this bundle today and had the same input problem. After watching a few youtube reviews I came across one video where the girl mentioned the repeat rate, F9 and F10. Once I loaded up a game I confirmed that THAT was the problem. The 8x repeat rate messes with the directional inputs. Setting it back to the standard 1x (FN+F9) fixed it right there. I could even switch between the two to make sure that it was the culprit. I hope this helps anyone who is having this problem! =)
  49. 1 point
    Update: Using a surge protector took care of the issue. Thanks guys
  50. 1 point